ray1970

In 1977 in my in my neck of the woods you could pick up a nice used B302 for about 1000.00-1500.00$ My farther and myself picked up 5 different Shelbys for 2000.00 or less at that time.. 67-350 1500.00$ (2)68 350 covert )2000.00 and one for 400.00$....... 68-500 KR 1600.00$ 69-500 1900.00$ Miss those days!!!

Mine was taped to the wiring under the dash.

I have done all the above mods over the last 30 years but mine was a rust bucket and flexed a lot. The sub-frame connters i found the biggest bang for the buck.(Tin mans) There all worth doing if you have the time.

if you are using a return spring on the throttle body.. Take it off and try it... life will be better.. Fitech is one to one on the throttle plates unlike holly that is progressive. that alone takes a little getting use too.

Mite be over kill but I have three tachs in my car.

Any updates??? or is this at a dead stall??

P1 I am not shore what your looking at for kits at this time but Tmyer is offering a center pin setup that can be had from std to .060 for 2200.00...the way i see it you will be more like 2800.00 after ad ons.. I dont know that offset pins are or have ever been a real problem on the street but centering the rod on piston pins sound like a very good idea in the long run..

Sounds like a good reason to me.. I believed most shops went .030 because there was little chance of it not cleaning at that amount.. Know one wants to return pistons and then re-bore the motor because cil.NO.8 did not make it.. I remember somervell rebuilt ford flat heads with .030-.040-.060 pistons all in the same motor and the crank journals being different under sizes.. Talk about hack and whack..

Think about it... they only make hood decals that say 408 but none that say 405-406... Its a mind set and its not going to change over night..Never know they could be right..

I dont think it maters what shop you go to there going to do .030 that is just the way it is... Go with it or come up with a good argument why not....with the shop that is..

I am implying that i to have fallen into the you must bore it .030 if you are going bore a car motor and i know better. Life has always been just like dealing with the internet beleave what you want but it dosent make it right.. You are right on the boring thing....Implying nothing towards you..

Wives`tales and mind set can be very hard to change if not impossible.. I deal with it daily. On some of the simplest things...My buddy told me ----------..(Now its the truth) I ask them if he knows so much why are you here? As with many I have fallen into the trap but not so much anymore.....

I think with most people including myself have been trained to go .030 need it or not on a car block. Which makes no sense for me.. I do a lot of power sports motors and never bore more than needed.. But I do it anyway on my cars....Maybe were looking for the most CID and not thinking if something went wrong.. When something go's wrong on a car motor it is normally way more than just boring it .010 over to fix it.

Its like the the yellow brick road........Your on your way.. My I ask why not use the old block? Mine had 2000mi on it before before i swapped the insides and it worked out just fine as long as you have not over heated it i dont see a problem..... Dont get me wrong all new is nice to have on the mind..

Having a 4 speed car and more than one 351C in front of it I have found the larger displacement far more forgiving.. Maybe I have got better at tuning or camshaft choice is hard to say. Overall it has been less problematic.. What I do know is I dont open the hood up like I use to.. I like that..... This my not be normal....Must be over 21 to read this...Your mileage my very...not intended for are younger viewing crowd...... Francisco Franco is still dead....Larry the lobster still lives!

I had a fresh 4 bolt .030 spare block for over 10 years than after I LOST a washer down the intake it came in real handy. It was ugly!!!!

So P1 are you using the current block or pulling out the spare? using the old one would save a lot of time and money. Starting fresh would leave you with a good spare .

I have found 351C to be as street-able as any until you try to pull big HP numbers than things get a little tricky. Had one with a RV cam and small carb. that would pull 3rd gear starts without effort but would only rev to 4700 Good for the wife and children. I think P1 has a little more Vulcan mind melting before he knows where he is going with this.

If your making 500 or 525 unless you are racing you will never be able to tell on the street..

My car was born with a 351W-2V and in the late 70s there was very little in performance parts available that really worked and I had no idea what i was doing and no money.. The 351C was my way out of that.. you could pick up a 4-V motor for 50.00-100.00$ from some Saturday night crash. With the shorty headers i dont see were you can lower the motor without some big time grinding or denting. I am good with milling an intake if needed..

The shaker has always been a big problem for me when choosing intakes and heads. I can be a bit stubborn about somethings and one is keeping the shaker.. The car was not born with it... I just really like the look.....Sitting at a stop light watching it shake. For this I have left some HP on the table as it would be. I have a fan off my old 351W in the back room if you need one..

The header on the LH side is realy not that tight.. Compared to my wife and the check book.

I have wood screws holding mine on. The reproductions were so BAD that I reused my old ones till something better comes along. Maybe there has by now??

For most of the time I have had my car it was a death trap over 100MPH Now that i have most of that sorted I dont care to go 100+ on the street.. Like it or not you do get older... Never did think the rear spoiler did much if anything. Front spoiler my have helped a little with some ground affects. Lowering the car was the best thing i remember doing..

An FE is more like a motor on steroids. I remember them well.....