Mach1 Driver

I had an Optima yellow top last for 10 years, it was on a trickle charger when the car was in the garage.

maybe this will help

A lot of these are for 69/70: https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

In case you are wondering how to get "keyed" power into the engine compartment, see below. You need power that is on in "Start and ON". The yellow shows the resistor wire going through the firewall, but I'm assuming you don't want to run another wire through the firewall. There is also a line that goes to the voltage regulator. The non-tach car looks like below. This line can't drive a coil, it's too much amperage, but you can add a relay that gets it's power directly from the battery. Note that the example on the right with the starter solenoid does not work in your case.

Did you use steel? I could do aluminum on my mini, but steel is hard going on that little machine.

aslanefe made them

I've never seen or heard of them being used on our cars but it seems like a natural. Do you care to share the dementia, aww the dimensions, if you still have them? They must be different between drums in the rear, and discs up front. The drums appear to be hub-centric so why not the wheels.

something kinda like this?

Maybe you know Woodchuck on VMF? He recommended asking the local police if he could put his in their fenced-in patrol car area. He said all he ever had to do was offer them a ride. Of course, then you have to get back to your hotel.

Anything in the driveline that isn't stock? Engine rebuilt recently? If so what balance? How old is your harmonic balancer? What trans? I've heard of guys dismounting tires and checking the balance of Magnum 500s and to see if they run true. What company made yours? The smart guys on here will have some ideas

This stuff? https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Batting-Fillings-Forms/Cushions-Pillow-Forms/Smart-Foam-Pad---2-x-22-x-22/p/36442

But the hood mounted tachometers came as a dealer option, and since I have the ammeter and oil gauge that would give me a complete set of instruments. You are probably wondering why...well I have been rethinking the direction that I want to take my old Mustang. I have another car, a much loved 2001 Corvette that is full of aging electronics. Nothing has expired yet but its living on borrowed time. It has 17 electronic modules, only 3 of which are available new, and all the rest can only be had used. As a C5 it is 22 years old now and the only "Corvette Only" repair place in the area has stopped taking the newer C6s if they have a Body Control Module issue, because they just can't get them. I am on a campaign to collect as many as I can of the used 14 modules in case I have a failure. As an electrical engineer I knew full well when I bought the car that it would probably only have a 10 year life, but now I don't want to give it up. I read that the newer cars are worse- the boards aren't protected like they are in the sealed-up modules of the slightly older cars. Its kinda funny that my 54 year old Mustang will surely out live my Corvette that is 30 years newer. I want to keep the Mustang as non-electronic as possible so when it gets passed on to it's second owner, it can still have a useful life, and not end up in a scrap yard. So that changes my plans about a Sniper EFI and Dakota Digital dash. So here is an old post by Ridge, and I'm wondering, did your hood mounted tach have a black or white dial? They came either way.

But the hood mounted tachometers came as a dealer option, and since I have the ammeter and oil gauge that would give me a complete set of instruments. You are probably wondering why...well I have been rethinking the direction that I want to take my old Mustang. I have another car, a much loved 2001 Corvette that is full of aging electronics. Nothing has expired yet but its living on borrowed time. It has 17 electronic modules, only 3 of which are available new, and all the rest can only be had used. As a C5 it is 22 years old now and the only "Corvette Only" repair place in the area has stopped taking the newer C6s if they have a Body Control Module issue, because they just can't get them. I am on a campaign to collect as many as I can of the used 14 modules in case I have a failure. As an electrical engineer I knew full well when I bought the car that it would probably only have a 10 year life, but now I don't want to give it up. I read that the newer cars are worse- the boards aren't protected like they are in the sealed-up modules of the slightly older cars. Its kinda funny that my 54 year old Mustang will surely out live my Corvette that is 30 years newer. I want to keep the Mustang as non-electronic as possible so when it gets passed on to it's second owner, it can still have a useful life, and not end up in a scrap yard. So that changes my plans about a Sniper EFI and Dakota Digital dash. So here is an old post by Ridge, and I'm wondering, did your hood mounted tach have a black or white dial? They came either way.

I'll bet it was quiet... before you started cussin'

Thanks, I see that Siless is made of butyl, so that explains that. This has a very detailed (and very very long explanation) of how ResoNix insulates a car: https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-reference-information/ This is a short and incomplete version of how they insulate a door: ResoNix CLD (Constrained Layer Dampener) is butyl and aluminum, it goes on the door skin, then ResoNix Guardian is placed on top of that for sound deadening. It is comprised of several components, including a Hydrophobic Acoustical Polyester Cloth Facing, a 1″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, a 1/8″ thick 1lb Mass Loaded Vinyl Layer, another 1/4″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, and a peel-and-stick acrylic-based adhesive backing. Then on the door panel area gets CLD again, and ResoNix Fibermat 25/45 (25mm or 45mm). It is hydrophobic and mold/mildew resistant. 25mm=0.98" compressible down to .158". I'm not sure how this would work on one of our cars, as the CLD is 0.158" thick, as is the Fibermat, for a total of 0.316". But they have a ton of products and I got tired of trying to decipher how this is done. By the time I need to do it they will have improved the products and changed everything anyway.

I've often wondered how that is done, since I would think that Dynamat would absorb water like a sponge. Is a thin piece put between the moisture barrier and the inside door panel? Or is there a type of Dynamat that is water proof like butyl or something? One type that looks very promising is to put a ResoNix barrier after their CLD.

My biggest deterrent was a new garage door. The old wood door sagged in the middle, so the ends were higher and the little critters got inside. Once I had the new door I used sticky traps to clear them out. No problem since.

Unless you found them, moved them, then forgot where you put them...then they wouldn't be in the last place you looked, they would be in the new place you put them.

I believe the 70 is the first year with the key on the column, and an interlock with the transmission (it stays in park if no key). Check with Ididit, I'll bet they have a 70 version- or find an OEM column.

It seems that at the end of the month we run out of bandwidth. He is attempting to guess how much he needs to buy. We were only down a couple of days this time, so he's getting closer.

Vic, the original map light was only turned on by the switch, or the glove box door- is that the door you are referring to? The car doors had nothing to do with it. This is a schematic, I can get you the wire diagram if you need it.

I had to share this. I was watching a video about NASA making solid state batteries for air taxies, and other vehicles... like flying cars. The rendering looks a lot like a 69. I wonder if this is Marty McFly's new ride?

Thanks, good to know.

Since the Likey button doesn't work for us special people, Thanks Bob and Ridge

I've got a 69 and the 70s are wired a little differently, BUT the only common thing between those two items I can see is that power goes to the ignition switch terminal B and leaves terminal A using wire 297 which goes to a splice. From the splice wire 297A goes to the fuse block to feed the turn signals. Wire 30 is also in the splice and feeds the gauges. The wire diagram sometimes gets the colors wrong and says 297 is a yellow wire with a green stripe but on my car its black with a green stripe. Wire 30 is violet and a resistor wire for the gauges. If the splice is bad you can't solder it because the solder won't stick the the resistor wire, it has to be stripped, cleaned and re-crimped. So it could be the ignition switch or the wire connections.