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Adam last won the day on October 8 2018

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  1. I watched the video a few times before when I had my 70 Cougar and recently. Always good info from Don. One thing I noticed is the Bendix Booster is 7" as shown in the photo below. The CSRP kit is the same exact length when measured the same way. I only have the master cylinder that came with the kit to go off of measurement wise so I can't compare it to a original style. I'm kind of wondering if maybe the drivers side shock tower isn't slightly out of wack? As of now there is no shock tower braces on the car and haven't been since I got the car. At the same time tho it's never been driven without them. I bought a 9" booster from Pirate Jack not knowing my clutch cable bracket wouldn't fit a 9" and had to return it. I probably have 15 different pedals here to choose from so locating the pedal isn't an issue. I'm not looking forward to ripping everything out again and having to redo it if I go manual brakes. That's why I'm going to stick with what was in there before. All tho!!! I did notice another issue that came up :(. I'm not an expert but I don't think the shaft is supposed to be touching the outside tube in the second pic? I guess that will be another topic I'll have to post about after I get the column sent out to be rebuilt. Story of my life.
  2. I suck at math so all that scientific stuff just goes over my head. I'm just going to grind the heck out of my power brake master cylinder so it doesn't rub on the shock tower and throw everything back in. I was talking to my 76 year old father about it the other day and out of all his years of being alive he's only ever replaced a master cylinder once. In my 40 years of being alive I've never replaced one. I can't actually say as tho I've ever heard of anyone replacing one on their vehicle to be honest, old or new. I'm looking to put all this BS behind me now and keep on chugging along with the original set up. I think it will be easier to drive the car with power brakes considering it's a 5 speed with manual steering. Should make things interesting When I win the lottery I'll let someone else turn the wrenches on the thing and upgrade everything. Wishful thinking......
  3. I understand the difference in manual and power brake pedals. What I'm wondering tho is if I ran a master cylinder that is not a stock stock unit can I retain the power pedal? Or does it not matter either way? I've been reading about different bore sizes and didn't know if bore size would make a difference between which pedal to use. I've been reading people using late model Ford masters and some using the Granada masters. I was wondering if there was a master I could run that would not require me to remove the power brake pedal. I'm not keeping this car stock so appearance isn't an issue. I understand also that running a late medal master would require me to run a residual pressure valve to both front and rear lines.
  4. I currently have a brand new power disc brake pedal installed in the 70. I just woke up so I may not be all here just yet but from I'm reading I CAN leave my power disc brake pedal installed and run JUST a master with no booster correct? How do I find the best booster bore diameter for use with the power disc brake pedal? I have seen people use the Granada master cylinder as well as the newer style with the plastic tank. It seems a lot of people like the 1" bore for JUST the manual master cylinder only. I am also noticing that people like the Granada set up because it has the locking push rod in place so it won't fall out of the MC like it might on a plastic tank MC. Another issue I might have here is the fact that I have no power steering and a 5 speed in the car. With all that "portable gym" muscle I'll be building up maybe I need to stick with power brakes? I haven't driven this car in the 5 years I've owned it and as of right now the brakes are the one thing holding me back from making it driveable or at least "m,moveable".
  5. It's all good. I didn't want people thinking I was "that guy" flooding the page with the same post over and over lol.
  6. Is there a difference in depth between a Midland and a Bendix brake booster? Also, I would like to know why you have to switch out brake pedals between power and manual? Isn't the rod connected to the brake pedal that gets pushed into the booster or master cylinder in the same position for either one? Does one offer more leverage than another? "EDIT" ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Found my answer. But now a new question. Would it make a difference if I were going to run a newer Ford style master with the plastic tank on top? Or is it still best to swap out the power brake pedal for a non power brake pedal? Right now I have a power disc brake pedal installed in the car. If I bought a adjustable push rod do I really need to swap out the power brake pedal if I switch to a manual master cylinder only?
  7. I also want to add. I did post another thread about the CSRP kit and this one was or less a rant post. It got moved to the tech section those so now there's two posts about the same problem lol. That was not my intentions to have two posts about the same thing.
  8. I inherited the car from my late brother 5 years ago. When I got it the car had manual brakes on it. He had this CSRP kit new in the box so I decided to install it and all new pedals and pedal bracket. The CSRP kit makes the master cylinder hit the shock tower and it rubs. I physically can not remove the master, even to save my life. So I took it out and bought another booster that was 9". It would clear the shock tower fine but my Modern Driveline clutch cable bracket that bolts behind the booster no longer would clear the 9" booster so I sent it back. Now I've been debating to use a modern style plastic master cylinder with my disc/drum brakes and convert it to manual brakes. BUT!!! After seeing Brian's photo and his measurement I'm thinking this CSRP kit is a POS and that is what my problem is.
  9. I measured mine the best I could the same way and have 14 1/2" from firewall to the end of the master cylinder. Yours looks to be maybe 13 1/2" long???
  10. Would it be possible to have someone take a piece of string and run it from the firewall where their booster hits the firewall and run it to the middle of the master cylinder? I'm curious to see if the CSRP kit is actually shorter than a stock unit. I ran string and came up with 17" the way I did it in the photo. I know it isn't a correct way of doing it but I'm curious. I may have to end up switching to a good manual master cylinder. If that's the case I'm going to need even more help :(
  11. Has anyone tried a modern master cylinder on a 70 brake booster? I've been reading online of people using different model year MC's on their older Mustangs. Some say they run just the MC and some use a booster. On Mustang Steve's website he sells one that reads " Use only with Disc/Disc applications 1.0″ bore 1″ rod engagement depth (Same as 2000 Mustang V6 original) " I'm curious as to why it only works with a disc/disc setup and not a disc/drum set up? What kind of brake pedal do you need if you want to run just the master without a booster? Pros and cons? I have this style MC here at my house and am curious about trying it out and seeing if it will help with my clearance issue I'm having. I attatched a few photos from other people that posted what they were using.
  12. I don't even know where to begin.......I'm just so frustrated and so mad right now. I have this CSRP rake booster kit and it just doesn't want to fit correctly. I had it bolted in and noticed after I had the car towed to a mechanic the master cylinder was rubbing against the shock tower. So I decided to pull everything out, interior and dash is still out of car, and replace it with a thinner booster. Got the new booster today, Pirate Jack unit off of ebay, and was finally excited to be done with the rubbing issue. Heck, I even ground down the master that came with the CSRP kit and it still can't be removed by itself. Any way. I start looking everything over and can't wait to install the thing in the car. I mock it up but noticed I was shorted the template to modify the firewall......not so excited anymore. So after a phone call I was sent the template via email which doesn't do any good if I don't know if it will print to scale or not. Then I head out to the garage and start touching my shiny new parts and then it dawns on me...I totally forgot about my Modern Driveline T5 cable bracket!!!! So I slide the MD bracket over the studs on the back of the booster and................................it doesn't fit. The new booster is a 9" unit and the bracket where the cable attaches isn't tall enough to clear the booster. Then I thought "maybe I can make that one section a bit longer to clear??" Nope. It hits the bottom of the cowl almost as is so making it longer would 100 percent not work. So now here I am with no brake booster or brake system that I am happy with. The Mustang doesn't appear to have ever been wrecked so I'm not sure why the master hits the shock tower. I have had this car for 5 years and in the time I have managed to install a Painless Wiring system on the 5.0, which still doesn't run right, installed the lower dash frame and pedal assembly, and the steering column which I need to now pull back out to send it in to be rebuilt. I just can not win with this car. It's almost as if a higher power is sending me signals to get rid of the thing and move on with my life. End rant.
  13. UPDATE: Turns out all the guy did was move spark plug wires around??? I just checked again and ignored the numbers on the plug wires and it's witted up how it's supposed to be. Looks like it will be going back to the mechanic to fix it or it will be going somewhere else.
  14. Yes it is a roller motor 87-93 I believe?? It came out of a fox body Mustang which I want to say was a 89.
  15. How well do your export braces fit around it? I have a triangular style one and I have the stock type that also uses a bar that mounts from shock tower to shock tower. I bought a cheap $40 kit off ebay to try out for the time being. I think the Cobra intake might have a little longer "snout" on it than the stock intake so I almost need a 90 degree elbow at the throttle body.
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