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smh00n

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Posts posted by smh00n


  1. There's no replacement for displacement.... and the torque of a big block will make the front of your shorts stick out.

    I had a 429/C6/9" in an Aussie Falcon years ago. Touched the towers, sucked gas but did it all with ease. With 2.75 rear it lit them up from a standing start in 2nd gear. But, unless you know what you are looking at most people won't realise it's not a Cleveland and so the cool factor is missing.

    For $6K I'd go with a 351 Windsor based motor, keep all the current hardware and swap it in on a Saturday.

     


  2. 1 hour ago, det0326 said:

    doesn't the hole in  69 booster pushrod that attaches to the petal have a downward offset and the 70 is straight. That maybe a good way to tell which u have

    That's correct, but if you use them as a matched pair then they work. You can't put a 69 pedal on a 70 booster (and vice versa).

    From what I have learned over the past day the pedal box is the same regardless of brake. Looks like I am missing 2 brackets to the firewall.


  3. 1 minute ago, Hux said:

    I have mine all apart at the moment.  If you need pics just let me know.  I am in Brisbane….I have converted from manual to power brakes with a genuine 70 booster.

     

    Damn yes! If you could send me where the triangular bracket bolts on the lower bolt holes that would be great. Mine has A/C so trying to see past the vent hoses is a bit of a nightmare.

    If it is also easy to send a shot of the pressed metal brace that goes form the dash to the firewall I'd appreciate it.

    Can send you my email if thats easier.


  4. Well, this thing is a total stuff up. They have put a 69 pedal and booster into it. I have had to replace the booster so went with what was in it.

    I've not pulled what I call the pedal box (P/N 01508) out but I need to when I convert it to stick. Hopefully it is a '70 and is a power brake assembly. If it's not, then that will explain all the hassles I've had with trying to get the brakes on this thing sorted.

    I'm pretty sure that P/N 015A18 is missing, as I think that bolts to the aluminium spacers on the steering column top mount (?). If so, then that is missing too.

    Any one have a complete power disc, stick trans pedal assembly for a 70 they have for sale? 


  5. Gentlemens

    My 70 has been badly converted from manual drum to power disc front brakes.

    Recently I saw that a brace between the dash and pedal support is used on factory discs; P/N 01524 from the MPC

    image.png.7e3391ae216c82f92f55cf6ed6c11c0b.png

    My questions are

    a) Do I need to fit this brace

    b) if yes, does anyone have one? A search of the interwebs doesn't bring up the part number.


  6. On 3/15/2022 at 3:27 AM, aslanefe said:

    Looks like a Holden ute (pick up for folks in the US).

    That's a trusty BA Falcon RTV ute. Pull anything in comfort. They either had the Barra 6 cylinder or the apology that was the 5.4 3V V8.

    You'll get 500 easy out of a turbo Barra. They are even being sent to the US. Australia's response to the LS everything movement :)

     


  7. Thanks. I am converting the lights to LED and was going to use 10.0v as a reference for the load, but today I checked all the wires for voltage and somehow the voltage has now jumped to 12.5 on both light circuits. Dunno how I changed it, definitely some elec-trickery going on. At least now I can go forward with my lights and power box and not have to start again. 

    I'm building the lights myself and not use a commercial unit.


  8. Another question - what sort of voltage should I see at both stop and tail lights, at the rear lights?

    I checked yesterday and I'm seeing about 10.5v on the stop and closer to 11.0v on the tail. It does change a bit with engine revs which I didn't think would happen (?).  I suspect the stop light circuit is not correct as there is some replacement wiring, and it may be higher resistance than OEM but knowing the 'correct' voltage will make it easier for me.


  9. I have a Sniper on my car and very happy with it. From first start it just ran well and I have never had an issue. I used the base kit.

    My set up is the Sniper with a MSD 6AL, 8479 distributor and a Holley EFI tank. I use the sniper to manage timing and electric fans. I have a Edelbrock torker manifold (the original, not a Torker II) on a tired old 302 ( I have a 347 just waiting to out together whenever I get time)

    Couple of points I'd change;

    The Holley tank is a pain as all the fittings come through the top. Basically you need a false floor to protect the lines which I am still thinking about how to do. I'd probably look at the fuel sender module with pump if I did this again. The pump is a little bit loud but that can be a wank factor as the people watching realise its not a standard car.

    The fuel sender caused me all sorts of grief. While the Ohms might be correct, you actually need to change the float level to have the gauge read right. I think I pulled it out 6 times trying to make it read right. I'm about 1/8" off I reckon to having it 'perfect'

    The wiring I followed to the letter, good earths, strong positives and no cross over of wires. Only hassle I had was the MSD and Holley guides had different instructions for wiring the distributor into the 6AL box (Holley instructions are correct, btw).

    Hot or cold, I have decent starts. I have a MSD hi torque starter and like 0 gauge wires all through the start circuit. I control the idle, I control when the fans come on and off, I can set the AFR, all sitting in the driver seat. You can change the fuel map but that's well over my pay grade or care factor.

    I know there are lots of horror stories out there for Sniper and Fitech, but when you read all the issues it comes down to power and earth (for Holley, I don't look at FiTech but they seem to be the same). Like I said, from the first start this thing just booted up, settled into a nice idle and has never let me down. Disclaimer; I've only done around 500 miles on it over the past year so it's not getting worn out any time soon.

    I went with Holley as they have been out there for over 100 years and were the original supplier to Ford, so they must do something right.

     


  10. On 7/25/2021 at 11:19 AM, Midlife said:

    That problem is due to a very bad design issue by Ford (which was corrected in following years).  There are no true grounds for the side marker lamps, instead the lamps light up when there's a difference in voltage between the turn signal and the running lights.  This means that the turn signal lines or the running light lines act as a ground and that there is voltage/current bleed-through from one to the other.  This makes trouble-shooting near impossible.  Bad Boy, Ford, Bad Boy! 

    The Fraud Motor Company outdid themselves on this one alright. I stripped back the harness on the driver side yesterday - soooo many black wires! 

    I think I have identified the wiring I need; it turns out the PO had already run a new brake light wire and has hacked up the OEM harness, so I believe I can just cut one wire and put it to the new indicator bulb. 

    Watch this space.


  11. Pgold that's similar to what I was thinking. I'll have to get time to look at the whole set up and see how I can change it. I'm thinking maybe change the side lights to just marker lights.

    The whole 70 alternating indicator and side light thing has stumped me, and now may explain why the repro front indicators I used seemed to not work properly. The indicator bulb was on at park and the side light bulb flashed (basically, reverse of what should have happened) so now I need to spend some time thinking this through. One of the joys of buying another mans project :(


  12. I have a Sniper but with MSD Pro-billet. Wiring that one component caused me more hassle than the entire carb/tank/wiring process.

    Holley really need a better instruction writer, as I found their instructions wrong too. Sniper instructions said wire this way, MSD said wire that way. Can't remember the answer now but I'm sure the MSD instructions were right and Holley wrong.

    You'll like the Sniper, just works when wired right. Cold starts are like a new car, no hesitation at all. Heck, all starts are like a new car :)


  13. Thanks. So, do the stop light wires go through the turn signal switch? Would it be easier to run a new wire to the stop lamps?

    I was thinking that I could put in a divider inside the bucket/housing for the outer lens of the lamp, and use the outer third lens as the indicator light (I can use a red indicator lens) and use the inner two for stop lamps, again with a new holder to brighten them up. Would that be less effort? 

    I'm a bit sick of idiots nearly rear-ending me due to being on their phones and dim stop lights not really indicating when I am stopping.


  14. High first gear every day. Unless you're running a 2.75 gear you'd be lucky to get to 6 mph before you started bouncing off the limiter with the lower first. And then the thing will fall off the cam into 2nd.

    I went with the 0.81 5th in my TKO600 as I don't see me doing a road trip in it. And if I do, I'll make sure my credit card is empty so I can gas it up each little town.


  15. I have the Holley/Tanks Inc tank.

    I bought this before Holley released the stock tank pump/sender unit and if I were to do it again I'd go that way. But, my car had a virtually new tank fitted before I bought it and I didn't actually need a tank. For looks without a false floor I'd go the sender entry option.

    The Tanks gas tank has the hoses and fittings at tank skin level, so you do need to protect them somehow. I think a false floor on top of the tank is the answer as it is close to the frame rail height. See the pic (you also cannot use -8 fittings from the tank, it only takes -6. That's a -8 in the hole and you can't turn it ). You have to cut 2 holes to fit the supply and return hose.

    The pump is noisy regardless of fuel level but mainly noticeable at idle. 

    I have not had any experience of the baffle as I don't corner this hard. The baffle itself is like an upside down cup that the pump sits in. As it has holes in the corners and the tank itself is reasonably flat I can't see it holding gas like a reserve pot would do. It would be good at a 1/4 and above but once you get real low in gas I don't see it doing anything outstanding.

    I had to run a vent tube from the tank as it just stunk the inside out. I also used a fuel-compatible gasket goo on all the cork gaskets.

    The sender - man, the sender. It is NOT plug and play and you need to spend some time getting it right. Somewhere on the interweb someone has posted the actual Ohm value for the gas sender, and it is like 50 Ohms at empty, not zero. I placed the sender on the bench, ruled lines for the tank top and bottom and used a multi meter to check readings. But it took a lot of time playing around.  I have it just about right for Empty - about a poofteenth of an inch above E it runs out (I ran it to empty testing it) so it's close. But, full reads full too early but I'd prefer to know when I run out of gas so focussed on the Empty setting. Tanks Inc told me the only way to fix it is a new sender for 100 bucks but when you read the way the sender works I didn't trust that.

    The tank itself was great, fit really well, no issues fitting it and the bits went together easy.

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    IMG_0744.JPG

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