Mach1 Driver

Sorry but i think you would be a world ahead to change the booster now with the correct one. The 69 as u know is offset making the pushrod pivot point  different and the pushrod is not aligned straight. Not saying it won't work but it will soon wear the vacuum seal. 

Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s
Here are some resources:
1.    Boosterdeweyexchange.com
 2.    Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing
 3.    The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service
 4.    Harmon Classic Brakes

Some more pictures I forgot to post earlier
 

Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s
Here are some resources:
1.    Boosterdeweyexchange.com
 2.    Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing
 3.    The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service
 4.    Harmon Classic Brakes

I have to admit, I did not even know this was an option.  You just need a paypal account.  Easy as 1, 2, 3.  I’m sure any amount would help.

I got a hold of a date and numbers correct carburetor last month.  Got it off ebay and after a little barter/swap I 'made an offer'.  Seller accepted and I had a shop, J and J Carburetors, rebuild and restore to original specs. I Installed a choke kit, bent a new fuel line, hooked up the pcv and installed on my 69 Cobra Jet.  A little fiddling around with the idle and the choke's fast idle speeds and we are back on the road.  All in all I am very satisfied with how it all turned out.  Gotta say the carb shop did a great job.  Three weeks turn around including shipping, no extra's, ran it before sending it back and did it for the price quoted.  Brian

I don't know the length off the top of my head.  Each year seems to be different as well. 
This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all.  Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so.  Corrosion at contact points are well above this level.  Unfortunately, this is not a precision system.  Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well. 

Car is finally home.
Will start final assembly after Labor Day
AusTex..  I think I have previous posts on trunk, will look when I get back home next week.
 

Any of them can fail, but some of the best are:
Motorcraft- it is made overseas now but Ford has procedures for qualifying vendors partially based on failure rates. This is what I run.
NAPA Echlin
Standard Motor Products

Yeah us Yanks are very zen

Here it is in schematic form- you can actually see what its doing here:

Hey Mal, yours actually moves? ;)
What we call an ammeter is actually a galvanometer, and yes it can be made to work a little better. Since it passes such a small amount of current you need to clean the connections at the "ammeter", at the flex circuit plug, at the firewall plug, and at the solenoid. Use something like Brasso in the areas marked in red.
For a big improvement others have lengthened shunt wire 38A. I've heard different lengths, but adding 22" of the same gauge wire would be a starting point. They all work the same way but the harnesses change from year to year and I've not heard of someone actually doing it to a 69. What they are doing is increasing the resistance of the shunt so that more current flows through the meter instead of around it through the shunt (in blue).
Other than that you would need to change it to a voltmeter as you mentioned, but I don't know of one that says "volts". I kinda remember them saying "alternator" but its early morning here and I don't want to wake people up.

Thanks 

A couple of beers will do that every time!

Yeah us Yanks are very zen

it was about once a year...and then I lost count

Lets hope the site isn't just "visiting" and will stick around a while. This is getting most discouraging.

Ya, that sucks for us Cali guys as he was just up the road in Fredno. 

I get that bouncing sensation too.  Usually when the car is in first fear and the gas pedal is on the floor.  Brian

Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!

Donated!
This site has helped me so much.  It needs to stick around for others!!

Well I got a reply back from Patriot who tell me these headers are not designed to fit Dart heads. Summit don't say they will or won't :(
Anyway, Stan at FPA has really stepped up and is building me a set to pick up when I go to the Bristol NASCAR night race next month. It's only a $2,000 cost, what else would I do with the cash.

Closing this one off.
First, I had been supplied 69 inner tie rod ends, not 70. Didn't think to check them properly when I fitted it all up.
Then the shop I had do the wheel alignment must have done a hack job, as the second shop that came recommended made it steer better.
I would not say it is fully happy, but it is very much improved to what I had.
At least now I can join the people saying that the Borgeson conversion is good.

I dropped the sump, added about a 1/3 tube of Dow Corning black silicone to each end.
After about 50 miles, no leaks. Hoping it stays that way.
Repop trash......

Update on this bump steer. Borgeson stated they had not found an issue in all their installs. They did suggest to pull the pitman arm and see if any paint was preventing it form sitting higher up on the sector shaft, which was going to be plan B.
Whilst thinking about the steering I pulled the sump to fix the rear main seal leak. Half a tube (literally) of Dow Corning black silicone later it was back on. It don't leak so far, fingers crossed. Looked up and the p/s pump had a weep from the pressure hose. Reefed on that fitting to tighten it.
Whilst under there I had a look at the tie rod ends. Found out that I had been supplied 1969 items, not 70 which may not have helped the steering issue. I replaced them with new 1970 ones.
I thought I'd try another shop for a wheel alignment, so I went to one recommended by another Stang owner, which luckily was 20  minutes away. An hour later, the new shop had pretty much dialled out the problem. It's not *perfect* but it is much better than it was. I'm glad that is sorted.
Last, found a helpful person on the Holley Sniper forum, who gave me some tips and provided a new configuration file. The PCV valve was the older flapper style so I spent 28 bucks on Amazon getting a fixed orifice one, and plumbed it into the front vacuum port of the Sniper. The oil breather cap was also puking oil out when I gave it a Big Rev, so I replaced it with a Cleveland (uurrgghh) style cap with the hose into the air cleaner. It still leaks, but only slightly.
The new tune was pretty wild - lit up the rears in first and second on power, and rolling in second it would light them up at will. (I had some fun with a sports bike behind me, showing him the side stripe at will). Not really practicable but, so I pulled the timing back a bit which has toned it down. But I miss the sideways action so I might stick a couple of degree's more timing back in (insert evil emoji here). But it sounds alright I think.

IMG_0523.MOV After all that, I finally washed it after 10 months of shop dust got to me, and hit with a random DA polisher and some Poor Boys EXP paint sealant. It's a good looking car from 10 feet but the paint is crud and I have managed to put all sorts of chips and marks in the paint. Lucky I prefer drivers not show queens.