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Everything posted by smh00n

  1. I run all my cars at 36-38 psi. My wife pulled 70,000km (40,000 miles?) out of a set of Bridgestone Potenza 18" on her daily drive. Most others struggle to get 40,000 km out of them. I got 120,000km out of a set of Goodyear cargo, which are a commercial 1 tonne tyre. Running them at 30psi or around that just wears them out. On my Hoon cars it doesn't matter what pressure I use, the rears don't last as long as the fronts.
  2. I hassled them by email and they finally extended my current Hot Rod subscription. Too some effort, but my renewal date has been extended. A reminder to always save emails and receipts.
  3. Bad news on the fires here. A Canadian C130 Hercules with a USA crew crashed on Thursday 23 with no survivors in the 3 man crew. Pretty shocking, we've had helicopters and fixed wings crash but nothing this size. At this stage nothing is known why it went down. I am part of fire aviation and the flight trace looked normal until it went down. It dropped retardant for 2 seconds just before we lost sight of it. We have had a lot of US and Canadian aviation people over this year and they have been some of the best people we work with. Their level of expertise is very high and they all hit the ground running. They found that the word 'mate' has many variations from positive to negative but can be used in every social situation. It's bad enough to loose people in fires, worse still when they are miles from home and away from family helping out strangers. RIP B134 and thanks.
  4. Grabber I realised I've already written up about the MSD instal on my progress page.
  5. Grabber, yes I have it controlling timing. I did this after I installed it with the Ford distributor as even Holley recommended to get it running first then do timing control, just so you don't have 2 issues to chase if you have a problem (which I didn't and was a bit surprised after reading all the drama on the Sniper EFI forum). The MSD distributor can be locked out pretty easily and in my box the parts were included. I have pictures at home with the mods. Basically the obvious - remove the vacuum advance and lock the base plate. The info on using timing control I found confusing. One manual for either Sniper or the Distributor (I can't recall which) stated you needed to use an adjustable rotor, the other one said you didn't. When I started installing it, I'm pretty sure the Sniper manual said you didn't need to install the adjustable rotor. 60 bucks down the drain. The problem was I think both Sniper user guides had different stories about how to set it it and only 1 is correct. The Sniper kit has the cable to run from the distributor output to the 6AL. I recall you have to set the distributor at a point (15 degree's??) but that is all in the Sniper manual. You then change the handheld to set it as timing control and away you go. On the handheld you can see the timing in one of the gauges as well. Was a pretty simple process in the end. I have pics somewhere, now it is all finished I'll add to my build post with it all.
  6. Well down here our coldest day would be about zero (40F?) celcius so cold weather won't be an issue. Hot is.
  7. I put one on a tired old 302. I've not run it enough yet to fully complete learning but I have not done anything to any tables. Idles nicely, hot or cold. Starts pretty well first time, with both the original points distributor and the MSD billet/6AL combo I put on. So far, I am impressed with it and have no issues. I guess the challenge will be once I drive it in traffic and see how it goes. Which is what I wanted as I can't be bothered tuning either a carb or playing with EFI.
  8. I got an email this week saying that Car Craft was dropped and I would get digital access to another mag (Hot Rod, Motor Trend or 4WD) and 6 months access to Motr Trend streaming. No mention of Mustang Monthly. Nor money back. Lucky I only took a 1 year Car Craft subscription when renewing MM as it was like a few bucks more. Maybe MM has survived the cut?
  9. I just signed up for 3 years subscription. I hate reading magazines on a computer
  10. Thanks Vic. I only needed one to use as a kill switch - Trunk Monkeys are too dear - and the cost of shipping one down here is too much. We were on holiday over there but were moving hotel every day so I couldn't order a new one. We were in Charlotte for 2 days as well :(
  11. Apparently $125 according to a wrecking yard in North West GA. Is that right? Are cigar lighters for 70's so valuable? What annoys me is they wouldn't give me a price on the phone, despite me saying if it's 5 bucks I'm there but if it's $50 I'm out. I drove from Athens out of my way.....
  12. You need a speaker with just under 2" from the mount face to the back of the speaker (well in my car thats the case). I'm putting mine in the original position just under the door trim in the steel part of the door (I don't have a Mach 1 so not a full door trim) and keeping the original speaker grilles.
  13. Spend more money than you first thought. Speakers make the sound and if you enjoy your tunes it's worth it. My wife has a Kicker system in her daily and for me they need to be pumping to perform and lack bass and mid range. I went to buy a Rockfod Fosgate setup for my 70 but the shop steered me into Hertz Audio based on I wasn't after popping windows out of the car. Yet to instal tham but they reckon they do lots of systems with them.
  14. Another one for brakes and steering. New standard stuff is all I would use (and am using) The hourly rate is what I'd look at. To redo the front and rear with stock stuff I reckon a bloke by himself would do that in 2 days so a 'pro' should take less than that. In our part of the world mechanics would be getting around $80-100 an hour so that's 15 hours. If you're halfway handy you could have a go yourself. They are a pretty simple suspension set up and you do 1 side at a time so you can refer to the other if you get lost.
  15. Well I feel like a goose. Not checking properly and dirty terminal was the issue. Plus I was using an LED light which didn't have enough resistance. Used a bulb light, cleaned the terminal and all is working. D'Oh.
  16. No It's a no-name brand from here in Australia. It is internally regulated and self-exciting. The light I have needs a ground so I'm not sure how to do it (I am rookie sparky), plus it is LED. I was told I needed a filament bulb but not sure if that is correct for a self exciting alternator. If I wire in the light from the "I" terminal to a switched 12v wire on the ignition switch it only lights up when the engine is running, not when it is not. Do I need the resistor and/or a filament bulb?
  17. I changed the alternator on my 70 to a 100 amp unit. The PO had already done this and didn't use the original voltage regulator but had an idiot light installed. I didn't really check how it was done, but they had cut into the 2 wires coming from the harness, ran a wire to the light and back and then into the harness. The other wire came direct from the alternator into this harness. I've tried a few different things; a wire direct from the output terminal on the alternator to a switched wire at the ignition switch has the light on when the engine is running and off when not. If I try to plug the 2 wires from the harness, it powers the MSD box and causes the engine to diesel on shut off. 1 wire is hot all the time and 1 is switched with the ignition. I've looked at all the wiring diagrams and I can't figure out what to do. Any clues? Surely I can just run a wire to a new light on the dash and it will work??
  18. Upgrade 2; MSD 6AL system (and then starter, relay, battery cables scope creep) So, with the Sniper running good it was on to the next stage - fitting a MSD6AL, ready to run distributor and a blaster coil. First up, I had been supplied a vacuum advance distributor from the shop I bought the whole kit from. Duh; vacuum advance isn't used on MSD. So, lets remove the vacuum advance and lock out the rotor. Read MSD instructions, follow them and it's not right. The shaft for the vacuum unit won't come out the little hole. Despite trying, and making a bit of a mess I took matters into my own hand and pulled the top half off. Yabba dabba doo, easy. Dratted little stud caused all this issue. When you pull the top half off it's easy. So, now I have a distributor time to move on. The Holley Sniper instructions tell you that you also need an adjustable rotor. For why they don't say but I dutifully paid my bucks and bought one. Now, where to put the box. It's an a/c car so under the dash is no room. Lots of room on drivers side but all the power is on the passenger side. And there's a particularly ugly starter solenoid over there. Only one thing to do.... Change this: To this: I had a Tilton super starter on the shelf to install, so why not know? New 00 B&S cables to the starter and ground, a relay to cope with the starter loads and while I'm at it why not put in a power distribution block to handle all the power needs. To protect the alternator circuit I also made up a fusible link in 6 B&S cable. I would have liked a nice circuit breaker but nothing was sexy enough to put in. This is the business of the red cables. The alternator feed is plugged into the battery cable which is 8 B&S. The other side has power going to the relay for the starter and across the other side the relays for the headlights. I also pulled the original wiring harness down and hooked the power feed into the distribution block. The wire sitting up is the coil feed ('I' side of the original solenoid) and the original amp meter wires I have left. I'l run an idiot light from the alternator to the dash until I make a decision on what gauges I am going with. The battery cables are probably too big, but I want a reliable car that is over-engineered. As well as crimping all teminals to the big wires I dropped some solder in as well. No electric failures I hope. So with the new starter installed, relay in place and wiring sorted now to put the MSD box in. I'm not totally happy with this, I should have put the power distribution block up on the strut tower and put the MSD box right down, but there's still time to change. The wires running across the top are the power and earth for the Sniper and I looped the 6AL wiring into the conduit as well. Now there's more hassle with MSD wiring. Both Sniper and 6AL books gave me different instructions (to my dumb-ass eyes anyway) and it wasn't clear how to do it. A quick watch of the Holley video on fitting a 6AL with a Sniper gave me the answer; distributor output to the CD box witht he included extension cable, grey wire from the box to the purple and green wire from the Sniper, using the included plug which had only the purple wire. The white wire normally used for a coil driver is not used, but you can use it for a kill switch. The yellow wire which was used to trigger the coil now becomes redundant. It is probably me but I found the instructions a bit confusing. I put the coil on the driver side as I had run out of room and just extended the power wires across (about a foot anyway). Now for the kick in the pants - the Holley video didn't mention anything about adjustable rotors, putting the distributor retarded 15 degree's. Just whack it in about 10 degrees BTDC and lock it in. So I have a spare, brand new adjustable rotor. Great. Last steps, install the plug wires (MSD 8.5mm) check for lost tools/wires/hands and boot it up. Yes, that K&N filter just misses the plug ends. Still need to put the wire routers on to make it neater, but that will come with the new engine. Started first go, timing was showing on the Sniper screen and all was good. First thing I noticed is it idled too high. So, I backed off the idle screw a tad and it settled down (this is in direct contrast to having to wind it up when first installed) Took it for a run, runs well but I haven't driven it enough to complete the learning. The install was nice and easy, the biggest issue was trying to find a decent spot to put things and to route the wiring nicely. Once I had the wires figured out it was fine. I used decent tools for this - a Narva (local go-to brand) pro wire crimper, a B&S terminal crimper and a decent soldering iron and blow torch. I used heat shrink on all connections and cable-tied it all back. They did make it easy, terminal crimps first time, no waste. If you're wondering I have a trickle charger on the battery which is what the clips on the battery terminals are.
  19. I need the spring for the hood latch on a 70. Can you buy them or have to go whole new repop?
  20. Based on this experience I'd not hesitate to do it again. A few guys have dissed the concept as low rent but my needs were being able to fit it easily, it willimprove the performance and be able to adapt to performance improvements. As I have a 347 to go into it, I'm happy with not having to visit a dyno guy twice to get the thing running well.
  21. I'm about 2 months away from doing the same thing, but I am using a 302/8.2" deck block. Same specs, shorty headers, full MD kit. And I also bought all the bits 4 years ago... From what I have read the only issue is the brake booster clearance where the cable enters the firewall (I assume you are using MD cable clutch conversion?) with the 9" booster being the issue. The 8" booster (which I have) is better as the cable is supposed to go in right next to the booster. The motor mounts only seem to be needed to get the shaker sitting right, although I can't get my K&N air filter on with the current Torker intake. I've got a RPM air gap as well to go on the new motor so hopefully it is a bit lower. But I'm happy to chuck a shaker on it :)
  22. Thanks. I wasn't sure if Grabbers were anything to talk about. There's a website for them http://1970mgr.org/index.html if you didn't know about it
  23. I'll second that. My brake light switch works OK. The studs are way too long so the OEM cast dual reservoir cylinder cannot be removed without pulling the entire booster. One of the reasons I went with the local master which is much shorter along with a bit of rookie not knowing what should be correct on these things.
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