unilec

I also had trouble starting with fuel drain back after a couple of weeks, so I fitted a holley electric flow through fuel pump near the tank and a switch under the dash. Once the fuel line and carb bowl are full my car starts after a few cranks. It also a back up if your mechanical pump should fail.

I prefer to leave to carb on my car, but have fitted an inline holley electric fuel pump that I can operate with a switch on the dash, just to fill the fuel lines and fill the float bowls ,normally after the car has been sitting for a few weeks. Starts very well then.

https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/pid=28.html The original voltage regulators are a known culprit of poor or low gauge readings and gauge needle flickering. This attachment is an upgrade that you can do yourself or a friend with limited electronic experience can do for you. I have done this mod and several members have as well, so a small amount of outlay it worth doing. I did this mod a few years ago now and seem to work well, although my car is running, but still not on the road.

What I was reffering too, is to bolt an extention to the existing bolt hole and with another nut welded to an extention plate move the retractor backwards.

No too sure if this is what you are looking for, also easy to make yourself. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264118752062?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264118752062&targetid=309727335774&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070586&poi=&campaignid=1669056926&mkgroupid=67513082834&rlsatarget=pla-309727335774&abcId=1123846&merchantid=7364522&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzo7Ww-SV-AIV2QkrCh37ugBNEAQYBCABEgInOvD_BwE

If you have original glass, you can have the scratches polished out, or do it yourself.

Could they be for electric mirrors?

Your best bet is to use a heat temperature gauge to establish what the engine temperature is in comparison that to the car gauge, that will give you some idea if the gauge is remotely correct.Obviously there are cheaper guns available. https://www.totaltools.com.au/108289-milwaukee-infrared-temp-gun-226840

Probably something like this: http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60153

Wow, never seen rust that bad, even the bondo filler is rusting.

Check out this video may give you a better idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9q3Zqic86sU

Try clamping one side and then use a 90deg scriber to ease one side out far enough to place a small screw driver in between the clip and the housing. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/endeavour-tools-da1255-90-degree-engineers-scriber

Another useful tool to have is a Tram Gauge. Easy to make one and its good if you are doing a lot of body work to check the diagonals from front to back, before you start welding on frame rails or rockers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I_BCkkazCA

Another tip, wipe the gasket over with solvent, there is residue of the mold releasing agent that need to be remove to allow the glue to hold properly.

Did you adjust the gap between master and booster? https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap#:~:text=Master Power Brakes recommends that,pin to the master cylinder.

Grendi, what size is your fan spacer, if you have one?

You could try and contact Tony Branda, not sure what make these are. http://www.cobranda.com/19gtmchle.html

The thermostat is there to reduce water flow though your radiator to help get the engine up to temperature quicker, once fully open say about 180 F, it serves no further need. First thing to check would be your timing, but temps of 195 to 205 F are normal. More damage is done to an engine running at to low a temperature.

We have to think of the billions of people world wide that will be out of work because of this ever advancing technology.

The question I would ask is when is this going to end, when will we be satisfied and say this is enough.

Just bare in mind that the interior will mostly be covered with carpet and trim. Basically just clean the area of dirt, oil and paint that is flaky, sand any rust area's and apply a good primer. I hand painter the floor and other parts in my 65 fastback.

Great, thanks for that, mine must have disappeared on the ride over here. Also looking into the more modern space savers, just not sure if the stud pattern is the same.

Never realized that the 1969 mustang came out with a space saver spare wheel. Were they available on all 69's or just certain models. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1969-FORD-MUSTANG-BOSS-302-429-SHELBY-GT350-GT500-MACH-1-SPACE-SAVER-SPARE-TIRE-/362886072950