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Adam last won the day on October 8 2018

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  1. How much of a difference is there between the wiring from a 68 Mustang to a 68 Cougar?
  2. Thank you Midlife!! Just what I needed!!
  3. That's the direction I think I'm going to end up going. I own a couple dashes and pedal supports so I could always swap things out to make it work. If I ever sell the car the next owner can do what he or she wants with all the extra stuff.
  4. Been trying to find out what the wires for the ignition are for. Color wise that is. Like Yellow is for "-----------", red is for "--------". I can't find anything in any of my manuals listing this info. I DO NOT need the info for the turn signal etc...I'm in the process of installing a Painless Wiring harness and need to figure out what wires to hook up from the ignition harness on the column to the Painless harness I'm finding a lot of info like in this photo bu it doesn't tell me what the different colored wires go to.
  5. Been trying to bust my butt the past couple weeks to get this 70 going. Ordered parts, waited for parts, installed parts......... I got my roller clutch conversion kit today and installed it. Come to find out the bearing set up is thicker all around compared to the bushings. This prevented me from being able to slide the locking tab on the end of the clutch shaft. It was actually off by 2mm. So.......after messing with it I decided to drill out the end of the shaft and slide a cotter pin through it to lock it into place like the older clutch pedals had. Problem solved, now onto the next one. I ended up purchasing a Moderndriveline clutch kit and installed it onto the pedal. Turns out the clevis on the bracket actually hits the brake pedal bolt head. So I contacted Modern and talked to them about the situation and sent them some photos of the issue. I decided to put a washer between the bracket/clevis and the clutch pedal and it now clears the bolt head. Not sure if it will work but it appears to be fine......guess time will tell. Time for the install!!!!! Got everything bolted up and got super stoked to finally get everything done. Actually had my wife helping me as well!! I'll tell yeah right now, the aftermarket brake booster ad clutch cable kit combo is not fun to install. After about two hours everything is in. Then I decided to temporarily install the clutch cable to the clevis on the clutch pedal. Ooops, problem......Two years ago I sent the car to a shop that my buddy owned and he was supposed to put in the booster and clutch kit/bracket. He said he got everything done. NOPE!!!! Turned out whomever was working on the car drilled a small hole into the firewall for the clutch cable to go through instead of the 9/16" hole it needed. Didn't realize this until everything was already installed, by me, the second time. So......instead of pulling everything out again I decided to chance it and drilled a larger hole into the firewall through the opening on the bracket, even tho it says not to. Turned out the brake pedal support bracket is ever so slightly different that it blocks part of the original hole. So I drilled out the hole bigger and ground down part of the bracket. After all that I came inside and told my wife "I'm selling the Mustang". It just never seems to end with this thing My jerry rigged retainer. Also had to grind down part of the large washer. FYI, the Modern Drive line kit is actually a Scott Drake kit Clevis hitting/rubbing against the power disc brake pedal bolt. Prior to installing a thin washer between the pedal and bracket. Now I just need to finish up the Painless EFI harness and figure out the neutral safety switch/clutch switch fiasco and it should be running. Not driveable, but running.
  6. Trying to install a Painless Wiring EFI 60510 into my 70 Mustang. Everything is in but running into a bit of trouble and was wondering if any of you had this issue. The issue is this, since the EFI harness is for a 86-95 Mustang it has a provision for a clutch safety switch. Obviously the pedal assemblies are different from 70 to Fox Body and there is no "switch" for the 70 clutch pedal. According to the instructions: "If you are using the A9L ECM this wire connects to 1 side of your clutch safety switch.make sure the other side of the clutch switch is going to ground not power. If you are running power through the clutch switch you must use a relay to activate this wire to ground this is explained on page 19 of this manual" VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV Page 19 instructions, IF I had a clutch safety switch. Has anyone integrated some sort of safety switch in this kind of application?
  7. Hello, where abouts are you located? The address on your website says Indiana but for some reason I thought you were located in Minnesota.


    This is a pipe dream as of now but later on down the road I'd like to "spruce up" my late brothers 70 Fastback. I live in Illinois and can't really think of anyone that does quite the quality of work you folks do at the speed you do it.

  8. Taken from the Scott Drake instructions: STEP #4 Install wave washer onto new roller bushing prior to inserting and installing into clutch pedal assembly, then install large flat washer and then install external snap ring. Repeat procedures for opposite side. At this time it will be necessary for you to decide if you are going to weld the large outer flat washer to the clutch assembly or not. This is usually not necessary. Welding is optional and is only necessary if clutch hole is damaged due to excessive wear.
  9. Thanks but no thanks. I own a 70 and am a big guy but don't want to spent $800-$1200 for a tilt column. I noticed that Ididit makes a complete tilt column for a 1969 Mustang and was wondering if it could be compatible with a 70 if I were to use the 69 brackets and relocate the ignition.
  10. I bought the Modern Driveline kit My late brother has a bunch of bearings and locks for this style of swap but I didn't want to have t weld since I'm not a welder and these would also require some grinding on the bracket.
  11. Well that's nice to know. If I had known it was original I think I would have went and bought a aftermarket unit and saved this one for someone wanting a OEM unit. I have a couple of these mounts and figured this one was so clean it was probably aftermarket. Oops.
  12. Has anyone used the 1969 ididit column in a 70 Mustang before? I know the upper column mount brackets are different, maybe the brake/clutch pedal support, and the 69 has the key on the dash versus the 70 on the column. Also wondering if you can retain the stock rag joint or if you HAVE to buy the Ididit brand rag joint? My thought is this.....buy 1969 Ididit column but use the 69 factory parts to install it in my 70 and figure out the ignition part later. Push button ,under dash key, etc... I've been looking at aftermarket columns for a few days now and I'm noticing their isn't a lot on the aftermarket for a 70 direct replacement. Apologies for asking this question f it's been asked before. The search option on this page pulls up a ton of stuff with nothing associated to my question.
  13. Decided to do the bearing install for the clutch pedal but noticed a potential problem. A few YouTube videos I saw show the metal bushing being removed and a round hole left over. My bracket appears to be aftermarket and upon removing the original bushings I was greeted with a oval opening. I don't have the kit yet but from the looks of it I'm going to have to do some grinding?? Wish I would have known this prior to removing the bushings..... The original bushings that came out have two flat sides on either side.
  14. Long time no chat everyone, I was wondering if it is possible to convert a non tilt column to a tilt? Can you take a complete non tilt column from a 1970 Mustang and swap out internals to make it a tilt? I'm 6'3 300 pounds and am currently in the process of installing the column/ pedal support bracket/pedals as well as the column. For some reason The column I have is a NON tilt but has a tilt rag joint and lower shaft in it. Going to assume previous owner may have had the "parts" to try and convert one over???
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