Mach1 Driver

Hmm, gel coat is a polyester resin, and Sem has at least half a dozen products, but they are for plastic or vinyl, so what would you pick? 39362 Sem Soap 38343 Vinyl Prep 38353 Plastic & Leather Prep 38363 Sand Free- if type of plastic is unknown 39863 Plastic Adhesion Promoter 77723XXX Adhesion Promoter Here is a SEM video: SEM plastic paint prep

Really? Is that what we say? ;) I prefer to think that me and stangs-R-me are special.

The "LIKE" button is broken for me- how about you guys, is it working for you?

Bob, FYI, I clicked on the Like button and got this message: Sorry, there was a problem reacting to this content. I don't know if its the website or my new Win11 computer

FYI no one here or on VMF responded that they had bought an Ididit tilt column for the Ford steering wheel. It had 66 views on VMF, so apparently not too many people have bought it. I decided to get the OEM part while it was still available, and it should be delivered in about a week.

You may be right, I gotta check

Has anyone tried an Ididit column made for a Ford steering wheel yet? I think I've got a line on an OEM tilt column but it's ~$350 more

You've covered most of the bases here so I have to ask a stupid question- are your fans pushing instead of pulling?

Sorry, I'm not following here about the head gasket- could you elaborate please? I don't see any mention of your timing. Is the Sniper controlling timing or not? I agree with all of rwcstang's comments- what is your actual temperature? Electric fans pull huge amps and require and upgraded alternator. Are you running a serpentine pulley system now? How about some pictures of the radiator/fans/pulleys/shroud so we can get a better idea of your setup? FYI, according to Marti, some 70s received a 351W two barrel instead of the more common and new 351C.

the quarter panel dropoff

Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s Here are some resources: 1. Boosterdeweyexchange.com 2. Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing 3. The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service 4. Harmon Classic Brakes

I'll pick a Saturday near the end of the month...lets say the 23rd

Mal, there is a post on VMF that is about this very subject, and may interest you: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/66-ammeter-wiring-or-my-ammeter-doesn’t-work.1214659/page-3. As I mentioned, the harnesses are a little different between the 66 and 69, but the "ammeter" works the same way. In post #41 rreitz mentioned that he added 22" of 12 ga wire to his wire #37 BK/Y which connects directly to the starter solenoid front terminal on a 66. On the 66 wire #37 BK/Y is the shunt wire. The 69 is a little different and #38a Black is the shunt wire, and they added wire #38b Black to it, between it and the solenoid. This makes it more difficult to do what rreitz did. He only had to extend his #37 BK/Y by 22" and connect it back to the starter solenoid. On a 69 we would have to unwrap the harness and find the splice, cut 38a near where it connects to the splice and extend it 22" using 12ga wire. This makes the change much more difficult. Curse you wire 38b!! ;) BTW, you will still need to clean all the contacts that I previously marked in red. Below is the 69 wire diagram with the shunt 38a in blue and the dang nuisance 38b in yellow. If you try this please let us know how it works. Lots of people complain about it, and it would be nice to find a solution for the 69s. Hmmm, maybe I'll ask Midlife if he knows how long wire 38B is. Then we would know how far back we would need to unwrap the harness. Randy (Midlife) knows these harnesses like the back of his hand.

Any of them can fail, but some of the best are: Motorcraft- it is made overseas now but Ford has procedures for qualifying vendors partially based on failure rates. This is what I run. NAPA Echlin Standard Motor Products

Yeah us Yanks are very zen

Here it is in schematic form- you can actually see what its doing here:

Hey Mal, yours actually moves? ;) What we call an ammeter is actually a galvanometer, and yes it can be made to work a little better. Since it passes such a small amount of current you need to clean the connections at the "ammeter", at the flex circuit plug, at the firewall plug, and at the solenoid. Use something like Brasso in the areas marked in red. For a big improvement others have lengthened shunt wire 38A. I've heard different lengths, but adding 22" of the same gauge wire would be a starting point. They all work the same way but the harnesses change from year to year and I've not heard of someone actually doing it to a 69. What they are doing is increasing the resistance of the shunt so that more current flows through the meter instead of around it through the shunt (in blue). Other than that you would need to change it to a voltmeter as you mentioned, but I don't know of one that says "volts". I kinda remember them saying "alternator" but its early morning here and I don't want to wake people up.

it was about once a year...and then I lost count

Lets hope the site isn't just "visiting" and will stick around a while. This is getting most discouraging.

Wow, that's crazy- glad you found it.

Up at the top left, Store, Donations, and click the donate button. You need a PayPal account. If enough people donate the amount doesn't need to be large... but I lets face it, most people do not donate. When the site was down for an extended period and no one could contact Ben, I asked one of my kids to look at the site in a public- non intrusive way. They have access to a report that can be run on any site that will tell it's activity, and the site doesn't have to be up and running. She said that this site gets lots of activity and many other sites would be envious- we're talking thousands of hits. It seems to be mostly for pictures, wire diagrams. etc. People are looking for information- just like we are, but they aren't willing to pay for the knowledge gained. I'm sure Ben would be grateful for any donation. He doesn't make any money running this site- he looses money. I'm just grateful that he takes his time and money to provide this service. So guys, if you like the content and it has helped you personally, and you want it to continue, then donate based on how it has helped you.

Slow poke! I contributed on 7/1. Lets help the guy out, and get our favorite site back. Edit, I'll give you some slack- hope you're doing OK with the covid.

It sounds like we have essentially the same car, so let me share what my research shows are the problems and some solutions. I haven't done it yet, but all my research shows that Ford Powertrain Applications (FPA) are and excellent if expensive choice for headers. I looked at the Proflo4 also, and it appears to be superior to throttle body injection systems but be advised that you will have to cut a hole in your hood for any air cleaner to fit, even with a drop base. Then of course you need an air scoop over the air cleaner to clean it up aesthetically. The Edelbrock manifold for the PF4 is way too tall for the 351w in this year Mustang, so I'm resigned to using a Sniper. Then the decision of what intake manifold use- don't believe what Edelbrock tells you, the carb pad height for a stock 4V manifold is only 3.00". An Edelbrock Performer RPM 7181 will be 4.80", which would need a drop base air cleaner unless you want a hole in the hood again. Vicfreg runs this manifold with a shaker hood. A 2181 Performer manifold is 4.07" tall. This is a 4150 style with dual plane for square bore carbs. I won't bore you with the measurements and math, but this manifold with a 1.025" tall carb spacer for the PCV connection will fit with a stock air cleaner and have 0.670" clearance to the center hood scoop nuts. The bolts will have to be cut off flush with the nuts. This is with a Sniper which is 3.28" tall. Then the decision of what mufflers, fuel tank and pump- and yes they are related. If you want a car that is quiet enough to converse with your wife, then you may want a transverse muffler. The problem here is the proximity of the transverse muffler to the fuel tank. It's too hot to use a Holley non-return 12-305 pump. The Sniper doesn't measure fuel temp directly which is just asking for trouble, so you need a return line or will get vapor lock. I intend to use a Holley Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel tank. This has an internal pump, hydromat, vent, return, and sender on top of the tank, so you can keep everything away from the transverse muffler. I intend to use bulkhead connectors to run the lines from the trunk to the rear frame rails, then up the inside of Spintech subframe connectors to the front. BTW, I prefer hard lines as much of the way as possible before switching to PTFE hose, and I prefer Fragola Race-Rite Hose. People complain of the noise of the injectors firing. The Sniper uses batch firing instead of sequential firing as OEMs use. The solution to this is using a Radium Fuel Pulse Damper. Just my $.03 ;)

My thought too, if he can spare the height.

I have read that Remflex graphite header gaskets may help.