Mkeenan

I'm finishing up rear brake job and brake line install. Tomorrow on to master cylinder setup and hopefully brake bleeding with a test drive.

The booster is from the previous owner. Judging from the pictures I have a midland setup and I am missing the whiteish plastic piece. When I bought the new master cylinder I just asked for a 1969 mustang mc, is there going to be a problem using the one I bought. They never asked me for a brake "name". The old mc and new one look identical. When I bought the car its brakes were non excistant, enough to get the car home, slowly. I started cheap first, I tired to bled the brake... Nothing no fluid. So I hooked up my vacuum pump, still nothing. When I tried to unhook the brake lines that's when I started to brake stuff. Long story short the brake lines were plugged at the distribution block, the mc was shot, the rear cylinders looked like they haven't seen fluid or worked in years and while trying to take stuff apart I pretty much rounded off or broke everything. Also where do you get this tool you speak of, I tried using my caliper but it doesn't fit to get the pushrod length.

So I got the new brake lines and distribution block installed. When I tried to install the new mc it won't go all the way on without compressing. The old mc had some sort of spacer that looks like it doesn't belong. Here are some pictures of the fitment, spacer and push rod. I'm sure what is wrong, any ideas

Thanks guys, RPM those are just the pictures I need. I will definitely have to buy some of those manuals. I have a chiltons and the service manuals but the don't go into much detail. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago and I'm trying to get the safety stuff fixed so I can drive it.

So I pulled the driver door panel off to see why the courtesy lights don't work and find out where my remote mirror thingamajig (for a lack of a better word) went. So the courtesy lights were fairly easy, the rubber grommet fell out of its hole and the bulb broke. I pulled the speaker to get a better view of everything and I can't figure out how to route the wiring that is in there. The wiring is running through a plastic S piece but I'm at a loss on where it goes so the window doesn't crush it. I found the remote mirror thingamajig hanging in there, thankfully it still works. Where does it go so the window doesn't rip it out? Also there seems to be some gray goo between the door panel and the metal, at first I cringed thinking JB weld but it is still soft and kinda tacky, any ideas. Ive searched high and low for pictures but I haven't had any luck Thanks Keenan

sorry had to pick my tongue up off the floor. Beautiful car, keep us updated

Oh I know all about that. I got a few atvs that turned into race quads. I had a 99 mustang gt that had a bad intake manifold gasket, that little project turned into pulling the motor with a full engine rebuild. Cams, stroker kit, blower and nitrous. The wife was not pleased!

Thanks guys. Well it looks like I need new brake lines. 2 of them twisted the tube and broke when I was removing them from the dist block. 2 of the flare nuts won't come out of the dist block. Oh well you gotta pay to play I guess. I think it was a lack of maintence, when I sucked out the master cylinder there was a lot of dirt and dust particles at the bottom. The fluid was pretty bad as well.

So I bought my car last week and the only major problem is the brakes are horrible at best. Initially they start to grab but after 1/4 brake pedal they don't grab any more. I tried to bleed the brakes but I can't pull any fluid through the bleeders with my vacuum pump, so I went old school and used a bottle. I still get nothing. I pulled the master cylinder then tried to pull and ouch though the brake lines. Nothing, so I started to pull the distribution block and twisted the brake lines. My question is where is the best place to by new brake lines and a distribution block? I want pre bent brake lines but no one around me carries them. Any recommendations would be great. Thanks Keenan

So I think I got it fixed. I pulled the starter and inspected the flex plate I couldn't find any spots where the teeth were worn or missing. I did however notice that the shaft bearing on the starter was in worse condition then I thought. So just out of curiosity I put the starter in a vice and hooked up a battery charger to it. When power is applied the starter gear is not fully sliding out and there is a lot of unusual vibration. Went down and bought a new starter, put it in and it fired right up. I drove it around for a while shutting it off then starting it back up. It hasn't done it since.

Thanks I'll have to see if stopping it in gear helps.

Hey, So I bought a 69 351 2v with the fmx, when I test drove and the day I bought it, it started great. Now two days later when I turn the key it sounds like it's grinding a little and not turning the motor over. I can put it in gear and roll it 15 feet then try and start it and it usually starts with no problems. I thought maybe a flat spot on the flex plate but it has done it 6 or 7 times in a row now. I pulled the starter and everything looks normal but I'm not sure. All my connection are good the battery is good, the starter was tight. I read a few things about the difference between auto and manual transmissions the only numbers I can find on it are DOOF-11131A. And is normal to have what looks like someone used a grinder on the end of the shaft near the bearing. New to old school stuff but not new to turning a wrench. Thanks Keenan