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Mach1 Driver

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  1. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Ridge Runner in 1969 -70 hood ,with 1971 -73 top   
    Whipped up a little handy dandy hood puller this morning ,yanked that sucker right out like a tooth !
    Only problem i could find with the hood was i was light on the gel coat on one of the scoops but that is not a problem ,i just have to take a little more care spraying up in there in the mold .
    I sat it on the 70 ,nothing bolted down and it just about a perfect fit .i even held the headlight buckets in place to get some pics . I will have to pull out one of my 69 and bolt it all down ,hinges and all 











  2. Haha
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Ridge Runner in 1969 -70 hood ,with 1971 -73 top   
    I ate the turkey ,no time for worky
  3. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from mwye0627 in 3G Alternator   
    If you break down on the road with a PA Performance alternator you won't be able to go to the auto parts store to replace it. PA Performance has its own special regulator so you have to use their alternator. All of the 3Gs require rewiring- nothing is plug and play. I would go with a Ford style 3G so if it breaks you can replace it on the road and get going again. Since you have to rewire anyway it just makes sense to add the two fuse links to protect the car properly.
  4. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in 3G Alternator   
    If you break down on the road with a PA Performance alternator you won't be able to go to the auto parts store to replace it. PA Performance has its own special regulator so you have to use their alternator. All of the 3Gs require rewiring- nothing is plug and play. I would go with a Ford style 3G so if it breaks you can replace it on the road and get going again. Since you have to rewire anyway it just makes sense to add the two fuse links to protect the car properly.
  5. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in 6R80 transmission   
    Huh, I wonder how it reads torque? Thanks, but since its that complicated I'll stick with the 4R70W and 351W
  6. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from bigmal in Cabin drumming with extractors vs iron manifold   
    You may need 1/4 wave resonance tubes to kill the drone. There's a good post on VMF. Search for "Drone help" and see post #3 for the formula. A resonance tube is a specific length of exhaust pipe added behind the muffler. It branches off of the existing exhaust pipe and is a dead end. You calculate the length of pipe you need based on the speed the drone occurs. The sound wave zips down the pipe, bounces off the end and returns to the main pipe at exactly the same time that the next sound wave is coming down the pipe and they cancel each other out. Pretty nifty. We used to do the same thing to cancel out microwaves in microwave oven door seals- its the same principal and is called a 1/4 wave choke. Don't worry, its simple math and any good muffler shop can do it.
  7. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Grabber70Mach in Dakota Digital Install   
    Attention @Mach1 Driver they are up:
    https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1221/category_id=706/mode=prod/prd1221.htm
  8. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Dave R. in 69 Fuel Sender   
    Bob's Speedometer Shop in Howell, MI. rebuilt them.    Dave R.
  9. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from newstang in When you think you’re cool.   
    Cool is a matter of taste. The Shelby is certainly a more expensive and better performing car but I can't really say I appreciate the look all that much, particularly all those tail lights. Also the signature four head lights were replaced with only two. I'm not saying that the front sudo brake cooling ducts wouldn't have added functionality, but the actual duct to make them cool the brakes was an option and didn't come standard with the car. I got that tidbit from a GT500 owner.  I wonder how much lighter all the fiberglass actually made the car?
  10. Like
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Grabber70Mach in Dakota Digital Install   
    @Mach1 Driver As of today I was told to look at the website in two weeks.  They should be available at that time.
  11. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in When you think you’re cool.   
    Cool is a matter of taste. The Shelby is certainly a more expensive and better performing car but I can't really say I appreciate the look all that much, particularly all those tail lights. Also the signature four head lights were replaced with only two. I'm not saying that the front sudo brake cooling ducts wouldn't have added functionality, but the actual duct to make them cool the brakes was an option and didn't come standard with the car. I got that tidbit from a GT500 owner.  I wonder how much lighter all the fiberglass actually made the car?
  12. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to 1969_Mach1 in Door grommet   
    You are probably better off getting used complete harnesses.  I say this because the original door harnesses have a lot of plastic channels that bolt to the inside of the door.  This keeps the wiring from interfering with the window and window regulator mechanism.  New harnesses are fine if you still have all those plastic channels or can also get the plastic channels.
    If I recall correctly, those channels are not easily removed from the harness assembly, so they are probably gone as well.  My go to place for stuff like that is Perogie Enterprises.  Some say their prices are high.  But I have only found that to be on the more rare items that are expensive everywhere and not the commonly found items.
  13. Confused
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Debbie in Door grommet   
    Mach1 driver
    I took your advice and ordered the grommets from LMR
    was so happy to finally get the door grommets 
    but unfortunately the picture on the website was very deceiving 
    this is what I received size of a quarter 
  14. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Machspeed in Dakota Digital Install   
    Yes, very much looking forward to this. Check out the gauges for the 67-68 stangs....sweet!
    https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1217/category_id=706/mode=prod/prd1217.htm
  15. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Dakota Digital Install   
    I hope so- I've been getting stall tactics for over a year
  16. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from Machspeed in Dakota Digital Install   
    Yes the line was to be called Retrotech and be out in Feb/Mar of 2019- or so they said in 2018. I asked about it earlier this year but they wouldn't comment at the time. Maybe if enough of us ask it may light a fire?
  17. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to cavboy78 in Gauges   
    You can buy a thermostat housing with a threaded port already in it. .
    https://www.cjponyparts.com/thermostat-housing-with-threaded-port-260-289-302-351w-1965-1973/p/TH16/
  18. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to bigmal in Always make sure you use the proper fuses   
    You'd certainly know when you blow a fuse.
    Do they come in different sizes? .22.38.45?
  19. Haha
    Mach1 Driver reacted to Midlife in Always make sure you use the proper fuses   
    A new meaning for the term "bullet connectors".
  20. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to aslanefe in Door alignment   
    Hope OP does not mind.
    It attaches in place of the jack pad. Made with parts from a swing set and a piece of square tubing. Door sits on the 2x4 so the edge of it does not get damaged. I also put some padding on the wood before I put the door on it. If you balance the door, it does not tip over. Use the bungee chords to squeeze/hold the door between posts after I load the door with the hinged posts down. I install/adjust doors alone with it.

  21. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from RPM in Who makes the best headliners?   
    He didn't mention it above, but I have read very good things about Mustangs To Fear's headliner. They are one piece and I don't believe they come in red.
  22. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from KMD88 in What should I fix first?   
    Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty!
    If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  23. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from 1969_Mach1 in What should I fix first?   
    Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty!
    If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  24. Like
    Mach1 Driver got a reaction from Caseyrhe in What should I fix first?   
    Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty!
    If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  25. Thanks
    Mach1 Driver reacted to mustangstofear in 428 or 351w-pros & cons   
    The BBK part  # we use is 15690
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