CedAbedaPep

My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers.  When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit.  As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought!
 
I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses.  Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73.  Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970.  No reproductions are available for 71-73.  I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years.  What actually happened was much different:
 

 
The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work.  The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%.  1968 accounts for about 10%.  I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years.  We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. 
 
Thanks for reading!

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.


 
 
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Scissors
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
 
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
 
 
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
Picture 1

To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
 
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
Picture 2

I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
 
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Picture 3

Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
 
Step 4: folding over the edge
Picture 4

In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
 
Step 5: cutting holes
Picture 5

In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)

next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
 
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

I have a 1969 Mach 1 with Deluxe interior.  I recently changed out the dash voltage regulator to solve my blinker, interior light issues.  It worked, but now my dash lights don't work.  I have my clock pulled out because it doesn't work either.  I had one good bulb and one burned bulb in the clock, so I don't know if I have a bad clock or if it's just not getting power or both.  What is the best method to test my clock?  I want to make sure to mention, I did check fuses first and they are all okay.  I also replaced the light switch and that did not solve the problem.  I am getting ready to pull by dash pad off and pull out the instrument cluster for better access to my wiring.  Where should I begin?  If my clock is bad does anyone have a good clock guy I could send my clock to for repair?
 
I finally have my dream car, I just have a few issues to correct.  Thank you for any help.  I appreciate the opportunity to learn from all you wizards!!!!

This is not my car but looked like a good angle to submit.
 
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/medium/P10100087.JPG
 
The new mustang ruby red metallic color is what I'm debating on for paint
http://s835.photobucket.com/user/kn7671/media/2014%20Mustang%20GT/6e74a9382ac88e2b22e4cdbfb31dedac.jpg.html
 
http://themustangsource.com/forums/attachments/f831/142802d1374973853-rick57-ruby-red-130727_0001.jpg
 
Considering these wheels
 
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/hr99charcoalbrakelo.jpg
 
Or these
http://hotrodsbyboyd.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/showroomhr99.jpg
 
 
With black interior and black top.
 
Let me know how I go about getting an image it's just hard to visualize what it will look like once it comes together
 
Thank you

Hi, I need an original Motorola 8 Track AM radio for my '69 Convertible, part No. C9ZA-19A242. If anyone has a working or non-working one please let me know.
 
Many thanks!
 
- RudyK

Saturday, Oct 8, Dallas. Gas Monkey Live

Color test on deck lid, does this look right for my 69 Mach

Would like to share this video with you guys. In my opinion this is one of the best mustang models of all models. 
[media] [/media]
That is why i love 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 so much!

I am looking for the clips that mount on the body of a Mach 1 which attach the lower pc of the rocker panel below the doors.  There are 16 total and am hoping someone knows of a source for them.  Please advise.
 

There will be a car show Sat Aug, 27th in my home town of Sardinia.  Last year there was over 100 cars and they expect that much or more this year.  I hope to have my heap there and and my sons 65 c10 and my 63 F100.  
 
They have 25 different awards to be given out.
 
My wife and I (more her) own a mom and pop restaurant in the middle of town.  We have our own award to give to which one we like the most.  I will prob have my son, who has the C10 pick. He's 9 so it's hard to tell what he will like the most.  
 
Registration is from 9 am to noon.  Awards at 4:00, 10 dollar entry fee.

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

Anybody going next weekend? June 24-25-26.

I'm in need of a dash pad and CJ Pony is having 30% off today, that's a $100 savings.
The sale is for an original Ford tooling from Dashes Direct.
 
Is that a good replacement vs. TMI's?????????
 
My car has no AC and was going to install an aftermarket unit. So, should I get the Dash Pad with the AC cut out or not?????
 
I just replaced my Deluxe door panels with a set from Mustang Market, I see that they don't make a Dash Pad.
Which MFG would best match the Mustang Market door panel or does it matter????
 
Happy 4th of July and THANKS too all who served!

Good thing my wife isn't a member on this blog.  But I think today had to be just about the perfect afternoon.  Shortly afternoon I hopped in the stang and just drove in the country and trough a couple small towns for about an hour and a half.  Then I pulled into the driveway and gave her a nice bath head to toe.  Did get into detailing, but there was nothing pressing to fix.  Nothing unexpected or unwanted happened during the drive and the car performed decently.  Not that I wouldn't have wanted the wife along but sometimes is nice to be alone on the drive.  I didn't even bother turning the radio on, just listened to the sound of the exhaust.
 
Anyone else get out and enjoy the afternoon?

Dear Gentleman,
Does anybody has the book "Mustang I.D. numbers"?
I looking for decoding the number of my mustang. So I mean the specification - painting code, axle, transmission. 
Also i have a doubt about production number. Suppose it can be wrong.
# 9F02Z284582 
 
The car sitting many years in Russia. Fully rewelded body underneath. The roof and glass openings in good shape.
Axle, motor and transmission from "Volga".
 
So, got some parts from junkyards: '95 8.8 rear axle and 5 lug front suspension, '91 body for parts, as all bottom shell, 460 BBF, C6,
 
Thanks! 

The Yelm, Washington VFW Car Show is September 3rd, 2016. We have added a club participation award this year. VFW proceeds go towards programs for the injured troops on JBLM. $15 entry fee also gets you breakfast and lunch! I'll be there with my 1969 Mach 1. Hope to see some other 69-70 Stangs there.

The hood is new and I think maybe the original hood springs are getting stiff causing the hood to bend when pressing down to close.  If I lean on each side after it is fully closed I can get it to set almost level.
 
I'd like to fix it using a piece of 2x4 on the front edge and pressing down on the center but not sure if I would fix it of mess it up.
 
Any suggestions?
 
 

Curious what people are using for a durable coating for their headers? I cant remember what I used the last time (in 1988) but I can tell you it did not last long at all. the coating peeled and burned off and before I knew it, it was rusty again. I've heard or a POR product and Eastwoods Calyx.
 
Thanks

Whole top end has been replaced. Tonight I hooked up battery and got her to burb on ether in attempt to see if ignition was working. She burbed pretty good and tried her best to fire. Only tried three times. Never backfired thru carb.
 
Ether smelled half burnt at best.
 
Just checking logic...
 
Pull plug to see if spark is weak or hot.
Guessing timing is just too retarded?
 
Missing anything?

Purchased a few years back for roof section for my big block car. Have sold some small pieces off it to forum members.Storing at buddies bodyshop but city is bugging him to clean up back of shop where I am storing.
 
It's a roller right now with no roof and passenger door pillar. Info I know without pulling marti report is 1969 - Mach 1 - Acapulco Blue , 351-4V with Automatic transmission, AIR,TINT,DISC BRAKES. Have title for car, if somebody wants to repair somehow.  Front underhood/towers in good shape for parts. Disc brake stuff still all there, have dash etc out stored although rough but metal good.
 
Located in South Florida, also have 1969 Grande parts car with 351, car runs complete together, although rusted. 

Our Logo is getting a little tiresome to look at it.  I would like to update it with member photos of their car's.  If you would like to see your car up top where the current 69stang.com banner is submit a few side shots here.  I don't know if we have any photoshop users still on the forums but I may need your help putting this banner together, so please reply here!

Curious what people are using for a durable coating for their headers? I cant remember what I used the last time (in 1988) but I can tell you it did not last long at all. the coating peeled and burned off and before I knew it, it was rusty again. I've heard or a POR product and Eastwoods Calyx.
 
Thanks

Guys, I have a 69 base coupe/302.  She's back form paint, and I have some new "302" badges that I want to put on - one on each side of the hood scoop.  They are the "bolt-on" kind (require drilling).  My scoop never had the badge originally, but I want to add the decor because I like how it looks.
 
Can anyone give me dimensions on where to place the badge?  Hoping someone has a pre-drilled scoop and can make measurements or someone has a reference to a drawing with original placement.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Jay
 
Gratuitous hood shots below:
 

 

 
 

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry