Mach1 Driver

This is ridiculous; this morning every section of the forum had a post in Cyrillic!

If it is a speed control harness, you might try West Coast Classic Cougar. The Cougar is an optioned-out Mustang, but I think I would go aftermarket on that option and get something new. Electronics don't last much over 20 years.

Many people suggest using soldering irons. This is NPDs kit. The screws with the cone shaped washers are for the bottom of the door panel where the carpet is. I'm not sure what the pop rivets are for- someone here will know. https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-door-panel/104260?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bpanel%2Bfasteners%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 ACC Auto Custom Carpet gets the highest marks, mass backed. The Essex cut pile is thick, dense and plush and the top of their line. When last I checked it was 46% cheaper at Rock Auto.

In case anyone is interested in seeing the difference between zinc phosphate and manganese phosphate, see below. This was done following Palmetto's instructions, part of which is to sandblast within an hour of application. Since I had three media grits I did one each for zinc and one each for manganese (total of 6). They were Garnet 110/120, Glass abrasive 75, and Glass bead 9. You shouldn't use glass bead because it polishes the surface and you want the surface to be rough so it will hold more oil. It is the oil that gives the rust protection, not the phosphates. Anyway, there was no discernable difference "visually" between the different grits on the test samples. Zinc is on the left and manganese on the right

Nice, just out of curiosity, how thick are the plates?

Rock-out Ridge! I believe it was Eric Carmen in 1975.

To further answer your question, the stator is not protected by anything on my alternator (non-tach car), but it is hot, and has a rather nasty little sawtooth wave that is around 7v. This terminal is also used to power an electric choke when an aftermarket Holley carburetor is added.

I saw the need and made the documents- I'm an electrical engineer. You may be interested in the alternator document or others I put on Google Drive for anyone to download: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Most forums don't allow uploading of large files, so I parked several useful documents on Google Drive. Using the link above, you have free access to all the documents in this directory.

There are plugs that pop into the holes to cover the nuts- not shown here, but mentioned:

There is no stator connection if you don't have a tach. In the non-tach version they added an ammeter and oil gauge, and deleted the tach an alternator warning light: Below is the tach version that uses a warning light to tell if its charging instead of an ammeter- when they added the tach there wasn't room for the ammeter and oil pressure gauges, so they just used a light to tell if it was charging (and added a low oil pressure light also). The alternator warning light actually works better than the ammeter which hardly ever shows anything:

The like button doesn't like me :( But I like that Ridge

Bilstein's are gas shocks. I found this video interesting- Mike Eaton who makes springs talks about springs and shocks. He mentions shocks at around 5:20 and 17:00, but the whole thing is worth viewing:

Well dang, feel better or we'll have'ta start calling you Really Painful Molar, or Really Painful Metatarsal. ;(

Nice find Ridge!

Thanks Ed

Ed, that "before shot" is just stunning and I'm sure you'll get her looking even better. I appreciate your detailed description of the suspension, but I think there is still one thing left out; you have KYB Front shocks, and Grab-A-Track rear shocks, but are they gas shocks or hydraulic? As you probably know, gas shocks expand and actually lift the car some and change the spring rate, while hydraulics don't, and hydraulics are actually what our cars were designed for. So which do you have? I'm not trying to spark a debate about gas/hydraulic, I'd just like to know what contributed to the look of your car, cause that is just about perfect. I haven't decided if I want bigger tires in the rear or not. The smaller front tires sometimes look a little undersize when in the rear, but Weekend Cruiser's Mickey's look a little oversize. Maybe that's just because I prefer raised white letters and they look a little bear without them to my eye, but both are very good looking cars.

The manual calls it a dimmer switch retainer. There were no hits on NPD. You should try WCCC too. Here is one on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305027497117

Don't forget the plastic insulator under the switch, per Brian's photo. The connector often gets mashed down and shorts to the floor without it.

Hi 69428RCJ, We have a member who has been absent for some time now, but per barnett468 who has restored 50+ of these cars, the largest wheel in front for a 69 is a 15x7 with a 4.25 back space, while the widest tire that won't hit under some conditions is a P235/60R15. There are multiple members that run this wheel/tire combination, and this will also work with the Arning drop. Barnett recommended Specialty Wheels.

Dave, see my post above ^^^

This site has been down so many times that the things saved to the site don't always work. You can get the factory wire diagram that shows how everything is wired, and my schematic will show how it works. For both go to my Google drive and download anything you like: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing

Don't forget the FMX, that's what came behind the 351W in my Mach. They are strong and reliable and should have the same bolt pattern as a 302, since AODs fit all these blocks, the FMX should too. I'd stick a 4R70W on there, as its the last and most perfected version of the AOD- then you get overdrive.

These kits you are contemplating are from aftermarket manufacturers. Much of it will not fit without problems. The further you venture from a stock 69, they more problems you will encounter. Also, Ford build parts from newer models will not just drop-in and operate trouble free- they weren't designed for your car. You see a number of Coyote Mustangs for sale, and I believe it is because they are not satisfied with the end result. You end up with odd combinations that just don't work well together. These cars gave hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles. The technology is 50+ years old, but it still works fine. If you want to add an EFI, fine- but stick with an engine that was originally offered in the car; a six or SBF, or BB of the era. Adding aluminum heads is an easy way to increase horsepower. A Coyote just doesn't fit well in there in either width or height. You would need to get rid of the shock towers and revamp the entire front suspension. You can upgrade to an AOD or 4R70W trans from newer Fords because they will bolt right up to a SBF, but even then it will need an aftermarket trans support and shortened drive shaft. This is a fairly easy upgrade and well worth it. The 4R70W will require an electronic transmission control, but the 4R70W is the last of the AOD line, and has all the problems fixed. Expect a custom exhaust, since the overdrive transmissions are wider than their predecessors. The linkage is different but can be modified to work well. There are a huge number of carburetors available but be cautious what you stick on top of the engine as the 69 does not have a lot of clearance to the hood. These new carbs are the same height as the old Ford carbs, but aftermarket intake manifolds are all taller. Same goes with EFI, it isn't any taller but watch the manifold. For EFI you need a new fuel delivery system: tank, pump, fuel and return lines, and regulator to make it work. Don't expect anything electronic to last forever (like an EFI). Electronics aren't warrantied for longer than 10 years and equivalent parts are no longer made or supported in as few as 5 years. Heck, we hear all the time that brand new parts don't work. To do all these things you need to be mechanically inclined. It will take determination and perseverance to get it all to work together reliably. You become the engineer. I'm not trying to discourage you, but you need to proceed with your eyes wide open. Advice is available, but you are about to go down a path that most people can not and should not travel. In the end it will be worth it. Are you from Georgia? I'm northwest of Atlanta.

I added the calculator to my Google Drive folder, go up to post #1 to get the link.

I had an Optima yellow top last for 10 years, it was on a trickle charger when the car was in the garage.