Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Bill_C

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/13/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Upstate New York

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  1. Thanks jatkinson. That's what I thought. Looking at the grille I don't think the entire thing is painted though. It looks like there is a recess that it gets painted up to and the the rest is the black plastic. Looks like a lot of masking is in the near future.
  2. bigmal, I agree with you. The part that gets me the most is you spend a decent amount of money for someone to do a job and everything is fine at first. In my case the problems started popping up almost six months later. Paint started bubbling and seams with way too much filler started cracking. As with you I've learned a lot too. I'm starting to tackle things I would not have done on my first Mustang. This past week I was all set to ship my car back to another body shop to repair my A-pillar but decided to go at it myself. Unfortunately I found more rust that needs attention.
  3. Speaking of the Argent paint. On 70's, were the grilles themselves painted with the argent paint or just black? My grille seems to have remnants of what looks to be Argent paint in some spots.
  4. Unfortunately this is why I stepped away from my car for awhile. I got my car back from the body shop and am finding all sorts of issues. The quarter panel seems on both C pillars are cracked, I've had to redo the engine compartment over and worst part the A pillar on the driver's side is rusted through. I have finally started working on it again after two years of just letting it sit.
  5. I clicked on the wrong link from the catalog. Those $300 ones are heated to melt the ice and snow off because LEDs don't create enough heat. They do have regular ones without the heating element. I checked pricing through where I work and I think they were $140 apiece. Sorry for the confusion.
  6. Dave I'm in Troy. Where abouts are you?
  7. Dave check these out from Truk-lite. http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=119524&langId=-1 We had the sale rep stop in with one at work one day. Low beam was definately bright. Plus I liked the almost blacked out look when they are not on. Bill
  8. Big Duke Sorry to hear about the bad experience. I have been on both sides of the counter, as my f/t job is selling Kenworth parts over the counter. I understand as being a customer I would want my product. On the selling side yes I do get frustrated when things don't go as planned. Somethimes things do not go right and you don't have the parts for the customer when you say you will. I know sometimes I do get frustrated when a customer keeps calling but I usually stop and think how I would feel before I go off the deep end on the customer. Maybe he was having a bad day. Glad to hear you did get your headers and like them thou I know with mine, I went with the hydraulic throw out bearing for clearence. Just make sure you give Stan all the info. Trans, clutch type, steering set up and what oil pan you have. Seemed like everything I had on My car Stan had an Application. TKO 600, Moroso oil pan and TCP power rack. good luck. gh.
  9. I agree. I got the grey ice coated headers for my 408C. Very good quality. I think I talked with Stan a good half hour when I ordered mine. Very knowledgable and nice. I would definatly recomend his headers to any one.
  10. Evil Twin I had to do some repairs on my originals too. I glassed some washers to the backside so the screws would hold and repainted with NPD's semi gloss interior paint. Not perfect but you would really have to look close to see the stress cracks. By the way that is one sweet looking ride.
  11. Definately don't buy the ones with the speaker pods built into them. I made that mistake. The driverside needed trimming to somewhat fit decent. The passenger side, forget it. I think I had about half an inch gap where the top of the panel ended to where the quarter window started. Plus all the screw holes needed to be located and drilled out. I tossed them out in the yard and put the originals back in. I think the ones I bought were Drakes.
  12. RPM I'm not that computer savy. Let's see if this link works. http://s296.photobucket.com/user/Bill_Chomycz/library/Facebook/mustang%20pics?sort=3&page=1 I started this project about eight years ago. It was a plain 302 fastback that did't look like it was in too bad a shape. I think we all know how that goes. So far I've replaced the floors, engine compartment panels and trunk floors. The sad part is I did all of this outside in my driveway. I saved up enough money to get the body work done and the doors and quarters were replaced. That took about two years for the shop to complete. I had Lykens Motorsports build me a 408C dynoed at 522hp at 6000 and 499lbs/ft at 4500. That pretty much sums up the story of my money pit. That leads me to today finding the rust bubling through the door post and A-pillar on the driver's side. I've also noticed the body filler at the quarter panel seams shrunk and has cracked the paint. So I'm kind of feeling bummed at this point. I'm not giving up though. I've come this far. Just uploaded some more pics.http://s296.photobucket.com/user/Bill_Chomycz/library/?sort=3&page=1
  13. My engine builder put a Quicktime 750 on my 408 Cleve. He told me he could have gone bigger but 750 was big enough for the street. Good questions brought up by barnett468. It all depends on how the rest of the intake and exhaust components match each other. I've seen slightly warmed over 351's run better with smaller than 600cfm carbs. One other thing to look for is to make sure you have a big enough fuel pump with the bigger carb. My builder recomended a 120gph at 5.5psi pump.
  14. Thanks. Jim I'm not too far from you then. I'm above you in Troy.
  15. Hi all I'm new here. I have been lurking for a long time and finally joined. I am looking for a good shop in the capital area of NY. I had my 70 fastback in bodyshop jail for two years getting redone. Now after a year I thought I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel only to find the paint in my driver's side A pillar starting to bubble with rust. It looks like I need to replace the inner and outer kick panel area and the cowl panel. I realy don't want to tackle this one myself. Worst part is finding this after paint. I am definately not giving another penny to the shop I had do the original work. I guess I fell into the category a lot of others have with shoddy work. Thanks for listening.
  • Create New...