Jump to content

Mach1 Driver

Members
  • Content Count

    1,801
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    62

Posts posted by Mach1 Driver


  1. Yes 257 should have power. Yes connect to 257 and the other end to chassis- should be around 12vdc. Edit: with the key in Accy or ON

     

    image.png.e04cca939cedde96199449e255ba8753.png

    As previously stated, fuse 3 will be 30A with AC or 14A if heater only. If you don't have power on 257 (with key on), check both sides of fuse 3 (key on). If the inboard side of fuse 3 doesn't have power, check both sides of fuse 1 (key on). The object here is to ascertain if there is a loose wire on the back side of the fuse block. There is a remote possibility that ignition switch B to A is defective, but that runs lots of things and should be noticeable, especially on a Tach car.

    FYI, fuse 2 is normally only used by Cougars, as they have more "stuff" that needs power than a Mustang.


  2. Some of the older cars do have the system you describe, but 69s do not. Ours is simplicity itself.

    Probably the easiest place to start is the blower speed resistor. Visually inspect yours to see if the resistor coils are damaged. If you have an ohmmeter you can verify its operation by connecting to the terminals- where should be obvious. If you don't have a meter, just sticking a jumper wire in the back side of the plug will give test results (as described below).

    image.png.eec1dbf465629eea02c809a25a84e1f6.png

     

    This shows the heater circuit in its simplest form as a schematic. Its good that the motor works, so finding the problem should be easier. The circuit driving the motor is identical in cars without air conditioning. Heater only cars just don't use the lower half of the schematic. 

    image.thumb.png.526920288261c9257ac04ff1cf6fecd0.png

    Above the red line traces the path for Low. Turn the key to Accessory or ON. You can see that it goes through both resistors in low, only the right resistor in medium, and goes directly to the motor in high. Does it work at any speed? If not the switch or fuse 3 could be bad. If it works on HI its one of the resistors or the switch. If it works on medium but not low, its the left resistor or switch. The diagram below is in the How To's section, and will tell you which resistor to jumper. This is page 2-E33 (just look for page 33). Oh, it only uses a 14 amp fuse if you only have the heater, but a 30 amp fuse if you have AC.

    image.thumb.png.6da1a12c1bbff6fc520c5f2b6c7b863a.png 

    Turn the ignition to ON or Accy, turn the heater switch to LOW. If it doesn't work, jumper 268 red to 269 blue (that's the left resistor on the schematic). If that doesn't work, jumper 269 blue to 270 black (that's the right resistor on the schematic). If that doesn't work jump 268 red to 270 black and that will bypass both resistors.

    If you still can't figure it out, tell us your symptoms.


  3. Yeah I've been there and done that, as you know. Time helps, but more than anything, when the time is right for you, find another person to share your life with. Life can be sweet again; maybe bitter-sweet, but sweet.

    I still think you should try the speed/gear calculator. If I remember correctly my ol' Vette (2001) when in OD is around 2k between 60 and 65.


  4. The world is surely fortunate that not everyone thinks like an engineer. Several years after my first wife's passing I went on E-Harmony and found my current wife. When she read my bio and it said I was an engineer, she immediately turned the computer off, and didn't boot it up again for two days. Her first husband was an engineer and she didn't want a repeat performance... but fortunately for me, she decided to give me a chance to prove that I was more than just an engineer ;)


  5. Yes its correct, the Sniper instructions say the blue and green wires from the 10 pin plug go low (go negative) when turned on. These wires go to 85 which is one side of the relay coil, and 86 is the other side which goes to battery +. That operates the relay and 30 to 87 closes applying battery + to the fans, the other side of which goes to chassis.


  6. This is old pricing, but will give you an idea:

    Lentech Automatics

     Street Bruiser AODE/4R70W

    Economical Performer

    Part# 7000-4R70-BRS  $2295.00
    Rated to 500 h.p.
    Overview: The Street Cruiser is an improved alternative to a stock replacement transmission. It is designed to provide much better shift quality, control and reliability, and it carries Lentech’s famous Lifetime Ltd. Warranty!.

    Economical Performer
    Part# 7000-4R70-BRS
    Rated to 500 h.p.
    Overview: The Street Cruiser is an improved alternative to a stock replacement transmission. It is designed to provide much better shift quality, control and reliability, and it carries Lentech's famous Lifetime Ltd. Warranty!.
    Specifications
    · Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
    · Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
    · Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
    · 6 or 7 high-energy 3-4 clutches
    · 3 or 4 OEM quality intermediate clutches
    · 5 OEM quality forward clutches
    · 3 or 4 OEM reverse clutches
    · New 2" O/D band
    · All new seals, gaskets, and filter
    · New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
    · New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
    · New low one-way clutch
    · Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting
    · New oil pan and bolts


    Available Convertors
    · 12" ( lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-12LU
    · 9.5" (lockup) Part# 7902-CONV-95LU
    Available Upgrades
    Lentech Cast, Aluminum Pan Part# 7A194-AOD-CST

     

    Street Terminator AODE/4R70W

    Part# 7000-4R70-STT  $2795.00
    Rated to 700 hp.
    Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly Enthusiast's Choice Part# 7000-4R70-STTRated to 700 hp.
    Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.

    Specifications
    · Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
    · Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
    · Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
    · 7 "high energy" 3-4 clutches
    · 4 intermediate clutches
    · 5 or 6 "high energy" forward clutches
    · 3 or 4 reverse clutches
    · New 2" High energy O/D band
    · All new seals, gaskets, and filter
    · New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
    · New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
    · Billet midshaft
    · Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting and increased base operating pressure to increase longevity.
    · New oil pan and bolts
    · Re-assembled with all critical clearances adjusted for high performance use. recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.

    Enthusiast's Choice

    Part# 7000-4R70-STT

    Rated to 700 hp.
    Overview: Street Terminator AODE/4R70W transmissions maintain fully automatic shifting for street ability. They are recommended for most performance engines that may see street usage. Each unit receives several key internal modifications and upgrades for increased durability. It is highly recommended that higher than stock axle ratio be installed (3.55 or higher) in conjunction with this transmission model. Auxiliary transmission oil coolers are also highly recommended.

    Specifications
    · Quality selected core, completely stripped, all major components washed and inspected for excessive wear
    · Clutch cylinders modified for extra clutches
    · Numerous modifications in strategic areas for efficient clutch operation and life
    · 7 "high energy" 3-4 clutches
    · 4 intermediate clutches
    · 5 or 6 "high energy" forward clutches
    · 3 or 4 reverse clutches
    · New 2" High energy O/D band
    · All new seals, gaskets, and filter
    · New bushings and thrustwasher (where needed)
    · New intermediate one-way clutch and spiral lock ring
    · Billet midshaft
    · Lentech recalibrated Valve Body with automatic shifting and increased base operating pressure to increase longevity.
    · New oil pan and bolts
    · Re-assembled with all critical clearances adjusted for high performance use.

    · Cast gray finish
    · All complete units are dyno tested to insure a quality product
    · Lifetime LTD warranty

    Available Convertors
    10" ( lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-10LU
    9.5" (lockup ) Part# 7902-CONV-95LU

    Available Upgrades
    Transbrake valvebody upgrade Part#7000-OPT-STTB
     

     

    Strip Terminator AODE/4R70W

    For the EXTREME enthusiast  $3695.00
    Proven to 1500hp/1000lb/ft

    The Strip Terminator AODE/4R70W transmission is in a new class all by itself. A manual shift, fixed pressure valvebody is standard fare. (Autoshift available) Incorporated into this valvebody is Lentech’s famous Reverse/Third technology for huge torque capacity. It is recommended for wild performance vehicles that see limited street usage.


  7. I have the FMX also, but when I looked at the Gear Vendor, there wasn't an automatic mode. Do you know how they accomplish that? Something to think about is the need to make the driveshaft significantly shorter and how that affects driveline angles and vibrations. 

    Instead of an AOD I intend to go with a 4R70W, which is the last version of the AOD that improved all its shortcomings. It requires an electronic transmission control and, if you're handy, it is a bolt-in conversion, but the driveshaft does need to be shortened somewhat. There is a guy that makes transmission supports and a shifter mod that allows the use of the stock shifter. If you're interested I'll find his contact information.

    Heres a thread on the 4R70W;

    https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1965-4r70w-conversion-complete-how-to-pic-heavy.1119498/page-8


  8. Mine is still all original and matches the color of the plastic trim on the sides (dark charcoal or black). It has a pebbly texture and I always thought it was perhaps cardboard as there is one little spot where the side trim was rubbed it, exposing what appears to be the cardboard material underneath.

     


  9. image.thumb.png.01eb9722cfe9baee7a44c00a94b377a6.png

    #37 feeds fuses 6 and 7, and 7 works. It sounds like the output side of fuse 6 has a bad connection in the fuse clip, or possibly the connection to wires 40 and 54.

    Do you have power on fuse 5 if you turn on the light switch? This feeds a string of lights...dash, radio, heater, clock and ash tray.


  10. That's a pretty coupe! BTW, power seats and windows weren't available on the old Mustangs.

    You will find a complete wire diagram for 69s in the "How Tos" section, its titled 1969 Mustang Wire Diagram... I wasn't very imaginative with the title. 

    I used this diagram to backward engineer and make the only schematic for a classic Mustang. Schematics are intended to show "how it works" and is much simplified from a wire diagram. A diagram has all the wire routing, colors, splices, and plugs, etc. They both have their uses, but as an electrical engineer I would be lost without a schematic.

    The schematic is up at the top of the same "How Tos" section and is titled "A Real Schematic".

    Fire away with any questions. Another important resource we have here is a member who owns a harness restoration business. He goes by "Midlife", and without a doubt he knows more about the harnesses in our classics than anyone else on the planet.

    Personally I wouldn't use one of those wire kits with the new types of fuses and relays. You can get most of your harnesses restored if you like, or buy all new OEM equivalents.  That way when you have problems (as most people do), we can reference a Ford diagram. If you use the kit, then neither Midlife or I can help you, since we have no details about how the kits are wired.

×
×
  • Create New...