unilec
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Posts posted by unilec
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Apart from heat off the headers, I would also be worried about water or moisture getting into the electronic components. Can you find an aluminum or plastic box with a decent seal to mount it in?
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3 hours ago, Shep69 said:Its not the engine temp aslanefe . Its the condenser temp im worried about. High temps in the condenser means high pressure causing premature failure of the pump seals. I have just replaced a sanden style compressor with a genuine unit due to front seal going so just want to make sure I've got things covered. My condenser is a about 2.5 inches away from the radiator so there a gap between them . Just wanted to know if this distance is normal. Factory AC cars use the BB radiators so it sit further forward maybe.
Do you get a ice build on the pipes near the evaporator? It could be the system is overcharged, may be a good idea to have a set of gauges attached to check the high pressure side.
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Fibreglass does not adhere well to pot metal or any metal for that matter. You can make a cut along the top outer edge and use a block to clamp it where it lines up with the fender lower down and carefully heat it with a map gas torch, bend it out to where it lines up and fill in the cut with muggyweld. Just be very careful when heating pot metal if you decide this is an option.
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1 hour ago, JET 445 said:Bit hard to do, if possible you need to keep the upper mount above your shoulder so you don't compress your spine in an accident, and yes I know a lot of people mount them lower but it is not ideal.
This is one that does just that i have never seen before, would wonder at the legality of it though.
http://68vert.blogspot.com/2013/05/safety-first-shoulder-belts.html
Also maybe a thought to contact wesco.
https://www.wescoperformance.com/i-3207-retractable-install.html
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22 minutes ago, Shep69 said:Yeah Neil it came with both . I’ve checked it and it’s pretty clean with just a few bits stuck to the magnet. I’m pretty sure my instructions said use the coarse one first and then change to the fine filter .
Yes your right, got them around the wrong way. ;-)
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Mark I see you have a Tefba filter, mine came with a fine filter and a coarse one, did you change to the course filter, also it may be blocked as well restricting flow.
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Have you measured the inlet to the radiator and the outlet, should drop about 10-15 deg F
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Nice work. With all the fiberglass work you do, have you ever thought about buying a chopper gun?
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4 hours ago, smh00n said:Apparently $125 according to a wrecking yard in North West GA.
Is that right? Are cigar lighters for 70's so valuable?
What annoys me is they wouldn't give me a price on the phone, despite me saying if it's 5 bucks I'm there but if it's $50 I'm out. I drove from Athens out of my way.....
Contact WCC.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=D0Z cigar lighter
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And thats why I have an answering machine, most of the time they hang up before the voice message has finished. Must say it's getting a lot fewer now than before.
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Not sure if this is of any use to you, but it has a section on the C6 and mentions the 390, so maybe the linkage images will give you some idea of what to look for.
https://www.mustang.org.au/technicals/66/7 - automatic transmission.pdf
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It may be optical, but the cylinder #5 push rod looks bent.
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Mal, sounds like you have exhaust drone issues. You can fit "J" pipes to your exhaust to help eliminate this problem, unfortunately you need to know where to fit them and the correct length, but worth doing some research into.Do you have a "X" or "H" pipe joining both exhausts together?
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55 minutes ago, Hux said:Thanks RR.
Biggest problem is that no Australian stockists have the 1/4 panel skin which cover the lower section only fully quarters or the wheel arch section. Unfortunately the wheel arch section doesn’t go low enough so need to manufacture the last section of the arch.
Try these guys they may have what you are looking for.
55 minutes ago, Hux said: -
11 hours ago, mustangstofear said:I have to many new products I'm working on :)
Be good if you could make a lower replacement panel skin for the inner door panel.
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Is the radio bezel for a non ac car? If so do you still have it?
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If you look the sharp bends at the door and rear quarter of the old original quarter panel then look at the replacement panel bends there is no comparison and you will notice it when the door is in place and the rear extension is fitted, so like I said try to retain as much of the original panel as possible.
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I'm not an engine guy, but I thought you could get thicker inlet gasket up to 0.120".
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I would try to retain as much of the original panel as you can, also you need to fit the door on to retain the correct body line. Do you have a pic of the original panel?
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10 minutes ago, Raven R code said:Actually just remembered I need to do mine. Any thoughts or things to note in order to achieve a nice and clean install ( besides where the seam goes)? I have yellow 3M glue (part no. 08001)
I have just done my 65FB, so what I do is put a line of masking tape just outside the area that is the gasket line before the glue is applied, this prevents you getting glue marks on your paint outside the gasket line.
RPM and Raven R code reacted to this -
i think it was this one from stangs-R-me, maybe send him a message to see if he is still doing the mod.
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fvike, interesting rotisserie you have there, how do you get it in and out of your workshop?
Mike65's 69 Coupe build
in Project Progress Forum
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Yeah, you would think that, but any time electronics is exposed to moisture, either from washing the engine and bay or just driving in the wet, it quite easy for the ingress of water to affect the electronic components. Encasing these components in some type of housing is always a good idea.