Ernestgaig

I bought this distributor thinking I would modify it to work with a Vic Jr intake and then thougth better of it.  I checked a few sites and they are running right at $265 new and the bronze gear is running right at $45.  The bronze gear is installed and the original iron gear will go with it in the box loose.  $200 shipped ground to the lower 48.
 
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Ford/Street/Strip/8584_-_Ford_V8_351W_Billet_Distributor.aspx
 

 

 

 

 

 
I cannot find the spring and bushing kit for it but they are around $15 and the part number is 8464.  It has the original springs (heavy silver) and advance stop bushing (Blue 21 degree) still installed.  Which ones you will need for your build can be figured out in the manual on MSD's website.
 
Darren

I just completed refurbishing the dash in my 69 Mach 1. I took painstaking effort to make sure every light every switch every accessory worked. Everything works pretty well but I came up short on two things.
 
 
1) When I put the key in the accessory position the Alt light comes on and the heater still works. Is that normal?
 
2) When I rotate the light switch to the left into the detent the interior lights do not come on. They come on just fine when the doors are opened. Any suggestions?
 
Thank you

I have recently been doing a little re-chroming of small parts, The local shop I am using is in San Diego and the actual work is being done South of the Border. I am very pleased with the quality, the prices and the time line. I know some of you guys are having a hard time with getting this work done for assorted reasons so if shipping is not a problem give this guy a shot. Picture of my valve covers 2 weeks and $170. Brian

Bonjour Y'all!
 
I've been reading you for a while. Got myself a profile a few months ago. And today, I decided it was time to step out of the closet. I did get a lot of really good info and ideas along your threads, and now I will post my own experience, as it might help someone else in turn.
 
To start, let me tell you that I am French, born and raised in Paris. I'm Air Force active duty and got a 3 years tour in the US (Hurlburt Field). So the family and I moved to NW Florida almost 2 years ago. We enjoy ourselves there.. People are crazy, but so friendly as well!!
 
I bought the car (9F02H222550) in 1995, with my very first pay checks as a young LT: $5,000... Found it in Switzerland. It's a DSO 44 (Twin Cities), so not a real export. Drove it like I stole it for almost 15 years. It was my daily driver. Almost 80,000 miles... Did a lot of stuff on it, to it keep safe and fast. But mostly kept it original. As all 69 GTs, I believe, it came with a 351W-2V and a 3:00 in the rear. It has the GT package, obviously and powered front disc brakes. Period. Manual transmission (Toploader 4), manual steering, and no AC. A real car for real men!!
 
Because I drove it in all kind of weathers (rain, ice, snow, etc.), I started to get concerned about some rust points showing here and there on the body.
And one morning, I received my orders for Florida. Told my wife car was coming. And it did. We brought it back here, to its homeland. You need to realize what an accomplishment it was for me to be able to drive my beloved Stang here. And to make sure it would be a memorable tour, I decided to restore it while we're here. A frame up type of restoration, sand blasting, rotisserie, the whole shebang! I started taking it apart a year ago. It should be painted within the end of this week. And goal is to drive it north to Charlotte NC for the 50th Anniversary. We'll see.
 
As I was stripping it down, I realized it is all matching. Engine and tranny. I will post some of my pics here, on this thread.
 
And I almost forgot: Merry Christmas!

G'day guys.
 
Working on the interior of my '70 mach 1. It has a fixed rear seat and am missing two parts
 
Trying to find part 310A62 pictured in the center. It is termed the package tray extension piece. I don't have either of these left or Right side and am trying to find a repro with no joy.
 
Anyone know if it is made by anyone?
 
Chris

Okay I'm running a 4R70w Trans that has the gear in the tail shafts housing and I was told the standard 69 cable for a C4 will fit on the transmission end, but I have an Autometer speedometer which has the screw in type of cable, not the 69 push on style....
Anyone know what cable I need?

Hi All, I'm tossing around the idea of painting my coupe black with silver striping and tail light panel. Same basic scheme as what's on it now, just silver where it's black and black where it's blue.



Thanks Shaun

So here is my rant.
 
I bought a part off eBay. It was $20. But eBay then charged me $14.95 shipping, plus $7.88 import fee.
Then the seller tells me that he shipped it, and it cost him $2.09 for shipping. I check PayPal and I see that the transaction has been split, $20 to the seller, and $22.83 to Pitney Bowes.
 
So, I ask myself....what the heck just happened here? And what do I do about it?

Ok, So I know this is 6+ months out. But I've booked hotels for a long weekend to do the first couple days of Hot Rod Magazine's Power Tour for 2015.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/events/power-tour/?dis=A43FC6FA-D753-44BA-B496-CB7AF5DE345E&
 
It's from June 6 - June 13. Starting in Madison WI (I guess they had issues with Wisconsin Dells last year) and ending in Baton Rouge. I'm just going from Madison - St. Louis then I'll head home.
 
Has anyone participated in this event before? Any Tips/Tricks?
 
Anyone else thinking they might go? It might be cool to get a group of Mustangs together for part of the drive.

I have a 351w with about 89K miles on it. I would like to pump it up to around 500HP. I thought I would go with a 408 Stroker. It probably will never see the track but I do want it to go fast from stop light to stop light and have a mean lope to turn heads when I pull into a car show/cruise-in. I’m thinking of concentrating on low end torque. I have a couple of questions and need your opinions guys. Could I use my original block for this? Also can I just get a stroker kit somewhere? Any recommendations on kits or how to progress from here? Thanks in advance.
 
Mike

Anyone remember Krylon 1613? It was the perfect paint for the engine compartments and related parts. It seems like it doesn't exist or is hard to find. Does anyone know if there is maybe a new number?

A few years back I took a military posting to the UK. At the time, I put my car in storage and I have a nightmare story about that which is not the topic of this post.
 
While I was there, I came to realize that I should have brought a top quality Mustang with me when I moved there. Now, a good friend is planning his posting to England and he asked my advice. I told him to bring a '69 Mustang. He looked at me with bewilderment of course, but is now looking into it. In fact, I am considering sending him with mine now that it is finished. Mine is appraised at $72k Cnd, but would likely sell significantly higher in England. What experience from our readers? Is this something I should pursue, or shy from?

Just seeing if anyone had any plans to go to the Good Guys Show in Raleigh April 17-19.  I plan to be there with the car. 
 
If anyone is planning to go, maybe we could meet up at some point over the weekend.
 
 

lol on the pin holes. I plan on repairing it from inside the car. I guess I'll be the guinea pig on this 1.

Looking for single groove water pump and Crank pulley for 69-73? 302-351 non power steering
Enginnering # C9OE-8509-E &D0OE-6312-A 

I bought my M code Mach back in 81, at that time I was only concerned about it being a Mach1 with the original drive train. The PO had the car repainted red, but it already had a few chips and I could see what I thought was Wimbledon peeking thru. I never gave it another thought as I knew one day I would repaint it myself.
 
The car was garaged from 82 to 90 when I freashened it it up, and found the build sheet under the carpet. Everything coencided with the build sheet/door tag, but I never checked the paint code.
 
Fast forward to 2015, I went out to get the date code to help answer a question someone asked, and for some reason I looked up the paint code. Well what I thought for all these years peeking thru was Wimbledon white turns out to be Pastel gray.
 
Through a search I've found out that only 1083 Mach's were painted this color. So my question is, does this add much if any value to the car? Does anyone here own one this color?
 
Thanks, Randy.

Thank you buening for that info. Thats a lot of bs.
 
I've been told on another site that if I have a 5.5 bs on one wheel and a 6" on another that the 1/2" difference would be very noticable and that the rear would dogtrack.
 
I do not have wheels to place side by side to see for myself, also I thought if the tire width is different than the other, it would cause dogtracking.
 
IMO I was going to get a wheel made with a 6" bs and buy 1/4 and 1/8th shimes and see how it fits. Now others are making me rethink this.
 
Obviously, the Bodyshop welded in the 1/4 panel, full wheel well tub and frame rail out farther then the other side and I can't make those corrections.
 
If the leafspring bolted in points are fixed, I don't know what else to do?
I'm just looking for avenues to take, to be able to use the 295/50/15 tire with a 15x10 magnum 500.
 
All I really need is 3/16s to pull in on the LH side.  Any ingenious ideals from you guys.
 
Keep the ideals coming, I gotta do this!

Don't know the tail #,it was a KC 135 refueling tanker at Pease Ntl. Guard base in Portsmouth NH

I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.


This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with. 

I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.

I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering...
 
 

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

The large hole next to the seat belt mount. Any iteas why it's there? I was thinking of patching it.

I am selling the Fold-down rear seat out of my 1969 Mach 1 for someone who is looking to add one to there own Mustang. It has like new chrome w/ very minor blemishes and like new carpeting. I am also selling the comfortweave rear seat (Great Condition) that matches it as well. The foam is in very great condition and the frame rail is excellent like new condition. I will also be selling the latches (w/bumpers) and the striker plate for the fold down rear seat that have been powedercoated black.
 
I am selling this full kit as a (KIT) and do not want to piece these items out so please do not ask me to part with certain pieces of the kit.
 
Thanks!!
 
Price: $1250.00 + Shipping
 
If Interested please email me at Tawalmer@hotmail.com
 
Joshua

'69 Mach1  351w.  I am looking for a low to mid rise dual quad manifold.  I have an Edelbrach Performer semi high (or semi low)
with a 4v on it now and, with the air cleaner, it barely fits under the hood.  The Edelbrach Performer dual quad durashine is nice but adds 2-4 inches to the height even with a shorter air cleaner.  I really don't want to cut a hole in the hood.
Does anyone know of another brand that will work for my car?

Hi guys, someone off FB sent me here so maybe I can get some info on my 69. I bought my wrecked 69 fastback a couple years ago and now I'm finally starting to get to it soon. So I have trying to get more research on it. 302 car with ac, power discs auto car with a posi 8 in rear end. But the DSO is 91 which is for export but the car has been in Cali it's whole life and never left overseas. It's not a Tcode car but for another country. I was going to get a marti report done anyways but not sure how detailed the deluxe report is for the export part