Mach1 Driver

I wouldn't try it unless you have a Zray crossmember specifically designed to lift from (he's a well known member on VMF). The problem is slipping off the member and knocking a hole in something like your oil pan :(

Bugger me. It's one thing after another. Refitted the driveshaft and test dive. A definite improvement, but still some vibration.
Back on the stands and ran it again, with and without wheels as suggested above. Definitely less vibration without the wheels. I've taken the axles to a shop and they are both bent. Surely this is the last possible thing. I'll report back once they're straightened and refitted. 

Midlife is the guy to ask about the OEM harnesses, and I'm sure he will be around shortly. Unfortunately you are changing to AAW, but he would know how it worked on the OEM system, and that will help. The 69 does not have a key buzzer, but in 70 they started to get serious about how ridiculously easy was was to steal one of these cars (literally less than 60 seconds- and I can show you the video). They moved the key to the column, incorporating a trans lock and apparently added the key buzzer. Since my 69 doesn't have it I wasn't even aware of its existence, but since its a brother car I will follow this with some interest. Good luck ;)

Yes, the white wire I have connected to the cigarette lighter. Push it in, grounded. Sneaky, right? Except now the whole world knows....
I am using all MSD ignition; billet distributor, 6AL CDi box all hooked up to the Sniper. Effortless, never had an issue.

Following the factory wiring schematic, the buzzer receives power from the driver side door jamb switches' red wire (3rd Wire) #158 when the door is opened, and ground from the ignition key (#159) when the key is inserted. Both events are needed to trigger the buzzer. The red wire also activates the convenience group seatback release actuators if you have that option for both seats. Wire #640 provides fused 12v when the the car is running.

Kill Switches and Protecting your Car
It seems that everyone has their own opinion or philosophy about protecting their car…and you know what they say about opinions, but here is mine. Some people only insure their car and don’t even lock it, insisting that an accomplished thief will steal it if they want it. To me, that says they have no personal investment in the car- no blood, sweat, or pride of ownership. Mine is part of the family, a very old friend, and it’s MY CAR, not theirs for the taking. So here are the steps I have taken.
I believe you must have a layered approach, with as many layers as you can apply. Slow the thieves down and make it as difficult as possible. In this case, I believe that paranoia can be your friend.
1.    Insurance: today's thieves could roll up with a car hauler and a GPS jammer. Unless you have your Mark 1000 Visual Acuity Devices trained on it (your eyeballs), your car will be gone. But most thieves aren’t that accomplished or prepared, and don’t need to be- it’s just too easy to steal a classic Mustang. So insure it and keep it in sight as much as possible when it is out of your garage.
2.    Where you take it: don’t take it to the mall, theatre, supermarket, or other long term parking place. They only need seconds. When on a road trip, one of our members will take his car to the local police department and ask them to lock it in their secured parking overnight. He claims he has never been turned away as long as he offered them a ride.
3.    Lock the hood: everything they need to steal the car is under the hood, so protect it. There is way too much mischief they can get into under there. I use a 76 Ford F350 truck hood latch. It has a cable going inside to a handle with a keyed lock. You also need a “helper spring” mounted to the hood. This pushes the hood up and away from the latch so the latch doesn’t re-engage as soon as you release the pull handle. Mid 70s Ford truck latches will bolt right into a 69-70 Mustang and the same vehicle also has the helper spring. All I had to modify was the secondary safety release arm so it was easier to access.
4.    Lock the doors: this is so obvious that I almost didn’t mention it. If you don’t give them an open invitation, they may move on. It’s just basic common sense.
5.    Alarm: a noise maker is good- I like them. Even if other people don’t pay attention, you will. They can have vibration, and glass sensors, door, hood and trunk switches (remember to lock the hood anyway), and they can even call you if they sense an alarm or set off a GPS tracker. It’s all good stuff and part of the layering process. Where they fall short is how they attempt to actually prevent the car from running, and that will require a technical discussion on KILL SWITCHES. On the other hand, a system like LoJack is good (and expensive), but it doesn’t try to stop the theft, it just shows the cops where it is once you notify them it has been taken.
6.    How cars are stolen: the method most often used is a jumper wire and a screwdriver. This is so ridiculously easy that you won’t believe it, and it literally only requires seconds. Here’s what they do:
(1)  Lift the hood (that’s why you have to lock it).
(2)  Put a jumper wire from the battery positive to the coil positive. This supplies power directly to your ignition system, and bypasses everything, including aftermarket alarms.
(3)  Use a screwdriver to short from the front solenoid terminal to the “S” terminal. This cranks the engine to start it, and they are gone.
Seeing is believing, so here is a link to an 8-1/2 minute video, where he shows how to jack a 60s era car. It’s not a Mustang, but it has the SAME features. If anything, a Mustang is easier to steal because the coil and solenoid are up front. If you pay attention around 4:15, he talks about Fords. He’s a little long winded, but I find him entertaining, and everything he says is unfortunately accurate. As you’ll see, it takes him about 58 seconds to open the locked door, then the hood, start the engine and close the hood- all while explaining it and not rushing the process. PLEASE WATCH THIS
Below is a schematic (not a wire diagram) that shows why this is so simple and how it works. This is the ignition system for a classic Mustang:

The jumper wire is #2, which connects the battery directly to the coil and bypasses everything else (ignition switch, alarm, whatever). The screwdriver is #3, which connects the battery to the solenoid “S” or coil terminal. This turns the solenoid on and the engine cranks for as long as the screwdriver is there. And away they go.
7.    KILL SWITCHES: this is a kill switch used on a car with points. It is just a simple on-off toggle switch with one side connected to the chassis and the other side connected to the wire going between the coil and the points.

Don’t let this description throw you – this is just how the physical laws in our little corner of the universe work: The points have to open and close to make the magnetic field of the coil build and collapse to make a high voltage spark. With the kill switch closed the coil will stay on, but the field can’t collapse, so there is no transformer action in this DC circuit, so there is NO spark.
 8.    Kill Switches for other ignition systems: here are a few other popular ignition systems and how to disable them.
 This would work for a Pertronix 1 as well. When I showed the example in #6 above to Pertronix, they were sure it would disable the car, but thought it may also damage the Pertronix module. They offered this solution instead:

ANOTHER...

9.    Fuel kill switches: there’s no magic here, just a switch to open the circuit to a pump or fuel solenoid.

10. The Problem with Kill Switches is simple- where to hide the switch? If it could be hidden in a place where it’s not seen or found, but can still be activated, then that would make it very difficult to defeat. That can be done using a magnetic reed switch. The reed can be hidden behind the plastic of the dash or console, or “A” pillar trims, or behind any plastic. Then when you pass a magnet over it (within about an inch) it will allow the car to start. In this simple circuit, the kill switch is turned on as soon as the ignition key is turned off. So you can’t forget to set the kill switch (its automatic), you just have to use the magnet to turn the kill switch off, so you can start the car. So, turn the key to ON, pass the magnet near the reed switch and the LED will turn ON, announcing the kill switch is OFF, then turn the key to start. Easy peasy. For maintenance by some shop, insert a fuse (safer than using a switch) and the kill switch is bypassed.

Side note...you may think this is a bit too complicated and unnecessary, but after reading all of the above, one guy told me that he uses RFID (radio frequency identification) to "unlock" his limit switch. I think that's really cool, but WOW! That's a whole lot more complicated than a reed switch, a magnet and a relay.
11.  Transmission lock: If you have a 70, I understand this was done from the factory. If the back wheels can’t roll, it makes the process of towing more difficult. I have a 69 with an automatic and of course it has a floor shifter (since that’s all they ever came with). Back in the day, and long before digital pictures, I came up with a method to lock the shift linkage with a spring loaded pin. The pin is removed from the linkage by a solenoid, and it is operated by a switch that is controlled by the shift button on the T-handle. If the kill switch is on, the power to the solenoid is cut and you can’t take it out of park. I would love to show it to you, but I still don’t have any pictures. I came up with this using the simple home tools I had at the time, so think about it and surprise us with your version. You may be able to provide pictures before I tear mine apart ;)
12.  Electronic handbrakes: sometimes called electronic parking brakes – work on the same basis but use electric motors to achieve the locking effect. Press or pull the button and motors on the rear brakes press the pads onto the discs. You can often hear a reassuring whirring noise as the motors do their work.

Maybe get 4 tire/ wheel dollies to be able to move it safely close to the wall.
I'd disconnect the negative battery cable. 
Something to keep the mice away. No idea of what, if anything works.
Or let @Mach1Driver use it while you're gone. He's around the corner from you. 

I have a  TKX in my 70.  But I have a different transmission mount from those.  I have no idea what brand it is as it came with the car.  The first mount you showed should work just fine. 
 
 

I am in the market for another 69 mach 1 project and have been watching prices a good bit lately.  I didn't see anything in the ad that said Mach 1 so I assume it is a sportsroof. Yes that is way to high I have seen sportsroofs in the last few weeks in this condition or better for around 12 or 13k. I bided on a 69 R code on ebay  a couple of weeks ago  a lot of body work already done and was in primer it needed paint and assemble and the interior restored. Had the 428 C block but not the heads (not original to the car but was a 69 date code that had been machined and all new parts just needed to be assembled. The 9 inch track lock was completely rebuilt and painted. I didn't see this ad on ebay until it had only a few hours left, I bided 25k on it and had the high bid for 24k. By it being on ebay and site unseen I got cold feet and pulled my bid the last few seconds to go. The reserve had been meet to, so it was mine and I chicken out. Turns out everything was legit, I'm still kicking myself.  

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. 
The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory. 

Update: I took the drive shaft back to the company that made it and they found a thrust washer missing from inside the rear uni cap. This will make the uni offset about 1mm. I saw a washer on the floor of the garage and didn't recognise it so added to the washer box. This explains why the vibration got worse after changing the transmission bushing. Extremely happytto find that. They have put the shaft on their balancer and said it is slightly out of true. They are repairing it today and I am getting a new yoke and two new uni's just to be sure. I'll report back as soon as I have driven it again. Fingers crossed!!!

Years ago a guy on another forum asked  if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.

Brahahaha. Airplane. 

I have a sqeak coming from somewhere behind the front seats. After much investigation I found if I turn up the stereo real load the sqeak goes away. 

Midlife just to let you & everyone else know the wiring pigtails for the oil pressure & coolant temp sending units #-14489-12A was a perfect fit. Thanks again for the info.
 

If I'm not mistaken, Chocko claims that Vettes used the same PS unit as Mustangs and he didn't get the complaints from the Vette guys. I wouldn't be afraid of a factory PS unit, especially from Chocko, and he will be rebuilding mine.

Ponderosa lodge burned down ,a propane tank exploded ! 
Reservation road up to Eagle Mountain cassino is totally washed out so they are shut down for who knows how long .
Camp Nelson is totally washed out ,my aunt lives there. 
The road to Balch park is a total mud slide .
The whole back side of Lindsay is flooded and so is a lot of Porterville .
Highway 99 has flooding in several areas .
We have another big storm tomorrow that is supposed to dump anywhere from 2 -3 inches so that is going to ad to it a bunch !
Our flooding has receded about 10 feet from the marker i hammered in yesterday but with what is coming tomorrow it just may make it in the shop again .
Red cross helicopters have been flying over all day taking supplies to the mountain communities that really got hit hard  ,going to be an interesting next couple of days .

Wake up fellers! Just a bit slow on here eh?
Finally got my Quick Fuel 680cfm vacuum secondaries (Holley based) carb dialed in real nice. Was having a stumbling issue at WOT, not that I do that even close to a regular basis. But it bugged me never the less.
Started by increasing the jet sizes on the secondaries without any effect. Then increased the primaries without any effect. After doing some reading and calling a few guys, I increased the the power valve from 6.5, which Holley says is correct from their math, to a 9.5. 
The motor never performed better. Butt, the afr at highway cruise was way low at 12.5. Swapped in an 8.5 and all is well. Great afr numbers at idle, acceleration, and, WOT. Know how my Mustang likes to change on its own, so knows how long this will last. 

I've used a kitchen or large garbage trash bag, folded over, under each wheel to assist in caster/camber measuring.  The tool that I have is an old bubble gauge, but quite accurate.  It was also quite cheap, less than $50, IIRC.

Wait a minute, didn't I see that on an episode of MacGyver? ;)

There are a couple of different sizes of 90* connectors: you want one that fits a #10 bolt.  I found a source for them, and relayed that information to NPD.  Since then, they contacted AMP who makes most of the aftermarket wiring harnesses, and ordered a bunch of 90* connectors with wire pigtails.  The part number is:  14489-12A
https://www.npdlink.com/product/connector-90-degree/209677?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dwire%2Bconnector%26top_parent%3D0%26year%3D

I have the CD in all my cars ,i am surprised i haven't melted it down by now 

I still have an Eagles Hotel California t-shirt from one of their concerts

We haven't had lights like that since 1969
welcome to the hotel California ,such a lovely place  ,such a lovely place  haha !
Ah ,you have to be an oldy to get that !

Old tranny out and new tranny in, in only 3 hours ,i think i could work on one of these with my eyes closed now ! Runs and shifts like a new car now!