Silver-Fox

Let's see the rims. What backspace are they to clear the wheel well edges ?

It's a Ford type pump and was working when I took it out, I have no idea if and when it was replaced. I replaced the Ford power steering with a Borgeson PS box and Saginaw GM style pump. I also hav e an extra slightly used Saginaw pump, which was replaced with a chrome one and CFV pulley. The Mustang has been in the family since 1970. My sister bought it while attending UCLA. It's now in Florida totally restomoded.

20 gal EFI tank - manufacturer is SPECTRA no fuel pump asking $75 20 Gal standard - manufacter unknow only used to test Mustang after restoration - $50 Also have: Stater for the 302 V8 - $25 Power steering Pump - $25 AOD trans pan - Chrome - $ 10 Engine stand with wheels - $ 50

I put in Viking 2 way adjustable on all 4 wheels and set them to zero for the fist 10 miles to break them in, now the ride is pretty good with them set at level 2 & 3. I have Viking coilovers up front with global west control arms with Shelby drop and 4 1/2 leaf mid eye in the rear. My experience in the past was I could never get single adjustable right to where I wanted them. I think QA or Viking are good choices.

Have you tested truck switch to ensure it works properly ? I'm interested, if not sold. Live in South West Florida...33991. Tom

Is your 351 stock or modified with a cam at all ? Which model FiTech did you get ? Is it controlling your advance as well ? I;m considering the same for my 302 (331) with a Edelbrock RPM cam and top end kit. Please give us all a follow up review after you've had it on a while. Tom

I'm considering the same FiTech for my 331 to replace my brand new 650 Edelbrock with Edelbrock RPM top end kit. Just install ed motor but have lots to do before it hits the street. My mechanic friend just put one on his GMC pickup and swears by it, said it was the simplest install he has ever had to replace a carb. He also bought this return fuel system to keep his mechanical pump.

Group Price and availability ??????

What's the group purchase deal ? I will be at interior install phase by Sept 19th

looking for passenger side dash bezel for clock or with out but with NO broken tabs. Tom

Your message box is full. I'm looking for passenger side dash bezel plain or with clock cutout.....don't need clock. Tom

Do you have matching Clock side ? Tom 239-283-2983

I'm still on board.....please let us know when ready

Those are NOT my Thumnail pics in my previous post....I don't know why they get included and I can't delete them.

Very Nice.....would like to see pics of the dash with the Dakota gauges.......I'm considering them for install now.

Next comes a few decisions: Do I put in AC or not.....it's Florida so i guess it's to do. Then is it Vintage Air or Classic Air ? Do I cut hole in dash and put in the double din Nav/Reciever/rear camera unit I want ? Any thoughts out there ?

Well had the body soda blasted and found a few more problems to replace. Both shock towers had fatigue stress cracks and rust. Both frame rails and rust holes just in front of the engine and there was a hole in the drivers side rear wheel well. So I'm replacing the both from engine bay sections as a whole unit towers, aprons and rails and a new radiator mount just to make the reassembly easier. Engine build is done, was broken in and put on the dino. Specs in 1st post....302 now 331....Edelbrock Top End Kit #2091 Highlites: RPM TQ HP 2500 337 161 3500 376 250 4000 373 284 4600 385 336 5000 368 351 5600 349 400 6100 313 365 shut it down at 6100 because it's still new

Personally I wouldn't waste my money on just roller tip rockers like the ones suggested above without some other engine modifications. True performance Roller Rocker have needle bearings at the fulcrum point on the stud as well as a roller at the tip. Most of the friction (loss) gain is at the fulcrum point not the tip. An upgraded cam for the 302 is not that expensive and with the addition of true roller rockers you should then see a performance kick....just my 2 cents.

My Mustang is currently on a 2 post lift in the body shop while we remove and replace a few rusted sections, The motor & tranny are out and when we removed the rear end this week it shifted the balance point a lot so we have safety stand under the fron section to keep it steady. I'm curious about the lift because I'm think of putting one in my 3 garage but the ceiling is only 10' 4" at the middle. I know you can some adjustment to set up. How high are the post ? What is the width between the post ? What is the width outside the post from one to the other ? Is there a cross bar at the top or did you mount to the ceiling ? Brand ? Electric ? PS: I hope you don't find the rust holes I found for what like a perfectly good car before I started removing stuff.

Thanks again....it makes it a littler clearer......so will that change where your going to place the uprights for your lift ? Interesting Ford spec weight information: 2 dr coupe = 2690 2 dr sportroof march 1 = 3175 lb Yours is the 2nd one I have seen at just over 3400 lbs They seem to gain weight just like people as they age :( I was hoping with my mods (Aluminum top end and water pump over 60lbs lost) and long tube headers on my base 2 dr coupe to get the weight under 2900 lbs.......we'll see when I'm done.

Questions: When you weigh the entire vehicle was your weight included in the number besides the full tank of gas ? What size gas tank ? Request: For us simple minded folks, how about the midpoint location specificly located on the vehicle, like how mnay inches forward or back from a door edge. We might not measure correctly from what point on bumper. Mustang seems heavier then origal specs. Thanks for the information.....good to know. Tom

where are you located.....I'm in FL & NJ

May I ask why the change / I'm building a 331 using an Edelbrock top end kit #2091, 392 at the wheels is pretty impressive what mods to the motor besides the stroke ?

AC dash ....33991

pics please...I have 69 coupe