Mach1 Driver
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Posts posted by Mach1 Driver
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Mine are 4.25 BS, have no rubing, no fender rolling. Have Shelby drop with Grabba-trac 620's for a 65-66 un-cut which are rated at 560 lb with 3/4 poly spacer roller perches. Using GYB GR2. The rear I have Scott Drake 4.5 mid eyes with 1" blocks
Front suspension just sucks up washboard roads like nothing, same with speed bumps can hit them at 10mph suspension absorbs it. The rear is harsher over the speed bumps
Larry
Whats your wheel and tire size Larry?
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Screenshot...
FYI, IMO it's not black enough, grayer than original.
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I have an all original Black Jade that I bought in 69. Barnett's pictures are what it should look like. Mine is like the lower picture except my stripes are red, and the blackout on the hood was never shiny.
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I too did something similar, but also beefed it up using 1.5" square tube. See below pic and the following build thread: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49239-finished-my-cobra-automotive-like-70-engine-crossmember/?p=121263
Nice mod, and I notice it has the camber slot. I followed the link and as soon as I saw the part drawings I thought, yep another engineer ;) What CAD system are you using?
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I'm glad to hear you say that Ray, because I know you had some misgivings earlier. I'm sold on the FiTech and will install one on my new motor.
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beautiful drive :)
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I bought white and green LEDs on eBay for a total of $14. I tried green for the background lighting, but they were too green for my liking. I went with white for the background and green for the turn signals. Thanks for the help guys!
Matt
I like the look- very visible. Did you leave the diffusers on the back lighting?
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Prayers, I've been looking at welders too and don't usually find good things to say about Eastwood:
This from The Garage Journal, Re: Eastwood MIG Welder 135 Amp Item #12011I bought an Eastwood with the idea of "Teaching myself how to weld" I wasn't at all happy with it. It wasn't this exact model, it was a 220 Volt machine. The build quality wasn't great and performance was pretty poor. Erratic wire feed speed, ground clamp was pretty week and the gun just felt pretty cheap in my hand.
What I thought was just my inability to weld and inexperience was proven wrong when a good friend who is an experienced welder broke a bracket on his utility trailer while at my house and he attempted to use my welder to fix it. He had a hard time just geting a quality weld with it.
I will say that Eastwoods "No Hassle" return policy was exactly that. They took it back with me only saying I didn't like it.
I bought a Miller 190 and found out that you do actually get what you pay for. If you can wait until you can afford to spend more I would strongly suggest waiting and buying a higher quality welder.Many people rate these as best: Miller, Lincoln, ESAB, Hobart (and from the price its easy to say you get what you pay for).latoracing and RPM reacted to this -
I haven't tried them yet, but here's a place that works on hinges:
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If using slots just make sure the slots for a adjusting the eccentric are parallel to the slots in the LCA mounting bracket.
Nice mod! Yes I see your point about making the slots parallel. What sort of activity will your car see?
One other question- are those cookies in the top picture?
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I can never post pictures in quite the manner I would like- please see the attached Word.doc
fredoi and Xde4hewkew reacted to this -
Ordering Pertronix for my 428cj. Part number 91281 with coil 45011(0.6 ohms) . Any new comments on this setup? Or should I step it up to flamethrower II?
Just keep in mind that you are probably stressing the ignition switch when you use a lower ohm coil. A stock coil is 3.0 ohms and a stock circuit with the resistor wire at idle (550rpm) will pull 3.96 amps but that will go down as rpms increase to 0.80 amps at 5800 rpm.
A 0.6 ohm coil will pull 13.88 amps at idle without the resistor and go down to 1.89 amps at 5800rpm. Since Ford doesn't share their design data with us we can't know what the ignition switch is really rated for.
As a comparison a 0.32 ohm coil will pull a whopping 30.10 amps at idle and go down to 4.48 at 5800rpm
If you decide to use a relay to turn it on and off, use two poles in series (a double pole relay) so if one shorts the other will still function and you can turn it off.
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Looks good, and very close to a Mach. The Mustang behind the front wheel wells and the GT on the hub caps are different, and of course the stripes and no blacked out hood. Was the rear spoiler a dealer option too? Ya wanta sell that old gas pump?
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I think this article would help you:
www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/03/timing/
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Hey John, that's a nice video. I think the TA brace you asked about is a Trans-Am brace which is the plate shown in #26 and also in the video.
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That makes sense, incandescent bulbs do operate in the yellow spectrum. by the way, most people say the dimmer will not work after installing LEDs. One post said his did but most say no. An advertisement from a vendor seemed to indicate that you could still dim if you left some of the bulbs in the same circuit as incandescents. I'm guessing this has to do with the higher amperage of the bulbs vrs the LEDs, and the voltage drop across the LED/dimmer combination. Another way to solve this is to use a pulse width modulation dimmer. It hooks to the headlight switch dimmer output and turns the LEDs on and off quickly enough to make the eye see them as dimmer. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Auto-Meter-9114-LED-Lighting-Dimmer-Module,115233.html?sku=1829114&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKEAjwltC9BRDRvMfD2N66nlISJACq8591yAxx2Qcalns6a42xySKvGsXC2dfZHfOBwQ1UrI_4BhoCkVnw_wcB
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Thanks, the document is a work in progress. I've read that the diffusers get discolored or burnt from the hot bulbs over time. Apparently its a plastic cap that fits over the bulbs and I think I've found them in blue, yellow and red, but ours appear to be green- whats the deal? Is this what they look like?
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That's what I want to do also. In the picture "down" is on the right side? I'm thinking about an in tank pump. Holly makes a pump that has the regulator in the tank so there is no need for a return line. FiTech says it should work.
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Great work, love the pics- keep em coming :)
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I've been researching lights also and am a little reluctant to share this but the attached Word.doc is what I've found so far. I'm not recommending anything here, just collecting information.
You asked about the heater, it's a 1895 bulb. I didn't record the radio bulb because my original 8 track/radio gave up the ghost many many years ago. The spreadsheet should have just about everything else. BTW, I've only found one LED tail light that is street legal.
For headlights go to danielsternlighting.com and see his polarmetric polar diagrams. We could do a whole topic on headlights. For the 69s, instead of the stock system with 6 headlight filaments he recommends bulbs using only 4. If anyone is interested we could start a new topic for headlights- I have pages of emailed information from Daniel, and I haven't had time to add it to the spreadsheet yet.
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mustangsunlimited.com has GT/CS side stripes Black LH 05/09Orig $246.95 F4422 01 and RH F4423 01 same price or pair F4424 01
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Naw, then they'll just get tax dollars from Hillary to fight the Zika. Hillary will lie about it, loose the emails and somehow foreign money will end up in her foundation. Then Donald will build a wall but it won't keep the mosquitoes out, and he'll make them pay for it in (wait for it)..... blood money. Vicious cycle.
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Yes. Just like the Mach one moldings.
And you're thinking the stock GT stripe, and it extends back behind the rear wheels? The chrome is just between the wheels. If the car came that way it should look OK, but if it didn't then just the stripe.
Whats your favorite wheel for a Mach 1
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Just so I get all the vitals, is your wheel size 15x7 with a 4.25 back space??