Mach1 Driver

There ya go - the definitive answer: when he sings "When I take HER to the drags SHE really shines" he isn't talking about his girlfriends headlights, and "SHE always turns in the fastest times" isn't about his girlfriend's libido.

I've had mine 49 years and it is definitely a her. No bout a doubt it.

Someone recently posted a link to a video made by one of the cam manufacturers telling how to measure the correct pushrod length. Anyone remember?

I think Midlife would be the most help with this, but I can tell you a few things from the wire diagram: The vertical switch on the left side has 5 wires coming out of the plug and is the heater blower switch. Wire 348 (green) comes out of this plug and goes to the A/C mode switch. Wire 348A (green) then goes from the mode switch to the A/C De-icing switch, and wire 348B (green) connects to the other side of that switch and runs through several other wires to the last component in line, which is the compressor clutch solenoid (at the compressor on the engine). My manual does not identify these switches or where they are located. If I hazard a guess, it looks like the switch in the first picture has a green wire going to the heater blower switch. If so the small black switch you are holding is the a/c mode switch. As I said I don't know where that attaches. My second guess is that the red switch you are pointing to is the A/C De-icing switch. Someone on here that has there heater controls out and accessible will be of more help. Good luck.

There are two resistance wires on the car- one in the ignition and one to help drop the voltage to the gauges. You are referring to the one in the ignition circuit. To see how it works go to "How To's" on this forum, open the post "A REAL Schematic", and look at page one. The coil is normally run in series with the resistor wire. This drops the voltage to the coil and reduces the output voltage to the spark plugs- except when the engine is started. The resistor wire is bypassed by the starter solenoid when starting the car and it then runs the coil at a full 12v, which makes the engine easier to start. If you have a factory tach it is run in series with the resistor wire and coil. A Duraspark box and MSD 6A box are two different ignition systems.The Duraspark was made by Ford and used on newer cars, while MSD is owned by an independent company. To get an answer to your question it would have to be rephrased to indicate what ignition system and tach you are really using.

Nope, not if you want it to work. I always liked the MoTown sound and Martha and the Vandellas

We're getting an education- I've never seen the Aussie versions of our cars. I wonder why they wouldn't share tooling- must have been set-up as different entities

as in blasting the media because of... boy that's a stretch Mid

nice, so what media did they use?

Huh, interesting- so the baking soda will remove the paint but it isn't aggressive enough to remove rust? And if you don't remove the rust you haven't eliminated the problem, and probably can't see where it has or will create holes. I saw soda blasting done on Graveyard cars: after the blast they used a vinegar and water solution in a hand pump pressure sprayer to neutralize the soda. Then they steam cleaned it, then blow dried prior to epoxy primer.

Thanks for the pictures Ridge and latoracing. That's what the shop is describing, but not what I see on TV. Anybody blast the panels?

I had an interesting discussion with a shop today. I've never restored a car so I watch the TV shows, YouTube and have many DVDs on the topic. The DVDs were done by Craig Hopkins who has a shop close to my location. I found out today that Craig has since retired but the business goes on. I called them, AMD Installation Center in Cleveland GA, and asked if they could recommend painters and media blasting, since they don't do either. They bring in a rusted hulk, cut off the rusted panels, and send it out for sand blasting on the structure underneath that wasn't painted and the bottom. They don't blast the body panels. The media blaster applies epoxy primer. Then they use a DA on the body panels. If something has a rust hole they replace the panel with new metal, they don't patch. This is different than any of the TV shows I've seen where they blast the body panels with soda, or walnut shells or do Dustless Blasting with ground glass. How about you guys- what methods have you used? Did you blast the body panels?

I'm interested in the pattern just for curiosity sake, and if they have the approval of some organization similar to our Department Of Transportation. They are most likely halogen and have been produced by a company large enough to do proper testing- if they want large sales they have to do that. The problem with almost all of the LED headlights here is that they are made by small companies that target aftermarket sales and haven't been tested. The only one I found that was approved looked like a multifaceted bug eye that you wouldn't want.

Good grief that's 143 lbs!! Looks like a nice pup.

For some strange reason the millennials consider cars to be appliances. My 18 year old grandson is a good example. His dad bought him a car and it sat for 6 months waiting for him to get a job to support it. He didn't know how to open the hood or where to put the oil and water. Much, much different than my generation. I blame it on his mother diluting the hot rod gene.

blockquote widget Tell us what we're looking at here: motor (351 stroked to 427?), trans, headers, mufflers??, are those cutouts or anti-drone pipes?, and a 4 link in the way just to complicate things. Whose rotis are you using to hold all that weight?

Nice, what headers and motor do you have?

sigh, yeah. A lot of engineering goes into making Vettes smooth and quiet. Its integral to the design.

with resonators or straight thru mufflers- or both?

All good points. I hadn't considered the additional sound from long tube headers, and had planned on them. Who makes shorties that really fit a 351w? Cylinder pressure will be kept to 10:1. I'll have to ask Chris Straub about the cam- its already custom, since I don't want a lot of lope. He was confident he could make it smooth and quiet and over 400 hp, but I see the exhaust is definitely an issue. Chris will supply all the engine parts for my assembly. This will be fun.

Agreed- the original Ford drawings in the Osborn Chassis Assembly Manual show the same dual exhaust set-up for 1969 351 and 390 and 428 Mustangs std and GT. They ran up to 335 hp- which is 75 to 84% of my current goal. I've seen new resonators that are 2-1/2, so one possibility is to bump the pipe size up from 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 and expand it at the 3" transverse Magnaflow. If its too loud then replace the resonators with straight thru mufflers.

My single exhaust has one long muffler on the passenger side in the same location that is 19" long- probably a little longer than those, so there is plenty of room.

Thanks, noted

If they sold mandrel bent 90 degree sections in 2-3/4 that might be worth trying- I'll have to look

Lots of sound deadening is planned. I was thinking of using ceramic coated FPA headers. Yeah Chris said I should use 3" pipes, but I don't see how that would work.