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Mach1 Driver

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  1. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Alvin D Morava in LED tail lights   
    Gary email me at als69mach1@yahoo.com
    Would like to know what kinda dealing you would do with a complete kit fronts and backups with taillight so and flashers included to.
    1969
  2. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from 42ITUS in Please offer your opinion on color   
    The atomic silver is killer. I find silver with black stripes and hood to be really striking.

  3. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in Crome paint for gauge and click bexel   
    Do they at least buy you a drink before they bend you over?
  4. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from 69R-CODE in Ignition Problems   
    Just keep in mind that if you are going to change to a multiple spark discharge system then the coil is operated multiple times per power stroke so you can't tie the tach to the coil anymore. You will need a clean tach signal coming from a magnetic or hall effect pickup in a new distributor. Some ignition boxes have a tach output. Pertronix has an MSD system but I don't see a tach output in their literature. Just something to consider.
  5. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from 1969Fstback in DSS Racing   
    I don't know about you guys, but when barnett expounds on a subject I take note. It's great to have resident experts!! There are always "gems" in there to be mined.
  6. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in When to apply fender to apron seal?   
    Not really.
  7. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to 1969Fstback in How to start the build   
    I was in you shoes 3 years ago. I bought mine knowing little to nothing about body work. I did what Bob said to do. I inspected everything. I foumd the rockers, frames and torque boxes and all but the battery apron where good. I was going down the road of blasting then after I inspected all the rust in the sheet metal I realized blasting it was a waste of time. I knew i need to replace the door skins, qtrs, floor, tail lights panel, tail light panel fillers. The roof was solid but has a sun roof so I knew I was going to do the roof skin. So after I determined I had to replace 70% of the sheet metal and the front fenders and hood bolt on I saw no reason to pay to blast panels I was going to replace. Mine ran and drove and stopped. I upgraded the brakes and upgraded the ignition then started on the floors where my learning curve would be hid by carpet. Ive replaced everything on my list all thats left is to patch the fenders. Got them back yesterday, blasted and primed. I made a list of items in least to most difficult. Hoping my skill would match the difficulty by the time I reached the next part. So far I have been happy with how it turned out. For me the money invested is of little consequence. I am restomodding mine and have no plans of selling. And the journey working on it is probably more important to me then the finished product.
  8. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in Welding help HOUSTON   
    .
    This is starting to sound like Chef Ramsays cooking show....and it's makin me hungry!
  9. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in Not a technical question but........   
    Unfortunately, the original stripes for the P51 have been discontinued.
  10. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from premix in Center of balance   
    No my weight was not included: as you know that would throw off all the calculations. The car had nothing in it except the spare tire that it came with and a full 20 gallon tank. Yes it is heavier than specs say it should be but it is completely stock, I am the original owner, the truck scales are certified, and the single weight matches the total of the axle weights.
    Looking at the drivers side door sill, I took a measurement from the middle of the front attaching screw measuring toward the back of the car to the balance point for an empty tank, a half tank, and a full tank. The numbers are (rounded to the nearest 1/16"): from center of screw to empty= 1-1/2". from center of screw to half tank= 2-11/16, from center of screw to full tank = 3-7/8". The balance point moves back as the fuel tank gets fuller, to offset the weight.  
    As usual I can't insert pictures so it is in the attached Word.doc
    balance point.doc
  11. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from sandyoh2 in Remote passenger mirror   
    I did a search but didn't find anything- does anyone make a remote controlled passenger mirror for a 69...or something that can be retrofitted into the shell? Electric would be good. Thanks
  12. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in Welding help HOUSTON   
    I thought that too, but the last time I watched a you tube video the wife saw it and slapped me silly.
  13. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from winifredng69 in Lifting from the pinchweld   
    Since my Mach is so nose heavy and my lift has short arms**, I am going to use the pinchweld in the rear to support the car. I've read that some people use the bottom edge of the weld to support and others use the flat areas on either side.
    Since the edge of the weld is uneven and often has just one metal thickness sticking below the other, I can't see why anyone would try to use that surface.
     
    What have you done?

    ** Its the tyrannosaurus of two post lifts
         
  14. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in Mystery Chingadera   
    I think it's a muffler bearing.
  15. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to barnett468 in rear main   
    you may have to undo the two bolts on the right frane rail that hold the idler arm on then pull down on the arm to make clearance between it and the pan.
     
    remove the dip stick.
     
    if you have a pin it will be in the main cap not the block, and will be the cause of a leak.
     
     
    push on one end of the seal in the block until around 1/4" comes out the opposite side.
     
    grab that end with pliers etc then rotate it around the crank journal . do NOT pull it away from the journal untl you rotate it all the way out.
     
    put heavy oil like 50wt or engine assembly/cam break in oil all over the new seal and crank jurnal before installing it in the block.
     
    place it onto the crank journal then put light pressure on it to compress it slightly then carefully rotate it into the block.
     
    maintain pressure on the end that is going into the block.
     
    leave around 3/16" of the seal exposed.
     
    install other half of seal into main bearing cap leaving 3/16" of the seal exposed on the oppose end.
     
    install main cap.
    .
  16. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to ray1970 in rear main   
    Dont know about a 302 but i had to redo the rear main seal on my 351C shortly after the install..
    1.Remove cross member
    2.Remove oil pan.
    3.Get covered with oil.
    4.Remove main caps(All)
    5.BE happy to see bearings are still good..
    6.Push(spin) seal out with special tool NO.321AB& (bent coat hanger)
    7.Install new seal... Hoping it dosent get hang up half way threw and mal the rubber....
    8.Wonder if you put the seal in the right way?????
    9.Go get more beer.
    10.Clean up all parts and reinstall.
    11.Tell every body how easy it really was...
    12.Tell your wife what a living hell you just went threw...
    13.After all this find out it was the oil presser line on the back of the block leaking..
     
    ENJOY..
  17. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to 1969_Mach1 in Mystery Chingadera   
    Goes on the emergency brake assembly.  It's the switch to control the brake light in the dash when the emergency brake is applied.  That feature was optional in 1969 but the switch was installed regardless.  The light it would operate is the same brake warning indicator light controlled by the switch on the pressure differential/proportioning valve.  My Mach 1 has that switch on the emergency brake and no wiring to connect to it so my car did not have that optional feature.
  18. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to 1969_Mach1 in Suspension Upgrade??   
    TCP makes nice products and has been in the suspension market longer than many others.  Maybe it's just me.  But, it doesn't seem right that a well established business is promoting their product within posts in a forum like this.  It's great and very much appreciated to help with answers and solutions.  But do it in an objective manner that doesn't promote your own products.  In my mind one member recommending a brand or mfg is fine.  But a well established mfg promoting their own product in a post just doesn't seem right. 
  19. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from JayEstes in Tuning question   
    You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
     
    PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!
  20. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to fordguy69 in EFI install options   
    http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrdp-1101-performance-fuel-hoses/
     
     
    "Whether smooth or convoluted, PTFE hose intended for use in fuel or oil system applications should have a small amount of carbon impregnated into the tube bore. Low-conductivity liquid fuels such as oil, gasoline, and diesel have the potential to create an electrostatic discharge due to external environmental factors like high temperatures and humidity. Without the carbon to act as a grounding agent, there is the chance of a spark-inducing electrostatic discharge. Carbon-impregnated PTFE hose can be identified by its gray-black internal core instead of the usual pure white found in industrial-grade PTFE hose."
  21. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in Headlight aim adaptors   
    Well, I don't need a Marti Report ;)
  22. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from SA69mach in Tuning question   
    I don't want to get off topic here, but if I may offer a guess here, you also installed a MSD ignition box? I say that because in one of the pictures you seem to have a MSD brand Blaster coil. If you confirm the use of a MSD ignition box then I think I can offer an explanation as to why the tach isn't working.
  23. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from SA69mach in Tuning question   
    I think you are saying that the mechanic took out the old ignition/box and put in a MSD box?
    Ok here's how it works- in a stock system a wire is run from the ignition switch to the coil positive terminal and the other side of the coil goes to the distributor which has points that open and close. The opening and closing of the points makes a magnetic field buildup and collapse in the coil and this is what makes a coil operate. Normally coils work on AC power but this a way to make it work in a DC (battery) system. The higher voltage from the coil's secondary is discharged to the plugs via the rotor. If you didn't have the points it would only generate a field when you turned the key on and off- with nothing in between. The tach was connected to the side of the coil that the points were connected to. It would count when the points opened and closed and figure out the RPM from that. There are 8 lobes on the cam inside the distributor to open the points once for each cylinder. The MSD ignition is a "multiple spark discharge" system. It produces multiple sparks for each power stroke. It still uses a coil but now on each power stroke the coil is fired multiple times. This screws-up the tach because it can't count anymore- it doesn't have a clean tach signal. Often the MSD box will have a tach output that you can connect your tachometer to in order to get a clean signal. I hope all of that is understandable.
     
    not my thumbnails
  24. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from nickjames138 in Tuning question   
    You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
     
    PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!
  25. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from barnett468 in Tuning question   
    You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
     
    PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!
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