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smh00n

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Posts posted by smh00n

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Brains trust

    I finally started to install the Modern Driveline cable clutch kit I bought 6 years ago.

    All is good until I installed it, and the clevis on top of the pedal as pictured below, is hitting on the bottom of the cowl, so the pedal will not travel all the way tot he floor.

    image.png.45a27b717dc3f3dd18600472893ccff7.png

    I have the MD clutch pedal as well, so there was no cutting needed (these pictures are from the assembly instructions).

    IMG_5270.thumb.JPG.79cb452b3222b2b9b7d7a4f3d07ad424.JPG

    This picture hopefully shows the interference of the clevis.

    Has anyone got experience of this and how did you fix it? I don't really want to be banging dents into the cowl.

     

  5. Posted · Report reply

    So I have started to convert my original factory power steer/auto 70 to a Borgeson p/s unit.

    I am also converting to manual and don't need the lock tube set up.

    Mustang Steve claims that you need to use a roller bearing right at the base of the column on a Borgeson/rack conversion and I can see why - there is no real solid support past the nylon bush about 4 inches up the column.

    So, my issue is how to deal with the lower end of the column.

    My test fit today confirmed I need to cut at least 1" and probably 1.5" off the bottom of the column to make it all work nicely, as the rag joint doesn't have much room. IMG_5220.thumb.JPG.f3e3c7cdce878c74087d6c46cda6728b.JPG

    I've fully pulled the column down and I see possibly 2 options. As the '70 relies on the lock tube to hold the top lock ring in place, I need to keep it.

    1. Cut the outer tube down, collapse the inner shaft and also collapse the lock tube. For those not in the know, the lock tube is 2-piece and has nylon that holds it in place. I have had words with it and have collapsed it down about 1/2". Place a screw into the support to keep the lockout, locked and done. Then, replace the whole shebang and away we go. But this option leaves the ugly lock lever in the engine bay and also does not managed the movement at the base of the column. The lower thin nylon bush in the lock tube seems to offer no support to the actual steering shaft. Is this correct?

    2. Cut the outer tube down, collapse the inner shaft to suit, and then cut off the bottom of the lock tube, removing the lever completely. Then, find a roller bearing that fits the lower column and supports the steering shaft centrally. The lock tube will still be supported by the nylon bush inside the column and there is a small boss that I can use to put a screw into to lock the lock-out off so it doesn't cause me static in years to come.

    What I am not sure about is what it the purpose of the lower bush? As per the attached image taken from www.deadnutson.com it doesn't support the steering shaft, so why is it there?

    1035860569_Deadnutsonbush.thumb.jpg.a01753f9817c54088a6afdf1e6c6d1e9.jpg

    At this point, I am thinking a simple roller or ball bearing inserted into the bottom of the cut down tube is going to work better. 

    What would Pedro do :) ?

     

     

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Guys

    I am thinking of going to the night race at BMS next September. Looks like this is a popular race as not many tickets available.

    Am I better to take a package deal from the BMS partner (or others) or just go it alone. Seems hard to get a single ticket and I would also prefer somewhere I could hide from the sun as I burn bad. The Busch terraces look good but I can’t see how Joe Public can book a seat. However, I’m not going there without having cars go by at 200mph right next to me, so I have issues.

    Any tips you could give me? I am flexible with plans, I may have a car as if drag week aligns I’d like to do that as well, otherwise I can fly in.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    There's no replacement for displacement.... and the torque of a big block will make the front of your shorts stick out.

    I had a 429/C6/9" in an Aussie Falcon years ago. Touched the towers, sucked gas but did it all with ease. With 2.75 rear it lit them up from a standing start in 2nd gear. But, unless you know what you are looking at most people won't realise it's not a Cleveland and so the cool factor is missing.

    For $6K I'd go with a 351 Windsor based motor, keep all the current hardware and swap it in on a Saturday.

     

  8. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, det0326 said:

    doesn't the hole in  69 booster pushrod that attaches to the petal have a downward offset and the 70 is straight. That maybe a good way to tell which u have

    That's correct, but if you use them as a matched pair then they work. You can't put a 69 pedal on a 70 booster (and vice versa).

    From what I have learned over the past day the pedal box is the same regardless of brake. Looks like I am missing 2 brackets to the firewall.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    1 minute ago, Hux said:

    I have mine all apart at the moment.  If you need pics just let me know.  I am in Brisbane….I have converted from manual to power brakes with a genuine 70 booster.

     

    Damn yes! If you could send me where the triangular bracket bolts on the lower bolt holes that would be great. Mine has A/C so trying to see past the vent hoses is a bit of a nightmare.

    If it is also easy to send a shot of the pressed metal brace that goes form the dash to the firewall I'd appreciate it.

    Can send you my email if thats easier.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Well, this thing is a total stuff up. They have put a 69 pedal and booster into it. I have had to replace the booster so went with what was in it.

    I've not pulled what I call the pedal box (P/N 01508) out but I need to when I convert it to stick. Hopefully it is a '70 and is a power brake assembly. If it's not, then that will explain all the hassles I've had with trying to get the brakes on this thing sorted.

    I'm pretty sure that P/N 015A18 is missing, as I think that bolts to the aluminium spacers on the steering column top mount (?). If so, then that is missing too.

    Any one have a complete power disc, stick trans pedal assembly for a 70 they have for sale? 

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/15/2022 at 3:27 AM, aslanefe said:

    Looks like a Holden ute (pick up for folks in the US).

    That's a trusty BA Falcon RTV ute. Pull anything in comfort. They either had the Barra 6 cylinder or the apology that was the 5.4 3V V8.

    You'll get 500 easy out of a turbo Barra. They are even being sent to the US. Australia's response to the LS everything movement :)

     

  19. Posted · Edited by smh00n · Report reply

    Thanks. I am converting the lights to LED and was going to use 10.0v as a reference for the load, but today I checked all the wires for voltage and somehow the voltage has now jumped to 12.5 on both light circuits. Dunno how I changed it, definitely some elec-trickery going on. At least now I can go forward with my lights and power box and not have to start again. 

    I'm building the lights myself and not use a commercial unit.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Another question - what sort of voltage should I see at both stop and tail lights, at the rear lights?

    I checked yesterday and I'm seeing about 10.5v on the stop and closer to 11.0v on the tail. It does change a bit with engine revs which I didn't think would happen (?).  I suspect the stop light circuit is not correct as there is some replacement wiring, and it may be higher resistance than OEM but knowing the 'correct' voltage will make it easier for me.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I have a Sniper on my car and very happy with it. From first start it just ran well and I have never had an issue. I used the base kit.

    My set up is the Sniper with a MSD 6AL, 8479 distributor and a Holley EFI tank. I use the sniper to manage timing and electric fans. I have a Edelbrock torker manifold (the original, not a Torker II) on a tired old 302 ( I have a 347 just waiting to out together whenever I get time)

    Couple of points I'd change;

    The Holley tank is a pain as all the fittings come through the top. Basically you need a false floor to protect the lines which I am still thinking about how to do. I'd probably look at the fuel sender module with pump if I did this again. The pump is a little bit loud but that can be a wank factor as the people watching realise its not a standard car.

    The fuel sender caused me all sorts of grief. While the Ohms might be correct, you actually need to change the float level to have the gauge read right. I think I pulled it out 6 times trying to make it read right. I'm about 1/8" off I reckon to having it 'perfect'

    The wiring I followed to the letter, good earths, strong positives and no cross over of wires. Only hassle I had was the MSD and Holley guides had different instructions for wiring the distributor into the 6AL box (Holley instructions are correct, btw).

    Hot or cold, I have decent starts. I have a MSD hi torque starter and like 0 gauge wires all through the start circuit. I control the idle, I control when the fans come on and off, I can set the AFR, all sitting in the driver seat. You can change the fuel map but that's well over my pay grade or care factor.

    I know there are lots of horror stories out there for Sniper and Fitech, but when you read all the issues it comes down to power and earth (for Holley, I don't look at FiTech but they seem to be the same). Like I said, from the first start this thing just booted up, settled into a nice idle and has never let me down. Disclaimer; I've only done around 500 miles on it over the past year so it's not getting worn out any time soon.

    I went with Holley as they have been out there for over 100 years and were the original supplier to Ford, so they must do something right.

     

  23. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/25/2021 at 11:19 AM, Midlife said:

    That problem is due to a very bad design issue by Ford (which was corrected in following years).  There are no true grounds for the side marker lamps, instead the lamps light up when there's a difference in voltage between the turn signal and the running lights.  This means that the turn signal lines or the running light lines act as a ground and that there is voltage/current bleed-through from one to the other.  This makes trouble-shooting near impossible.  Bad Boy, Ford, Bad Boy! 

    The Fraud Motor Company outdid themselves on this one alright. I stripped back the harness on the driver side yesterday - soooo many black wires! 

    I think I have identified the wiring I need; it turns out the PO had already run a new brake light wire and has hacked up the OEM harness, so I believe I can just cut one wire and put it to the new indicator bulb. 

    Watch this space.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Pgold that's similar to what I was thinking. I'll have to get time to look at the whole set up and see how I can change it. I'm thinking maybe change the side lights to just marker lights.

    The whole 70 alternating indicator and side light thing has stumped me, and now may explain why the repro front indicators I used seemed to not work properly. The indicator bulb was on at park and the side light bulb flashed (basically, reverse of what should have happened) so now I need to spend some time thinking this through. One of the joys of buying another mans project :(

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I have a Sniper but with MSD Pro-billet. Wiring that one component caused me more hassle than the entire carb/tank/wiring process.

    Holley really need a better instruction writer, as I found their instructions wrong too. Sniper instructions said wire this way, MSD said wire that way. Can't remember the answer now but I'm sure the MSD instructions were right and Holley wrong.

    You'll like the Sniper, just works when wired right. Cold starts are like a new car, no hesitation at all. Heck, all starts are like a new car :)

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