Vicfreg

Got my dash pad installed. Debating whether to take it off to install the instrument cluster and clock panel. I really don't want to do that because I have my A/C ducts hooked up, and there is no easy way to reinstall them with the dash panels in. Any suggestions on the sequence to install the instrument panel and clock panel would be appreciated. I am thinking about dropping the steering column to get in the instrument panel.... Happy Holidays!!

Nice smooth, finish there, well done Ed, I sent you an email earlier this week. Did you get it?

420 at the crank for a 347 stroker is a pretty damn good result as far as I’m concerned.

Impressive results. Nice work on putting together that engine package, it all seems to work together well! Did they have any estimate of horsepower at the flywheel based on the measured rearwheel results? Your 6500 rev limit was right on based on your power curve. The dual plane intake isn’t much good above about 6,000 rpm anyway.

Nice results! Don't remember ....what kind of engine and fuel injection system you are running?

I had this issue on my '68. The root cause was that my clutch pedal support bushings were worn out to the point where the pivot shaft had worn into the metal. This was causing the brake pedal to move around. I had to replace the clutch pedal support with one from an automatic transmission car, and now the original mechanical switch works fine. On my '70, I had to install one of the Wilwood proportioning valves as I went with 4 wheel disc brakes. I have a pressure switch, works every time. I like this setup much better. Vic

Thanks.!

Hi Roger, sorry to hear about that. My guess is that the new owner isn't able to comply with some government requirements, and the current owner is wanting to switch you all over to subcontractors to avoid getting caught up with some contractual barriers that will prevent the sale. If they lay you off, they will have to offer you COBRA. In that case being a 1099 may not be a bad deal. This happened recently to my wife, so been through that, and in the end, she became an independent contractor, and it worked out quite well. Good Luck!

Yeah, I don’t have one either. I guess I could make one out of some insulating material. I have a couple old radiator hoses, I could cut a section out of that flatten it and screw it down. That’s probably what I’m gonna do.

Yep, Read the F...Manual.....

Making progress.... Doing final wiring/wirewrap/routing cleanup under the dash. Powered everything up, and it all seems to work. Will install my audio head unit next. Then, last item before the dash pad install is to make some adaptors so I can do a quick connect of my center dash A/C registers when I install the dash pad. I plan to make some flex tube pieces and use a shop vac adaptor to create an easy way to connect the Vintage Air center duct register to my flex ducts. I I will need to sneak those ducts past my in dash speakers. More to come on that....

Ahhhh...Good point. I do not have my carpet yet....

Well, got it going. The advice to put it in the off position and then cycle it worked. I started in the first fan speed position and then cycled it up and down. When I shut the car off then turned the ignition back on...success! The fan was not running. Funny what happens when you follow the instructions.....

Thanks. I will try the recalibration again considering this advice and me forgetting about the factory fan switch off position....

From eBay

Oh…right…. The lever shuts it off Means I need to reposition the sensor on that lever Thanks!

Powered up my Gen IV Vintage Air system. I am using the original factory controls with their add-on sensors. As soon as I turn my ignition switch to the “on” position, the Vintage Air blower comes on. I did the “calibration” process described in the Vintage Air instructions (grounding the grey wire) and it seemed to work as described. But, it did not change the key-on, blower- on situation. I called vintage air, and the technician asked me whether I had a two speed plus - off fan switch or three speed fan switch. My assumption is that if the fan switch is in the up position, then the blower should not run at all? Any suggestions, insights, lessons learned would be appreciated! Vic

Same “S” clip that is used on the plastic duct pieces where they mount to the registers

Brian, thanks!

It’s just hanging there right now

I have a new drivers front floor section, I’m trying to figure out where the proper location of the foot mounted highbeam switch is. A rough measurement would be fine, I don’t think it’s that critical

I may have to look at my coffee, can full of brackets to find those clips, but I doubt I’ll find them, I’ll probably use some kind of adhesive tape or foam to attach them

Oh wow, I’ve never seen those before. Mine didn’t come with clips, so I’ll have to improvise. I also found the proper brackets, for the lower dash So no worries there appreciate the diagrams and answers

Oh. Ok. I need to find the assembly drawing that shows that. Are the metal tabs on the dash or column then?

Well, the miracle finally happened, I got my dash installed. it actually wasn’t too bad, I had a few interferences with the duck Work and I had to move around and then it went right in. Also put on my new steering wheel it’s not bolted down yet, but it’s been in a box for a few years that I wanted to see how it looked on the car I found some brackets in my container that is full of miscellaneous brackets, and I thought these were the ones for the dash where it bolts to the body underneath the dash I’ve tried to flip them and install them a few ways, the dimensions of them just don’t seem to fit very well with the way my car is built, so any suggestions would be appreciated on those I also found this plastic piece that was brand new in my stash of stuff to install on the dash. It looks like it goes underneath the steering column and mats near the collar, but it does not seem to fit correctly. I suspect it to 1969 part?