Ridge Runner

I clamped the upper door frame together ,aligning the notches ,and spot welded and mig welded them together . To be continued ...Again!

Stupid internet !! Remember when it used to work? Tail panel in place

Next ,i moved it under my car port ,it has a cement floor . It was placed on several jack stands and leveled ,i use 5 levels at the same time in different locations to make sure it stays level at all times . I made sure the door to rockers gap was straight as it was before panel removal.Next i spot welded in the inner fast back part of the rear door post . The trap door area was welded in next ,and then the tail panel . What is the matter with the internet today ??? looks like i get to shut down and restart AGAIN!!

I do have one driver side left .It is straight ,it is missing the tin nuts on the insert but the insert is also there and in good shape .And i just broke one pin ...stupid stupid stupid !I think it will still bolt the insert tight though .

The back end of the car was sand blasted and epoxy primed ,mainly where i would not be able to easily get to later .

Looks like i am missing a few pictures but i think i have enough. The sheet metal came in three very large boxes and a few smaller ones . I laid out the new fast back pieces for pics but i think i only did the one side so imagine this doubled ,at least for the inner structure pieces .I bought the un welded parts because the welded pieces have been sometimes welded together wrong .I don't see how they are welded wrong because they have alignment notches and if they are aligned they fit perfect . there will be pieces leftover that you probably not need ,but they come in the kit and they is the only way you can get the parts that you will actually need .save the left over parts because you may need then on another project ...or you could sell to someone needing them.

I will have to look ,i have two left of the same side but i dont know what side .I will get back to you .

All brand new Dynacorn sheetmetal .I will post pics tomorrow .

As i was saying before my computer dumped on me , the rear door jamb stays just the quarter skin is removed along with the inner quarter window structure . The back end is trimmed of all the coupe sheet metal and ready for sand blasting and epoxy primer . To be continued ...as i need to dig up more pics and resize them .

Time to trim off the unwanted sheet metal ,quarters,tail light panel as i used a new one,all the inner back seat area. The wheel tubs stay in place along with the rear door posts and the complete front wind shield framing as it is the same ,coupe,convertible and fast back on a 65-68 . If it were a 69 the windshield frame and front posts would have to be changed because a coupe and a fast back have different front windshields . Well my computer just hickuped ...i will have tp post this and start again

I started out with a very clean 68 6 cylinder coupe .You will need to strip the car out ,glass included .The first thing to do is align the doors to the quarters and the rockers the very best possible .I didn't even have to touch the doors on this coupe they fit so nice .The doors will stay in place until the conversion is complete . Time to start cutting .The roof is first .I decided to save the roof because it was so clean but what a pain in the butt .I had to drill a lot of spot welds where normally i would just cut the roof off . There is a plate inside the roof at the front pillar on a 67-68 that has to be saved no mater what it is where the new door opening will reattach .

Well ,i will go ahead and post this one in the projects and when the other one gets here i will add it to the post as i do it .

Well if the guy backs out on this conversion ,i have the pics ...most of the pics ,of this one .I will post it in the project forum . It takes 4-5 days to do a conversion from start to finish ...depending on what all has to be done such as floors or other non conversion panels . I haven't done a 69-70 yet but they should be even easier than the earlier years .

Body work is nearly nothing at all ,it is only the seams ..and any small dings i may accidentally make ,but i do not make dings :)

Project forum ..Will do .For now i will just leave this here

Ok

It is actually very simple ,you just remove the coupe pieces and replace with fast back pieces .I have pics of one of the other coups i have done if i can find them .

It isn't 100% yet but i just wanted to make sure it would be alright .Just waiting on the guy to fork over the $$ and parts .

There is a very good chance that i will have a 67 coupe to Fast back conversion here some time in the the next month ,is there any objection with me posting it here in the tech forum ? I know it is not a 69 but it is cool to see .It will be done completely with Dynacorn Sheet metal .

I compared a driver Dynacorn rocker with an original 65 rocker ,you can see the difference .With the 69 over laid the 65 sticks out about 5/8 -3/4 inch .the door point on both rockers is the same I measured my Cj rocker and from the door point to the end of the rocker is 60 1/4 .i measured the Dynacorn rocker and it is exactly the same. I measured side width on my CJ and it is 4 1/4 ,the Dynacorn is the same . The only difference in the two rockers is the extension is made on to the Dynacorn rocker .It can be cut to the proper length if the extension does not need to be removed ,the rocker will simply overlay the original extension

got it.

Most vendors do not list 65-66 and 67 -70 as being different .I called Scott Drake and they told me the difference . I added 5/8ths to the end of my rockers to make up the length difference .I have two new Dynacorn rockers for 67-70 and they are the correct length .

You have 65 -66 rockers ,yes 65-66 are longer .I found this out doing a 65 fast back and i bought 67-68 rockers and they were to short .

I bought a Ranger pick up ,mostly parted out .took it home ,i was going to build a prerunner .It still had a 4 banger in it and i pulled it and tore it down ...Wo hoo ,it turned out to be a turbo motor as the pistons were marked turbo .Re built the motor, bolted it in and spent a bunch of money on fiberglass and new parts .I decided it was time to register it .Standing at the counter at DMV the gall behind the counter disappears for a good 30 minutes and all of a sudden some one taps me on the shoulder ...Our friendly neighbor hood CHP with a big grin on his face .turns out the pick up was reported stolen .I was lucky ...i got a bill of sale so it took the heat off me ...after spending a good 3 hours at the CHP telling my story .they turned me loose and i went straight to the dumb heffer i bought the truck from .turns out she reported it stolen and turned it in for the insurance ,after she sold it to me !!! I explained what could happen to her for insurance fraud and making a false police report and she said ,(Wait a minute ...I have the pink slip it is your .I explained she will have to call the CHP and drop the stolen report also .After thinking for about 1 second LOL she called them and the truck was mine . ALWAYS GET AT LEAST A BILL OF SALE .Saved my butt !

I have a 70 driver side bucket .It is in fairly good shape .I sanded it down partially to make sure there was no bondo because the pass side had bondo along the top. looks to be dent free but does have a couple of small stress cracks that i dont think would cause any problems . $60 + shipping PM if interested . Jim Here is a couple of pics of the stress cracks ,the first one is in the valance tab just about the middle of the tab The other is under the top point where the molding covers .