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smh00n

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Posts posted by smh00n

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Me and my wife are planning a road trip from New Orleans across to Charlotte/Atlanta/? next fall.

    We like country rock music - Jason Aldean sorta stuff - and a bit of history along with vehicles.

    Are there any places we gotta visit? We'll have 3 weeks so a bit of time but then again not so much time.

    Whats the deal with owning cars there? To rent a car is probably about $3,000US so would it be cheaper to buy a clunker (that is reliable) and then leave it or sell it? Probably a rookie question but when you are paying 25c more for every dollar spent every little bit helps.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    Regarding the residual check valve mentioned in the original post.  It is basically internal to the master cylinder.  Behind the tube seat in the outlet port to the rear brakes.  It's purpose is to help prevent the rear wheel cylinders from leaking by maintaining a very small amount of pressure against the seals.

    I wonder if my repro master cylinder has that. From memory it is a Dorman (I think the box was green). The fluid in the rear cylinders I found may be because this cylinder does not have one. Might have to try a pressure gauge to see what pressure they have to the rear. I suppose a 2Lb aftermarket valve would be correct?

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Stangs. I have found one part of the issue - my 6-month old wheel cylinders have rust through them. The old fluid must have had water in it. cars barely been driven whilst I sort this brake stuff out.

    I've ordered new ones and will flush the system completely to clean it.

    In Aus, the correct fix it to use smaller cylinders, to take pressure out of the system. I am using 13/16" or 20.64mm wheel cylinders. I think ideally 5/8" ones would fix it, or 3/4" at a pinch. Anyone know of a car that has cylinders in this size? To sleeve them is pretty dear here - about US$150 a pair. Otherwise that valve might do. That will make the 3rd set-up for the car :(

    Dumb question #2; how do you get the prop valve piston centred? I made up my own bolt but wondering how you ensure the valve is centred. Bit hard to see down there as well.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys.

    My confusion is with the distribution block; I have bought one the same as the one in the top picture, but without the valve and piping. It takes the fluid from the 2 outlets on the master and splits it 2 ways to the front and one to the rears. It has the brake light switch in the body, so I assume this is also a proportioning valve.

    Barnett, the calipers are same diameter as the OEM Mustang ones and the fronts have never been an issue. With the booster, the feel is as good as you can expect so I don't think that's the issue. My problem is only in the rear. Maybe I need to try a doctors forum???

    I didn't mention, the rear brakes are 10" x 1.75". I went to the smallest cylinders I could find (7/8"). Next step down is 5/8" but that's a $200 investment. I think I have the standard 13/16"? - 29/32"? in there now so could try the 7/8" again. I'll check today. Barnett the rears lock from dead cold and I've not got them hot.

    Another test I did was to put on a local master cylinder (1" bore, inbuilt proportioning valve) with an adjustable valve on but that did very little to change the rear. (I have tried a lot of things to fix this).

    Doug, is the prop valve you mention the same as pictured? I have the one without the valve and piping.

    I have read that you need to lock the shuttle piston centred when bleeding the brakes. The Ford manual does not mention that so do I need to lock the shuttle piston off when bleeding?

    Today I will back off the brakes so no drag, check the cylinder sizing, pressure bleed the brakes and try it out. Watch this space.

    Drake Prop valve.jpg

    1968-1969-disc-brake-proportion-valve-and-distribution-block.jpg

  15. Posted · Report reply

    This is driving me a bit nuts. I'll try to give you all the issues so you can advise. I have got the brakes working pretty well, but is still locking 1 rear then the other, under harder braking. Fronts lock fine when banged on but the rears will grab on light applications. The right side locks first then left. This is an improvement over both locking at once.

    To give you an idea of when they lock, you're driving down the road at 30mph and some goose stops in front of you, meaning you have to hit the brakes not hard-god-damn-I'm-dead but enough to pull up quick. This is when I have rear brakes lock. 90% of the time it's fine but do you want to be in front of me when I use that last 10%?

    I have a 70 which I think was a drum brake, non boosted car. When I bought it, it had been converted to front discs with a booster.

    What I have done and found so far:

    69 pedal and booster have been fitted. I have checked measurements and definitely a 69. Unsure if the pedal box is a 70; will this cause issues? Assuming not, then the pedal and booster match as I replaced them. The booster was new from a US ebay site, it does look the same as what came off. It is a dual diaphragm one and is the 69 with the drop down eye on the booster to pedal rod.

    Repro disc master cylinder fitted. The booster and master have been setup by a local brake shop with correct push rod depth. Braking seems normal. Pedal may be a tad soft but.

    The front calipers and rotors are probably from an Aussie Falcon. Very similar to the OEM calipers.

    Front brakes are not the issue; I can modulate their performance fine.

    Distribution block and piping replaced with a later, although similar, distribution block

    Standard 302 with about 80 horsepower  :(  C4 auto robbing a further 20 horses

    Bled multiple times via the up/down pedal method.

    Pedal feels OK, firm, not too much movement before brakes engage

    New brake cables

    New rear std wheel cylinders

    New rear shoes, radius ground to match the drums

    New fitting kit for the rear shoes

    Rear brakes adjusted by locking drums then pulling back so there is a little drag. I can spin the wheel but there is drag there.

    So, am I missing a residual valve somewhere? My workshop manual does not show anything like that But I don't know why a virtually stock brake car has these issues.

    When I got the car the brakes were total junk and locked up at will. All the changes I have made have improved it but I am now chasing this last issue. I am a perfectionist if you were wondering...

    So, my questions are:

    1. Do I need to get the bolt to stop the distribution valve moving when bleeding? I have not done this so far.

    1a. Will bleeding them with a pressure bleeder make a difference? I'll probably have to do this anyway as I am solo worker.

    2. Does it need a proportioning valve? I see Cobranda has the block and valve but only up to 69. What changed in 70 to remove it?

  19. Posted · Report reply

    And now I have working gauges.

     

    But, the oil pressure gauge is pretty slow to react; it slowly comes up to pressure and not really moves when revved from idle.

    I have 4.8V at the gauges so the regulator is working.

    Is the slowness of the gauge normal? I will be putting a pretty good engine in this and don't want to know after is blows itself to pieces the oil pressure was low or off.

    Am toying with a set of New Vintage Instruments for it, or are the Dakota ones better? A 6 dial dash would be neat but I don't know I want 5" speedo and tach

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I just replaced my circuit board with a Scott Drake one.

    My dash lights and the indicator lights now do not work (but the brake fail is lighting up when cranking - go figure) and none of the engine gauges are working; oil, temp and gas. I'm not sure if the dash lights worked before but the oil, temp and gas did.

    How can a dummy work out if the nuts/posts are in the right spot?

    Interior lights work on the light switch btw

  22. Posted · Report reply

    With the XB master you need a new internal push rod as it is shorter(?) than the Mustang one.

    I got Burt Brothers at Fairfield to set it all up, cost about 50 bucks with a new pushrod. I spent a lot of time chasing brake issues on mine so be prepared for hassles with rear lock ups and possibly having to put an adjustable valve on it.

    Real good work for an office worker I'm one too with a MIG but no way I am cutting up my thing.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I need an original one of these, off a factory disc car.

    Preferably a decent one that can be used again and definitely not a 'similar to the original' aftermarket.'

     

    My car has nothing so I need the bracket as well and anything else :)

     

    I am in Australia so would need to have a price to post it here and unfortunately I'd have to pay by pay pal but will cover their fee's.

    ncdruroSor, iapedVem, wapedVem and 2 others reacted to this
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