nickjames138
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Everything posted by nickjames138
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MikeStang, I'm still waiting to hear what you think about your new setup. I just spoke with a fella from TCP and he did a great job at selling me on tcp r&p. I think I'm going to go tcp coilover kit, r&p, g-link rear and call it a day.
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So, I think Barnett and Rsanter will be pleased to know that I have dropped my ideas of welding in a new suspension. I still haven't made up my mind on how to improve my steering and suspension, but I know I want to switch to a front coilover kit, crossmember, sway bar, borgeson PS, new leafs in the rear etc etc. I would love to make my life alot easier and just go with one company to do the entire update. I spoke on the phone with Global West and really liked what the rep was explaining about their product. However, TCP has such an impact on the forums... So, is there a huge difference? It seems like they have the same setups just executed slightly different. My mind is still spinning on all of the components, but I do understand that when you cut out shock towers and weld in new components you're screwing up the entire geometry that the car is built on. Global west vs. TCP anyone?
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Oh my sweet dear lord!!!
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That's nasty!
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I've heard from numerous people NOT to cut a hole in my hood and I never asked WHY? I may need the clearance after I put this top end kit it plus it gets so hot under my hood. I have a boss hood scoop that's just for looks...why not make it functional? Thoughts?
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So I'm days away from rebuilding my engine. 351W I'm going to put a 400hp edelbrock top end kit in bored 30 and redo the bottom end. I bought a 650 Holley carb a little over half a year ago. Should I just use that or put a FiTech EFI/Holley EFI on this? I've heard great things about the Fitech and to buy it before Holley buys them out. I've heard that people have a hard time tuning on them at first. Has anyone had experience with this?
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I thought of going the Borgeson route with all updated arms, springs, etc but I think the feel I'm trying to achieve is the feel that SM69Mach and MikeStang described. A better road feel and the feeling like if maneuver at high speed I won't lose my shit! I want it to be more responsive. I drive on the Los Angeles freeway quite often. Bob, what don't you like about them? I'm wondering if it's all preference in how people like their car to feel. Do you like it to have that old car handling feel? Therefore changing to a rack will completely eliminate that old car feel? Or do you truly think the handling is easier/better with new factory components? If I do the Rack I'm going all in with front and read coilovers, sub frame connectors, antisway, etc etc So would this meant is should do by getting a "completely different suspension system that is designed for the rack" ?
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The shops both said it's a cheaper Rack. They both didn't have much to say other than it was a cheaper piece and the TCP is more durable. But if you've had yours for a while now and still love it maybe I should just go that route and save the $1200.
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Yes! I spoke with Shaun! Awesome dude! I heard from two different shops that they don't care for unisteer, but it's great to hear from someone who has the unisteer and loves it! How long have you had it? Any problems?
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Mikestang, what type of rack is in the M2? Once I started considering racks I've heard bad things about every rack except for tcp and nobody really knows Randall rack, but I've heard one guy say he loves his. I've heard unisteer and flaming river are cheap products. I think the way I see it is if I do the job with all updated tech I want to get it right the first time instead of cutting corners to save money. I don't want to buy a complete kit and find out that kit has a few parts that are cheap to cut costs (not saying it does just asking if it does?) I think the type of ride that you described (predictable, better road feel) is what I want, so I'm wondering if Barnett just prefers the old handling better which is really awesome and fun to drive! But on hot days in Los Angeles sometimes I just want an easy drive.
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So let me ask some questions because I've been doing my research before jumping into this project and everyone seems to have complete opposite opinions (such is life). First, to clarify, I don't have unlimited funds! I wanted to completely redo my suspension for 5k, but I want my car to be similar to the Detroit Speed cars that I see (Detroit speed is REALLY expensive!). I've been following every post you write stating that I can get my stock suspension to handle just as good as a new car if not better. I would love if I could save some money I just thought that in order for my car to be the ultimate Daily driver I would eventually need to switch to a Rack as well as all new suspension. a few questions: why do you hate Racks? is it a preference or do you truly believe it will drive/handle worse than factory? I've heard really great things about Borgeson, but then I've heard that with a borgeson I will still have play in the wheel as well as less responsive than a rack. I've also been told that every new car has a Rack so progressively that's the best option. Again, I'm just weighing my options before diving in and spending money to find out I didn't go the right route and have to double pay. Thanks for the help
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Hey guys, I want better handling in my car. I want it to handle like a newer car (some say you can't do it, others say you can get it better than a newer car). I started out with 5k in mind, but I just got a quote from TCP for $10,500. Now that's a complete suspension (Rack, Upper and lower, coilover, strut rods, antiroll, pumps, hoses etc for front, Subframe Connectors and G-bar coilover setup with antiroll in the rear). I definitely want the internals of my car to be brand new since I'm slowly transforming this car into a daily driver for decades to come. I'm just double checking my work to make sure this is the route I should go or are there components I should switch out from TCP to another brand? Also, I would love to have a lower cost, but I've heard that Unisteer is a cheap rack from a few different shops. I've also heard cons about Flaming River. Who has switched to a Rack? How do you feel about it? As of now I have a pretty stock car with a fairly new manual steering box, Willwood disks all around, 18" wheels and it's fun to drive. I'm just getting sick of manual and I'd like it to handle better around corners and be easier to drive.
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I just took all the suspension parts that I bought back to the store. I was talked into getting a Rack and Pinion. I've researched all the Racks out there and it seems as if TCP has the best. Then, I decided I might as well go all in. I want my car to handle the best it can handle on the streets and be really fun to drive. I'm considering just buying a complete front end suspension package from TCP. Are there any part that I should buy from a separate vendor or can I just get it all from TCP? I want this transition to be as seamless as possible. I don't want to have to double pay. I also want to get subframe connectors and get the rear suspension to match the front. If I have enough money left over I would love to delete the shock towers as well. I'm basically looking for a good shopping list if anyone has one that matches my needs which again are: daily driver that handles great on the freeway and is fun to drive. I want to keep the 18" wheels and Nitto Low Pros and keep the ride height the same as it is now. If anything a tad lower not higher. Thank you fellas
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1969_mach1 I think you're right. I've heard these tach adapters won't fix my problem. A lot of people with luck have noted that their tach was jumping all over the place. Mine is completely dead! So, redline is my only option?
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I switched to a Ready-To-Run Distributor and an electronic ignition Blaster coil and I lost my tach. Has anyone else had this problem? I read someone say that they sent their Tach to Redline and had it rewired and it works great. Also, I called MSD and they said hook the tach wire up to the Negative side of the coil. If no luck get a 10ohm resister took hook up to the negative then hook the tach wire up to the resister. Anyone go through this before and have a quick fix? or what's the proper fix?
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I'm highly considering a borgeson power steering box the entire kit is $860 I know I could install myself, but I don't have the workspace. I was quoted $250 labor. I've heard a success story on a Randall Rack and pinion for $1400, but I know labor will be a lot more. Which is the better option? It's my daily driver and the manual steering is starting to wear me down! I'd love for it to have tight steering, better cornering, etc because I'm still young and like to think I'm in Fast and Furious or transporter.
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What did you do to/for your Mustang today?
nickjames138 replied to 69_Mustang's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
What part did you use and where did you get them from? How are they holding out? I want to do my entire interior. These lights are so hot...if you tough them it's over! -
Scott Drakes Perch saddles were at the shop I got my parts from, so I bought them by default. Plus Barnett had a shopping list on another thread stating these were good saddles, so? Rsanter, obviously I know I won't get a feel as great as a mercedes, but I love the way my gf's Benz drives. It's tight steering. I also like the way the new Mustangs drive in sport mode! Really fun! I'd like it to handle like that. Getting rid of the 18's and low profiles isn't an option. I love the protouring look!
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So, quick question before my Main question. Am I being rude by interrupting Prayers1's forum? My apologies if I am Prayers1. So, I'm having a similar problem. My car doesn't lag too much when it's cold, but after a good drive and 100 degree weather I start getting an intense lag. Almost to the point where it feels like it's going to stall. I put a new holley 600 cfm 4barrel on a while ago and didn't have much trouble until I started messing with the timing and air/fuel. I got the timing down pretty well imo. However, I'm starting to get a temp reading of 210-220 degrees in this hot weather and my car usually stays right at 190. The major problem is the Lag from the start. Would you suggest increasing the accelerator pump squirter? I've noticed that if I floor it from a standstill it doesn't lag much, but if I just ease on the throttle from a standstill it has a decent hesitation. Thoughts?
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I already put the KYB shocks in and got it aligned. It rides a lot better! Today I bought new scott Drake perch saddles, front and rear Monte Carlo bar, new springs and spring insulators and I'm going to do the Shelby Drop and see how that feels then. What's better Rack and Pinion or Borgenson Power Steering box?
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Thanks for all the advice. My car actually handles pretty good compared to your stories. I have no problem when hitting the brakes. Only thing that really bothers me is the floating and swaying feeling when I take curves on the freeway. It handles them well, but I have that feeling that I may lose my car. Then, next two issues that I can live with but would rather not, is grooves pulling my car (there are a lot in Los Angeles) and manual steering. I've heard good and not the best things about borgeson ps. I've heard a rack could be a waste of money.
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This is an awesome thread! I'm looking to upgrade my suspension as well. I just bought my car a year ago and noticed I have a sway bar. The upper and lower looks fairly new (not sure what brand). My buddy cut the springs to lower it, but I have a new set of springs from Mustangs Unlimited. I also have new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. I have 18" Torque Thrust II's on low pro Nitto's. So, 3 major issues when I drive the grooves in the road pull my car really hard. When I'm on the freeway and I'm going around a corners it gets a bit dicey if you know what i mean. Last issue is I have manual steering and I've heard power steering boxes always leak. Oh and the front of my car squeaks really loud when I drive it. Which I'm sure is the bushings right? So, what should I buy? Should I just get new upper and lowers from Moog to make sure I have the best? What do I need to convert to power steering? I know I'll definitely need all new polyurethane bushings and a spring perch/saddle. I'll need to do the shelby drop. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help! I already replaced the alt and have a relay. The headlight switch is definitely bad. I didn't realize it is probably something that simple. I'll get on that! Thanks again!
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I bought new Windows and regulators for my 69 fastback and then decided to do the 70 conversion, so the windows are still glued to the tracks and tinted and the regulators are new. Make me an offer. Need to get rid of it all!
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So, my headlights are uber dim. On top of that when I hit the high beams they turn on all 4 lights, but start surging/blinking on for a second off for a second (repeat). When I take the high beams off it is just 2 dim headlights that don't shine any further than 10ft. So, I bought some LED headlights that are supposed to be 3-4x brighter and they are also dim. I'm guessing I'm not pulling enough power. I don't know how to fix that problem. New wiring harness? New alternator? All or none of the above?