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Posts posted by Mach1 Driver
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On this forum go to the "How to's" section and look at the post "Fixing the Instrument Panel". It will tell you everything you need to know.
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Like you I am still collecting information on this subject but thought I would share what I've found. A prominent member on Stangfix with the handle of Horseplay uses this: https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-FasTrax-Camber-13-17in/dp/B000PG6OW2
Any commercially available turn plates are ridiculously expensive and will probably require one of the home-brew methods with layers of plastic. I'm looking forward to see what the other guys have tried.
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5 hours ago, aslanefe said:Do you mean NPD item # 8242-4B :)
Whoa, I didn't see those! Thank you.
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8 hours ago, TexasEd said:Here is a stainless hood trim at NPD. I did not look to see if they have the rest of the grill surround but it could be an option.
Edit: Found the stainless grille surround
Stone guard/lower radiator surround:
Thanks, that's a good find- now we only need the sides 8242-4A and 8243-4A to match. Those would be tough shapes to tool in stainless, but its no problem to chrome the aluminum.
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It always bugged me that the trim around the grill is bright anodized and obviously different than the rest of the bright work. I've always wanted to have it nickel chrome electroplated. I think I'll look into that.
shelbyshelby reacted to this -
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I have no direct knowledge of liskey measurements, but if your floor is anything like mine, it is very uneven. You may want to think about using a cheap auto-leveling laser for much better accuracy: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+use+a+lazer+level+to+level+a+car+chassis#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:4f8f3d47,vid:NL4KyLA6mJk
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1 hour ago, TexasEd said:Yeah I wonder if it would look horrible with 2 for drivers and leave halogens for high beams
Good point, I'll bet you could only tell when they are turned on, and it would just be less light. They have a couple of frequency ranges- one is called classic white at 3000k, and the other is modern white at 5700k. Halogen bulbs range from 3200k to 4300k.
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Hey Bob. Yes I've seen them and the above video (good video by the way). The Holley's have been around for a while now. Hands down, they are the best LED headlight currently on the market. It is DOT approved and obviously they have put big bucks into developing the things. Unfortunately they appear to want to recoup the development dollars in a very short time- hence the outrageous cost. Recently I've seen the price drop by 10%, so all four would go for around $684. You could probably talk yourself into buying them if you used the 7-inchers (thus only needing two) - but we need four of the little suckers for the 69! You 70s guys are in luck though. Cost and the plastic lenses are the only drawbacks I see to them. At this time, I think it still makes more sense to go with DOT approved Sylvania halogens and relays, but I keep watching the prices. At least the option is out there if you Just Have To Have LEDs.
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A shakerless hood looses the cool factor
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The conversion for a Miata is pretty spiffy. One thing I would check is the speaker resistance, and if it is compatible with YOUR radio. Too little resistance would blow the amp.
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32 minutes ago, latoracing said:Very simple, very easy :)
Easy for you to say. You're the guy with an avatar showing two razor blades welded edge to edge! You do amazing work. Mere mortals have to work at it a bit harder.
Machspeed and latoracing reacted to this -
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The doubled-over seams in the bottom and sides of the doors are obviously a concern for rust accumulation. The best solution I’ve seen is by a well known character named Woodchuck on Vintage Mustang Forum. Woodchuck has apparently done this many times, and what he suggests is building a wood tub, line it with a thick plastic tarp, support the door off the bottom, fill it with water, add 1/2 cup of washing soda (Na₂CO₃), then run some DC current though it for a couple of days. He uses an old computer power supply, but a battery charger should work just as well. Note: here is a link to Woodchuck's post for more details: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-way-to-arrest-rust-inside-doors.1197220/#post-10579417
Of further concern is that paint will not stick to any metal treated with Soda. According to the popular paint company SPI, you must first neutralize soda by the following technique stated on the SPI Technical Data Sheet: Thoroughly wash every square inch of the affected metal with Dawn original formula, Purple Power Degreaser, or Simple Green mixed with water and clean towel. Wash off with clean water then dry.
According to Barry (who owns SPI and is the formulating chemist) on neutralizing soda: “What some of the soda blasters are now doing is washing the car with Holdtight 2, so that neutralizing and changing the PH of the metal, at $150 a gallon you are paying for it but it does save some work.”
Woodchuck then uses Mastercoat Silver primer to seal the area inside the door so oxygen can’t get in and allow more rust. I’m a believer in Mastercoat. This stuff will last 15 years on bridges over salt water. I have used it on some sheet metal light boxes I built that are outside in hot, humid, rainy, cold and snowing Georgia weather year round with no sign of rust.
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Keep spreading the word for early detection. My daughter-in-law's father recently found out that he has terminal prostate cancer. He was the sort that rarely went to a doctor. He's in his mid 70s and this probably could have been prevented. Now its chemo and radiation just to prolong his life. Its taking quite a toll on their whole family.
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You can get and send messages using the little letter symbol up at the top right. You would have to give someone your actual email address to communicate that way, but since it isn't secure you probably don't want to be sharing it with the world. The message symbol above will allow you to message within the confines of the 69Stang site and stay safe.
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302 power steering belt and radiator hose woes
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
this may help:
CCF03262023.pdf