unilec

Yeah, you would think that, but any time electronics is exposed to moisture, either from washing the engine and bay or just driving in the wet, it quite easy for the ingress of water to affect the electronic components. Encasing these components in some type of housing is always a good idea.

Apart from heat off the headers, I would also be worried about water or moisture getting into the electronic components. Can you find an aluminum or plastic box with a decent seal to mount it in?

Do you get a ice build on the pipes near the evaporator? It could be the system is overcharged, may be a good idea to have a set of gauges attached to check the high pressure side.

Fibreglass does not adhere well to pot metal or any metal for that matter. You can make a cut along the top outer edge and use a block to clamp it where it lines up with the fender lower down and carefully heat it with a map gas torch, bend it out to where it lines up and fill in the cut with muggyweld. Just be very careful when heating pot metal if you decide this is an option.

Just finished my tree decoration.

Awesome, cars going to be a weapon when you finish. If you have not already thought of it now would be a good time to weld in reinforcement plates on the shock towers, as well as the "dog bone" on the outside.

This is one that does just that i have never seen before, would wonder at the legality of it though. http://68vert.blogspot.com/2013/05/safety-first-shoulder-belts.html Also maybe a thought to contact wesco. https://www.wescoperformance.com/i-3207-retractable-install.html

Yes your right, got them around the wrong way. ;-)

Mark I see you have a Tefba filter, mine came with a fine filter and a coarse one, did you change to the course filter, also it may be blocked as well restricting flow.

Have you measured the inlet to the radiator and the outlet, should drop about 10-15 deg F

Nice work. With all the fiberglass work you do, have you ever thought about buying a chopper gun?

Contact WCC. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=D0Z cigar lighter

And thats why I have an answering machine, most of the time they hang up before the voice message has finished. Must say it's getting a lot fewer now than before.

Not sure if this is of any use to you, but it has a section on the C6 and mentions the 390, so maybe the linkage images will give you some idea of what to look for. https://www.mustang.org.au/technicals/66/7 - automatic transmission.pdf

It may be optical, but the cylinder #5 push rod looks bent.

Mal, sounds like you have exhaust drone issues. You can fit "J" pipes to your exhaust to help eliminate this problem, unfortunately you need to know where to fit them and the correct length, but worth doing some research into.Do you have a "X" or "H" pipe joining both exhausts together?

Try these guys they may have what you are looking for. http://mustangpanels.com.au/

Be good if you could make a lower replacement panel skin for the inner door panel.

Is the radio bezel for a non ac car? If so do you still have it?

If you look the sharp bends at the door and rear quarter of the old original quarter panel then look at the replacement panel bends there is no comparison and you will notice it when the door is in place and the rear extension is fitted, so like I said try to retain as much of the original panel as possible.

I'm not an engine guy, but I thought you could get thicker inlet gasket up to 0.120".

I would try to retain as much of the original panel as you can, also you need to fit the door on to retain the correct body line. Do you have a pic of the original panel?

I have just done my 65FB, so what I do is put a line of masking tape just outside the area that is the gasket line before the glue is applied, this prevents you getting glue marks on your paint outside the gasket line.

i think it was this one from stangs-R-me, maybe send him a message to see if he is still doing the mod.

fvike, interesting rotisserie you have there, how do you get it in and out of your workshop?