Mach1 Driver

Ivo, this is the suicide hot line calling... can I talk you down from the roof? Please step away from the edge! First, why do you want to put a GM distributor on a Ford? You profess that "I'm completely new to the electrical stuff". The new distributor and coil won't make any noticeable difference. It won't make your car run better, and frankly is probably a waste of time, money and effort. The stock OEM system was used in racing these cars back in the day, and the new parts will not improve on that. I'm an electrical engineer and know from a lifetime of experience that every step away from stock is a step in the direction of generic and unproven parts (in your application) that will lead to unintended consequences. The HEI was developed in 1974 by GM because of mandated emission policies. A 69 does not have those issues. It is true that the HEI is able to deliver more spark thanks to the electronic ignition-control module, but so what? It simply isn't needed. Send the stock distributor out to be re-curved if needed, and learn how the weights, vacuum advance, and timing affect engine performance. This can make a huge difference. Second, since you are "completely new to the electrical stuff", don't change to a one wire alternator. The alternator of choice for a true upgrade to these cars is a 3G. That's the third generation of Ford alternators, and it will charge at a lower RPM. I understand that ONE wire sounds easier to install, but it is not an improvement. Check PA Performance alternators, and keep in mind that more amperage is not necessarily better. If you go over 95 amps it will take more power to turn the alternator- more power than a single v-belt can apply. You will need to go to a dual v-belt system, or a serpentine system. The serpentine will require dumping the old fan, using electric fans, and changing all the pulleys and mounting brackets on the front of the engine. The electric fans drag a ton of power and require an even bigger alternator. This increases cost and is unneeded if you go with a moderate but true upgrade of only 95 amps, which is probably 3 times more than the stock alternator. You would be surprised how many people complain about issues with their aftermarket serpentine belt system. Yes I know that some people will say that they use a single v-belt, but PA Performance deals with the complaints on a daily basis, and insist that it should not be done. Just my unsolicited two cents.

Its still a gorgeous car Bob.

Interesting responses. I agree it looks great and I would do it before painting. The squeaks and rattles probably would annoy me, but man that car looks good with the slats, and its the only car that does. Since mine didn't come with the added rear wing, they just won't look good to me. The chin spoiler is a must! One thing that car needs is a good backup camera. I put one on my C5 and it helped immensely.

No problem, what is intuitive to me may not be to other people. Initially I made the schematic just for my use, but once I started visiting 69Stang, I decided it could be useful to other people as well. I also made one for the 66 since that year had the most cars sold and it pretty well covers the early years. Some other possibly useful stuff is parked on Google Drive for anyone's use: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing

Hi, Park is the first detent, and when it is pulled all the way out with the headlights ON. I tried to keep the abbreviations as short as possible. Looking at the switch, A is only on with the switch pulled all the way out to ON, B is on only when the switch is pulled to the first detent (park), C is on when either pulling to the first or second detents, D is turning with high dash lights CCW, or low to CW, E is turning the knob CCW all the way:

The Mustang Steve version requires welding. His method may be superior, but I'll never own the car long enough to destroy the hinges a second time. This video by Don at WCCC shows how to rebuild a Cougar or Mustang hinge. Don't buy new hinges, they are cheap knockoffs, rebuild the originals:

I haven't used one yet, but recently saw a post by the owner of NPD on VMF that complained how the dimensions from other vendors for the graphics are all over the place. Apparently a license from Ford doesn't mean there is any quality control, its just a way for Ford to keep making money. Now that I know that, I would only buy from NPD. BTW, the owner of National Parts Depot goes by 69bossnine and his name is Rick

What painting recommendations do you have Ridge?

I'm in too! With holes please.

Did you do the graphics for the switches? Spiffy!

BTW, fuse #1 also powers the flashers, radio and backup lights, so if those work, then fuse #1 is good. This is assuming you have an OEM wire harness- do you?

As I said in my previous post, power for the pump is coming from fuse #1. The first drawing is a schematic, not a wire diagram- follow the yellow, and disregard everything else, if you are only interested in the washer pump. The second drawing is a wire diagram. If you need this diagram, follow this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Schematics simplify the circuit so you can see how it works, while wire diagrams show all the plugs and wire colors and actual wire routing.

NO. 63 and 763 have nothing to do with the pump. Again: Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity (wires removed) from where wires 950 white/black stripe and 951 green connect to the wiper switch. with the knob depressed.

Push the knob in. First I would check 20A fuse #1. The key needs to be in the ON or Accy positions for power to get to fuse #1. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity (wires removed) from where wires 950 white/black stripe and 951 green connect to the wiper switch.

If he doesn't wander around, you could try StangNet- I haven't asked if its Ridge, but there is a guy on there that seems to fit his profile and goes by "Horse Sence"

Did you need to use the static mixing nozzles too? https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Adhesive-Mixing-Nozzle-Applicatior/dp/B07T72C2TB/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_1/132-0550893-9470358?pd_rd_w=P3Sd1&content-id=amzn1.sym.7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_rd_p=7f0cf323-50c6-49e3-b3f9-63546bb79c92&pf_rd_r=AP6STXHS7V859CHDNKEM&pd_rd_wg=PzTJE&pd_rd_r=a7a36a27-6fe2-4eaf-96d8-16a8018d80dc&pd_rd_i=B07T72C2TB&psc=1

edited out

From the 70 illustration manual Dave, this is from the 69 manual just for reference- I doubt there is any difference:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/seal-fuel-tank-sender/106862?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dseal%252C%2Bfuel%2Btank%2Bsending%2Bunit%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/hose-fuel-tank-filler-tank-to-pipe/150123?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dfiller%2Bneck%2Bhose%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/fuel-hose-kit-concours-gas-ssnn-and-gas/106894?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dhose%2Bfuel%2Bline%2Bto%2Bsender%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-fuel-tank-filler-to-panel/106709?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dgasket%2Bfuel%2Bfiller%2B%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969

If you ever wanted to know what Ben looks like.....

ep, as Mid says, its probably the neutral safety. Power comes from the battery, goes through the ignition switch, through the neutral safety and to the starter solenoid. If the solenoid doesn't even click, then it is either the ignition switch, the neutral safety, or the wire connections somewhere along the line. This is a schematic, not a wire diagram: Below is the exact circuit, but in wire diagram form. The schematic is intended to show how it works, and the wire diagram shows you how to wire the car. Most people find the schematic much easier to read.

From what I've read, swapping brake parts around can lead to just this kind of incompatibility problem. Many knowledgeable people prefer to only rebuild the original master cylinder- Booster Dewey (now Booster Steve) being one of the two shops I've heard of that can do so. There is so much misinformation about what replacement booster will fit and operate properly, that you really should watch the two videos that follow. Perhaps you can get the original back, or if not maybe you can purchase one that has already been rebuilt.

1. Is it a factory tach car? 2. Are you running the Pertronix at 12v or off the resistor wire? Does AAW even use a resistor wire? Part of my the problem is that since its not stock and I don't know how AAW does this stuff. If you answer those questions I can show you how Ford did it in wire diagram form and in schematic form, and that may help you. The Pertronix modules seem to run better at 12v, instead of 9v, but there is a method to do that and still run a factory tach. The factory tachs are current sensitive and raising the voltage raises the current, which makes them go wacky.

If its door glass, West Coast Classic Cougar has a good video:

You mentioned it is rewired- is it OEM style harnesses, or aftermarket with a new style fuse block, relays, etc? The reason I ask, is because if it is OEM style, then it still follows the original wire diagram, while the aftermarket harnesses do not.