Mach1 Driver

there were also some mandated add-on smog control boxes in the 70s (in some states) that had vacuum and ignition wires going to them

you call that a fingernail?

thanks for the reminder

Thanks for being patient, my post clearly shows my ignorance. Locking the front brakes negates the need for a third foot- one for all three pedals. So I take it that you press the brakes, flip the line lock switch, and hold the Rim Blow to keep the solenoid engaged. Then you can smoke the tires while in the box. However, I’m intrigued by your statement on pg22 which seems to indicate that you also use line lock to launch the car: “the one switch in the console selects the function of the Rim Blow switch. In one position it will function normally to to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the horns. In the other position it will function to allow the Rim Blow switch to control the line lock and two step rev limiter (if enabled by the other switch in the console). If the console switch is in the position to select the line lock function, an LED will light in the switch itself. Thus during normal driving i don't want to see the LED on. Very small current will pass through the small switches and the horn switch. I have two relays to pass the higher currents.” Could you show me this circuit, and whose two step did you use? I'm guessing there is a clutch switch somewhere in the circuit, and since you are carbureted, it works by retarding the timing. FYI, when making my full car schematic I measured the amperage with both horns sounding at 13.9A, so the Rim Blow switch was clearly intended to flow some current. However, I never had good luck with them. Both of mine spontaneously shorted while sitting in the parking lot and left the horns constantly blaring, so I finally gave up and used the center medallion to press a switch that I located behind it. Using a relay was a good move and should extend the life of the Rim Blow considerably.

I agree, but alas, the lad has no interest, even though its for the betterment of all mankind :p

Bob, you wouldn't have any pics of the mods to the plastic on the console wouldcha?

BD, on page 22 you mention a residual valve but I don't see it in the picture. I've read that some are built into the master cylinder and some are placed in line: These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5 psi. up to 12 psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Was this required because of line lock, and whose line lock system did you use? I'm assuming that line lock prevents flow to the rear brakes, so are they positioned: master, line lock, and residual, then wheel cylinders? I've never seen a system but it sounds like a must-have-fun toy. My paint is still original and the base paint on the hood is by far in the worst shape, because any wax I attempted to use would produce white streaks where it came in contact with the black. On page 38 your wax test on the hood black shows a definite increase in sheen. Then jnetforjt recalls a test where even primer can be made to shine with repeated applications of wax. So I was wondering how your black looks now after some years of waxing? Thanks for your build/instruction manual ;)

hey Bob, I've been going through your build and see that you added inner rockers and the convertible one piece seat pan, but it doesn't look like you had to modify the console to make it fit over that?

I agree with danno. It is just a big contactor- essentially another starter solenoid in front of your old starter solenoid. Whenever you want power to the car you have to power-up this contactor. So lets say you want to sit and listen to the radio- this thing will be on also, helping to drag the battery down. Any idea what the coil amps are? Use a switch to connect the line from the distributor to the coil to chassis. For the car to run this line must have pulsing DC (the points opening and closing) but if your switch connects it directly to chassis it can't pulse and the coil won't build up a magnetic field and fire.

Following is a Table of Contents for the Mach portion of this build BuckeyeDemons Build Table of Contents 3M Rust Fighter, door seam, pg28 alternator, DeadNutsOn, pg17 angle grinder, pg7 backspace, pg41 backup LED, pg31 balancing tires, pg15, 41 bellhousing/spacer plate, pg15 blocking, pg5 brake lines and flaring, pg22 buffing trim, pg28 buffing, pg37 calendar cover picture, pg51 caliper kit, CSRP, pg7 CalTrac pg6, 8, 45, 47 cam specs, pg6, 16 cam, pg2 car dolly, pg5 car show, pg44 carpet, pg25 cart, car, pg3, 5 cleaner/zinc, lower dash, pg10 clock cluster, pg34 clock, quartz, pg30 clutch, pg47 compressor size, pg 37 console/gauges, pg12 cowl, pg35 Dan & Dad, pg44 dash, pg11 deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg13 DFLP and 32586, pg30 door weights, loaded, pg5 drag tuning, pg45 dragstrip, pg45 drive line angles, pg1, 31 driveshaft loop, pg25 driveshaft, pg21 Dynaliner, pg9 Dynamat Extreme, pg9 Dynamat usage, pg 36 dyno testing, pg6 dyno, pg14 emblems, pg12 engine assembly pics, pg9 engine costs, pg7 engine crossmember, pg1 engine final, pg14 engine specs, pg6 engine update, pg8, 10, 11, 12 engine wire harness, pg17 engine, 1st run, pg21 engine, 418, pg8 engine, pg7 engine/trans assembly, pg16 engine/trans install, pg20 engine/trans, how to install, pg16 epoxy primer, pg39 Evapo-Rust, pg9 exhaust pics, 3”, pg30 exhaust, pg22, 24, 29, 32, 33 fan blade, pg1 fastener kits, pg44 filler neck fit, pg20 fire extinguisher positions, pg43 first car, pg10 flashers, pg30 flocking, pg12 floor support crossmember, pg8 flywheel/clutch, pg46 fold down seat, pg28 fold down seat, pg29, 32 FPA header problems, pg24 front fender extensions, pg5 fuel filler mod, pg 21 fuel filter, pg9 fuel gauge sender, pg9 fuel line mod, pg25 fuel line, pg9, 17 fuel system update, pg34 fuse terminals, pg30 gauge light tuning, pg 31 glass install, pg31 glass, pg26, 28 gotchas, pg20 guide coat, pg5, 7 gun bluing, pg6 header finish, pg5 headers, pg1 headlight/fender extensions, pg33 headliner, pg24 heads, pg6 heater box repair/paint, pg10 heater control bezel repair, pg11 height, pg43 hood paint wax test, pg38 hood trim, pg41-43 instrument regulator, pg22 Instrument Specialties, pg29 insulation, back area, pg26 insulation, pg25 interior quarter panels, pg12, 38 leaf spring addition, pg 46 leaf spring perches, pg 33 LEDs, dash, pg24, 25, 30, 32 license plates, pg24 line lock/rev limiter, pg12, 22 lug centric rims, pg15 Mastercool flaring tool set, pg23 Media blasted, car, pg1 milling intake manifold, pg13 mono-leaf springs, pg47 motor mount, pg47 mufflers, pg6 Mustang emblems, pg11 oil pan clearance, pg20 oil pan install, pg23 oil pan mod, pg23 overflow can, pg27, 28 paint booth filter, pg17 paint booth ventilation, pg13 paint booth venting, pg37 paint booth, pg5 paint colors, misc. parts, pg21 Paint Defender, pg45 paint guns, pg37 paint stripper, pg9 paint, A-pillar trim, pg25 paint, A-pillars, pg25 paint, anti-sway bar, pg6 paint, battery tray, pg6 paint, body mount locations, pg8 paint, body primer, pg5 paint, body, pg17, 18 paint, calipers, pg7 paint, Caltrac bars, pg6 paint, coil springs, pg6 paint, color test, pg3 paint, console, pg12 paint, dash outer and inner caps, pg11 paint, dash parts, pg9 paint, dash, pg10, 30 paint, doors/hood, pg14 paint, driveshaft, pg23 paint, EM brake, pg3 paint, engine and parts, pg10 paint, engine bay, pg8, 18, 19 paint, engine enamel, pg3 paint, engine, pg6, 15 paint, fan blade, pg3 paint, fiberglass panels, pg17 paint, fold down seat, pg29 paint, hood, MTF, pg41 paint, hood, pg34, 38 paint, jack, pg17 paint, leaf springs, pg6 paint, lower control arms, pg8 paint, misc. small parts, pg8 paint, outer dash trim, pg21 paint, pedal assembly, pg4, 5 paint, pinchweld, pg19 paint, radiator, pg8 paint, rear end, pg4, 21 paint, scattershield, pg7 paint, seat frame, pg17 paint, seat tracks, pg11 paint, shaker ribs, pg4 paint, shaker, pg3, 4 paint, spring perches, pg3 paint, spring stripes, pg7 paint, steering box, pg11 paint, steering column lower cover, pg21 paint, steering column wire cover, pg21 paint, steering column, pg10 paint, steering wheel trim, pg11 paint, stone deflector, base and clear, pg12 paint, strut rods, pg10 paint, trunk, pg13 paint, undercarriage, pg8, 35 paint, upper control arms, pg6 paint, wiper motor, pg9 panel gaps, pg1, 4 Parkerizing, pg4 phenolic spacer test, pg35 phosphate and oil (P&O} durability test, pg9 phosphate finish, pg4, 5 pressure plate, pg16 primer, K36, pg7 primer/blocking final, pg14 Quiet Ride Solutions, pg25 radio conversion, pg44 rear end, pg4 rear gears, pg2 rear lights, pg24 rear springs, pg6 red oxide, pg8 remetalized clock cluster, pg 29 residual valve, pg22 Rimblow Buddy cost, pg28 Rimblow/line lock, pg11 Rimblow Buddy, pg11 rubbing compound and polish, pg37, 38 rust remover, chemical, pg9 sail panels, pg26 sealer, inside cabin, pg9 seam sealer, pg35 seat belts, pg36 seat fabric, pg13 seats, pg34, 35 shaker fit, pg38 shaker trim fit, pg44 shaker, pg2, 3 sheetmetal replacement, pg1 sheetmetal thickness, pg37 shock extensions, pg47 shock tower reinforcement, pg22, 48 shocks, pg45 side scoop caulk, pg38 sleeper engine bay, pg20 Slide On Application Gel, pg42 sound deadener SF, pg9 sound deadener, inside cabin, pg9 sound deadener, pg26, 35 sound deadener, rear wheelwells, pg8 sound deadener, roof, pg8, 9 sound deadeners/sealers, trunk, pg25 sound deadening on quarters, pg38 sound test, pg37 space saver spare tire, pg43 spark plug looms, pg49 Spectrum Second Skin, pg13 splash shields, pg26 spray gun, pg12 Ssnake Oyl, pg36 stabilizer bar fitment, pg23 stance, pg26 steering impression, pg40 stripes, pg42, 43 subframe connectors, pg1 suspension install, pg19 tach mount, pg 22 tail light bulbs, pg24, 30 TFS hi port heads, pg3 TIG, pg36, 37 timing mod, pg24 tools, sheetmetal forming, pg7 trailer tie downs, pg39 trap door, pg28 trunk catch, pg23 trunk finished, pg25 trunk, pg32 upper control arms, pg6 valve covers, pg6, 17 venting, fuel tank, pg49 video, 1st time on street, pg39 video, drag, pg46 video, drive, pg40 video, driving, pg32 video, in driveway, pg31 video, rear suspension, pg46 water pump, pg9 water shield, pg38 Weatherpak connector, pg23 weight, pg47 wheel/tire combo, pg47 work table, pg37 z-bar, pg1 z-bar rework, pg23 zinc phosphate, hood hinges, pg7 zinc phosphate, hood latch, pg7

Think you've got problems? My teenager is now 48.

I like Dakota's backlighting much better than New Vintage's perimeter lighting, so I asked Dakota if they could add spun center caps. Here is the reply: Thank you for the email, unfortunately there isn’t clearance to add that accent to the VHX line. The Retrotech (RTX) series will be available around the beginning of 2019 if that is an option for you. That will mimic the stock look.

The silver/white are nice. I intend to get custom stripes that don't reflect- I've always disliked that.

I've seen some people recommend Seltec over Sanden

Midlife

For you guys interested in the New Vintage gauges, I've been in recent email communication with them, and found out a few things: 1. Their vendor for the center spun caps has flaked out on them and they are currently unable to make them. They are negotiating with a new vendor and hope to have a new source soon. 2. The layout for the two smaller outside gauges that you see in the third post above (LiLMike) can be updated from 90 degree sweeps to 150 degrees at an hourly rate: 1-2 hrs @$145/hr. This gives you a bigger scale and fixes the funky graphics on water and volts that don't quite make sense. It also has turn signals- I'm not sure if LiLMike's does or not. 3. If you like you can add information lights- the stock gauges have a Brake Warning light, and high beam indicator. I am going to add three lights to the tach: a red brake warning light, blue high beam light, and a yellow parking brake light. 4. I tried to get an image of the running Mustang and Mach1 emblem, but they are concerned about litigation and don't want to do it. 5. There are two types of lighting. LiLMike complained that the pointers weren't visible enough. He has the standard perimeter lighting. They say they can do custom backlighting which is a huge improvement, but didn't mention the cost. The first picture is #2, the second is an example of backlighting, and the last is an example of perimeter lighting- a method similar to the stock gauges. Personally I have trouble seeing the smaller pointers with perimeter lighting.

I really, really like the look too. I was all set to get Dakota Digital, but this got me thinking. I made a drawing of the changes I would like and sent a RFQ. It will be interesting to see what custom gauges will cost. I've asked for 12 changes between the four gauges. I want to add a turn signal to the right and left gauge. The water temp scale doesn't make sense and neither does the bat cond scale, so that needs to be addressed. I want to add a red brake warning light, blue high beam indicator, and yellow park brake light to the tach, light-up needles, spun center caps, and a picture of the running horse on the speedo and a Mach1 badge on the tach. I also want light green perimeter lighting like the original.

The port coming out of the head is only so big. I asked Stan Johnson at FPA (Ford Powertrain Applications) about headers for my 351W with AFR heads. he said: "We know the full 1-5/8" has shown us 515 HP. The Step is by farrrrrr our most popular header having produced the same power as our full 1-3/4" (664@7000) but with more torque than our 1-3/4" and more room!"

my neighbor across the street had a front yard full of them courtesy of this wife when he turned 40

That Chicom mill is huge by mini-mill standards. That's a cool little Bridgeport. I'm about an hour northwest of the airport in Powder Springs. As my real estate agent said, you're right on the edge of nowhere. Everything beyond me is small farms and ranches with horses, cows, goats, mules, and donkeys. One place has miniature horses, and another has at least one emu. Atlanta is supposed to be the most canopied (treed) major city in the US. My grandson who lives in Arizona said its like living in a tree maze. We see deer, raccoons, possums, armadillos, groundhogs, and there's a flock of around 11 wild turkeys that roam around our yard daily.

Very nice RPM, what kind of mill is that? Its fairly large. I'm planning on getting a mini mill and lathe from Little Machine Shop, but bigger is always better. Oh and the couch is a nice touch. Since my working garage is in the basement, I had to get a lift that wouldn't bounce the cars off the ceiling so I got a MaxJak. I had to have the concrete cut out and a new foundation poured, but the whole thing is meant to be portable. I keep one column stationary and move the other to fit the Mustang or Vette. It doesn't go up as far as I like but I have a roller seat that lets me zip around underneath the cars while sitting upright.

It depends on the ride height you want, here's the recommendations I've seen: Eaton rear springs, 1" lower mid eye ML1195. Somewhere I read that stock springs are 85 lbs/in but that doesn't jive well with the information below. These Eatons should match an Arning 1" drop in front. Also: TCP mid eye (or reverse eye for lower) 4 leaf are 165 lbs TCP LSM-M40 $289. 4-1/2 leaf =180 lbs Global West Del-a-Lum bushings and shackles You should get lots of opinions.

got any pictures of your pipes around that beast?

Nice indeed. What are the brands of outboards? I see at least one Mercury and Johnson.

I haven't done it yet but intend to use a 4R70W, which is the last of the AODs, sometimes called and AODE and electronically controlled. They got all the bugs out of the AOD and you can set the shifts with the controller. Contact Joe Persad at premiergenerator@gmail.com. Hes a nice guy that can answer all your questions. As I recall, he makes a trans support and shifter linkage.