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emorybritt last won the day on July 13 2022

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About emorybritt

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  1. Here I am, 5 years later googling a about my carb again and look, a post with my details with amazing suggestions! Funny how forums are still the goat for this stuff.
  2. Hello, I have a 1969 fastback and recently I put in a 302 bored .30 over, B cam, roller pedestal rockers, and a Holley carb with the number L6R1B (Not sure on the CFM size, assuming 600) and that is connected to a T5 Ford Racing Transmission and Ford 9" with 3.73 gears. Sorry for all the information but I am trying to narrow it down since I know all those questions will be asked anyway. The current carburetor is a regular $320 one from Autozone and recently it has been studdering under mid RPM throttle hits. That is not the question that I am wondering, I am wondering what the best carburetor setup would be for this car with the given info and that it is also my daily with mostly city driving and a decent amount of short distance highway. I know this might sound redundant but I want to have the best MPG's and also the most power possible. I would rather sacrifice the MPG part of course. Thanks to everyone in advance as I am new to the forum but not new to the daily driven classic car struggle!
  3. Well the reason I am asking is because I want to do some upgrades and get a little more power. So if I can't do rocker arms until I Re-gear, what would be some similar upgrades. Going with the cam idea, what would be a suggestion for a new camshaft? And would I have to do anything else when swapping the cam? I am in charlotte, nc. I have a 9" housing sitting at home just waiting for a gear set as well. Im unaware of the pricing of gears? Also I've heard that rear ends aren't a novice job and if so I would have to factor in the price of a mechanic putting that together. Any other ideas on how to get the most out of this setup on a budget?
  4. As far as I know they are bolt down. And as far as milling the heads, what all does that entail? Remember, I am on a low budget and can't have my car off the road for a long period of time. I currently do not have 3.25 gears I have 2.80 with a T5 tranny but if I was planning on re-gearing would it be bad to run the 1.7 ratio rockers until I upgraded the gears?
  5. So with my limited knowledge, any rocker with a 3/8" stud and 1.6 ratio will work? Just making sure because I've been browsing craigslist and want to make sure. Also, have you or anyone noticed any gains? Or just a more reliable engine?
  6. I recently dropped in a ATK HP06 Ford 302 base engine 300hp. I want to do some mild/cheap upgrades nothing serious or a real project. I was wondering what would the best roller rockers be? Also, what would some similar upgrades be? I'm looking to make the most hp out of this but on a small budget and also without having my car off the road for long. Here are the stats: Horsepower: 300 Torque: 336 lb/ft Block: Seasoned OE Roller Block Bore/Stroke: 4.040 x 3.000 Year Range: 1987-1995 Displacement: 302 C.I.D. Crankshaft: OE Ford Cast 3.000" Stroke 1 Piece Seal Externally Balanced 50oz. Connecting Rods: OE Steel Rod 5.400" Stock Bolts Pistons: Hypereutectic Piston Rings: Moly Rings Compression Ratio: 9.1:1 Compression Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Specifications: 219/219 @050 .498in/.498ex 112LSA Camshaft Bearings: Installed & Clocked to OEM Position Cylinder Heads: OE E5TE/E7TE 62cc 1.77/1.46 Freeze Plugs: Brass Installed & Sealed Rocker Arms: Stamped Steel 1.6 Ratio Oil Galley Plugs: Installed & Sealed Oil Pan: OE 5qt. Dual Sump �Fox body� Weight:400
  7. thank you barnett i will definitely try that tomorrow. today as i was driving after checking the timing to make sure it was at 6 degrees before and not after and as i would get on the gas it would sound like it would almost stall then then it would suddenly accelerate like a lag before it would kick in. and im going to do the screwdriver thing tomorrow to see if i can pinpoint the sound. from inside the car it sounds like it is on the driver side but i could be wrong since im on the drivers side when i drive.
  8. I've tried many times to contact the owner before me but he has no intentions of telling me anything. Would it help to set the timing any lower than 6 degrees btc? Also what else can I do to pinpoint the problem
  9. Definitely is at 6 degrees BEFORE top dead center that was a typo sorry for that haha but scared me enough to make sure
  10. I couldn't manage to get a picture but the timing point is just to the left of the 10 degree mark. I'm not sure how to better word that
  11. I'm about to hop under and check for any exhaust leaks because that would be an easy fix. But it's sounding like every time the distributor turns there's a ticking and the faster the distributor turns the faster the ticking is. This was a craigslist buy and the engine ran so I didn't do any work to it other than piecing it all together with a Holley 650 on that's why I don't know the compression ratio. I'm gonna check the timing and see if I can't get a picture of where it's at to post up
  12. what exactly is that? this shows my limited knowledge of all of this haha
  13. sounds like a ticking and as i accelerate so does the knocking and before i have cut off the advance and still it knocks. I havent tried to cut off the advance since i set it to 6 degrees so i could try that and maybe the advance is turning the timing too far up. i can slightly hear the knocking when its idling but barely and when its in park and i turn the throttle up i still dont hear it but barely. But when its in drive and im just driving down the street in 1st at 2000 rps i hear it distinctly.
  14. Hello, I have a 1969 mustang fastback that I built from the ground up and was finished about a year ago and there has always been this constant spark knock. I have messed with the timing in all different ways and it is currently at 6 degrees atdc. recently got a pertronix distributor put in. Today I changed the spark plugs and put in autolite copper plugs and new spark plug wires in and changed the coolant and also changed the oil and oil filter in hopes that something would change but of course it didnt. before the timing was at 10 degrees and that was terrible and its better at 6 but its definitely still there. im checking tomorrow for an exhaust leak but i doubt thats what it is because the knocking changes when the timing is changed. Any advice will be greatly appreciated I only have so much knowledge about this.
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