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Mach1 Driver

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  1. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from pw520a in how to wire the electric choke   
    Well, wire 904 Green/red stripe that goes to the regulator plug "stator" pin is live when the ignition is in "start" or "on". Since its only about an 18ga wire, I would connect that to a relay coil and use the N.O. contacts to drive the choke, wired directly from the battery.
  2. Sad
    Mach1 Driver reacted to rwcstang in AirFlow Research Bought out.   
    Received an email from my Machine Shop that there is a delay in my heads. 
    Air Flow Research Heads Announces Investment by Taglich Private Equity

    Air Flow Research is excited to announce that Taglich Private Equity, LLC (TPE) has acquired AFR. TPE is a lower middle-market PE firm that specializes in recapitalizations, management buyouts, and majority equity investments, targeting manufacturing, business services and consumer products companies. Taglich looks to partner with management teams that can take advantage of their expertise and background in order to optimize their company's growth potential and create long-term value.

    AFR’s management team and employees will continue to operate out of its Valencia, CA facility, continuing to provide high quality, performance cylinder heads, service, parts, and machining associated with the AFR brand. Nothing will change; it will be business as usual. As President, Board Member and significant investor, Rick will continue to be involved with the organization, ensuring the foundation that his family and employees have built over the past 50 years will flourish under TPE’s guidance.

    Taglich and AFR are excited about the growth prospects both organically and through future acquisitions of other aftermarket performance companies.
     
  3. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Midlife in how to wire the electric choke   
    There's a 15 ohm resistor in that circuit, so running it may cause the voltage to drop enough to not work the relay.
  4. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to bigmal in speedometer driven gear   
    As said above using the GPS. Plenty of cheap Speedo Apps for your phone that work vey well.
    As a rule of thumb I found each tooth equates to about 5% change. 
  5. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from JayEstes in Best way to prep engine bay for paint   
    Thanks, that was very helpful.
  6. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to JayEstes in Best way to prep engine bay for paint   
    I prefer Duplicor's engine paint primer.  

     
    And I use Duplicolors' ford semi-gloss black engine paint everywhere too.   If you're careful with this sprayer, you can get a very nice finish with the semi-gloss black:
     
     
    And for the truckbed liner, I use Rustoleum.  I find it is not anywhere near as rough as what you would see in a truckbed, in fact, the surface is not even very orange peely, but it is in some sense "rough" as compared to paint.  Good thing is, if you put it down on a good primer or primer or bare metal... it is not coming off, and it is hard a nails! 

    I've had mine in the wheel wells for about 15Kmi now.  I just went and wiped the road dirt off with a damp towel, and this is what it looks like behind the drivers wheel:

    Now, for caulk?  I am struggling to remember..  I wanted something that dried pretty hard and would accept paint.  I didn't want it too silicon-ized because even cured that stuff is very rubbery.  I found something at the HW store, but damn if I can recall what it was....  It needs to be something a little more flexible that JB weld, but significantly less than silicone (if JB weld is a 1, and 100% silicone is 10, you want to get something in the 3 to 4 range.  This is so the paint or bed liner wont chip off the caulked surface easily.  And you don't want it too hard because as the body panels move relative to one another (pot holes on teh road or whatever, it needs to give some).  and when you put it in and it's cured, I cover with primer paint or truckbed liner immediately, so it has a fresh surface to bond to.
    Hope that helps.
    Jay
  7. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in Removing old rotors....help   
    D'oh, we all have our Homer moments ;)

  8. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to JayEstes in Best way to prep engine bay for paint   
    Here is something you can try.  I found the near final prep phase that worked great for me was a small pan of lacquer thinner and a scotch bite pad and a cloth rag.  From the pics I see, you are close to or at the stage I would revert to the scotchbrite pad with lacquer thinner technique.  Once you have most of the big crud removed (I would say you are definitely there).  I would get a 1 qt disposable tupperware and fill it halfway with lacquer thinner.  I get the best and thickest pair of gloves I can find (PVC gloves are the only thing that ever provided much protection from the strong lacquer thinner).  Nitrile will melt instantly so don't use that, and other rubber gloves may work for awhile.  Even the PVC gets hard and crunchy after several uses, but for the most part it protected my hands.
    Just dip the pad in lacquer thinner and gently rub the surface with it.  After you have scrubbed an area briefly, a lot of crud and grease and oil will be released.  dip the rag in the same stuff and wipe away the crud.  examine the surface and feel of it with a bare hand after the lacquer thinner has evaporated.  The goal is NOT to remove everything (it will do that if you keep rubbing!) but to leave the surface with 1 or 3 things: 1) a very clean and smooth original paint layer, 2) a very clean and smooth original primer layer, or 3) bare metal.  For myself the goal is to get to stage 1 or 2, but avoid 3 where you can.  As long as the metal is good and the primer and paint are original, and you have all the dirt and crud off - you are good to coat with the base layer of your new primer.  Where everything is stripped down to bare metal, just make sure the surface feels smooth with areas that have primer or primer & paint on them.
    Once I have a whole section ready using the lacquer thinner + scotch brite pad followed by lacquer thinner + rag , I would rattle can engine primer over the surface I had just prepared.  Do it early because the laquer thinner softens the paint/primer and scratches the surfaces and you get a great bond with that new primer base.  And you want to do it before it can get dirty again or rust starts setting back in (this can happen literally overnight).
    When I did my engine compartment, I followed this work by going back in and caulking up the metal seams with a hard/firm long-lasting caulk that would accept paint (be sure not to caulk lower edges so if water comes in from the other side it can drain back out).  When that dried, I put a full coat of primer over the top of that, and then the paint.  I got really exceptional results doing this and it was not a ton of work.
    One caution is that this method will put a TON of black paint/oil/dirt sludge on the ground under where you are working.  Your shoes and pants will get coated, and if you don't put down a drop cloth or large cardboard, it will blacken your floor good.  Do the prepwork by covering the ground under you well before you do this work.   I wound up wearing tyvek overalls for this work.  It's messy but satisfying.
    For RUST:  I have used Ospho a lot.  I have found another good solution - perhaps even better - but it works a little slower.  That is Evaporust.  The instructions call for you to soak a paper towel or something with it and soak it through, then lay the towel over the rusted metal.  I find that it needs to sit overnight, and if the rust is bad, the next day I brush and clean it as much as possible and do it again.  One benefit over ospho is that it doesn't leave behind the white powder when it dries.  One downside maybe expense.  However, a friend told be he got a gallon of it for $17 on amazon.  I use this mostly for nuts and bolts - the fluid can be reused many times if you are using it as a dipping fluid.
     
  9. Haha
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from JayEstes in Removing old rotors....help   
    D'oh, we all have our Homer moments ;)

  10. Haha
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from jjstang in CORBEAU seats for 69   
    That looks like a guy sitting there with his hands on his head, with a headache ;)
    Now try to get that image out of your head.
  11. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to jmlay in Air Cleaner Vacuum Motor Question   
    If I recall correctly the vaccume line runs to a valve that closes when the engine warms up, cutting off vaccume to the motor. No or less vaccume allows the motor to open the door allowing ambiant air to enter the air cleaner. Door is normally open and closes with vaccume.
  12. Haha
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from Midlife in CORBEAU seats for 69   
    That looks like a guy sitting there with his hands on his head, with a headache ;)
    Now try to get that image out of your head.
  13. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from det0326 in CORBEAU seats for 69   
    That looks like a guy sitting there with his hands on his head, with a headache ;)
    Now try to get that image out of your head.
  14. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to BuckeyeDemon in 69 mach 408w build   
  15. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to TexasEd in volant Deluxe mach1   
  16. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to stangs-R-me in 1969 Mustang Summit M2008 Series Carburetor Install ...   
    Guess I should post an UPDATE since I've been driving it since the end of April !!
    As I stated in my Jan 5th post, I pressure tested my custom fuel inlet line in a bucket of water with compressed air and had no leaks.   Well, I ended up having a fuel leak between my custom tube and the brass primary fuel bowl inlet fitting.   Tightening it did not help, so I removed the tube assy. and put on temporary hose barbs / tee and cobbled it together with hose & clamps.   My flare on the tube was good at the leak point, however the cone in the brass adapter was distorted / damaged so I ordered a 2-pc set of them from Summit (surprised it actually sealed up to the temporary brass hose barb adapter).   There was the Summit brand, Holley, & Demon to chose from and I went with the Demon 142117 2-pc. set as it came with the washers & screens and was the best value (all 3 are likely made by the same mfr.).   Replaced it and reinstalled my tube assembly and the leak was gone.
    I had read that you really should use a 4-hole carb spacer on a dual plane intake so I also ordered up a Canton 85-154 4-hole 1/4" thick phenolic spacer and a MR G # 55 4-hole gasket for between the carb & spacer to replace the thick open center gasket supplied with the Summit carb.   Since my Offy 360 dual plane is not a 4-hole style, I used an open center gasket between the spacer & intake.   With my custom Ram-Air set up, I can't have any thicker spacer than this.
    I had also ordered up the MR G # 97 1/4" thick heat dissipator set (2 aluminum plates & 3 # 55 gaskets) and tried this first but it did not dissipate the heat enough in that I could hear fuel gurgling when I shut the engine off when hot.   Funny, the Holley never did this and all I used under it for 30+ years was a single MR G # 55 gasket !!
    The electric choke hooked up to the alternator stator terminal (instead of 12V as stated in the Summit instructions) also seems to be acceptable as the choke fully opens like it should and when it should. 
    I also installed a Holley 20-59 Quick Change Cover Kit on the Vac-Secondary spring chamber.   The secondaries did not seem to be opening, so I swapped out the stock 0.033" wire spring for a 0.029" and they now seem to be opening at the right time.
    I also followed the instructions from this video prior to installation:
     
    I did need to turn the curb idle speed screw in a bit to get it to idle at 700-750 RPM and the sweet spot on the idle mixture screws is at 2 full turns out.   
    My vacuum is a little low at idle (only 11-12"), and I'm tempted to swap the Holley back on to see where it was at before. 
    It starts & idles nicely and runs & drives great, so I'm not too concerned at the moment.
    Doug
              
                 
  17. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to RobotMan in Replacement Gages   
    I am also an engineer so that is not an issue. Just trying to understand how they are tying it in. I assume you have to cut the existing connector from the harness?
     
    Thanks
    Rick
  18. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to det0326 in Replacement Gages   
    I have used the Dakota gauges, not on a mustang but another application, they worked fine. There is a control box that most of your inputs will be connected to and from the box the signals are transferred to the cluster via cat 5 cable. There's 4 inputs, ebrake, hi beam indicator, right and left turn that is a direct connection from existing wires from harness. I will also say that the oil pressure gauge stopped working and after a few diagnostic tests with a tec. at dakota he recommended returning the cluster for further inspection.   This was like over a year later and I thought there would be a charge but he told us the gauges were warranted for life.
  19. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to TexasEd in Question about Leaf Springs   
    Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
    Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear
  20. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to 69RavenConv in U joint cap clips, help needed   
    Only knuckleheads (like us) who work on 50 year old cars can understand the satisfaction that comes with a victory like this. 
  21. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Caseyrhe in U joint cap clips, help needed   
    Success!!
    Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
     






  22. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to TexasEd in Question about Leaf Springs   
    I feel like I got a good deal with John at OpenTracker.  They are off the shelf and were $120 each.  I have a firm grip even on bumpy or winding roads.
    https://opentrackerracing.com/product/4-5-mid-eye-leaf-spring-1964-1973/
     
    Suspension Mods Sourced from Opentrackerracing :
    1" UCA drop, 560 1" drop coil springs, 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators, 1 1/8" front sway bar kit, Roller spring perches, Standard Upper arms, Standard Lower arms, New Strut rod bushings, KYB Front shocks, Grab-A-Track rear shocks, 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit

  23. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Mexstang69 in 1969 Mustang Wire Diagram   
    Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks.
  24. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to RobotMan in My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration   
    Took a picture today of both son’s cars against the Blue Ridge Mountain backdrop in our back yard. Thought they turned out well!



  25. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from Shep69 in Rear wheel cylinder size .   
    He probably doesn't want to take it apart until he has the new ones in hand- that's the way I would do it.
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