nickjames138

Good call! I would love to see the spreadsheet! I'd like to see how much the entire build was for you! I could subtract the work that doesn't apply to me. Thanks man! Appreciate it!

This is so awesome! I would LOVE to coyote my car! I don't know if I'm being disrespectful or overstepping my boundaries, but what is this build going to cost? I know I want to do the Coyote, but in the meantime I was going to just do a top end kit/bottom end fix, EFI, AOD, shelby drop, control arms and bushings. Or should I just hold off till I'm ready to do an entire overhaul?

I've never see that pic that was attached to my last message nor did I attach it. What's up with that?

I don't. the gaskets weren't touched because they were in great shape

The shop is "Mustangs Etc" they gave me some Other outrageous quotes as well! Upon yelping they seem to be filthy con artists! I'd like to find a good shop I can become friends with that I can trust because I don't have a garage, lift, etc to do some of the things I'd like to do.

The shop is "Mustangs Etc" they gave me some Other outrageous quotes as well! Upon yelping they seem to be filthy con artists! I'd like to find a good shop I can become friends with that I can trust because I don't have a garage, lift, etc to do some of the things I'd like to do.

Well I think they're also wrong being that I've been hot rodding my car, daily driving, and long distance driving for over a year and I haven't had any severe overheating. The driver's side tab is in the front and passenger tab is in the back of the engine.

bitchin! I really want to do my suspension/steering next! I finally got my power windows with the 70 bolt in glass all installed today with ALL of the pieces! All of the right pieces.....took me 4 tries and each time a part was broken, stripped, missing, etc etc etc! And it's FINALLY DONE!!!!

Don didn't have them in stock! Found a place fairly close to me that has them! They have EVERY part in stock imaginable for Mustangs. Mustangs Etc.

So, I just stopped into a mustang shop that had about 5-8 1965-1973 mustangs in the shop being worked on (heaven I pressumed), and I'll need RPM and Barnett's advice on this one.... They heard my engine running and one of the guys said he heard an exhaust leak. After flash lighting around the block he notified me that my passenger side head gasket was on backwards. The driver's side tab was in the front and the pass side tab was in the back. He said it will stop the coolant from getting to the front of my block and will eventually burn up my rings. I called my buddy who is the one who cleaned my motor up before shipping it to me and he said it doesn't matter if the tab is in the back. If it was going to burn up it would've burned up already (it's been a year and a half) and the motor would be knocking. Which, RPM, that could've been a big problem with my stalling, but being that a front, new fuel pump fixed the issue...I DUNNO!!!!! I don't know what to believe now. Oh, also Barnett, while I got your attention...the same shop advised me to get a rack and pinion and coilover suspension and my car will drive like a new car (rough estimated out the door cost $10,000). The reason I ask you is because I've seen you post your ways of bettering the steering. As of now I have manual steering with 18" low profile Nitto's and cut springs in the front that lowered the stance and new, cheap shocks.

That I do not know. I didn't put the pump on the rear. All I knew is it wasn't working. So, I'm sure it's cheap AND old..and near the exhaust. I can check and send some pics if I get a chance.

I'm doing the 70 bolt in conversion on my 69 mach and Every single time I get my mechanic friend to take off work to help me I'm missing another part. This is the last part and I'm having the hardest time finding it. It's the "Regulator Pivot for Window Bracket" on http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/23274-1970.html But I need the bushings, nuts, washers that it also shows in these pictures. NOBODY SELLS THEM OR REPRODUCES THEM! Does anyone have these, know where I could get them, know an easy makeshift without having to fabricate one? I don't have a garage nor the tools to fabricate.

What do I get to get my tach back? The MSD tach adapter?

I think I was doing what you were listing. I did a drive test and it ran awesome! Even had more power off the line, but stupid me got too excited to drive and I forgot to bolt the distributor back down. So, I'll have to do it all over again. So when you say "reset the idle speed" are you talking on the Carburetor idle screw? Steps I took: First, I unplugged the vacuum hose from the Dist to the Carb and plugged the ports. Then, I timed it at 10 then increased 4 and it sounded great. I set the idle speed where it sounded good. Then, I reved it to what sounded like 2k RPM (I don't have a tach). Then, I increased the timing by 4 and it sounded great. I went back to idle and checked timing and it was up to about 17-18 Degrees, so I dropped it back to 13-14 and then went for a test drive still with the ports plugged and it seemed pretty great. No pinging whatsoever. Great pickup. No dieseling. Was this done correctly? I still have to take the front 2 plugs out and post pics. Will do that this weekend.

I tried doing that the other day! I don't know if I was doing it right, but I went through your instructions and here's what happened. I timed it in at 12 at idle. Then, without a tach because I mentioned I lost it after installing the coil, I gave it some throttle and timed it around 32. Then, I bolted the distributor down. It's idling low, but as I mentioned I think I just need to tune on the carb screws.

To wrap this up...because apparently I forgot to...I got a new fuel pump for the front. The rear fuel pump was a cheap pump that would heat up and seize up. Putting a fuel pump under the hood solved my stalling problem. Barnett, to answer your question...yes I fixed the floats. I really appreciate you explaining how to do that! My carb definitely needed it!

test drive went well! It's idling pretty low which i'll tune on the carb just a tad and I think I'm where I need to be! All the help is GREATLY appreciated! Next step I'm going to look into bettering the suspension! Not sure how far I'll be able to go with the wheels and tires I have.

I had a similar problem. It only stopped running once the car was hot, but it wouldn't turn back on until it cooled down. Turned out my fuel pump in the rear couldn't handle the heat, so I installed a fuel pump under the hood. Fixed my problem.

So, everything is working great! Car sounds great. It's idling around 12-14 somewhere in there. It's really hard to get precise when the marks are worn down. Also, I don't have a tach after switching to blaster coil, so I tried to just increase idle and it was jumping around 32 or so. Now I'll have to drive it when the rain let's down and see how it's responding. Oh and I rerouted the vacuum hose to the carburetor.

I know the leak is coming from the hose at the clamp, so I tightened the repositioned the clamp and that still didn't work.its a new hose, but it may have a slit in it, so I will replace it. But, would that cause the fuel filter to constantly be filled up with gas? Before it was always semi full.

Okay, so once I get this damn pointer on what is my first step. I found another issue which I'm not sure if it's just the fuel line, but I'm leaking gas right before the fuel pump. The line is constantly leaking and the fuel filter is always full even if I haven't ran the car in a few days. What's that all about?

So, would I have to get an MSD Ignition box to make the tach work or is that a waste of money. Also, would a tach adapter from MSD work. btw you are correct with the Ready To Run Dist. Also, I finally got my timing pointer in the mail today!!. So, we can get back to tuning!

So, I lost my tach after switching to an MSD ignition. (That's the first problem). I just went to switch all of my gauge lighting to LED none of the bulbs are working except for the turn signals. I got one gauge light working for a second and then it flickered out. The high beams light worked pretty well, but I changed the circuit board and I can't get it to work again. My clock light on the passenger side alsodoesnt work. My fuel and speedometer gauges and clock still work. Do I need to change the headlight switch? I keep hearing rheostat, but I don't know what or where that is?

I'm pretty sure I got mine from mustangsunlimited. Turned out exactly what I wanted and what you're talking about!

I tried a few different sites and they were all on backorder. I should have the pointer by the end of the month. FYI