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Everything posted by smh00n

  1. No, its a full Tanks Inc tank. So it is a 22 gal tank with the universal style sender that you adjust for height, pictured below. The only thing I can figure is that somehow I have not assembled the sender correctly but I have checked 3 times, watched videos, scratched myself and I am sure it is correct. The gauge is OEM. I've never driven the car a lot so I don't know if it works proper, BUT when manually moving the float the gauge shows full to empty and points in between.
  2. Thanks. I was hoping you'd pop in. So is there an answer? It's just got me beat why it reads fine out of the tank but not in the tank. No obstruction I can see, floating and it is dropping so something is happening
  3. I have the Holley Sniper EFI 22 gallon fuel tank which is actually made by Tanks Inc. The sender does not read full when in the tank. I currently have roughly 2/3 of a tank of fuel in it but the sender is reading 1/3 and is dropping as you'd expect with consumption. I checked the numbers and its reading more than the 73-10 Ohms it needs. Full is well over 90 Ohms and empty is close to zero. So I'm unsure if this will affect the operation. Out of the tank, putting the rheostat to highest point the gauge just reads well over full. Empty, is well, empty. Now here's the problem - I test the gauge out of the tank with the float fitted. Full on the sender gives full on the gauge. Empty gives empty. Halfway, roughly half.But when I install it it reads 1/3 tank with the 2/3 tank fuel level. I've driven it and as above it is dropping as gas is guzzled. I don't know why it is reading so low when installed in the tank. So far I have: Checked tank height and adjusted the float to min and max on the bench using a ruler Full reads 10.5 Ohms about 3/4" below the tank bottom I have 73 Ohms so I have some reserve gas when the gauge says empty The fuel tank is 9" deep, I have 3" gap to fuel level = 2/3 tank of fuel Rheostat is fitted correctly the float floats, both by itself and on the sender arm I tested the sender in a bucket of water. Floats, Ohms change as the sender moves I emailed Tanks Inc about it. Their reply was quote Ford using 2 different kinds of 73 - 10 Ohm scales, one was linear where the scales changed equally across the sender range and the other was non-linear where the sending unit worked at 10 Ohms full, half tank was 25 Ohms and empty was 50 Ohms with everything else than 50 moving the gauge further below the E unquote. He has a linear sender https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd346.htm which is a non-linear sender but it costs 98 bucks. Plus shipping, plus exchange rate for us, etc. So, has anyone come across this and whats the fix? I see the logic in the quote above, but surely not every 1970 Mustang had 2 different fuel senders/gauges fitted depending on where they were built?
  4. Me too. I thought the chances of some lowlife wanting to light up a cancer stick while trying to boost my Stang was pretty low. I wasn't sure it would work as a lighter is not the most precision instrument and I thought it may ground out, but it works really well. I've tested it engine off and try to start, engine on activate it and driving along pushing it in and out. All worked and it doesn't ground until the lighter is pushed in.
  5. Put in a stealth kill switch. Hooked the MSD white wire to the cigarette lighter. Push in the lighter, the engine cranks but won't fire. (Mustang thieves don't read Mustang forums. DO they?) Fixed a rattle in the rear. Turns out it was the 3 light conversion for the tail light that was vibrating with the stereo. A bit of silicone sorted it out.
  6. I replaced the whole front suspension. Some Klutz had put in 2 different height spindles and then spaced the arms to make it fit. It started out as a squeaking ball joint that needed greasing, ended up being a total rebuild. Lucky for us Down Here we have Falcons for donor cars that are plentiful. So I took the front out of a 1991 model with rubber bushes on the top arms and disc stub axles. Sand blasted them, painted chassis black, put in new ball joints, lowered front springs and a 1 1/8" sway bar. Used polyurethane bushes throughout (only because they were cheaper than OEM rubber). At the same time I put 1/8" spacers in the front of the top arm bolts to give it castor and used local KMAC camber bolts to give it camber. Replaced some ordinary wheel bearings too. Drove it first time yesterday. Seems to steer slightly better - I think the PS box is a bit wobbly - and turns nicer. Sure has some camber on it, it needs a wheel alignment. Sits about 1" above the 15" wheel which is disappointing. I had hoped to get the tyre at least level with the guard but that may still happen once the springs settle. At least it's a job that is done and I don't need to worry about it.
  7. I am using MSD 6AL and it has a ground wire. I'm hoping to wire it to the cigarette lighter, so you pull it out to run. Hoping the Mustang boosters won't notice a cigarette lighter pushed in when they come calling.
  8. jmlay my thoughts too so I have just reinstalled and moved on.
  9. Well I just reused the sleeves that were there. The photo one was the worst wear so good enough. This is just a road car and as Australia doesn't allow fuck all modifications to cars all I have done is replace everything with new bits.
  10. So this is the sleeve in position This is the sleeve on the ground And this is the poly bush fitted with and without the sleeve. There's not a huge difference in size but having spent $1,000 rebuilding the whole front end, introducing slack doesn't seem right.
  11. My 70 has round 'sleeves' that are fitted inside the bracket where the lower control arm strut rod bolts to the chassis. Looks like they are on both sides and reduce the ID of the mount hole where the bushes go in. They are not the sleeves that go over the actual strut rod and are fitted into the round hole of the chassis bracket. They are pretty thin. One has worn through and fallen out so the bushes are a bit loose although I've not tightened the bushes up yet. I can't find a reference to them anywhere. Is this an original part or have I again been sucked in by some previous 'restorer'? I'll post pics if needed.
  12. If you can, don't bring in an investor. You will lose your personal touch and satisfaction. And you'll have to start paying the money they want.
  13. Welcome to Down Under. If it was in Australia none of the fabricated suspension would even get past the front door. I have a Borgeson steering box that I will probably have to get xrayed before the Engineer(!) will issue a certificate approving it before it even goes to a registration inspection. The stuff we are not allowed to do - the dual driveshaft loop is an example - is a pain. Be glad in the Land of the Free you can bolt in stuff with welds and rose joints and no one cares.
  14. I would look at the fuel pump modules Holley has or other vendors where the pump and sender use the original tank. I bought a Sniper EFI tank which is just a Tanks Inc product and having the fuel fittings dead centre of the tank is a pain in the rear. If I were to convert mine again today I would stick with the stock tank and a fuel module inside the tank as per this thread.
  15. I had the same problem but upped 1 by also smearing a bit of electric grease stuff from an electronics shop to make contact. Seems to be OK.
  16. You are certainly the man. I forgot about CJ... With the grille, I have the metal supports but looks like something goes from back of the plastic grille to this https://www.cjponyparts.com/grille-support-1970/p/G6S/
  17. I need the plugs/nuts that go under the stone tray at the bottom of the grille as per the attached shot. Also the clip or bracket that hold the middle of the grille to the centre support that holds the bonnet lock. A real curly one is the 'speed nut' that the headlight bucket screws into, to allow for adjustment of the beam. Looks like it is a part. I've looked at a few parts catalogs but I can't find numbers. Anyone have a link to a supplier or the part numbers for all 3?
  18. Go just as big wire size on the body ground. I think I have 02GA for both and no power issues at all.
  19. Mine wasn't that out. I'll take a shot tomorrow and put it up. Can you not bend the 70 neck a bit to fit? It's not that far out. I guess its a repro neck so may not be correct anyway, in the angle of the flange to the tube.
  20. I used these. Not real bright but enough to see at night. These shots were in a closed garage with a little bit of light https://www.jaycar.com.au/t10-wedge-replacement-led-globe-blue/p/ZD0392 The do white, which I used for the indicators and red which I used for the high beam. Cheap as anything but not sure if the shop would post internationally. They are on ebay I think.
  21. I have the same tank, but supplied in a Holley Sniper box. The filler fitted my 70 fine, nowhere as misaligned as that. I used a repro filler tube and hose and no issues.
  22. Radiator and electric fan upgrade I started driving the car for real during February which is our summer. Not really driven it far before then and for only short trips to check things like the brakes, so putting about 100 miles on it in traffic showed that the cooling was not great. It overheated after about 15 minutes and wouldn't cool down until it got a good run, which is hard to do in the 'burbs. The car had a 20" radiator with a 5 blade steel fan and no shroud. So I turned to my spares shelf and plucked off a GPI 24" alloy radiator that I had bought some years back. This came with 2 x electric fans included. The quality is questionable as the whole kit cost $240 Australian (about $200 US). The radiator looks to be decent quality, the welds are nice and it looks like it should. First issue, the opening for the radiator was just a tad too wide to bolt it in comfortably: Even though I used rivnuts in the radiator there just wasn't enough room to get a bolt in, so I welded in a couple of 1" wide strips so the opening was now as wide as the core. The height of the new radiator was as big as you could get in there. I removed the (1) original lower mount and out a 15mm spacer under the radiator and bolted it in. First test had the driver side tank touching the hood, so that had to go down a few mm. This was tight as the lower hose inlet sat right above the strut bar cross member. But, get it in I did and it looked like this. Note the lower hose inlet location, we'll address that later. Next, mount and wire the included electric fans. These were 10" diameter and could be run as push or pullers. For reasons only known to me I decided to mount them in front of the radiator. Probably to keep the engine bay clean looking and to be able to run the relay wiring neatly, although in the shot above there is plenty of room. This shot shows the welding insert, the relay mounts and the fans. I am running a Holley Sniper which allows for 2 fans to be controlled with on and off for both fans adjustable. I set this at 190 on and off at 180 for the first fan and 200 on 190 off for the second one. Now the problems started. I had bought a new hose set from Summit and the lower hose didn't fit. It was for a radiator that had the inlet right at the very end of the bottom tank. Remember how this car has been put together from random parts? After looking and researching it appears that the hose that was fitted was from a Ford Falcon XW & XY with a Cleveland engine. For all of those who have this issue this is the part number you need: No thanks to the parts jockeys at all our major parts shops. Half of them are kids who asked me what a 302 Windsor was. I need to start my own parts shop I think. Anyway, cooling now fixed, whats the next issue? Oh, they have used one belt to run the alternator and the power steer, not two. Now, I don't know what the exact set up is, but it appears to me that the alternator is driven off the water pump and the power steer off the crank, based on pictures I have seen. So the pulley lined up with the alternator and the power steer, so I ended up spacing the power steer pump out about 30mm to run the two belts. Still not happy but it's running. First drive, we get up to about 190 degree's quickly.Easy I think, I just dial up fan control and drop them 10 degree's on run temp. No difference, we still hit 210 and climbing. Dammit. I research fans and find Spal, Mishmoto and all variations between. You have to use a shroud, no you don't. Use a BF Falcon set up seems to be the solution for most Aussie's, but that needs cutting, trimming, modification. Then I find Aussie Desert Coolers in Melbourne. Over-engineered they promise. We'll fix it. So I call them and tell them what I have. Easy they tell me, give us the width of the radiator core and the width of the mount tabs and we'll do the rest. How much? $295 delivered for 2 x 12" 1,000 CFM fans, mounted and wired. Shut up and take my money I says. A week later, look what turns up, (and in the meantime I have spaced the power steer pump, aligned all the belts and made it nice): Damn if that's not good product. 220 watts each motor, pisses on the 80W supplied with the radiator. But that means more improvements, more power to the relays and bigger wires from the relays. So I have run 8 AWG wire across the front of the car to a junction block and have put the fan relays there with the headlight relays, and put new 5mm wire to the fans. A decent body earth and nicely tied in. Now all is sorted, test run it in the shed and let it get hot. 185 degree's, first fan comes on. It is quiet and powerful. I had the radiator cap off to burp the cooling system and it was pulling the steam down into the fan. I let it get hot and the second fan comes on. The temps are dropping nicely, brings it back under 190 and holds it. I go to take it for a test drive and I have no brakes!. FAAAAAARRRRRK the repop booster has failed after less than 100 miles driving. Folks, I did say I had no issues with a repop but now I have the original Bendix in with the shop to rebuild. The old saying goes buy the best first time because it will cost you in the end of you don't. To be continued....
  23. Tail light upgrade I saw on another forum an upgrade to 3 lights for the tail lights, instead of the single light. So about 50 bucks later I had the kit. It's a Scott Drake kit and is pretty simple These sit under the tail light lens and are held in place by the lens locating screw. Fit was a bit ordinary; the lens sat a bit proud of the base and despite trimming the front and back of the vertical separators I was never happy with the fit, but they are done. As in Australia we must have both tail lights showing when the brakes are on, most cars get converted to have the reverse lights as the indicators and the brake lights both work at once. So I joined all 3 light's wiring into a single plug, and also ran a earth direct from the plate insert. All 3 bulbs now work for park and stop lights. I changed the main harness to accept the same plug and ran an earth wire from each light. Even though the Scott Drake catalogue shows a grommet mine didn't have one but my trusty spares box had one. I bought a set of leather punches just for this sort of purpose, to be able to cut a nice clean hole. I need to get an 'after' but this is the 'before' shot of the brake lights on: This is the 'after' shot of just the tail lights (it was taken in the middle of the day so not real indicative)
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