Mach1 Driver

I had tried the washer already. I looked at my other fender and I saw where it didn’t have any gap between the inner bucket and the fender at the bottom. The fender that didn’t fit has an 1/8” gap. I drilled out the spot welds and moved it to match the other one and now it lines up perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions. 

Scoop is  original  nonfunctional with turn  signal indicators, I posted for Jerry above he wanted to know what the doug's D669y's sounded like. In his case tho with a stroker and if he adds an H or X pipe the note will probably be a little different.

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

You guys are a riot! 
And don't forget to wear those tin-foil hats, OK?

ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system.  Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese.  I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works.  The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit.  A few pics for reference.
 
 
 
 

Thanks!
By the way, my vacuum problem wasn’t a vacuum problem. Pretty sure I had water in the gas! It’s purring after filling up again, using a water treatment, and putting in a new filter. 

Yes its true. As mentioned earlier, this seems to happen about once a year. As a precaution I copy posts with information I don't want to loose into Word, print and file hard copies, then save them on my hard drive and backup drive. Also it is sometimes easier to search my drive than use the search feature here to find something. Well I wouldn't call it "easier", but sometimes more "successful". Never the less, I sure do miss the site when its down. Thanks BSWOR.
BTW, my old machine recently died and I'm waiting for my replacement Dell to be delivered. So I'm well aware of computer failures and what it takes to restore what was temporarily lost. Its a hassle to say the least.

Went around to my mates place to see how his Shelby looked after he assembled it when we had finished the body and paint work.
Car looks sensational.

It would probably be better to post a pic. I went with adjustable strut rods on my 69 Coupe that eliminate the rubber bushings.

I educated myself more and followed some of the advice on this thread and readjusted the valves.  That seems to have been the issue. Haven't driven it yet, but the idle is now smoother and consistent, vacuum does not drop, and best of all I can put it in gear and it doesn't die.  

And dont go away again!

I just saw this video showing the results of a salt fog test. I'm an engineer and love this sort of information. A salt test is used to accelerate the testing of paints and preps. It looks like he used an aquarium to make the chamber. We had about a 5'x3' chamber at work. This guy tests Por-15 and others. In the test he apparently tests Master Series Silver and their AG111 separately, and they both come out better than anything else. Master actually recommends that you use two coats of the Silver with one coat of AG111 on top. I wish he had done that just to show the results- it should have been the best by far. He says he followed the directions on the can so without those we can't be sure exactly what was done. The whole thing is worth watching, but at around 3 minutes he redoes the test using a better test method. Now you don't have to guess, you know which is best: 
 

Just to be doubly safe, Torin has jacks that are double locking with a pin: https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B00026Z3DQ

Replaced the leaf springs with Eaton OE style design, 114 and the ride height is perfect. 
Scott Drake junk should not be used, waste of time and money !

I got it done. I blasted it all to clean it up. Then bent the edges up and contact cemented Velcro down. Then hammered the metal lip back down to help hold it in place. I also redipped the rubber on the ends of all the stops. 

I think this is the way I will be going on my 65FB, no need to cut up the inner sill. Not sure if the 69FB will have the same option, will look at that once I get to restoration stage.

I intend to do this because its a very clean installation that looks factory and puts the reel out of the way: https://www.seatbeltstore.com/Articles.asp?ID=249
And it appears that these will trim the hole nicely: https://corvetteparts.com/item/bezel-pair-seatbelt-outlet-at-roof-trim-black-1978-1982

Yeah I just machined the old antenna base to accept a power antenna and still retain the stock rectangular stainless cap, so it looks stock. Some wise-ass kid had broken off the antenna. Its difficult to get anything done during the Covid crisis, since they consider me an endangered species and I can't go out to get anything- it all has to be delivered. I've been trying to get a pedal and gun for a blast cabinet but the supplier (Tacoma Company) has been shut down for three months and they still haven't come up for air. I just got notice yesterday that Little Machine Shop is back up and running and put in an order for some tools there. So I'm proceeding slowly and won't be able to go back out in the wild until June 12 or so according to our governor.

Would it be best to fix the frame when as much stuff as possible is removed from the car (floor, right shock tower, radiator support)?
Also, is the X-6 in this from the bottom of the frame rail? If so I need to lift the front like 2", which doesn't make any sense. Or does "side rail" mean the outward flange on the top of the frame rail? If so then the drawing is somewhat missleading.
Not having english as your first language is confusing sometimes.

The breaker shown is 15A, and there is another that is not shown that is 18A, just in the H circuit, for the headlights.
D1 only connects to D2, and only when the knob is turned CCW. You will feel the detent- its for the courtesy lights. To test the 15A breaker you should get continuity  from B to A all the time. To test the 18A breaker you should get continuity from B to H with the knob pulled all the way out.
I'm not sure what you mean by : "Also between B and the coil when I pin is pressed against it". You should have resistance between R and I and it should vary as you turn the knob from hi to lo- try different resistance scales. This is the variable resistor for dimming the 8 dash, 1 ash tray, 1 radio, and 2 clock lights.

Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone. 

Very little overspray and I didn't cover anything. I did keep the gun in a direction such that nothing would be bothered and I held the parts in hand while I strategically sprayed them. I did spray the rear end housing right where it's positioned. Cheap Harbor Freight gun....lol!  

Jay,
I've been doing my own searching on this, just wanted some input from others. I sent my booster out to be rebuilt, told them to leave it bare metal. I will be painting it with SPI black epoxy which is not affected by brake fluid. In fact, I will be painting my whole engine bay in SPI black epoxy. Do a search on it if you question it.
Looks like the best thing for the master cylinder may be an Eastwood product: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-brake-gray-aerosol.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&msclkid=e1e066df4428197d7c9f386e346eb8f7
I may paint my factory calipers with a caliper paint, not sure what I will do with the other suspension components. I did purchase a coating off Amazon call Fluid Film for some steering components. Seems to have good ratings. Not sure though that I want to crawl under there ever so often and spray those parts. You can see it here:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008T8CXGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If anyone else has thoughts and contributions to this, I'd like to hear ya?
 
 

About 1mm at max.   
I find that I get enough penetration and its certainly strong enough a join.  
To finish I ground it down, used a 2” roloc flap disc to get it low and then hand file finished to the below picture.  
I think a very thin wipe with filler will be all it takes to have it done.
 
 

That appears to be exceptional work. Did you use panel clamps to maintain alignment? I did a  couple of wheel arches on my truck last week and thought I'd never finish them....lol!