Ridge Runner

They say the third time is the charm ...well ,all the charm has just about worn off ! I can not find a glue that will keep the vinyl to the metal panel .The first attempt the glue turned to snot first time i set it in the sun ..The second time the glue just would not hold. One more attempt and if that doesnt work i will have to use a spray texture .I am going to try 3Ms super adhesive this time but i would bet it will not hold either . The second attempt ,i actually sprayed the gel coat and it looked like it would work but the glue just let go .The gel coat doesn't react with the vinyl ,in fact the grain from the gel coat i peeled off the vinyl ...after it let go ,was perfect .I glued the crap out of it this time and i am going to let it set for a few days before i try it again

Do you have a an old head to bolt the flange to when you start your welding ?

I have burns on all my fingers from trying to rub out air bubbles ,but they came out smooth . I took a heat gun to them on a low setting and they really flattened out .There was quite a bit of heat still and they didn't lift so i may try to make the molds tomorrow .

The headliners came in today ,good thing i ordered two because i screwed up the first one just like i was afraid i would do . I added a short lip at the top of the panels so it would slip under the window gasket a bit more ,about 3/8th of an inch .they just barley went under before. I primered the panels so i could block them out before the vinyl was applied . The first panel went with out a problem ,the vinyl laid out perfect and smooth ,the second panel ...i tried to glue the whole panel and attach the vinyl and that was a big mistake ,it got lumps under the vinyl .This is where the second head liner came in handy LOL. I used some wind lace to hold the vinyl at the small lip because it kept lifting ,i will let the glue set for a couple of days and then attempt to make the molds just to make sure the glue is good and dry and the vinyl will not lift ..Here is the newly covered metal panels .

originally They are a flat mat black it is almost a glass beaded look .

I may make two sets of molds ,one with the lights and on set with out

Fiber glass will not need the metal ring, 65-67 Fast backs have the light in the rear fiberglass panel with out the need of a metal ring so it should be the same for a fiberglass sail panel .

The front of the headliner is wider than all the bow areas and it is just wide enough to work ,i bought 67 headliners and they are a bit wider to the first bow .

I already cut the hole in the metal panel for the light but i will see if i can fill it in

Ok ,i ordered a couple of headliners today just incase i screw up one . Soon as they get here i will glue the material to the metal panels and i will be ready to make the molds .

I was thinking about the light last night ,when i wrap the vinyl over the metal piece and tuck the material inside the hole it will make it quite a bit smaller so it should be good .The hole will need to be opened slightly for the light to fit ,depending on the size of the new lights .

This is the Harbor Freight English wheel like the one i have .It really works great on 18 or 22 gauge sheet metal and aluminum is even easier .You can't beat it for the price and it has like 7 different crowns and you can easily make custom crowns for it .I have used it to remove dents from rear valances and other small sheet metal panels .

The card board ones need it to keep it tight ,i don't think the fiberglass ones will but if they do need it i will make a clip on the back

The second panel is done ,took about half the time the first one did ...i Knew what i was doing this time HAHA. I ran into a small snag though ,my upholstery shop doesn't have the correct material to cover them with and the mustang catalogs doesn't show the material either. I may have to buy a headliner to cut up for the material .I really want the correct grain on these panels . It turns out the right side and the left side of the car its self is slightly different ,one panel is about 1/4 inch shorter than the other side .It is hidden under the hockey sticks so it is not a problem .

Believe it or not it is a Harbor Freight wheel and it works great

The panel will slip up under the back window gasket and screw at the front as the original with the small cover at the wind wing .It should be easier than the factory one because it will be stiff and not try to fold on you .

Still hard to show the contour in a pic but this may be a little better

For some reason the contour of the panel doesnt show up in the pics but it is there

It wouldn't let me post the last pic so here it is .every thing is just setting in place

I started on the fiberglass sail panels today for the 69-70 Sport roof .I went into the welding shop with the idea of getting 16 gauge aluminum ,that is what i asked for any way .The kid behind the counter said they had some aluminum and went out back ...for about 1 hour . He comes in dragging 18 gauge galvanized sheet metal and says here you go. HAHA, i tell him that i said aluminum ,no you told me galvanized he says ...what ever ,i wasn't going to wait another hour for some real aluminum. Any who i went ahead and made the driver panel out of the galvanized ,sure wasn't as easy to work with as aluminum would have been . I traced an original sail panel on to my GALVANIZED sheet metal and cut it out About an hour later with help from my English wheel and i had it formed to the correct contour of the upper quarter . I cut the hole for the sail panel light and check it for fit ,nice and tight .this hole will already be in the new fiberglass panels and will not have to be cut out . All i need for this panel is the texture .I am going to try to glue the correct grain material to the metal panel and try to make the new mold ,if the gel coat doesn't react to the material .If it does i will have to use a spray texture .i found a texture that is a camera finish that looks pretty good ,but i would rather have the factory type finish if i can . i test fit all the fiberglass panels along with the metal panel and it fits very well ,especially since it is just setting in place with no screws .Pics are a bit dark because i fit the pieces in my CJ while it is on the rotisserie .This is the driver side ,i still have to make the pass side .

If you do need to cut them use a chop saw and do not over heat them

I would try them first ,and remember they will settle a bit with use .

Earl Scheib ...HAHAHA ,i haven't heard that name in a while HAHAHA. I have repainted a few of his $99.95 paint jobs though .

Here in Cali. we don't get snow days, soooo...we just ditched ! Looking good .

Blair is about the best one i have used .I bought the smaller kit ,i think i goes from 1/4 inch up to 3/4 inch .I use them all the time for cutting spot welds ,or just cutting a very clean hole .