Mach1 Driver

Many people complain about the noise of in-line pumps. That noise gets muffled when using in-tank pumps, but yes it is more expensive. The in-tank pumps require baffles to keep the gas near the intake and thus a special tank.

Thanks Moodster, I would really appreciate a look at your beam pattern. And yes his answers are imprecise and vague, but I have the advantage of being an Electrical Engineer, and we are VERY anal about testing. I'm not sure of Pete's background. What concerns me most is stray light shining up that would reflect off fog or rain and cause unsafe driving conditions. I fired off this reply to his email: Pete, Your third gen video is of 7" beams is it not, and the wall is 2-3 feet away? A typical method to adjust headlights is: Park your vehicle 25 feet from a wall, and place a piece of tape horizontally 4 feet high across the wall in front of your vehicle. Turn on the low beams. Adjust the headlights until they shine on the tape. I think the whole forum would be skeptical of something that didn't show that pattern. We're car guys, and that's how its done. To prove the value of your product you really need to perform an industry standard test with 5.75" beams, and show the pattern on low and high. Can you do that please? Your description of the amp draw is 2 amps with low and high together, at 12.1 volts. So each of the low and high LEDs are 1 amp? By the way, the alternator will no doubt be charging and the voltage is more likely to be around 14v. Using our stock harness and kick switch, two filaments are never on at the same time in one OEM PAR46 4002 outside light, and the Par46 4001 inside light only has one filament which is high. We have a total of 6 filaments, two lows and 4 highs. If my assumption that each LED draws 1 amp is correct, then only the outside beams are on in low, and this would give us 2 amps total, while 4 are on in high giving us 4 amps? Would you verify this please? This is of course much better than filament bulbs that give us totals of 7.82 amps in low and 11.72 amps on high. Thanks and we await your reply

I contacted Mustang Project via their website, and asked this about the 5.75" 69 lights: I am interested in your MP-5-XP. I had a conversation with Daniel Stern Lighting about halogen H4s. He says the H4s of any brand in the 5.75" round size are not very efficient, because with H4 bulbs in H4 lamps only 55% of the total reflector and lens area is used to collect and direct light for the low beam, because of the low beam filament shield inside the H4 bulb. Your LED design has a substantial structure for the LED, which could cause them to be less efficient than Halogen. Do you have any tests showing the pattern of the 5.75” on low and high? I am also concerned about upward stray light that causes back-dazzle in bad weather. Also, what is the current draw on low and high? I received this reply: Thanks for contacting us about our 5 3/4 inch head lights. The video you refer to shows a 7 inch lamp and housing. The maximum current draw for the 5 3/4 inch LED headlamp is 2.0 Amps at 12.1 volts for both high and low together. (Assuming this is one bulb, and each LED is 1 amp, then we would get 4.0 amps with all 4 on high?? I will clarify this with Mustang Project. OEM bulbs would give us 11.72 amps for all 4 on high and 7.82 amps for the outside lights on low). We don't have a video showing the beam pattern with our fourth generation LED lamp installed. However, we do have this video (below) showing the third generation lamp with the same reflector. The beam pattern is virtually identical the fourth gen. lamps are simply brighter and have a better heatsink design. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCQ9dH6Zlyg The LEDs compare very favorably to halogen and of course have a much longer life and substantial lower power consumption. You don't need extra wiring or relays as you do for some of the halogen. Most classic car's don't have adequate wiring to handle the increased currents of halogen lamps and eventually the headlamp switches or various connectors fail due to heating form the high halogen currents. Of course with 100,000 hour lamp life LEDs will likely last the life of your car. We don't have any measurements for the halogen lamps at hand at this time. The aim of our LED products is to produce better light that looks classic. Thus we chose a reflector which has the surface qualities of a classic car's original glass housing. A different reflector might be more efficient but that would spoil the classic look we were aiming for in this product. Let me know if you have questions. Pete Jacobs Customer Service 512-828-6417 sales@mustangproject.com

There seems to be a key word missing there. Is that fuel pump or fuel line? A GPA-4 pump will probably suffice, depending on the horsepower you are feeding. You'll need a bulkhead connector to get out of the trunk, like 2700-06-06 from Hydraulics Direct. I would use a steel 3/8 fuel line to a Summit FIF-80112 30 micron filter back near the tank, more steel line up to the engine, and Pegasus hose 3480-06-FOOT into the EFI. The FiTech has a built-in regulator, the others may or may not.

You know how the saying goes: There's no proof without pictures (of the light pattern) ;) Glad to hear you're happy with the results.

Spoken like a man with grandkids ! I usually use Silly Putty.

There was a good article a while back in Super Chevy: "We dig deep into the latest EFI Systems on the market today". It has a big chart that compares the systems, but it isn't necessarily accurate. My air conditioning bogs down the motor and I need to set the idle up in the summer, so I'm looking for a system that will automatically kick it up when the A/C clutch is engaged, instead of waiting for it to bog down and the idle speed control motor responding after the fact. FiTech says it will do that but they are fuzzy on the details. The chart says Holly won't do it, but after investigating on their forum, I find it will. Take a good look at the features you need and check them out before you jump. I kinda like the Holly Stealth system because it looks like their 4 barrel carb, but its costs a bunch more. I think you will get better tech support from Holly and their Forum than with FiTech- just my opinion. Sometimes I've gotten different answers from FiTech. With FiTech you have two choices on the fuel system 1) keep the usual tank and pump. That will feed their Fuel Command Center which will bump the pressure up and feed the EFI and have a return line back to the Command Center. One place for this on a 69/70 is in the drivers side front corner under the A/C lines, but you will loose the washer bottle. Another place is where the battery sits, but you will need to move it to the trunk. 2) The other option is a tank like Tanks Inc fuel injection tank TF28H-T and the in tank pump GPA-4. You will need a high pressure line going out, a return line coming back to the tank, and a vent. One down side is that the lines going to the pump will be on the floor of the trunk and need to be covered. Holly has made some recent rumblings that you don't need a return line on some of their systems, but I haven't followed this up sufficiently. Their hydramat system looks pretty neat.

Yeah seriously, whats up there on almost any modern car? A place for sunglasses. I think you missed the boat- all that for a couple of lights. I'm sure they give some functionality, but jeez. If you drive in the daytime you would probably be reaching up there for sunglasses... if it had it. So when is it used, when you need to read a map. That's a dying industry, now its on your smart phone. Just saying, but I guess that boat has sailed.

That makes sense, that's the same place to put the O2 sensor hole if you add EFI, which is how it measures the A/F ratio.

Don makes a good video. I've been wondering for years what the stuff was that was wrapped around the A/C hose connections on the engine side of the firewall. Now I know: its cork insulation tape. Back in the day Ford had no idea what I was talking about. Also, I wasn't aware that the "assembly manuals" differ from "shop manuals" with perspective view drawings including part numbers, that were the visual aids used on the assembly line. Just ordered the 4 available for 69 from NPD.

MTF, I wish the upper console had a pocket for sunglasses- any plans to do that?

so you just go with bare metal?

I had a conversation with a guy over on VMF who actually used the Auto Meter 9114 LED Dimmer Module ($39 at Jeggs). It ties into the light switch so when you turn the knob it adjusts the light level. To quote: "It does provide a nice range of adjustment, I am very happy with how it works and looks".

Looking at the headlights doesn't tell you anything... except oohhh shiney! What does the light pattern look like on the wall? If the light is going everywhere and not focused properly it just gets reflected back and fools your eye into thinking there is more light, but it actually impedes vision.

They made a lot of Mach1s with the 351w and FMX so maybe in the 20s for a nice example, but I don't really track the prices. It cost me around $3800 brand new. An authentic big block can bring big money on Barrett Jackson. Whatdaya think guys dollar wi$e?

Nice, mine only has a 2V. It looks to be in good shape. How long does a car like that last out in the elements in the UK?

I've read the same thing- keep a incandescent in the circuit and it will dim. Some people swear it works and others say it doesn't. Yes there are bi-directional LEDs which are really two LEDs with anodes and cathodes reversed in the same package. If they don't dim you can get a Auto Meter 9114 LED Dimmer Module which sends out pulses- the further apart the pulses the dimmer it gets. I'm guessing this is a variable square wave generator of some sort.

Nice, looks like mine except I have red stripes. What engine/trans do you have in your little beast?

If you can connect a light bulb across a battery and make it work you can figure this out. A LED is a Light Emitting Diode. Think of it as a fancy light bulb, the difference being if you hook it up backwards it won't light. Its doubtful that all of the LEDs don't work, so more than likely you aren't getting power to the LEDs. So put a light bulb across a battery. Add a switch to turn it on and off. Stick a rheostat in the line (it can be anywhere) and you can dim the bulbs. The rheostat is a variable resistor- the resistance varies as you turn the knob- more resistance, less light. Now add a fuse to protect against shorts and you have the entire circuit. The negative side of the battery is grounded. The power is connected to the positive side of the battery and goes through a series of 6 wires, various splices and the firewall plug and finally arrives at the light switch. If you need me to list all those wires and splices I can, but I would just check for power at the light switch terminal A. From there to ground you should get 12v. From terminal A it goes through the light switch, through the rheostat and out at terminal I. Check for power at terminal I with the switch on and the rheostat turned all the way up. Wire 19 blue-red connects to terminal I. This goes down to the fuse block and through a 4A fuse. Wire 19a goes from there to a splice to wire 19C to the circuit board plug. Randy listed the plugs numbers above, my diagram doesn't have them. Check for voltage at the plug. From the circuit board plug it goes to the individual lights. My wire diagram shows 8 lights via the circuit board, and they all connect via the circuit board to ground. Make sure the ground trace on the circuit board is actually grounded and you have the entire circuit.

Well excellent, real world experience that something works. Could you do us a favor and take a picture of the light pattern on the garage door or something if its convenient? Thanks

Mine didn't come with a factory overflow bottle- are you sure its factory? Do you have pictures? Barnetts post seems to indicate they didn't come with one either.

Moodster, do you have a 69 or 70? MN69Grande, the first one looks interesting but the video uses a 7", not 5-3/4". The second one is an H4- remember what I said about H4s?

If you really want to see better go to danielsternlighting.com. He has a lot of data that shows the photometry. Just throwing light out there doesn't help if it isn't focused properly, in fact it hurts because it gets reflected back and makes it harder to see. I don't think LEDs are there yet for our size light, but you can ask him, maybe things have changed in the last year. The 69s have a small 5-3/4" headlight that poses problems. For the high beams use a good quality Cubie parabolic Hi beam $79, with Flosser/Narva Rangepower+50 bulbs $15.59. For the low beams you have some options depending on how well you want to see and spend. Don't use H4s of any brand. In this size only 55% of the reflector is used to collect light for the low beam. Use Hella BiFocal Hi Low beams $139 with Flosser/Narva Rangepower+50 bulbs $15.59. This takes some rewiring since now you will only have 4 filaments instead of 6. The outboard lights are always on and use the same filament and on Hi-beams the inners are turned on too. The kick switch is jumped from low to common to keep the outside lights on with high beams. The halogens use more amps so you'll need to put in two relays and heavier wire. Stern will explain all this.

I would think that the x-brace is what stiffens-up the car. SFCs without the brace have shown to be ineffective, but I haven't seen a test with the brace. The TCP looks like a nice unit.