Mach1 Driver

A lot of these are for 69/70:
https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

I had an Optima yellow top last for 10 years, it was on a trickle charger when the car was in the garage.

Well that is another bracket that I have and figured that was where to place it. I am not sure what it does either. 

More good info:
https://www.deadnutson.com/1969-70-factoids-1/

Here is another great site.
https://www.mustangtek.com/

Thanks for posting the info. I had forgotten about those.

I just skimmed through the web page.  What a great resource!  Thank you for posting it.  I have save it for future reference.

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car.
Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around.
If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes.
Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68.  They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel.
I used the part number for the GT suspension.  The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing.  I have Bilsteins.
Did the same on my '70 convertible.
One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding.   I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air.  Big mistake.  I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine.  But the car did ride and handle funny.
I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....
 

Definitely interested in these!

something kinda like this?

It has been a while so I don’t remember the dimensions Terry. But disc and drum were the same as far as I can remember. Made the main out side diameter to fit tight inside the Magnum 500, inside diameter was slip fit to hub of the disc and rear axle. Put a lip with a bigger outside diameter so it stays in place and can’t move out (but not too thick so it won’t push the wheel out). If you have access to factory steel wheels, you can use the measurement of it’s inner diameter as the inner diameter of the ring as the factory steel wheels are hub centric.
My vibration was at higher speed (around 100 mph). 
A friend with a 69 428 Cobra Jet also had vibration with his Magnum 500s, rings got rid of it.

As someone who was chasing a vibration for almost 7 years I learnt that for me it was multiple sources. Makes if very hard to troubleshoot. I changed lots of things, sometimes more than once, and found each of the following made and improvement.
Full engine balance Rebuilt tail shaft (3 times). Each timer it was out of true. Bent axles Rear Drums badly corroded. (I know this is odd, but it made a difference) Pinion Angles. For me 0deg difference did not work. Had to be 2 deg down at the front of the diff. I experimented with 1, 2, 3 and 4 deg shims until I got the best results. I have to be very careful bolting on the Magnum 500s to ensure I tighten the nuts in sequence, a little at a time or I will get a vibration. The holes appear worn. Will be replacing. While I still have a very minor vibration, it is almost completely gone.

Pretty sure that was Zray on VMF. After a few overnight hotel stays with your Mustang parked in the lot, your level of anxiety drops considerably. 

Just spin a couple of donuts in front of the local PD ,they will gladly store it in the impound yard for you 

Be careful with that jumping the car from the solenoid.  That’s how I started my car in reverse when I thought it was in park and it backed into a tree.  Now it is getting a full body and paint overhaul.
 
 

Mine had the black face ,i bought it new .
Mine was also on a shaker hood ,i will have to see if i can find a pic of the car ,it was a 69 Mach1 ,spring time yellow black out hood and black and gold side stripes ,and i could kick my self for ever selling it!

I use peel n seal from Lowes. Same stuff as dynamat- it's just a little thinner and like 20% of the price of dynamat or fatmat. You could always double or triple the layers if you really wanted to. Rubbery/tar like adhesive and aluminum skin. Can't rust, wont come off easily, its a water tight seal, and really works. 
Watch these vid for info for what I did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7xi6lAeIog&t=114s
Will do inside of door skins when the time comes. Roof is also done. 
 
 

Yep. Be careful what you wish for. 
 

Used Dynamat on my 65 El Camino. Cut foot squares. Placed one inside the doors. One on either side of the roof. Then all accross the firewall until under the seat. 
 Big difference. Now I hear the other creaks and rattles better ….
 

Thanks, I see that Siless is made of butyl, so that explains that.
This has a very detailed (and very very long explanation) of how ResoNix insulates a car: https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-reference-information/
This is a short and incomplete version of how they insulate a door: ResoNix CLD (Constrained Layer Dampener) is butyl and aluminum, it goes on the door skin, then ResoNix Guardian is placed on top of that for sound deadening. It is comprised of several components, including a Hydrophobic Acoustical Polyester Cloth Facing, a 1″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, a 1/8″ thick 1lb Mass Loaded Vinyl Layer, another 1/4″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, and a peel-and-stick acrylic-based adhesive backing.
Then on the door panel area gets CLD again, and ResoNix Fibermat 25/45 (25mm or 45mm). It is hydrophobic and mold/mildew resistant. 25mm=0.98" compressible down to .158". I'm not sure how this would work on one of our cars, as the CLD is 0.158" thick, as is the Fibermat, for a total of 0.316". But they have a ton of products and I got tired of trying to decipher how this is done. By the time I need to do it they will have improved the products and changed everything anyway. 

I used a dynamat knockoff that has a soft rubbery material that does not absorb water. I used two layers in most areas, cuz more is better right? Including the one piece seat riser with center console. 
I used one layer on the inner door skins over the factory sound deadening material. So far (45,000 miles) it has remained in place. 
The carpet I used was the thicker ACC with the matting. I did have to trim the lower edges of the console to fit the seat riser hump since my console was for a non convertible. 
 
 
 

It's still a bot issue eating up the bandwidth.  I will talk with support again to narrow it down.