Mach1 Driver

Well, this isn't the first time I would be wrong...

As aslanfe stated above ... 
All single exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit the trunk floor in the middle right by the sender.
All dual exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit in the passenger side drop off due to the transverse mounted muffler.
Info & pics of the dual exhaust version is here:
Dual Exhaust Fuel Sending Unit Extension Wire Harness - Dead Nuts On
My car was originally single exhaust, but I added the factory transverse muffler dual exhaust system to it back in the 80's when it was first reproduced.   
Pics below show the issue and how I made it work ... back then, I just assumed this is what Ford did on the dual exhaust cars.   
I did buy a new Alloy Metal Products taillight harness with the Convenience Group from NPD last year and it only comes in the Dual Exhaust version.   Have yet to swap it in but when I do, I'll do it right and drill the hole in the drop off and put a rubber body plug in the old single exhaust wiring hole.
Doug 
 
 
  
 

Wow.  Another reason why I can't really understand what are the reasons for the variances...I prefer to restore customer's wiring so I know it is appropriate to their vehicle.  Otherwise, it is simply a crap shoot and I don't like that at all!  Now it is even more of a crapshoot!

Sorry about that, my son still hasn't gotten around to looking at that. For some reason he puts his work before mine- the nerve of him!
Here is a shot of the wire routing using the snipping tool. I show the Cougar version first because it is the only page that has the fuel sender wire that Mid mentions in the post above:
Cougar 2-E14 interior lights, clock, cigar lighter, but shows fuel sender wire

Mustang 2-E22 exterior lights, clock, cigar lighter. No fuel sender wire shown

Ethanol Free 91 is still available around me (separate HOSE even at my local station), so that is all I run and thankfully Ethanol is not a concern for me.
I've also thought about EFI, but way too much stuff to modify or change which makes it even more difficult to try to maintain my desired "stock look".   Plus the tuning aspect of it scares me.
When the engine was built in 1987, I originally ran a stock Autolite 4300 carb and swear it got better MPG's then.   I switched to the Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper within a year or so and ran that for 32 years.   It has 30 over TRW Forged Pistons (about 9.5 CR), a Crower 280HDP street/strip cam in it that gives it a nice & healthy sounding idle, and behind it is a Wide Ratio Toploader 4 Speed and 3.50:1 T-Lok 9".
When adjusting the idle screws / setting the idle on this Summit carb, I could not get the vacuum into the "normal" range no matter what I did ... as if there was a big vacuum leak somewhere.   I don't remember if this was the same with the Holley and at the time I did nor feel like swapping it back on to find out.   During all my tests to try and find this vacuum leak, I stuffed a rag into the top of the secondaries at idle and this will snub it out.   So I think there may be an adjustment that may need to be done with the secondary butterflies (unless this is normal).   Another reason swapping the Holley back on is even more tempting to see if a rag in it's secondaries will also snub it out !!    
Other than the 3.50 gears (3000 RPM @ 63 MPH), you would think it could get better MPG's ... at least around town.   I always felt that the Holley could use a little tweaking by someone with more carb knowledge than me and obviously now the Summit carb could definitely benefit from an expert's touch.
It starts, runs, and drives great "as-is" though, so I've just not had the time or ambition to play around with it any further.
 
Bottom line is this carb is definitely worth the cost & effort to try out on any small block Ford before the big switch to EFI.
Doug 
 
         

I am in the same situation, do I want to go EFI or a carb. My wife wants me to go EFI but I keep thinking a carb would easier.

Can't believe I'm already on my 3rd summer running this carb.   
The engine really does run a lot better and smoother with it than it did with the Holley, and I can basically drive it out of the garage cold and the electric choke does it's job allowing me to drive off without letting it warm up a bit.   
With the Holley (also with electric choke), it was a drama queen ... stumbling & sputtering if I did not let it warm up for a few minutes.
This 351W is still getting 8-9 MPG's ... I really thought the Annular Venturi's and Vacuum Secondaries would have made a difference.
Doug     

Thanks Dave, I'm working on it, but had a few setbacks. I much prefer the days when I was young and invincible... and too dumb to know better.

I'm no expert but I think you should have no linkage connected to your pitman arm. Then wind your steering box from lock to lock, accurately count how many turns it takes then halve that for centre. Then lock your wheel there so it can't move (maybe wrap some masking tape around the steering boss and the steering column) Your tie rods should be the same length either side, this is important. Then adjust your tie rods equally either side to get the Toe-In you want.

Thanks Dave, I'm working on it, but had a few setbacks. I much prefer the days when I was young and invincible... and too dumb to know better.

Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. 
I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.

Ya, I know a couple of guys who are going. I don't really care for the big events, crowds and heavy traffic ain't my thing. It's only about a 3 hour drive, and I've got a buddy who would put me up for the weekend, but that ain't enough to sway me. 
 

Man, talk about the elephant in the room, lol. 
 
Good luck 

Absolutely. That's his car you got your butt parked on. 

Having spent time as a Marine Grunt many moons ago, quotes from Full Metal Jacket have always been near and dear to me. Platoon is another favorite that is full of memorable quotes. 
Since this is a car forum, I'll pick a quote from the classic Pulp Fiction and clean it up a bit; "What's more chicken than messin' with a man's automobile? I mean, don't mess with another man's vehicle. It's just against the rules".

I have the whole interior for my 69 now.
I have had the molds for the trap door for some time ,made from a perfect 69 trap door ,it uses all the factory attachments .
I have also had the hockey sticks for a while .
The fold down latch covers came out perfect .
I even have the roll bar covers for the shelby bar ,i will be putting one in my 69 .
The piece above the trap door is finished both sides and uses the factory mounting clips 

Good advice. I cut all flanges, as there was about 1/16" warp mainly on #7 & #8.
Have a slight choof now, I'm hoping as they heat and cycle they will pull in. I've got alloy heads so a bit wary of using a breaker bar to tighten the bolts to bring them in :)

Well, the day has finally come.  The car is about to be transformed with new paint.  It waited in the shop for 9 months in line to get to this point.  I will document the progress.....   I am now going to open my favorite beverage and have a toast the car I have named "Gerry".  Named after the older gentleman who I acquired the car from. He had planned for years to restore it, but never got to it.  He passed away this January, and never got to see the car completed.  I will make sure his Daughter and Family get the pictures when it is done.

Trimmed and ready to mount ,a waxing and they will be ready to use 

Oh ,that feeling you get from being a picky ass and it pays off!
I let these bake in the sun most of the day ,couldnt hardly cut this stuff it got so hard . They came out fantastic! Of course this is a reverse image because its the mold . I would have made another set of molds except the texture came off the panels and i had to blow it out of the molds ,good thing for spray in mold release !
Now for the trimming ,mounting on a backing and waxing .
The mold is right at 1/4 inch thick and it does not flex .

Clean? Right. If you only knew Terry. 

I sanded off any loose splinters on the back of the mold ,cut it close and removed the panels from the molds . I have to scrub out the mold release ,trim to finish and they should be ready to make a set . Not sure but when i waxed the panels it may have smoothed texture a bit ,will not know until the first set is made  .

I think thats it then.  Time to order the correct window, and all the parts that glue to it.
And now I have a passenger window for a 69 fastback.  The only logical thing to do is buy the rest of the car that fits my window.  :D

I have been wanting a belt grinder, ok I have a belt grinder but I have wanted a specific type of belt grinder.
so I finally broke down and built one.
the vac base was a $40 swap meet find.
all the steel was free, salvaged from other stuff. I can’t allow new or slightly used steel tubing go to scrap if I see it’s usable.
the motor was free.
the paint I already had.
the wheels I bought, was planning to make them but I wanted to move this along.
still need to buy the VFD

Getting started on the rear seat panels ,i have a set of fairly nice panels . The old paint is flaking off so i removed as much as i could ,especially where it is flaking .
Passenger side is in nice condition ,driver side has a couple of gouges that i filled with duraglass ,once it sets up i will sand it smooth .next step is to primer both panels with high build and block sand until perfect . Then reapply the texture ,a few days of drying time and i will mount them on a backing so they do not distort and use them for a brand new mold .they will have all factory holes and back side mounting bracket .
That original paint really stinks when sanded!