unilec

There is a video on this thread that will help answer all your questions.

I tried to look up on google where the term buck tags came from and just got a lot of sites advertising for hunting licenses. :-(

Do you still have the pink resistor wire or full 12v, also attach a multimeter to the coil positive and see what the voltage is while cranking.

I see you have a shaker hood, just bare in mind that the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake is nearly an inch taller than the standard performer, so may or maybe not be a height issue.

The only way to get some degree of accuracy is to have separate adjustable cvr's for both fuel and temp, fill the tank half full and adjust to half way on the gauge. On a side note if you are running at 180 deg, I feel that you are running a bit cold, as regards to engine wear.

I would stay with body colour, the 2 pack clear is a lot more resistant to oil and brake fluid spills.

I would recommend painting the engine bay and the trunk area on the rotisserie, it's a pain to get into the tight spots, but a lot easier on a rotisserie.

The only way to help your issue is to lower the seat pans, unfortunately that involves welding.

Would the car dealers offer upgrades to these cars that would not appear on the Marti report, such as disc brakes, just interest to know if there is any documentation by dealers on these cars.

Don't stress about this too much, you are a long way from paint at this stage. Main thing is to repair any defects in the cars body panels and make sure panel fitment is correct and door fender and trunk lid gaps are the best you can get them, this in its self is a long and time consuming task, that you need to take your time with, so paint is the last thing you need to worry about. As you are looking for a high end paint job you should never consider painting a car in your garage or workshop, dust and variance in air temperatures are critical to getting a decent paint job. If you decide to paint it yourself as they say practice makes perfect and hiring time in a decent spray booth is a must.

I doubt the power steering has anything to do with bump steer.These car came out of the factory with bump steer, but not as bad as your are dealing with, have you had the alignment, caster, camber and toe in checked? The only way to check bump steer is to measure the position of the wheel center to say fender at rest and remove the drivers side spring and measure from there.

I have never used one of these but it may get you in the ballpark of where you need to be, if I did it again I may just make one. http://baer.com/Push-Rod-Length-guage-6801279.html

So is that how you bought the car, with the gold stripes, or have you restored your car? Love the 4 post by the way, something i need to invest in, lying on my back under the car is really getting old now, and so am I. :-(

Just a thought, as I have never heard of any adapters, maybe you could measure the inside of the female plugs and buy some brass rod and make your own.

Its a pity someone did not make a doco of the museum and the auction, would have been good to see.

Sad to see another Aussie icon go down, did any one on this site manage to get there for the auction? https://www.lostinthe50s.com.au/auction-preview

Is there any reason you want to stay with the external regulator, if not just get a one wire alternator 100amp (you never know what upgrades you want in the future) with the built in voltage regulator.

If you are doing voltage checks do not leave the ignition on for too long without the engine running, its the easiest way to burn out the coil.

If it cranks over i doubt its the ignition switch, first check for fuel and spark.

I always use velcro tape to do wiring looms, easy to remove and add new wires and does not create hot spots like cable ties, insulation tape just makes a sticky mess. Just a thought. https://turbox.com.au/product/10m-roll-velcro-cable-tie/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7tiRrI_54AIVhR2PCh2HfACsEAQYAiABEgIKCPD_BwE

Car is looking awesome and well done for bringing this car back from the dead. Is the header going to interfere with the steering shaft, looks like it could be close.

I would be worried with too much flexing with that Bronco bracket, let us know if you do fit one.

Measuring the required travel and making another switch mounting bracket (plate) with an offset may be another way to go, it looks like its just a piece of 1/8" plate.

You could go with Cherry bombs " Disturbing the peace since 1968" , the 11 inch, wow that would be loud. ;-) https://cherrybomb.com/project/turbo/

Great, thanks for that.