Mach1 Driver
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Posts posted by Mach1 Driver
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2 hours ago, TexasEd said:OK, that's what I thought you meant. Before I disconnect the square connector from the fuse box I'm going to try continuity from the flasher module to the plugs at the front of the car. I can use the tail lights to see if I'm correct. But at this point I'm already 90% sure I have a problem in that firewall plug to fuse box. Need to just bite the bullet just reluctant because everything else works and so many pins go through it.
Yeah, and its in such a convenient location (NOT). Yes that should work; disconnect the battery, turn signal on, unplug the front light and connect to the correct wire and the output side of the flasher with your ohmmeter, and you should get continuity if all is well.
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Guys, it would be easier to discuss on VMF where Ed already has a post going:
The meaning may become obvious with pictures. That's why I didn't bother posting here.
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On 12/30/2024 at 12:36 AM, Print Dad said:Let’s. Hope for a great new year. This has been a tough year for my wife.
chemo treatments keep her spirits down.pray for all that need help
thanks. Print dAdIndeed I did. May you and yours have a brighter new year.
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36 minutes ago, rwcstang said:Its a pulley puller:
to properly align the belts, I also use this one: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dayco-belt-diagnostic-kit-two-piece-laser-alignment-tool-with-belt-wear-identifier-93874/10030803-p?product_channel=local&store=9892
Thanks, that looks like a cool tool:
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57 minutes ago, rwcstang said:you just need to a pulley alignment tool to adjust the pump pulley and align the drive belt.
What tool in particular are you referring to? Belt tension?
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Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9".
Len69Coupe reacted to this -
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Oh yeah, that was the article I found to increase the sensitivity of the ammeter. I still intend to play with that and let you all know how that worked. In the article he doesn't mention to first clean the contacts in the firewall plug, as is mentioned in other articles. Our cars also have the plug going to the flex circuit added in there. His method was to increase the length of the shunt (wire 38A in our cars), thereby increasing its resistance and forcing more current through the ammeter. The theory is solid and should work with no problem (easy for me to say), and I'll let you know the details... just don't hold your breath ;)
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I had a wooden double garage door that sagged in the middle and was high enough at the ends to let the little buggers to get in. I replaced it with a steel door 3-5 years ago and haven't had a problem since. I used glue traps when I had the problem.
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19 hours ago, Flanders said:reviving this thread a bit --
is there such a thing as a smaller booster? With my intake and valve covers, I feel I don't have a lot of room for a big booster.
Probably the most common complaint. Personally I wouldn't mess with what I consider the most important system on the car. You could go with manual brakes, but I would stick with the combination of parts that Henry's engineers selected. I have low expectations for aftermarket parts.
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I'm pretty particular and don't like everything even my favorite groups do, but its mostly rock. This is from my USB playlist:
America Beach Boys Beatles Bobby Darin Booker T & the MGs Creedence Clearwater Criss Cross Cyndi Lauper Del Shannon Doors Eagles Elton John Enya Eurythemics Firefall Fleetwood Mac Gerry & the Pacemakers Journey Kansas Looking Glass Louis Armstrong Procol Harum Redbone Rolling Stones Simon & Garfunkel Spandau Ballet Tears for Fears The Animals The Cars The Fleetwoods The Moody Blues The Police -
I Googled the name- is this the correct machine?
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20 hours ago, 69NC said:For bits in my machine shop I buy chicago latrobe. US made and fantastic quality. Expensive but you cry once, and are good. I also have a good quality sharpener.
Do you mind sharing what sharpener you use?
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1 hour ago, kblagron said:Is there any chance that VMF and 1969Stang could merge? Maybe have a separate forum for 69-70 and move everything that is here over to that site. I love both places, but I think the bandwidth outages and spam has caused a lot of people to go elsewhere.
That is up to the owners of both sites, and the owner here is almost always absent and darn near impossible to get ahold of, so don't hold your breathe.
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Do a search on NPDs site for "heater hose fitting" and a bunch will pop up.
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Dang, if you find him or a substitute please let us know.
I've got a full set of drills (number and letter) from Little Machine Shop, but they're low quality and a very big disappointment. They have lousy cutting tips and worst of all, don't run true. I just replaced one of them with the following. It appears to be much better quality, but is still Chinese and I haven't used it yet. I'll let you know when I chuck one of these up in the mill. It's sold on Amazon: IVY Classic 01553 No. 53 Wire Gauge Drill Bit, M2 High-Speed Steel, 135-Degree Split Point, 1/Card
Edit: it easily went through 0.187" mild steel and ran true, so its a big improvement over the LMS bits
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I just got a Polar Air by Eaton. The dang things cost about twice what they did 5 years ago. The thing I like about this one is that the 2 Stage units turn about half the speed of single stage units and are quieter. I haven't got it installed yet, but am working on it. What they don't tell you anywhere in the instructions is that any wire run over 50 feet has to be 6ga. They put a sticker on the tank. Since it isn't magnetic start they apparently get a low voltage start condition if the wire isn't big enough, frying the motor. This thing is a monster... I'd show you pictures but....
And since we all love a 56 F100, here's a pic of my neighbor's new purchase.
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I posted some pictures in your post on VMF. There is an insulator that goes on top of the metal housing before the flex circuit is attached.
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Sorry, I've never seen that bezel. I have a Mach1 and they all have the deluxe interior with round clock. You might try West Coast Classic Cougar.
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One of the guys on VMF (cougar70) says his car with 3G and alternator light has a very faint light when the key is on and the engine off. He wants it to be brighter. He didn't use the PA Performance converter, so he doesn't have the diodes, but I don't see how that would help. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I'm thinking that the old 15 ohm resistor and 1895 bulb combination aren't optimized for the 3Gs internal regulator. My car doesn't have the alternator light (its the ammeter version) so I haven't seen this problem and my car isn't an ideal candidate to experiment on...but that wouldn't stop me ;)
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We have seen many versions of how to do this over the years. I have compiled as much of that information into one document as possible, covering 1965-70.
Every year except 66 has two types of charging systems; one with an ammeter, and one with an alternator charging light. The 66 only has an ammeter.
In this document there are two charging system wire diagrams for every type; the first diagram shows the stock wiring with a 1G alternator. The second diagram shows the 3G alternator and the new wiring. This way you can compare the two and make sure you get it right.
Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link below, you have free access to all the documents in this directory: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
Look for “3G Alternator swap onto a classic Mustang”
The document is 18 pages, and I would have included the “Contents” page below IF PICTURES WORKED.
Dynacorn quarters
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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So far we have responses from TX, S.C., and southern California. I lived a few hours drive from Ridge in southern California for most of my life and now I'm in Georgia, a few hours from Dave in S.C.
I was concerned how badly my car and tools started rusting after a few years in Georgia- and they were all kept inside and "dry". The humidity is MUCH higher here, and keeping things inside in a dry place really didn't help. If it were me, and living here in the high humidity, I would sand and epoxy them as soon as possible, just to keep the rust down and probably save myself more work later.
I guess it depends on where you live- is it 20-30% relative humidity like where Ridge lives, or 70-90% in the summer like where Dave and I live on the east coast.