Mach1 Driver

I tried sending a PM but got an error message stating: "The member Cruzzar cannot receive any new messages"

I thought it was something Ted Cruz might of said in the Texas primary race, but he kinda took offense ;)

I like it but noticed there's no license plate light.

RPM, the portion of this that is viewable is about power windows, not remote mirrors

Thanks, it looks like a 72 Torino may do the job?

No my weight was not included: as you know that would throw off all the calculations. The car had nothing in it except the spare tire that it came with and a full 20 gallon tank. Yes it is heavier than specs say it should be but it is completely stock, I am the original owner, the truck scales are certified, and the single weight matches the total of the axle weights. Looking at the drivers side door sill, I took a measurement from the middle of the front attaching screw measuring toward the back of the car to the balance point for an empty tank, a half tank, and a full tank. The numbers are (rounded to the nearest 1/16"): from center of screw to empty= 1-1/2". from center of screw to half tank= 2-11/16, from center of screw to full tank = 3-7/8". The balance point moves back as the fuel tank gets fuller, to offset the weight. As usual I can't insert pictures so it is in the attached Word.doc balance point.doc

Awww that's what I've always wanted to do. No more problems with the vinyl curling up or discoloring. Yours look very nice- who did the mask for you?

I did a search but didn't find anything- does anyone make a remote controlled passenger mirror for a 69...or something that can be retrofitted into the shell? Electric would be good. Thanks

sounds good, let us know how the test drive goes

There are two pieces, the top filler neck and the lower assembly which consists of the lower filler neck with the "cap insert" (the part with the flapper) pop-riveted to it. The top filler neck is attached to the chassis with 4 screws as usual, and then the lower assembly is attached to the chassis via a ground wire. That was the long answer, the short answer is yes, everything gets grounded to the chassis.

I got these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331762982170 which are 2-15/16" in diameter with a grove not quite as deep as the pinch weld. They are made of a hard rubber and may "give" under load to also contact the areas on either side of it. However, I discovered that it hits the fuel line at the drivers side rear lift point. There is a bracket very close to the jacking point for the fuel line- I wonder if I loosen the bracket if I will get enough clearance, or do I need to hack up the pad? Anyone run into this problem on a 69?

RPM- is the quote at the bottom of your posts from Ted Cruz? Not to bash my old state, but whoever said it there's a lot of truth in it: "Well... a lot has changed and Texas is the new California... "

No its symmetrical- equal arm lengths. Its a MaxJax. They redesigned it just before I bought it, and the "new improved" version has shorter arms. They probably changed vendors in China or something. I got it because I have low ceilings and I want to be able to move it out of the way if necessary. Its a compromise but it will work out OK.

that's where I'd like to pick it up from but unfortunately thats about 4" too far back (tiny little arms) like Roy below

Does this badge use adhesive or pins and clips? JD08's comment makes it sound like its adhesive. The MUSTANG badge on the back now is pins and clips (individual letters)

Since my Mach is so nose heavy and my lift has short arms**, I am going to use the pinchweld in the rear to support the car. I've read that some people use the bottom edge of the weld to support and others use the flat areas on either side. Since the edge of the weld is uneven and often has just one metal thickness sticking below the other, I can't see why anyone would try to use that surface. What have you done? ** Its the tyrannosaurus of two post lifts

Huh, interesting! So all we need to do is get a log and two stout planks to drive up onto and then we can test the calculation...don't get me started on this, it only cost $12.50 to put it on a scale, but the lumber is gonna cost much more than that. Nope, nope not gonna do it...but it would be fun.

I did the calculation correctly but in my haste I didn't write the complete formula for D2. I have edited D2 above to correctly state that it equals wheel base + D1. I use the front bumper as the reference point. The distance from there to the front wheels is 37.375 and the wheel base is 108 for a total of 145.375. So I was using the same reference point, I just didn't add "+D1" to the formula for D2. Thank you so much for catching that. For reference go to: www.bendpak.com/support/balancing-safety/

LoL, yep I always end up with negative numbers in the equation somehow

Thanks, that's just what I needed. I'm contemplating putting one on each side in front of the doors, and doing something different with the stripes. This helps so I can scale it and get it in CAD.

Wow! Sorry I couldn't resist ;)

I have a 69 Mach, 351w, FMX, PS, PB, and A/C. The concrete for my lift is long since dry and its time to install it. Since its a two post lift I wanted to be sure to have the center of balance for the Mach. Two post lifts creep me out, even if I do understand the math. I couldn't get reliable information on the web about the center of balance so I took it to a truck scale. Talk about feeling like Ant Man!! Anyway the scales are in three sections, one for the tractor, 1st trailer, and second trailer. I centered on the tractor scale and got a weight of 3426 with a full tank. I had marked a point on the door sill half way between the tires so next I positioned the car between the tractor and first trailer scales and got 2000 front and 1426 rear. This matches the gross weight. Gas weighs about 6.3 lbs/gal so with half a tank (20 gal) the rear number drops to 1363. That gives it a weight distribution of 59.5% front to 40.5% rear. Pretty nose heavy. For center of balance: W1= FRONT WEIGHT W2= REAR WEIGHT D1= DISTANCE FROM FRONT BUMPER TO CENTER FRONT WHEELS D2= WHEELBASE + D1 (W1 X D1) + (W2 X D2) = TOTAL MOMENT (2000 x 37.375) + (1363 x 145.375) = 272896.125 TM/GROSS WEIGHT= CENTER OF BALANCE BACK FROM FRONT BUMPER 272896.125/3363= 81.147 With half a tank the center of balance is 81-1/8" back from the front bumper. That's about 4" less than I originally guestimated. It gives me a little peace of mind knowing the car is at least balanced on the lift.

Ok good, what is the height of the "C"?

ColorBond paint will reportedly molecularly bond to plastic and not chip if the surface is properly prepared.

Thanks guys, it has the advantage of requiring only simple tools and doesn't take too long.