Mach1 Driver

BTW, fuse #1 also powers the flashers, radio and backup lights, so if those work, then fuse #1 is good. This is assuming you have an OEM wire harness- do you?

As I said in my previous post, power for the pump is coming from fuse #1. The first drawing is a schematic, not a wire diagram- follow the yellow, and disregard everything else, if you are only interested in the washer pump. The second drawing is a wire diagram. If you need this diagram, follow this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Schematics simplify the circuit so you can see how it works, while wire diagrams show all the plugs and wire colors and actual wire routing.

NO. 63 and 763 have nothing to do with the pump. Again: Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity (wires removed) from where wires 950 white/black stripe and 951 green connect to the wiper switch. with the knob depressed.

Push the knob in. First I would check 20A fuse #1. The key needs to be in the ON or Accy positions for power to get to fuse #1. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity (wires removed) from where wires 950 white/black stripe and 951 green connect to the wiper switch.

If he doesn't wander around, you could try StangNet- I haven't asked if its Ridge, but there is a guy on there that seems to fit his profile and goes by "Horse Sence"

Did you need to use the static mixing nozzles too? https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Adhesive-Mixing-Nozzle-Applicatior/dp/B07T72C2TB/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_1/132-0550893-9470358?pd_rd_w=P3Sd1&content-id=amzn1.sym.7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_rd_p=7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_rd_r=AP6STXHS7V859CHDNKEM&pd_rd_wg=PzTJE&pd_rd_r=a7a36a27-6fe2-4eaf-96d8-16a8018d80dc&pd_rd_i=B07T72C2TB&psc=1

edited out

From the 70 illustration manual Dave, this is from the 69 manual just for reference- I doubt there is any difference:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seal-fuel-tank-sender/106862?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dseal%252C%2Bfuel%2Btank%2Bsending%2Bunit%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-fuel-tank-filler-tank-to-pipe/150123?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfiller%2Bneck%2Bhose%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-hose-kit-concours-gas-ssnn-and-gas/106894?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dhose%2Bfuel%2Bline%2Bto%2Bsender%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-fuel-tank-filler-to-panel/106709?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dgasket%2Bfuel%2Bfiller%2B%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

If you ever wanted to know what Ben looks like.....

ep, as Mid says, its probably the neutral safety. Power comes from the battery, goes through the ignition switch, through the neutral safety and to the starter solenoid. If the solenoid doesn't even click, then it is either the ignition switch, the neutral safety, or the wire connections somewhere along the line. This is a schematic, not a wire diagram: Below is the exact circuit, but in wire diagram form. The schematic is intended to show how it works, and the wire diagram shows you how to wire the car. Most people find the schematic much easier to read.

From what I've read, swapping brake parts around can lead to just this kind of incompatibility problem. Many knowledgeable people prefer to only rebuild the original master cylinder- Booster Dewey (now Booster Steve) being one of the two shops I've heard of that can do so. There is so much misinformation about what replacement booster will fit and operate properly, that you really should watch the two videos that follow. Perhaps you can get the original back, or if not maybe you can purchase one that has already been rebuilt.

1. Is it a factory tach car? 2. Are you running the Pertronix at 12v or off the resistor wire? Does AAW even use a resistor wire? Part of my the problem is that since its not stock and I don't know how AAW does this stuff. If you answer those questions I can show you how Ford did it in wire diagram form and in schematic form, and that may help you. The Pertronix modules seem to run better at 12v, instead of 9v, but there is a method to do that and still run a factory tach. The factory tachs are current sensitive and raising the voltage raises the current, which makes them go wacky.

If its door glass, West Coast Classic Cougar has a good video:

You mentioned it is rewired- is it OEM style harnesses, or aftermarket with a new style fuse block, relays, etc? The reason I ask, is because if it is OEM style, then it still follows the original wire diagram, while the aftermarket harnesses do not.

Wow, you've got to admire work like that.

This chart is from Bolt Depot:

Fuzzy dice do not make it a Mach. Its a poor attempt at a clone.

I've always had a leak somewhere in the carb casting making the garage smell and the bowl dry up in a few days. Even on the bench I could never find it. But I didn't think of adding an electric pump to refill the bowl guickly at startup- that's ingenious! I wish I'd thought of that 50 years ago. Of course I could of just replaced the carb.

Thanks Dave, do you remember if the air cleaner had a drop base?

What part number manifold is that for? I don't have a shaker, but my completely stock 351w 2V manifold has a 1" spacer under the carb (actually 1.025"). Are you accounting for that? The manifold is 3", the spacer is 1", the carb is 3.25", and whatever room is left is for the air cleaner under the hood or shaker assembly that goes through the hood. I can't argue what the shaker does- I just don't know. My effort was to see what manifold would fit under the hood for a 4v carb or EFI without modifying the hood, engine mounts, etc. 69Mach1 M code has stated the carb pad height for a stock 4v manifold is 3.0", and unless someone can show me other front and rear numbers for a stock manifold, I'm going with that. I don't believe what Edelbrock is saying because the numbers change depending on who you talk to. They don't seem to really know what the stock manifold height is, and without that you have no basis for comparison. Edit: Here is an example of more double talk from Edelbrock- I received this email from their tech department only moments ago: Hello Terry, our Website changed so we are now able to Sell Consumer Direct and our Merger with the Comp Cams Group, we are not The Edelbrock Group, our Performer Intake Manifold # 2181 for your application is the same height as Factory OE 4-bbl Intake Manifolds, and it is 4.07” Tall, The PRM Intake Manifold # 7181 is 4.80” tall so right at 3/4" Taller, hope this helps you.

FYI, the Edelbrock Torker II #5081 has a pad height of 4.150, which is 1.015" higher than stock. No web hits on just a "Torker". Edelbrock has given me multiple numbers which were ALL erroneous for the stock carb pad height. Since we now know that the stock height is 3.0" (thanks to 69Mach1 M code), its easy to make a round chunk of plywood of the proper thickness and stick it on top of your air cleaner and see how close it gets to the hood before investing in a new intake that may not fit. If you've got a shaker, you can make a plywood spacer and stick it under the carb to check the height.

Hi Ray, long time no see. So you fashioned a switch out of the center medallion? I can see the terminal. After replacing several rim blow switches I put a switch under the center and rigged up a way to let the medallion pivot slightly to press the switch- way back in the 70s or 80s, and still working which is more than I can say for rim blow switches.

It could be the valve, but one of a few problems with Holleys is that the fuel bowls are hanging out there on the ends and use gaskets to seal them up to the metering blocks. Some guys say they have to replace the blasted things yearly or they leak, especially since the addition of alcohol to the fuel. It sounds like its time to change the gaskets Sam. First I would replace the gaskets, but Instead of cranking for a long time it would be better to use one of those oil squirt cans filled with gasoline and pump it down the bowl vents till working the throttle gets the boosters to squirt. The wiring to the solenoid is actually under size and if you crank it for a long time it has been known to smoke the wire, according to Midlife, who is our premier harness fixer-upper.

Thats purdy!