Mach1 Driver

Thanks barnett468, I was hoping you would chime-in. Doing a stroker hadn't occurred to me, but let me investigate and repost the questions I'm sure it will generate.

The fact that it cranked ruled out the neutral safety switch- all it does is allow power to the solenoid. It could be the solenoid or the starter. Check all cables and connections including grounds. It sounds like a dead battery. Once it cranks check for spark and fuel.

I would like your help deciding how to improve my Mach. There are lots of guys on this site with great depth of knowledge. I list what I think I want but I am open to your suggestions. Thanks. Currently stock 69 Mach1, 351w 2v, FMX, A/C, PS, PB. EVERTHING listed below is changing. I will probably never race it, but I want to dust most cars off the light. Mostly used for car shows and cruising. I might even turn it into a daily driver again if I can give it “sophisticated†power that is smooth, on the quite side and has great acceleration. 1. 351w _________ Will be honed just enough to clean the bores. Has 75k miles 2. Compression _________ 9.5:1 now. I wouldn't mind bumping this up as high as 10:1 but no further since we don't have knock sensors. 3. Pistons _________ 4. Edelbrock Top End Kit 2092 (except intake). Advertised as 400 hp, 412 ft-lb, at 9.5:1 compression 5. Cam 7182 hydraulic flat tappet 6. intake 290, .496 w/stock rocker Is this too much cam- will it idle rough? Compared to my LS1 it has 13% more duration but only 6-8% more lift. 7. exhaust 300, .520 w/stock rocker 8. Heads 60259 9. intake 2.020 10. exhaust 1.570 11. Intake man. 7181 7181 Performer RPM- fits nicely under hood, the recommended 7581 RPM Air Gap does not 12. Rockers ________ valve spring max lift is .600 13. TBFI FiTech 30001 4 injectors 200-600 hp 14. Air cleaner K&N filter and 7/8 drop base if needed- or would the big blue bucket give enough air? 15. Distributor MSD 8478 Shortest, smallest diameter. Let FiTech adjust the timing 16. Ignition box MSD-6A 17. Plugs ________ 18. Transmission 4R70W Lentech Street Terminator- would this shift harshly? 19. Controller ________ 20. Stall converter ________ 21. Rear End 9†Trutrac 31 spline, forged axles 22. gearing: ________ 23. Traction bars ________ Traction Masters for wheel hop? 24. Wheels Magnum 500 15x7 Speciality Wheels 25. Tires 235x60x15 Will this combo work with a Arning/Shelby Control Arm Drop? 26. Headers ________ Doug's Tri-Y's reportedly clear the bell housing but are shorties 27. Exhaust Dia. ________ Mandrel formed 28. Mufflers ________ It has a single stock Ford muffler and always had a muscle car sound. I don't want to loose that but I wouldn't want it much louder.

Here's the 69 original, see attached stripes.doc

Very nice, enjoy

Attached are pictures from my original mat. The top has a pretty good area that was folded over and not subjected to the junk thrown in the trunk. The bottom looks like felt. The original color is while/gray/black but has been discolored through contact with the original petroleum based sound deadener.

yep, wider ought to do it :)

They did that on Fantomworks to something- fortunately it wasn't a classic Mustang. Driving in LA's bumper to bumper traffic can give you the urge to use one of those. But nope it didn't look good.

get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/162034274715?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

yep, I said it wasn't appropriate

But, but that has that twang to it, you know country western, what I call horse music. Well I guess that's OK considering the forum we're on ;)

OK I'm confused. Which path does the belt follow: 1. Retractor to B, B to buckle, buckle to hard point (like the diagram) or 2. Retractor to buckle, buckle to B, B to hard point. (This one is what I think you said) or perhaps you were talking just about the placement of the retractor and hard point and the belt path is still like #1? Sorry, its just not clear to me.

Take lots of pictures from different angles. Since I can't post a picture I put it in the attachment. B-25.doc

Be safe and ask your specific lift manufacturer.

All good questions. Maxjax says to put the center of balance on the center line of the posts. I know exactly what you are saying about the position of the arms. If you look at the attachment in post 16 above you can see how they are positioned when I lift. Scroll down to the second page of the attachment to see the car on the lift. I use the sub-frame in front because the front jacking point on the pinch weld is too close the the center of balance (I don't think two post lifts were around in 69). I had to use the pinch weld in the back because that's as far as Maxjax's stubby lift arms would reach. The car lifts level and only rocks enough to "damage your calm" ;) That's a quote from Jane in Serenity of which I'm a fan. I put safety stands under each corner once its up.

yes, around the front of the base of automatic floor shifter, more or less

I have a great picture of my car in front of a B-25....only its not the Mustang, it's my 01 Vette, so I didn't think it appropriate to show here ;) That video of the Merlin in the 55 Chev is jaw dropping.

I've been wondering the same thing demon- in stock form we have the retractor at C, and no place currently to put A. The illustration below is from andoauto.com. Any pictures out there showing what you guys did? They call this three point but there are actually four mounting points.

pictures please :)

Wow that's one impressive car. Among many things I like your retractor seat belts- did you do any posts on those? My wiz kids said that imgur.com will host pictures for free. I'll PM you right after this post- thanks.

I'm 66 now Dave- bought her when I was 19. What swap meets do you go to around here? Let me know if you are in the area (and vise-versa) and we'll meet up some time :)

1. How high are the posts? In the down position the posts are 64-5/16" tall. However the hydraulic cylinder is mounted upside down with the body of the cylinder attached to the lift arm assembly. The Cylinder's shaft is attached to the base plate of the lift and as the lift rises the body of the cylinder rises with it, extending up to about 91". The roof of the car goes up to about 94.2". I have various obstacles in the way in my garage and had to put it in CAD to be certain everything fit- the lights and ducts are 96.5" from the floor and one beam is only 88" but since its at the front of back of the car (depending if it is driven onto or backed onto the lift) it still fits. 2. What is the width between the posts? 91.057" (see the Word.doc attachment) 3. What is the outside width? 100.557" (see the Word.doc attachment) 4. Is there a cross bar? No, and there is no need. The posts have wheels on them and are meant to moved to different locations and bolted down, or just moved out of the way. They are not attached to anything expect the floor. 5. MaxJax 6. It is hydraulic with an electric pump- 120vac 30A circuit. PS: I don't expect to find any rust- I've had it since it was new, it was always garaged and we lived in SoCal (basically a desert) for all but the last two years. not my thumbnails MaxJax for 69 mustang.doc

Wow thanks, there are pages and pages of posts!

+1 The P-51 was the premier fighter plane of WW2, and has a very interesting development history. The story that I was told was that the government needed new longer range, faster and more maneuverable fighters because the bombers were getting their asses kicked. They "persuaded" several aircraft companies to share their proprietary data. I believe it was North American that had the curves (graphs) for the flight surfaces, and they helped design the plane in record time, something like 90 days.

Yes, it moves the lift points. I was going to pick it up in the rear from just in front of the forward "rear spring support", but the arms are too short to do that and still keep it in balance, so in the rear I'm lifting from the rear jacking point on the pinchweld. Actually weighing the car was very useful as it shifted my balance point that I had originally calculated from the published specs forward about 4 to 5". I did my first "lift" two days ago with no problems, but two post lifts creep me out so I'm going to use "Under Hoist Adjustable Safety Stands" from Harbor Freight. They will support 2 tons each and I'll have one on each corner. I've only seen the underside of the car when I had the tires changed and was actually surprised to see how clean it was. It has 77k miles and this third set of tires has been on there about 8-10 years, so its been a while since I've looked under her skirts ;)