Mach1 Driver

mustangsunlimited.com has GT/CS side stripes Black LH 05/09Orig $246.95 F4422 01 and RH F4423 01 same price or pair F4424 01

Naw, then they'll just get tax dollars from Hillary to fight the Zika. Hillary will lie about it, loose the emails and somehow foreign money will end up in her foundation. Then Donald will build a wall but it won't keep the mosquitoes out, and he'll make them pay for it in (wait for it)..... blood money. Vicious cycle.

And you're thinking the stock GT stripe, and it extends back behind the rear wheels? The chrome is just between the wheels. If the car came that way it should look OK, but if it didn't then just the stripe.

You mean like the molding on the 69 Mach? Pictures help

Oh yeah that's better still, it begins behind the wheel wells and will fade right into your side scoops. Go for it, and post pics.

You're talking about the stripe from the 2007 California Special GT/CS? That would look really good on your car. They just don't look complete without something in those large open areas. I like the fade- that gives me some ideas. Many of the graphics companies will do custom letters/numbers.

I'm not sure why our more knowledgeable members haven't chimed-in on this: try the search feature near the top right using "pipe size". Come on guys lets give him some help.

I live on the outskirts of Atlanta and its like that. I lived in LA for almost all my life and you can always tell LA (besides the people, people everywhere): the sky is blue, if you can see the surrounding mountains they are brown, and there are palm trees. Notice in this video it is green- not something southern California has a lot of unfortunately.

I like that, how visible is it?

As my OEM compressor gets older its doing the same thing, and in summer I have to increase the idle speed to compensate. I think a rotary vane compressor will give smoother operation. Another thought is a throttle body EFI would adjust idle speed as needed for a varying loads like A/C and has lots of other good features too, like instant start, no choke, smoother idle, slightly better gas mileage, HP and torque go up about 8%, and the learning software adjusts-tunes the engine. FiTech will even do the timing if you like.

Thanks Mid, that explains why it never worked- I don't have that option. I think I've read that the EM brake light and something else are options placed somewhere below the ignition key at the bottom of the dash?

I have a Mach with the usual deluxe dash, and no tach. In the cluster with the fuel above and temp below there is a red light on the left that is the Brake Warning light. On the right is another red box that I don't believe ever worked. Anyone know what option this is for? Seat belts? Emergency brake? Ejection seat?

I assume you don't have the intermittent wiper option? The standard wiper has these wires: There is a plug to the motor with 4 wires that go to the switch: 56 blue 58 white 28 black 63 red Three additional wires come from the switch and go to: 950 white/black stripe goes to wire 296 red which goes to fuse block and a 20A fuse 763 orange/white stripe goes to wire 297 black/green stripe which goes to ignition switch A 951 green goes thru the firewall connector then to the washer pump Hope that helps

no worries, perfection takes time.

John, you might want to read this about timing: https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/ The above states that the preferred vacuum source is timed, and it was developed to optimize fuel economy and reduce emissions. That's why barnett468 always says to disconnect it, plug the line and leave it that way. I've seen his timing method several times on this site- try "Another stalling/acceleration issue", post #4.

Hey Ridge did you get the all-in-one tool worked out?

Dave, in my discussions with Chris Straub- the custom cam and engine builder, he suggested a Crane distributor because they are the only one left with a descent gear. I didn't mention this because you were intending to use an older Duraspark which would have been OK. Apparently all the other dizzy manufacturers are buying cheap gears from China, and he said they were a pile of excrement. If I wanted to use an MSD he said to get a Crane gear and machine it to fit the MSD dizzy or the MSD gear will chew-up the cam gear. He specifically mentioned MSD. In a recent post (I believe on this forum) I was reading that the gear should be a press fit to the dizzy and use a roll pin. If just the pin holds the gear, then the pin will eventually snap, as happened to the person posting. Seems like you've got to check everything and things just can't be easy... just because you lay down descent bucks doesn't mean you'll get a reliable part. Edit, it was on this forum, the post was "Pedal to the metal, now car stumbles and turns off" down around #16 is the reference to the press fit. The distributor with the broken pin was a Summit "Ready to Run" but no telling who made it for them.

Woohoo a big block! Whats the radiator width? Is the block bored oversize? Thanks

Brian how is that working out for you? What's your motor/goodies that might influence temperature?

Nice

So Dave, your motor is a 91 351w which was EFI so you'll need a different dizzy with a magnetic two wire pickup for FiTech. Since I'm not looking at the dizzy's drive end I don't really understand Rsmach1's explanation; what distributor do you think you'll get, an older Ford Duraspark?

I bought my Mach when she was new 46 years ago and she's still original. A few months after I got it some of the stripes started to curl and eventually those parts chipped out. And then I really started to dislike the reflective nature of the stripes. I think the cars look bare without stripes as an accent. There is little to no chrome so there is nothing to fill in the big voids. Looking at the 69's sister, I personally think the most attractive stripe pattern is on the 70 Grabber. Purists would say to keep the original design but I'm contemplating doing what I think would look best (at least to my eye). I may paint on non reflective Grabber stripes with a big Mach1 interrupting the stripe behind the front wheel wells. It will be unique and many people may not like it, but I'm more concerned with what is visually pleasing to my eye, and I think you should be too.

Not to beat a dead horse here (sorry for the pun) but 1969_Mach1 is correct that the solution is getting over complicated. This is a really simple circuit. Goodness knows that our 46 year old cars could all benefit from new harnesses, but IMHO that will not correct your starter problem. From the model number I can now tell that you have a Mallory distributor that uses a magnetic pickup and a separate electronic module. That changes what your ignition system needs, but it doesn't have anything to do with the starter. The starter spins outside the car, and you removed the diode so now the ignition system should be completely separate from the starting system. The apron solenoid is new and clicking when the key is in start. There should be only two wires going from the RobbMc starter to the apron solenoid, according to their instructions. One cable from starter B to the apron solenoid's large right bolt, and a wire from the starter S to the apron solenoid "I" terminal- and that's all. With the key in start, there should be around 12v from the starter S terminal to chassis and 12v from the starter B terminal to chassis. If you get that and the starter doesn't spin, then there can only be three problems: 1) the battery voltage is low as 1969_Mach1 mentions in the post above, 2) the engine ground wire is faulty, or 3) the problem is not electrical, but mechanical- something is preventing the starter from turning. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your results.

I looked but everything is for Falcon, Mercury, or Continental MarkIII- not much help

Dave, you probably already got this answer from FiTech, who told me to use a Probillet MSD with magnetic pickup, or for half the price a TSP. They also said that if you aren't using boost or nitrous there was no need for the EFI to do the timing control. Of course those are generic answers and don't address a specific engine. You'll fire your's up long before I do so I'm interested in your findings.