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Mach1 Driver

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Everything posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. If that's a model it's very realistic looking... I hate to ask, but what is it?
  2. Jay, what do you mean that you can't "see any of my work"? So, it's free for the hobbyist or $500/yr full boat, and probably only a subscription- after a year it goes bye, bye. Solidworks appears to be $99/yr for the hobbyist. Their standard (low end) license is now about 4k and 1.4k/yr for maintenance (updates). I didn't check to see if that is an actual copy you can use forever, or if its really a subscription. I sure don't use it enough to pay that much. Fun stuff!
  3. We had a printer at work about 20 years ago. I don't recall the printer brand. Our Cad program was Solidworks. Many of the programs are subscription only now and crazy expensive. What do you have?
  4. Brakes?? We don't need no stinking Brakes!
  5. Just so you are aware, the previous post is ten years old.
  6. Nice, I wish I had that much height.
  7. Yes Randy I saw it and NOS is the only thing close, at $338
  8. There are a few things you probably still need. This is for a non-tach dash: tach dash: BTW, if you need to delete the flex circuit, Mid makes wires to replace it. I suspect he would be happy to supply what you need.
  9. Anyone know where to get a descent set? The ones sold by NPD were made by Precision Exhaust and they don't expect them to ever be back in stock. The problem is finding a crimp that looks OEM. The NOS are as rare as hens teeth, and really not worth the price, since the plastic covering on the cable disintegrates over time. It looks like they strip the plastic, and the crimp is machine applied like a wire terminal.
  10. I saw this yesterday on the concours site: MPULLEY-PN03.xls
  11. This is an area in which you will definitely need to do some shopping, for instance, tachman does wood grain restorations: http://www.tachman.com/fordwood.htm and this vendor has some wood grain parts: http://mustangpartsdirect.com/index.php/index.php?route=product/search&keyword=woodgrain
  12. A good rule of thumb is if there are more parts it probably won't be as reliable.
  13. The old school ignition system works fine when cared for. As long as the advance curve and timing are adjusted for your engine, I doubt you will feel any difference except in your wallet. Those are some spiffy toys though.
  14. That is interesting. As you can see from the schematic, tail lights, side markers and the license lights are all on the same circuit. Are all of those out?
  15. Do you have the flickering problem with the light switch in the first detent, known as the park position? If so this would eliminate the headlights and change the search criteria (unless you have multiple shorts). I also recommend pulling fuse #5, its a 4 amp fuse that controls all these lights: ash tray, heater, radio, 2 clock and 8 dash instrument lights. Then pull the light switch to the first detent (park) and see if any of these lights flash: front park lights, tail, side markers and license lamps. Then pull the switch all the way out and turn on the headlights and see if they cause the flashing.
  16. No, the stock headlights are incandescent, not halogen. They are called halogen because halogen gas is used, they glow brighter and use more amperage per watt than standard headlights. They give more light but since they use more power, they put stress on the 50+ year old electrical system.
  17. I put this on my Vette, and intend on installing one on the Stang too: I used a Rear View Safety RVS-776718-CT mirror and camera ($280). Its camera was used in the front (for parking curbs) with RVS-778 ($100) for the back, and has a license plate bracket so you don’t need to drill holes in the body.
  18. Ford 9" rear axles are legendary and used in all manner of street rods... and fortunately for me it came stock on my Mach1. If you want a limited slip I recommend: https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/differentials/eaton-detroit-truetrac-differential.html
  19. Yes it sounds like a short, perhaps somewhere in the headlight circuit. The circuit breakers in the light switch are auto-reset. When they cool down they turn on again. See how it reacts with high beams on. Also, I have heard of the dimmer switch wires shorting to the floor. I believe there is supposed to be an insulator under it. Below is part of the schematic, which is down in the "How To's" section. There is also the 30+ page Ford wire diagram down there if you need it. Schematics simplify the circuit and show you how it works, while wire diagrams show you how the car is actually wired with all the plugs, wire colors, etc. This is for Exterior lights. There is another page for the interior lights. Everything above the red line is the headlight circuit. If that doesn't do it, start disconnecting wires one at a time until it stops, then you'll have to follow that wire until you find the short. Since your tail lights don't work either, that involves both circuit breakers, and they should trip independently. It could be that it's such a solid short that it drags the voltage down coming into the light switch terminal B before the breaker trips. You need to find this thing before it melts some wires. I believe there are over 40 light bulbs on our cars, so this could take some digging. If you get stumped, tell us what you did and all the details- everything is a symptom.
  20. I hadn't been on Concours Mustang until Midlife mentioned it above. Here is a link to the 69/70 fastener spreadsheet, but I suspect you'll have to register to download. There are two Excel files, which are a little over 2700 rows. They are the some file, just sorted by "Location Application" for AP06 and the other is sorted by "Ford Part Number" and is PN06. I find it easiest to use Excel's "Find and Select" feature. Here is a link: https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=10790.msg149350#msg149350
  21. FYI, the wheel and tire combination in your picture look correct for a Mach. I still have the original F70-14 Goodyear Polyglas tire in the trunk with the thin white wall... of course it doesn't hold air, but hey its there. You can only get these at specialty tire places like: https://www.lucasclassictires.com/F70-14-Goodyear-CWT-350-White-Stripe-CB5K5.htm
  22. For what its worth, Google says: How much does a Ford 200 ci engine weigh? Weighed about 500 lbs with all accessories, cost @ $300.Feb 24, 2004 FYI, I've read that a 351w weighs in at 575
  23. unfortunately the photos are gone...however the bangshift article has pics
  24. OK thanks Dave, I've been in there once, over ten years ago but don't recall the switch on the evap. Come to think of it, I didn't disconnect the evap as I was after a leaky heater core. Boy that assembly is a PITA. Its like they start with that and build the car around it. Bob, there is a good video by WCCC you should watch: and this at 11:53 sure looks like a capillary tube and switch and just may be the de-icing thermostat/switch:
  25. aslanefe, my schematic is only as accurate as the Ford wire diagram that I used to backward engineered it. As I mentioned it is in down in How To's, on page 2-E33. If Henry wasn't right, then the schematic isn't either. It clearly shows a blower switch, AC mode and AC deicing switch. The wire diagram is 30+ pages and I have found obvious errors which I corrected for, but I didn't trace the circuits down component by component. My guess is that it is likely a cost saving revision and the wire diagram wasn't revised. Looking at your middle picture, I would guess that the maroon two terminal switch is the mode switch, and since it is a single switch it should't be shown as two switches in parallel, but instead it should be more clearly marked as having operating modes of "AC fresh and max". Was there a deicing switch on some other component like the evaporator at one time- who knows? There are a couple of things here that aren't obvious to me- what makes the compressor clutch open and close with temperature? I seem to remember that it cycles with cabin temperature. What does the bottom temperature lever operate- isn't that all tied to vacuum lines? If so, I don't see how it could operate the compressor clutch. Also, modern cars have the AC on with the defroster, but the cam for the mode switch (that maroon guy again) seems to indicate that it is only on in AC max or fresh? When I get to the point where all of mine is working again, I'll have to investigate, unless you can offer some additional insight.
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