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smh00n

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Posts posted by smh00n

  1. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    The kits for 69s appear to be discontinued. They had lots of hoses, one T and one thru-plug- take a look at the pictures here: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17434/31522/vacuum-line-hose-kit-air-conditioner-repro-1969-1973-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1973-ford-mustang.html

    There is lots of conflicting information about the hose size, but it may be 5/32" internal diameter.

    That’s really helpful. It has the routing and the colours which are easy to read. 
    NPD have this set https://www.npdlink.com/product/air-conditioning-vacuum-hose-set/103380 but not listed for our years. 

    Mach1 Driver reacted to this

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Dragging this back up; this is a factory a/c car but I am not replacing/fixing the a/c as we live in a cool climate.

    do I need to replace all the vacuum hoses under the dash to just have heat from the cooling system? Or are all the hoses I see for the a/c side of things? We’ve just moved house so all my books are in a box somewhere.

    I've ordered the heater core from summit and need the heater box seals and everything else to warm me up. 
    It looks like all the heater stuff is there, just old and tired. The cables seem to work although very stiff (I assume cables operate the blend door and vents?)

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have the same tank but stock rotating gas cap. 
    I’ve plumbed a 3/8” pipe from the vent outlet on the pump to the back of the car. Never had an issue like you describe. To me it is pressurising gas and air in the system which then needs to vent.

    The TPV6 valve is a pressure relief valve, not a vent valve according to Newton equipment. Their TRL valves are vent valves. I’m not across them but if you need a tank vent that closes in a roll over I don’t think the TPV valve is the product.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Lots to report this time round viewers, so grab a beer (not Bud Lite) and settle down.

    Mission tailpipe complete. 2.5" from the mufflers back. Whilst it has reduced the noise inside the car, there is still a drone at around 2,000 - 2,500 which is right at suburban drive speeds but it is improved. I can now hear the radio at a sensible level not thumping like before. The man also tweaked the LH pipe from the header to the X pipe as I had managed to sit that too high and it was hitting the frame. But the worst part part my expensive new FPA headers had a pinhole at the merge collector. 

    Then we decided to move states. So, the car needs to go 800 miles away and not bust, overheat, or be bad. I had a few chores I knew that needed to be done, so these started getting ticked off;

    Replacing the front springs. Our go-to company down here is King Springs and I had a set of front springs in it from our local small caer, a Ford Cortina. Whilst the spring rate is the same as the V8 Mustang, they were an inch shorter. So sexy to look at with the tyre just touching the guard but it was too low. I kept scraping the pipes on roll overs, and one time it was so bad it tweaked the already-tweaked LH pipe even more. So, I bought a pair of springs and inch higher and chucked them in. Plenty of clearance but for me it sits too high. This is on the to-do list with a later chore at the rear. A by-proudct of this was the wjheel alignment was out - badly - so that was on the plans too.

    The brakes had never been great - I could never get the emergency brake (we call it a 'handbrake') to hold the car, and it also held still on hills, and I suspected I had goofed with the booster/master cylinder clearance. I bought one of them 20 buck H shaped tools off ebay and oulled the master. I needed to turn the adjustment screw about 8 times, so it was well out. Now, the handbrake holds it, it don't have an auto-hill-holder and the brakes aren't hot from a 10 minute drive.

    The tengine emperature on this had been gradually creeping up. It did run pretty well at 82° with the expected spikes at stops, but it started sitting at 86-87° and higher. I initially put it down to the crazy timing and hotter weather. The fix, I thought, was in buying some big-ass CFM fans, so I splashed out on some SPAL 12" puller fans rated at 1,480CFM, better than the ~1,100 CFM I had on there.  

    I also thought to make up an actual shroud, as they were just fitted using some alloy angle to hold them top and bottom, then bolted to the rear sides of the core. Simple but effective. I bought a sheet of 4mm alloy and cut out 12" holes in it, mounted the fans to it and then bolted the whole thing back ont he radiator. Bit of black paint and it looked pro. Cost of $75 bucks all done.

    One quite warm day I set off for an hour drive in peak hour traffic to get a wheel alignment. On the way it got pretty hot - about 90° - and I had fans cutting out. Not great but I got it there.

    The wheel alignment resulted in a few things;

    1. The $240 quote went to $440 without explanation. They did spend 4 hours on it, they have made it drive 1,000% better but sticker shock hit hard.

    2. Borgeson conversions in Mustangs are crap. Earlier in the piece I discussed my issues with bump steer after the conversion and these guys confirmed it. The pitman arm sits too high when the box is installed, which I suspected as the drag link was not level. They had done a few Chev conversions, a Mopar facebook post rated them highly but for our cars the recipe ain't right. They did say they had seen elongated the bolt holes in the frame to fix them but not a great fix.

    So, I decided that I ought to rebuild the original steering box and ram, as I had a specialist in the next suburb and when we move the costs wil increase with freight. no surprise on this car, the steering box was NFG. What I think is the ball nut had broken and the guy told me I was lucky it didn't jam stuck. Eeek I drove the POS for 4 years like that. Luckily he mahaed to find another, so now I have a rebuilt box and ram to go back in at some stage.

    It was on the short drive to pick up the steering stuff that the temperature went bad. Near on boiled, the fans were constantly running and the circuit got so hot it tripped a 70 amp circuit breaker I had installed and near melted the 2 30 amp relays in the circuit. So, I removed the full-width shroud thinking possibly air flow was being restricted. No change. Another 70 hucks for relays and 50 amp auto circuit breakers, for just in case they were tripping too.

    Put back the 2 alloy angles holding the fans - I had to buy more material, 40 bucks thanks - but no change. Still hot, wouldn't cool down. This was strange as the SPAL fans pulled 250+ CFM more than the old ones and they did keep it somewhat under control.

    So, next was remove the cheesecloth filter sock that was in the top hose. It was slightly clogged but not blocked. No change.

    Last - the thermostat. Some of you may have already gone there in your mind but I was being methodical. And it was a new high flow unit installed with the new lump 12 months ago. Reefed it out, dropped it into a pot of boiling water. Nothing. Nix. Nada. No movement at the station there. Freakin POS cost me over 200 bucks in parts, time, stress and hassle.

    15 bucks and a day later I had a new standard 82° thermostat installed. Took it for a spin just now, temp runs steady, fans pull it down from 84° to 82° in about 3 minutes.

    The Sniper stumble issue was getting to me so I took matters into my own hands and increased the cold fuel compensation up 50% to around 160° (F) and this has improved it an amount but it may need some more. I'm not comfortable playing with that kinda tuning stuff which is why I put up with it for so long.

    Last, I have massive axle tramp issues. So bad, the diff pinion is making a notch in the trans tunnel. Maier 4.5 leaf springs aren't available form shops here, so I've bought a pair of Scott Drake 4.5 leaf mid eyes on the recommendation of my favourite Mustang shop they will fix the problem. They'll go into the container to be shipped to the new joint and I'll put them in later. Depends on who you ask they either raise or lower the car. Duh, I hate the interwebs sometimes.

    I have lots of photos but I'm getting an error message so can't load them.

    bigmal reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Anyone have a half decent steering box they don't need? Mine has just been diagnosed and NFG and they are not exactly common down here.

    I can get it shipped to a US address so low hassle for you.

    'Half decent' is one that is not broke internally and can be rebuilt.

    I have no idea what they sell for so a price guide would be great.

    Just found these ; https://www.holley.com/products/suspension_and_chassis/steering_components/steering_gear_box/parts/C8ZZ-3548-P

    Are they any good?

  15. Posted · Report reply

    If this is still an issue, I think the fans are under powered. I have had issue with my cooling of late - I had the radiator serviced and then filled it with red coolant, based on alloy heads, a bit of marketing and environmental claims.

    It ran 10 degree's hotter regardless of running, with a 24' radiator and dual 12" electric fans

    I did some research and the CFM recommend for this motor (347W) was about 3,000 CFM. The 2 original fans were only 1,100 CFM each so missing some airflow. I just bought 2 x SPAL 12" fans (SPAL Thermo Puller Fan - 12" - 12V - 1430 CFM - VA34-AP70/LL-36A) that pull 1,430 CFM each which hopefully will fix the issue.

    I'm also going back to good ol' Green coolant as it ran pretty much at 82° in suburban running.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I have 420 crank hp 347W through a TKO600 with the .82 5th gear and a 3.50 8” fitted with a truetrac and 28 spline axles.

    Diff builder said no need for 9” and so far so good. Wheel hop is biggest issue. 
    I was sceptical about the truetrac but it locks both wheels solid when being silly, gives me drive through 180 degree corners that drop off up hill, and acts like an open diff when driving like grandma. 
    I’m not sure of exact rpm on the highway as I do little running like that but the times I have it’s been ok for revs and not screaming. 
     

    If I were you I’d stick with the 8” and keep the extra cash. 

    Len69Coupe reacted to this

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Radiator failure.

    So, I find out why the man was selling his factory 24" radiator for cheap.

    It had a cracked lower tank. For along while I've had a leak from the bottom of the radiator and wasn't sure if was the el-cheapo plastic drain cock or the lower hose fititng slightly deformed. The LH torque rod stay always had coolant on it and despite changing hose clamps, tightening them to all get out and cursing it steadily got worse, to the point it hit 90° one day in traffic which it doesn't do normally so I pulled it and sent it off. I could not see where the leak was coming from as that torque bracket was right were the lower hose fitted.

    The radiator place tells me the bottom tank was cracked. So, buyer beware there's Mustang Brothers out there who don't care and will jack you up as needed as I thought it was a bit too cheap when I bought it. Further confirming my thinking of buy once, buy right, I am now near $1,000 in to this radiator and it has an old core in it. For another 400 bucks or so I would have a brand new core and rebuilt radiator.

    First run 2 days ago, no leaks, temps only rise sitting in traffic and the fan/s pull it down quickly. It actually takes a long time to come up to 82° and will drop down to about 78-80 driving in winter and we are just coming onto summer here so I'll be interested in seeing how it copes.

    Still have some chores to fix;

    Rear brakes are dragging so I need to pull the drums and see if I've goofed and maybe reversed the shoes front to back. And the handbrake is just taking up space, it don't hold the car at all.

    Clutch cable did stick real bad on a long drive a while back but then cleared but I noticed the other day it was tight again. Not sure what the deal is there. It's got 3 serious layers of heat insulation so is very determined to piss me off.

    The power steering pump may have a leak as it whines bad when it gets hot. The plan is to loose the current AN fitting which is a screw on one with an olive seal to a welded steel fitting to eliminate all possible leaks. All because the Borgeson mounts are junk and I had to Hot Rod the thing.

    The steering is not centred so I need to check the side to side number of turns as I've buggered it up on the initial instal.

    The exhaust drone has beaten me so I am going  to get tailpipes made up as it has diff dumps which are awesome in sound but rattle the heck out of the 50+ year old trim and the slack screws that hold said trim on. 

    The worst bit is the Sniper - although tuned and hauls ass it has a real stumble off idle which is annoying so I need to get the tuner to tweak it which hopefully is just more fuel or something. This thing is crazy advanced, 18° at idle, 35°+ driving and I've even seen 40° on it. Not a rattle to be heard but so something is working.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I did the same for my Sniper handheld. Made up a steel bracket so I can hang my phone off there as well and hung it under the HVAC controls (No console in my poverty pack). Used an old phone mount and the stick on magnet on the handheld. Helps with getting it away from the sun glare during the day.

    There's some folks making a column mount for the Sniper, 

    AusTex70 reacted to this

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I used the Borgeson-supplied Saginaw pump.

    I had to modify the mount brackets, fit the correct width pully to it and change the outlet fitting to a 90°. So basically if I had known I would have got one from a wreck and used it, as that's probably what I will end up doing if this is Chinese rubbish that can't be rebuilt.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    I have not. 

    I am sure I have installed the steering arms/drag link not centred as it does feel 'funny'. After a few miles the bump steer has settled down, or I have got used to it. Perhaps the whole suspension has settled down but I've not had time to look.

    Either way I need to get back under there and have a look. Plus the P/S pump has now developed a whine when hot which is pi$$ing me off.

    Not completely happy with this setup and have kept all the old stuff if I get too sick of it.

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