Mach1 Driver

Had a surprising weekend with my stang 'Penny' guys.  I had signed up for the Keels & Wheels "Concourse de' Elegance" show in Seabrook, TX.  Ive been twice before (last before covid), but this show is full of amazing vehicles, and I have been happy they let me even show.  
Well, I wanted to see if there was anything I could do to "up my game" in a short amount of time, and I noticed that the trunk was 10pts of the score.  I've never liked the stock treatment and said I wouldn't do it, but I never seem to get around to "doing it right" like I said I would.  So, to try to improve my score I bought the stock trunk liner, jack bag, and spare-tire cover.  Spent a little bit of time laying it in there, and trying to make it look decent.  Came out like this:

All I had to say was: "Well, it certainly looks better than nothing/what I had".  So I went with it.

The surprise came when I checked the judges sheet Sunday afternoon:  "Best in Class"!!  Unbelievable!
I've only put the car in maybe a half-dozen shows, and I've never done better than second place anywhere.  But the real surprise is that the show in Seabrook is one of the more prestigious shows (at least around here).  
It rained on Saturday, but didn't take any sunshine out of the day for me.  Aaron Shelby was here, and gave me a big "congrats" when I left the show - certainly an amazing day for me:

Put the Grande hub caps I got from Vic on my 69 Grande. Thanks Vic.

Not quite related to the mustang, but sort of. Getting my car trailer ready for some car show future events, installed the second battery and some charging and lighting hardware, also lighting control panel, LED lights all the way around the outside of the trailer and inside. A way to keep my wiring skills up to date. 
 

Your Shocks are most likely failing...
When I had my old mid-eye leaf springs, I had the same issue, come to find out it was my old Shocks (KYB) were failing and the leaf spring bushings were also worn out. I upgraded to Bilstein shocks and went with a de-a-lum bushing and shackle kit with greaseable fittings, the problem went away.
I would also check the leaf springs for any damage, warpage, or cracks.

Yes all the time. I have seven of their CDs... Somehow I lost my original 1973 Colorized Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams, but I have a backup. The Forel manuals are good for Electrical and Vacuum details, and another CD with Parts and body illustrations, but to my knowledge, Forel does not have Engine Assembly. You have to get the shop manuals for that and other things. I have the Shop Manuals from David Graham Auto Literature. Forel also has on CD The Ford Master Parts Catalogs (MPAC), which  are packed with parts and numbers by year, model, etc, but are very cumbersome to browse thru, best to use the PDF search function. Finally, there Assembly illustration manuals published by Jim Asborn. There are also helpful, but the pictures are sometimes very faint and hard to read. I prefer a digital copy so I can zoom in on sections.
One more comment on Forel, years ago Forel required you to install software called PDF OwnerGuard License Manager to install the CD on you r computer. This software was always malfunctioning and preventing access to the manual. I would have to call them to get  it fixed, but fortunately they did away with it a few years back.
 
I say you can never have enough Information....:-)

 

Hi Brian,
Did you try NPD. If all you need is the two plugs, then this kit may be overkill.
PLUG AND GROMMET KIT, (44), repro, contents:377901 seat access hole and top of cowl under fender (10), 376966 front fender apron, trans crossmember (10), 377977 frame rail at sway bar (2), 378923 rear shock access hole (2), 378770 inner frame rails at transmission (2), 377949 trunk floor pan plug above frame rail, side of cowl at door hinge, LH apron behind shock tower (5), 377678 heater hose firewall for A/C cars (2), 377936 inner frame rails at radiator and center of firewall (5), 377356 rear spring front bolt access hole (2), 383181 top of cowl under fender (2), 011202 quarter panel drain (2)
NPD Part Number : 011136-5K
Manufacturer Reference #'s: 376970,

My car has an edelbrock carb with an electric choke that was never hooked up.  And a 1-wire alternator, so I couldn't just wire it to the usual post on the back of the alternator. :(
I finally ordered one of those dual port oil pressure extensions and it came in today.  I have the usual big pressure sending unit for the gauge, and now a smaller on/off switch.  When the engine is running, the oil pressure switch closes a circuit and now my choke works.
Its the orange wires here.

 

I attended the Charlotte AutoFair a couple of weeks back and came across a used Edelbrock RPM Performer 2181 with the following measurements:
Rear height = 4-7/8 inches (4.875) and Front height = 3-5/8 inches (3.625). It was not in the best condition with several stripped threads so I passed.
Thanks for all of your detailed work, Mach1 Driver. Using the Weiand looks more promising now than it did in the beginning. I've got a ways to go before I drop the motor back in so I won't be able to confirm the actual clearances for a while.

Recap, I have a bone stock 351w that is a 2v. Curiosity got the better of me so I finally pulled my carb and distributor to measure my intake manifold on the car. As stangs-R-me speculated, the 2V is the same height as the 4V, or 3.00". Using playdoh on the stock air cleaner in four positions, it is 2.016" to the hood at the closest position. This is with the 1.025" high aluminum spacer that the PCV connects to.
The Weiand is 4.715 tall so even with a 1" spacer and stock air cleaner my math says it should clear the hood by 0.300. Double check please.
Edit: If you have a Mach1 hood scoop (not shaker), the three bolts on each side need shortening to the nut. The following numbers are with the 1" PCV spacer. The front and rear bolts appear to be outboard of the raised ring on the filter lid where the air filter contacts. However, the center nuts are in the way. You could remove them entirely or maybe shorten the height of the nuts. It is difficult to get a good number with playdoh but I calculate clearance to the nut at 0.243 to 0.055 using the Weiand Stealth manifold.  With the Edelbrock 7181 it is even worse with clearance to the nut of 0.158 or actual interference of 0.030. The Edelbrock 2181 Performer would have at least 0.700 clearance to the nut.

It is on my daily driver; I use it to go to work, shopping etc. Did not encounter any of those but I do not live in Atlanta downtown traffic kind of city.

Recap, I have a bone stock 351w that is a 2v. Curiosity got the better of me so I finally pulled my carb and distributor to measure my intake manifold on the car. As stangs-R-me speculated, the 2V is the same height as the 4V, or 3.00". Using playdoh on the stock air cleaner in four positions, it is 2.016" to the hood at the closest position. This is with the 1.025" high aluminum spacer that the PCV connects to.
The Weiand is 4.715 tall so even with a 1" spacer and stock air cleaner my math says it should clear the hood by 0.300. Double check please.
Edit: If you have a Mach1 hood scoop (not shaker), the three bolts on each side need shortening to the nut. The following numbers are with the 1" PCV spacer. The front and rear bolts appear to be outboard of the raised ring on the filter lid where the air filter contacts. However, the center nuts are in the way. You could remove them entirely or maybe shorten the height of the nuts. It is difficult to get a good number with playdoh but I calculate clearance to the nut at 0.243 to 0.055 using the Weiand Stealth manifold.  With the Edelbrock 7181 it is even worse with clearance to the nut of 0.158 or actual interference of 0.030. The Edelbrock 2181 Performer would have at least 0.700 clearance to the nut.

Heck, I wouldn't do it but Tinman did an installation video on a 67 with it sitting sideways on a rotis:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=APwXEdeGGcvTODd3jbQaie-WEJs0X_eoeA:1681944641256&q=tin+man+mustang+sub+frame+connectors&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwijv_6GhLf-AhXTSzABHYQXDJsQ0pQJegQIChAB&biw=1280&bih=570&dpr=1.5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:b5c02a0d,vid:exeONRNM8zY

Heck, I wouldn't do it but Tinman did an installation video on a 67 with it sitting sideways on a rotis:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=APwXEdeGGcvTODd3jbQaie-WEJs0X_eoeA:1681944641256&q=tin+man+mustang+sub+frame+connectors&tbm=vid&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwijv_6GhLf-AhXTSzABHYQXDJsQ0pQJegQIChAB&biw=1280&bih=570&dpr=1.5#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:b5c02a0d,vid:exeONRNM8zY

I also installed mine without the engine and Jenner. I fingered the rest of the body was welded together without them, so...
I don't think it matters much. 

I thought it was because he laid off the Cactus Juice

Damn, that's the first correct answer out of the last 8,439 responses!  I'm slipping, I tell ya...

Back in 2015 I was toying with the idea of swapping in a complete ready to bolt-in EPS (electric power steering) system that included a modified Ididit tilt column that would accept the stock 1969 steering wheel.   
So maybe it has been available for a while !!
Doug
   

Holy cow I'm a dummy LOL!!!!  That worked and some how I must have twisted that without realizing it, thanks so much!!!

Worked like a charm.  I measured twice and cut 4 times (doh) but this finally did the trick. I was able to move the trans over by 1/4" (maybe even just 3/16") and it got rid of my rubbing.  My crappy old rubber mount may need replacing soon anyway (it's old.) but it's an easy thing to modify again if required.  Driveshaft goes in next, so fingers crossed all my trans/driveshaft/pinion angles are good.
 

The original Ididit columns were only designed to fit GM steering wheels, but now are made to fit our Fords. The slip ring assembly for the horns didn't line-up.
I don't know when these became available, but it was news to me, so this is like a public service announcement ;)
I only checked for the 69, but the things to look for:
The top of the column is a close match, the original was 3.965, and the new one is 4.00
It has the the EM flasher switch and turn signal switch
This column will only work with the original factory power assist (or manual), but not Borgeson
The slip ring works, fitting the original steering wheel so the horn will work.
It is collapsible just like the OEM to meet safety regulations.
The whole thing is said to be a direct replacement, giving you a tilt wheel.
The part number for a 69 paintable column is 1300646010 (currently $781)
The rag joint is 3000053434
I haven't tried this yet but now we have an alternative to finding the unicorn OEM columns
 

Hi Dave, yes they said it was the length. I didn't get into it since I don't have Borgeson.

This is very tempting. I removed the Flaming River tilt column I had because the stock wheel didn't work with it, and I wasn't a fan of the manual rack as well.

I know this is an old post, but I was looking for 2 1/2" tips and came across the post.  I'm only replying here to show they are still available, albeit a different price point.  
In 2019, the price from the company was stated to be $174.99.  Today, currently listed at same company for $309.99.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/dual-exhaust-tip-ultra-hi-flow-2-1-2-stainless-steel-with-rolled-ends-pair-1967-1969/p/EXT25/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxMmhBhDJARIsANFGOSsy1uukViz9zoCdgPlit3PXM3fGKs26IyqE-p2zpgGKSAGdqVh4P2caAqJ3EALw_wcB
 
 
 

I've been having a random problem with not enough brake vacuum pulling up at the lights. Suspect cam related. Only happened a couple of times but scary when not expected. I fitted a vacuum canister. Initially fitted where the vent vacuum canister was located but I found it was too close to the wheel so moved it the front of the guard. The can has three ports so set up with vac in and vac out. The third port used for the vent vacuum so I have done away with that canister. Test drove and works very well. At least one job this week was a success.

I got to test drive this morning after straightened axles, new wheel bearings, rebalanced tailshaft, new universals, new yoke and new transmission extension housing bushing.
While I feel there is an improvement it definitely still has a vibration. 80 and 115 kmph is the most noticeable. While it is no longer severe, it's still not right. I keep feeling like it's the tail shaft. I can see the vibration through the shaker when driving which continues when I put it in neutral and engine returns to idle.
Running the engine in neutral and moving through the rev ranges the engine is smooth.
I would like to try a different set of rear wheels for a test drive and see if that makes a difference. I may swap front to rear for a start. It's a good thing I drink! (not while driving).