Jump to content

nickjames138

Members
  • Content Count

    173
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by nickjames138


  1. 54 minutes ago, potato said:

    Digging up an old thread...

    Its about time to replace the gauges in my car.  Every time I look at it, it seems something else breaks.  Mine's a non-tach car.  Transmission is a T-5, which I believe should be compatible with their electronic speed sending unit.  My distributor is HEI with a terminal marked "tach".

    Did this thread ever arrive at a handy list of what wires plug in to which terminals on the dakota digital brain box?  And which terminals we don't use?  Spending that much for a dash, I would like to be able to get as much functionality out of it as possible, having it interface with as much of the factor stuff as I can.  For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?

     

    C81417B6-D787-44FF-B509-9DB3884D858E.jpeg

    ADA4026A-836B-4604-8F52-B90905E62503.jpeg


  2. 8 hours ago, BlueCoupe said:

    @nickjames138 which dash bezels did you use? They look like the deluxe ones but black instead of woodgrain? I really like the look.

    I actually took it to an upholster shop and had him wrap it. It’s like a padded leather. Super soft and durable. Turned out much nicer than I thought. 


  3. 8 hours ago, stangman69 said:

    Looks good.  What size are the gauges relative to the originals?  Diameter of speedo face new vs. old?

    Inching closer.  Shopping an AAW harness at the moment but gauges won't be far behind.  Leaning pretty strongly towards the VHX in black and white like yours.

    Hoping to drop a bunch of money here shortly and finish getting the big parts - composite leafs, wiring harness, gauges, headlight and tail light upgrades, hydraulic clutch system, mufflers, etc.  Been too long since I made any significant progress and the wife wants it driving by next October.

    It's an exact replacement. It took me 5 mins to remove the old gauges and install the new ones. It's a direct fit. Comes with everything you need. I liked New Vintage gauges look, but everyone said they're cheap and they don't fit exactly into the old cluster housing. Dakota Digital was hands down the best recommendation. The lights are gorgeous on it too! VHX in multi-colored was considered, but lets be honest the white and red is the best looking and how long will I mess with all the lights until I get tired of switching it and just leave it white and red. 


  4. haha Stangman I'll tear it all back apart and take pics JUST for you! I'm so bad at that! I just get excited and want to put it back together and enjoy, but I do want pics...standby. Just posted a video of it though. 

     

    36 minutes ago, 69Stanger408 said:

    Nick, I've yet to fire up the Holley, but when I did power up the Dakota (w/o Holley), I did not have lights for fuel or water temp, assume that is because the BIM will power that up? Also, did you tap the power and ground off the VHX module for the BIM?

    So, the water pump will come from the BIM (I suggest reading the instructions/setup/calibration that comes with the BIM FIRST then do the rest of the setup from the DD instructions). I have the holley Sniper, so it doesn't show fuel. I think one of the others does. So, I had to find the fuel snd wire from my old loom and plug it into FUEL SND...refer back to MIDLIFE'S dash cluster pin out sheet. There are 2 one with tach and one w/o. From what I've been told you don't need to hook up the ground (mine is grounded to my tank) but if it still doesn't work I would try that too. I didn't tap the power and ground from the BIM...I used the power and ground from the old pin connector. I found an old wire that wasn't being used and it just happened to be constant power (LUCKY!) then I used ground from pin connector and ac power from an old oil pressure gauge ( I know it's not the healthiest, but it's a wire that wrapped around a fuse in my fuse box...I've never had a problem with it, so if it aint broke/dont fix it) Hope that helps. I'll shoot some pics as soon as I can (dealing with a sick kid today :-(

     


  5. On 8/26/2019 at 7:30 PM, 69Stanger408 said:

    Nickjames, not because of the vintage air evaporator, it was the Digital Dakota gauge module that was attached to the front of the evaporator. Mounting it there allows easy access but prevents the actual glove box liner to be attached.

    So, I wired mine all up and it looks amazing! All the gauges work. I literally wired mine RIGHT where the old wires went into the circuit board plug was. So, the brain box sits right behind the gauges/dash. Works great, is easily accessible (just have to take off dash pad and gauge cluster) and I didn't have to butt connect a bunch of wires or find a bunch of matching color wires. 

     

    waiting for someone to say "WOAH You can't do that! That will cause...." Lets hope not. Looks really awesome!  


  6. Mines not in the horseshoe...it’s next to it. I would have to remove my dash to access it, but that’s only a few screws. 

    I’m pretty much done, but I can’t figure out the ADJ- and ADJ SND! I realized the blue w red stripe wire is for the headlights, but I have two blue/red wires going into my old pigtail that both a light up w my test light when I turn on the headlights. So I used one of them on the adj snd now it says use the black wire from the headlight switch for the adj- ......I can’t find that wire!


  7. 13 hours ago, 69Stanger408 said:

    Nickjames, not because of the vintage air evaporator, it was the Digital Dakota gauge module that was attached to the front of the evaporator. Mounting it there allows easy access but prevents the actual glove box liner to be attached.

    Oh gotcha, I see what you're saying. I was just going to mount mine directly behind the dash (where that crossbar is). Is there a reason I shouldn't? I mean my wiring is such a mess and I'm not about to get into cleaning it up at this point. 


  8. 2 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

    Hey Nick.....   not trying to hijack your thread!!   Thought the Vintage Air Pics would help.   Vic

    IMG_4177.jpg

    Dude! Not at all! Love how things start off and then it snowballs into more people finding help! We’re all here for the same thing! Appreciate the concern though. And amazing work! I’m 17 levels below your experience level, so *bow*


  9. Oh man! I could drink Scotch every night! ...wait did you say "CASE"? 

    Well, in that 'case' come wire it for me and you got yourself a deal! 

     

    I'm still hung up on a few slots. I found out "idiot light" is the check engine...when I was learning to drive the shift light was the "dumby light" so I was confused. 

    From the chart you sent me I'm not sure which wires go into these slots:

    -HIGH

    -DIM (Brake Lights)

    -ACC POWER

    -CONSTANT POWER

    -WARN

    The pins from the chart that I'm not understanding are:

    - Pin 2 - Dash Lights                   (not sure if I need these)

    - Pin 5 - Dash Lights 

    - Pin 6 - CVR Power

    - Pin 7 - Dual Brake Warning Switch

    - Pin 12 - Dual Brake Warning Switch

    - Pin 13 - Alt Lamp Comparative Signal (Not sure what that is?) 

     

    I have no idea where to plug all of those into? This is my first heavy wiring job and I love learning, so MUCH APPRECIATED! 

     

     

     

    IMG_4146.thumb.JPG.b40c7cc4e09fad5a39bc70479f7ef62b.JPG

    So DIM (+) says that's for brake lights...I'm not sure where to pull those from 

×
×
  • Create New...