Mach1 Driver

There are three belts. The closest belt to the engine goes around the crank, water pump, and the alternator. The second forward goes to the crank, water pump and PS. The third goes to the crank, bottom idler, AC, and top adjustable idler.

It is recommended that any alternator over 95 amps have either a serpentine belt system or two v-belts, so as not to slip. If you change to serpentine, then you'll need to ditch the fan and go with electric cooling. Personally, I would ditch the 140A alternator and get a 95A. It should be more than enough power. Ya, its a bummer, but a case of more not being better. My bone stock 351w with PS and AC has a three groove pulley on the crank, and a two on the water pump.

Not that this helps much, but it could be this:

on the schematic its pretty simple: on the wire diagram its looks like this, where it plugs into the circuit board: Is the wire harness stock or aftermarket? Given your description, I don't think its up on the circuit board, but down at the dimmer, with wire 34 connected to low instead of Hi. Its definitely not the light switch, and is miss-wired. 34= green/black stripe, 13= red/black stripe, and 15= red/yellow stripe. This may also help, for a non-tach car its on pages 13 and 14 of this (The tach car is there too, just later on). Holler if you need more help:

I saw this today- its definitely not DOT approved, but with some messing around it may be acceptable (you don't want to blind oncoming drivers). You could have four headlights for the price of one Holley. From Capt Kent on VMF I have a 67 GT500. It uses four 5 3/4 lamps as well. I used these. I had to make a few adjustments with the stand offs on the back. It's not difficult. I threw the H4 bulbs supplied in the trash and ordered the LEDS below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253210377279?hash=item3af483bc3f:g:jNMAAOSwsi9eWsaw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The two solenoid approach is how Ford did it for a while. It prevents starter run-on after releasing the key. What happens if the starter is a permanent magnet type is that as soon as power is turned off and its still spinning it becomes a generator, back-feeding enough to keep it engaged for an annoyingly long time.

That may be a question for Dave Kindig :)

Well its obviously electrical. The starter clicks, so power is getting to the solenoid coil. Check the cables: battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to block. If its a PMGR, this is how its usually done (not my drawing). It only shows the big terminals, the wires to the smaller terminals remain the same:

Common mistake for anyone, but you may want to check the dates before answering... it was seven years ago.

Yeah I was wondering how many dents had to be removed from the roof of that Camaro. I am waiting for a reply from LizardSkin to find out if it is hydroscopic and how to remove it if repairs are required. Edit, I got a quick response: Once the coating is dry, it has to be submerged in water for 24+ hours to absorb any considerable amount water. It won’t absorb humidity or anything like that. If it does become submerged for prolonged periods, the water can damage the coating’s integrity, but it just depends on the situation and you’d have to see how the coating is holding up after a few days dry time. If it has to be removed, a grinding wheel is the easiest way to do so. If some does need to be taken off and replaced after the work is done, it can be sprayed back on to the surface as long as it is primed (for steel surfaces) and clean of any dust/debris. You can just slightly overlap with the existing coating to try to make it as seamless as possible. Hope this answers your questions, please let me know if there is anything else we can help with. Thanks so much.

Since cleanup after applying Lizardskin is with water, it must be hydroscopic and if it gets wet I would think it would promote rust, not block it. That's probably the reason they say that rust must be removed and Lizardskin applied over a protective primer. I guess the logical question is; if required, how would you remove Lizardskin? I don't see any information on how that is done.

I couldn't give you a number but your results don't seem shocking. The brake light circuit starts at the headlight switch, goes through the brake switch, through the turn signal switch, through a plug and to the brake light filament which is more than four times the load of the tail light filament. I expect less voltage there. The tail lights start at the headlight switch, and only go through one plug and as I said the filament draws less than 1/4 the amps.

From Shop Manual

from Body Illustrations

Yeah, looks like they want to pay off the R&D all at once. Well, its a start, and eventually they will come down...some.

I just saw this and haven't tried them, and they are exceedingly expensive, but get this: Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB125

this is from a post by Woodchuck;

Well lookie there! We haven't seen Mike around in a while. What's new barnett?

Don't mix songs...have Sympathy for the Devil.

Buckeye, two awesome builds! On the Mach, page 23 you mention the weather pack firewall connector. Do you know the manufacturer and or part number? None of my searches have turned up that connector as seen on page 22. All I've seen are round and awkward looking. Thanks in advance, this build has a reputation as the bible for 69s ;)

I suggest you read this for a better understanding of the circuit:

Past Time, just out of curiosity have you modified your ignition system so the coil is running at 12v instead of through the pink resistor wire? That will cause the tach to read high.

the search function isn't the best so use this link: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53388-mach-1-upholstery/?hl=upholstery

I did an "Aurora conversion" to make my original AM/8 track into AM/FM/8 track/ Blue tooth, have an AUX input, and USB input, you can talk to it and it talks back, and some other things I'm missing...like power antenna output, more power etc. Just Google "Aurora conversion" and you'll find lots of places that do it. Shop around and get references. I sent mine to a place in Prescott AZ that had it for over a year. The work was OK, but I wouldn't recommend him to anyone.

At what location is the last picture, and what are we looking at? Nicely done by the way- I like your organization.