Mach1 Driver

Radiator Update:
Thanks to the help here I think I am going with this kit from WCCC.  It is complete with shroud, mounts and clutch fan setup.  I would need to get those parts anyway and th price is pretty competitive.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/16324-Cooling-System-Upgrade-Complete-Kit-Repro-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1968-Ford-Mustang-clone.html
 
Still thinking about the headers.

wells that's obvious- after all, we all hang out here!

My Mach is a 351w with factory AC so it came with the 24" radiator. The compressor still works to this day, but it vibrates a fair amount and bogs the engine down at idle. I've considered a Saden, but I really want the look of the original.This video from WCCC on cooling may interest you: 
 

My Mach is a 351w with factory AC so it came with the 24" radiator. The compressor still works to this day, but it vibrates a fair amount and bogs the engine down at idle. I've considered a Saden, but I really want the look of the original.This video from WCCC on cooling may interest you: 
 

This video from Don at West Coast Classic Cougar is the best out their, and much better than my version. Do it just like he says and you'll be fine. 
Every Mustang guy should have this video saved. Mustangs and Cougars have much in common, door glass included. 
 

Try  NO-Ox-ID special electric contact grease, improve conductivity and fight corrosion.

I used to use dielectric grease, but converted to using Boeshield T9 as a metal protectant against corrosion.

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right!  It was the contacts in the fuse block.  To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust.  But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease.  Problem gone.  Just took it for a nice ride.  NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights.  
Thank you guys!  Makes the cruise that much better!
And  its still Candy Apple Red!

And that back-end hop (or rear-end shift?).... idk, but it could be a mustang feature.  Best thing I did was put KYB gas-adjust shocks in all the way around.  I haven't felt back-end hop much since then - except on wash-board-y dirt roads.  Anyway, best of luck.  These cars have next to no weight on the ass-end, and so they always feel kinda light and shifty back-there on less than perfect roads.  Hope you get her rolling under you soon.  Projects that sit are the most depressing thing.  LOL.  BTW another good stabilizer feature was a 1in stabilizer bar up front.  It dramatically reduced body-roll, which may help on back-end feel.  Another approach is throw a few bags feed or sack concrete in the back - a little weight goes a long way. haha

So trying to figure out what is the best way to go in my situation.  Getting back to working on my 70 Mach 1, lots has been planned and many parts already purchased.  I'm looking at doing a minitub on it and am swaying towards the MTF tubs.  Looked at the DS tubs and Dynacorn tubs but don't really want to deal with interior mods.  
I already have the SorT coilover kit for the front and rear.  Years ago I purchased the Vintage Venom Cobra brake kit and installed it.  That's where I'm hoping to get some advice from someone that may know or can give me better advice then my thinking.
 
In the rear the Vintage Venom kit uses a bracket for the caliper and a hubcentric spacer that moves the wheel out approximately 7/16".  The MTF mimitubs give around 2" more of width in the wheelwell, if I understand correctly. (Has anyone done these on a 69-70 that would share some pictures? If so there appears to be a section towards the front that the tub doesn't sit flush with the rail.  What is the measurement from the rail to the inner edge of the tub in that area?).  So the SorT rear kit I purchased you weld the brackets on your rear housing.  Figured since I have the rear out I'm thinking about narrowing it to get my 7/16" back on each side.  Well you know what happens when car guys start thinking.  Now I'm debating if I should just go down to the width of a 65-66 rear.
 
65-66  57.25"
           58.375" If I remove 7/16" per side for a total of ⅞".              
69-70  59.25"
 
I assume this rear measurement is housing flange to housing flange.  Is that correct?
 
In the attached pictures it shows currently how the car sits.  The rear tires are:
 
Rims: 17x10.5 
Back Spacing: 6.8" (174mm) 
Offset: +28mm (1.10")
Tires 315/35/17's
 
I'm staying with this size tire at minimum, but will explore going wider if I can.  I've also thought about calling Quick Performance and just getting them to do a new housing for me.  If I go with the 65-66 width, will my axles work as they are?  Can I just have them shortened and resplined if needed? They are  31 spline axles.

And now for the rest of the story...
Why are police called pigs?
The term pigs, in reference to police officers, comes from England’s underground criminal slang and shows up in the early 1800s. It refers to pigs as vile creatures that take more than their share, akin to police officers who would take the illicit gains of thieves for themselves.

I would use a PCV.  I use this adjustable PCV on my 418W and it works great.  http://mewagner.com/?p=444

I am a founding member of the Mustang Owners Museum.  It is located right up the road from Charlotte Motor Speedway, in Concord, N.C., adjacent to the Daniel Carpenter manufacturing complex.    The Museum has just recently opened, and is starting to book a lot of events.   There is a long story about how this Museum actually got off the ground, and was actually allowed to use the name Mustang.  Anyway, I have pasted the link for the Mustang Event below.  
https://www.mustangownersmuseum.com/2020-nmd-event.html#id=128&wid=5201&cid=1250
The other thing is that they are likely going to expand the Museum, and if they do, you might be able to buy a "brick" for the walkway that leads up to the Museum.   I got one for my family, as we all have owned Mustangs. Over the years my Uncle, Cousins, and I have owned nearly every model of the early (64 to 73) generation Mustangs.
Here is a picture of my brick....Fregonese is my last name, and my family has gotten a real kick out of this.....
Hope you can get there someday.
Vicfreg
 
 
 
 

I looked.  I think I lucked out and cashed in on someone else's mistake.   They still list the carpet I bought but now the price is $314.99.  Still the best price around. 
https://www.ecklers.com/1969-mustang-mach-1-fastback-molded-nylon-carpet-set-with-mass-backing-red-inserts-44-456685-1.html
Kyle T.

Yes it is. And as I once heard Jerry Van Dyke say on Carson, pie are round, corn bread are square. 

whats the area code so we can ALL call you?

Hello...can I speak to Jenny? 

We did, but there was to much modification to make it fit, so we made our own. 

Are you describing a hand job?  Hmmmm?

I was talking about the hole marked as Distro-Vac on the pictures Grabber posted. On my cars the AC controls get the vaccum from one hose from the vaccum tank and vacuum is applied to heater hose valve through the other hose on that hole (you can see the hoses on one of the pictures above). As far as I remember, my 70 Cougar with AC has that hole and Vac tree.

This might help you.  

 

Well I have had a productive 2 hours.
Wiper motor is original to the car, built on March 24 1970. Still has the plastic cover over it, original bolts not been moved and the brushes still have a small bit of the original square ends on them; as in not even worn in yet. Also under the cowl is clean and original. No rust, no holes, no ugly. Funny, this car was built in Dearborn got sold up there somewhere and ended up in Texas. 
So I pulled the linkage too. Passenger side was nice and free but the driver a bit tight. With a bit of work flushing out the crap it's probably 50% better.
Chucked silicone lube over all the joints, cleaned all the earths and put it back together. On a dry screen it was an improvement so happy about that.
Then I went for a drive to celebrate.

Don't mess with the Big dog!

Perhaps the biggest problem with the PA Performance alternator (besides their faulty instructions) is that it is unique and needs their special regulator. If you break down on the road you can't go to the local auto parts store and get a new one, because your wiring won't match. Here is a look at a Ford type 3G that you can get from AutoZone or what have you. This is shown in a 68. I have checked 66,68,69, and 70, and they are all "electrically" the same in the charging system and power wires. That isn't to say that the colors don't change, or the wire numbers, or the wires may not be connected in exactly the same spot- but the electrons go to the same places.
This is a stock 68:

Here it is with a Ford type 3G. The ammeter won't work and must be replaced by a voltmeter (on 654 Y if you like). The line that runs to "I" has an idiot light and a resistor. The light is optional. The resistor may be anything from 500-560 ohms 1/2w. Some guys leave it out and wire it direct to I with no light or resistor. This works BUT if you leave the key on with the engine off the alternator will still be on and it could cook your internal regulator. Heck, even with the resistor it may- there doesn't seem to be any consensus. The size of the mega fuse and the gauge wire is dependent on the size alternator you get. There is a problem with circuit this that I will discuss later.

This one shows what happens if you get a short on one of the main power lines- in this case to 25 BK/O has been frayed or pinched and is connected directly to chassis. Wires 38A, 37, and 25 are all 12ga wires that turn into fuses and melt.

This is the best approach, prevents melting your main harness, and is what Ford finally did in 1970. Its easy and since you are in there anyway, just add a 14ga fuse link or fuse, and that will melt instead of your harness.

This chart shows Ford 1G, 2G, and 3G alternator outputs. Since the 2G is only slightly better than the 60A 1G and it was plagued with recalls for fires, I wouldn't recommend it. More isn't always better and if you want to keep the stock look with V belts then go with the 95A. It will still need two V belts (you can extend the next belt forward to make it work) and you won't have to go with a serpentine system that requires electric radiator fans that suck up another 20 amps. Choose wisely.