Topless69GT

I have not been on the site for a while and saw the thread about a group purchase for the FiTech system. I was planning on getting this system (with or without a discount) but wanted to know if anyone has actually installed one yet? I think I am going with the in line fuel system since I don't have room under the hood for the fuel command center. I have a 351w with a/c and I don't see it fitting very well. My question is has anyone installed the command center in their 69 or is anyone running the in-line fuel pump setup? Any issues?

I took the car to a friend of mine that is a mechanic and he adjusted the timing and adjusted the carb and it went away. Power is much better now also.

I am looking a couple winter projects on my 69 GT Convertible with 351W. 1.) Coil over suspension and R&P steering 2.) Fuel injection on 351W - need to fix lifter clatter first 3.) Overdrive transmission I think I am going to tackle #1 and #2 this winter and the O/D trans over summer 2016. My question has anyone had experience with any of the bolt on fuel injection systems out there? The two I see out there are the Edelbrock system and the MSD Atomic system. I am open to suggestions about other products as well. I plan on using the stock air cleaner and want it to appear as close to stock when installed.

I finished my car this spring (well you are never really finished) and I have been working bugs out of the car and I am nearly there. The only issue I have left to tackle is the lifter noise on my 351W. The engine was totally rebuilt and I thought the noise (clattering) was timing related but it is not. I get it when ever I push on the gas. The car seems to run fine but I am growing tired of the noise. It is not a major amount of lifter noise but enough to irritate me. I have had many 289, 302 and 351's and never had one with lifter noise after rebuild.

I want to make sure that this is the company you are talking about out of Michigan. http://www.streetortrack.com/

I am looking to do a coil over suspension and a power rack and pinion upgrade this winter. I priced out the total control products kit and it is not cheap. I don't mind paying for a good product but I don't know anyone who has installed it. I want to hear what other people have installed and if they installed it themselves. Any opinions and advice is welcomed!

I am wondering if it is time for me to put in my spare underdash harness. I have been chasing electrical issues for quite sometime.

Looking at the old ignition plug I noticed when I unplugged it that the plastic plug around the yellow wire is melted. Now the question is why did that happen?

I posted a while back about my car not starting when it is warm. It seemed to get better and did not cause any issues for several weeks. But now it is doing it again and is now cutting off while I am going down the road. It is like the key was shut off. I replaced the ignition switch and it is still doing it. I think I am going to put a new ignition wiring pigtail since that and the coil are the only things I have not replaced. I actually have a ignition pigtail from another car but it is for a factory tach car and I have a converted wiring harness for a tach. The current converted harness in the car does not have the pink resistor wire but the pigtail I have does. Can I just use the pigtail and not hook up the pink wire? It appears to be the same in everyway but has the pink wire.

It was the headlight switch. I bought a new one and it solved the problem with the dash lights coming on when I hit the brake pedal.

Maybe the headlight switch is the issue? I will replace it while my dash is apart and let you know. I hope it is that.

Here is a photo of the 69 "J" hook block

I am trying to loosen the set screw to adjust my "J" hooks out so that the top will close properly since I replaced the top and all the rubber seals. They are hopelessly frozen and the one side is stripped. I have tried to drill the one side out and keep breaking drill bits. Does anyone have any ideas how to get them out or have the chrome part that the "J" hooks go into? It seems it might be easier to drive the pins out of that part and just get ones that are in better shape. All I see on the internet is a complete latch setup for a very salty price.

My speedometer was working fine and all of a sudden it starts making noise and jumps from zero to 90MPH and then pegs all the way past 120. I changed out the cable and the new one is doing the same thing. I looked at the gear on the one end and it looks fine. I don't think the speedometer is at fault. How long should the cable be with a 351W/FMX combo? I have two different lengths. One is barely long enough and one has room to spare but both are acting up.

Bought a new flexible circuit card and it fixed the dash issue with the exception of the dash light coming on when I press the brake. Only does that when the headlights are off. If the headlights are on then there is no change when the brake is pressed. That is the only electrical issue I am having and I think I can live with it. I am afraid if I change out the wiring harness I am asking for trouble.

I ended up with two converted harnesses. One from Pat White and the other from you. I am not sure which one I used. The other one is still in the box so it would be easy to figure out. Worst case scenario I can put the other one in and see if it fixes the problem. What is the best way to ground the circuit board?

The printed circuit board is over a year old but has only recently been installed in the car. Too late to return or exchange it.

It is a harness that was converted to tach/AC harness.

I am having two different issues with the wiring in my car. The first one is with the instrument cluster (tach dash). The dash lights on the left hand side of the cluster will not work including the left turn signal indicator but the turn signals are functioning on the outside of the car. I suspect it is a problem with the flexible circuit board or whatever it is called. It is a reproduction one. The second issue it that when I push the brake pedal my dash lights are coming on (all except the left side of the cluster -see problem above). Brake lights do work but the dash lights are coming on as well whenever the pedal is pushed. I am not sure if it is a brake light switch issue? Has anyone had these issues and knows how to fix them?

I emailed Battery Tender and they told me that the Jr. is really not adequate for most cars. It puts out 0.7 amps where the Tender Plus puts out 1.25 amps. They recommend the Plus since the Jr. can't keep up with the demand and the battery will eventually go dead. I went to Advanced Auto and bought their 1.5 amp version for $29 and have it hooked up to the 07 GT and bought another for the 69 GT.

Almost done. Off to the paint shop to get touched up and the GT stripe will go on after that. I opted to not put the rocker moldings back on because I don't like the molding and the stripe. It seems like there is too much going on. I am thinking about putting the chin spoiler on it. Thoughts?

Finally got it fixed. Both of the Auto Zone remanufactured starters were junk. I finally grabbed the old rusty looking one that I pulled off the car 5 years ago when I started the restoration. I put it on the car and it fired right up and the car started after it was warm. Both problems solved with my old crusty original starter being put on the car. I will pull it off next weekend and detail it so it looks nice. The parts being sold as remanufactured these days seem to be junk. I don't recall having these issues in the 80's and 90's with remanufactured parts.

Ignition switch is less than a year old as well. I am really frustrated with this car and I am starting to hate it. It seems to be a constant source of stress and issues.

I went out to start working on this problem today and the car will no longer start at all. Tried to jump start it and I swapped out the solenoid, had the starter and battery checked out at the auto parts store and they are good. It now clicks when you turn the key but does not turn the car over. I double checked the grounds and they are good. Changed out the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Still same deal just a click. Neutral safety switch is by-passed with a jumper wire so that should eliminate that as a potential problem.

Mater cylinder and power brake booster are both rebuilt units.