Ridge Runner
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Posts posted by Ridge Runner
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The flange at the lower portion of the fire wall ,the toe board ,is missing because the torque boxes pass through between the toe board and the rocker ,the upper flange is needed because that is what attaches to the outer cowl panel .
The toe board sets on top of the torque box
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It is supposed to bend up ,for some reason the make them with the bend the wrong way . I usually hammer it flat and then put it in my sheet metal bender and bend it up . It can be hammer and dolly up
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
I found it in white and brown and black and grey but that is all ,i was thinking about trying Rust oleum its self to see what colors they have
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Ok ,i sanded out any imperfections ,scuffed it well with a green scotch brite ,tack ragged it and sprayed 3 coats ,go light and allow each coat to set up in between . These are wet but you can now see the grain ,i held the can about 12 inches from the panels
jim1320 and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
These things are so small and fragile ,i already dropped one twice!
Sprayed the texture ,it looks like it is best to spray a light coat and then a couple of heavier coats after the first dries ,it is really glossy until it dries then is about an egg shell finish. Some how i will have to glue them to a wood block to make a mold because they are so small .
These will set a few days so the paint can cure well ,my materials are on back order so it should work out perfect .
Mach1 Driver and TexasEd reacted to this -
I made this pair of rear fold down panels for my 69 ,they are a bit dusty ,i made the molds from a perfect set of original panels ,i have black gel coat on order so i can make the panels in black ,or white for different color interiors ,white can be painted to match any interior color .
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I will have to sand these down and retexture ,they were painted a couple of times ,i would like to make a press mold so they will be smooth on the back but have texture on the front like the originals did
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I tried to order fiberglass materials today,everything is back ordered . ISO resin ,black tooling gel coat ,catalyst ,and the price increase is down right rediculous!
I guess it will give me time to re texture some rear seat panels and those nonfold down trim pieces . Going to allow the texture paint to cure a week or so just to make sure it os dried well before i make the molds .
I made the molds for the rear fold down trim panels a few years ago and they are perfect ,i have only made a couple of sets but they turned out perfect .
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Already went to the county ,they say there is nothing they can do .
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I have a couple of the big panels that are in great shape but have a couple of sanded smooth spots ,i am going to retexture them and make new molds ,hopefully this spring.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Looks like the farther back you hold the can the heavier the texture ,this is about a foot and a half ,kind of hard to get a good pic .
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So i got a little bored today and decided to go to home depot ,just walking around and wind up in the paint department when i see this ,Rustoleum hammered paint in black . I thought what the hell and bought a couple of cans . I have a set of the fold down fiberglass panels and thought i would try it out and see if it was close . I scuffed the panels with green skotch brite and sprayed a coat ,let that set up a hit it with one more coat ,i would say it is damn near a perfect match for the factory texture ,i only sprayed half the panel so i could compare . Now i didnt prep it very well so i will have to clean it off and do a correct paint job but now i can retexture some panels i have here and make some new molds ,i even have the two smaller top strip fiberglass pieces i have been wanting to make molds for ,the pieces at the top corners of the back seat for the non fold down. I want to make a two sided press mold of these so they will be smooth on the back and textured on the front as original .
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have one but its trimmed
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Damn!
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I believe the cars from back east are grey or dark grey ,the floors from california are red oxide but can vary because they mixed left over paint into the primer . I have seen an almost pink with metalic primer .
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Going to get worse ,supposed to be heavy rain from this Friday until next friday ,i moved a couple of the cars up by the house and covered them ,one i can put on the lift and raise about 4 feet ,the other is on a rotisserie so its good ,have to pull out my welders and take them up to the paint booth ,its full of card board for hood boxes .it shouldnt hurt my molds but they will be out of use for a while
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I dont think there will be any damage ,its a metal building except for the doors ,problem is i will have to remove everything from the shop to clean out the mud . Here is a pic from the other side of the property at my mobil home my sister is living in ,the road to the mobil home is half washed out ,its a county road so some year they will have to repair it . Supposed to have 4 more days of heavy rain so the rest of the road will probably go . I wish my neighbor wasnt such an ass ! They build that property up close to 4 feet .
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The jack ass next door built his property up about 4 feet higher than our property ,we knew what was going to happen ,but the drainage commissioner said he can do nothing about it ! Well ,it rained hard for the last 3 days ,all the run off from the surrounding groves poured into our pasture with no where to go ! Flooded most of the pasture and made it in my shop ,there is about an inch or more mud in the floor! I will have to get the tractor fired up soon as the rain lets up to dig out the front of my shop ,i had to dig out the end door with a shovel this morning just to see inside the shop .
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Frosted flakes boxes are supposed to be the best ,i hear ,THE'RE GREAT !
RPM and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
38 minutes ago, Midlife said:If you use cardboard to make templates, you can then call this CAD: cardboard Aided Design!
I've heard used pizza boxes are best to use...
Captain crunch box works for me !
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You would probably need to make that patch in a few pieces ,the best way is to make paper templates of the rotted area and transfer to sheet metal ,once you get one part of the patch in place the rest will fall into place
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Its not a lot of fun installing by your self but you can do it ,the trick from going in from under side is lifting the back end up enough to get the front over the floor supports ,you may have to bow up the rear corners to get it high enough . You dont have as much room in the back end of the 65 68s as you have in the 69 70s
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Yep ,the amount of alignment ,welding and grinding is way less with a full floor . I usually set the pan in place ,mark the floor support and every where it will need to be drilled for plug welds ,then pull it back out and drill the plug weld holes and set it back in place . I have done several from 65 -70 and always do the install by my self
Polishing stainless
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Wear leather gloves ,when it hooks up in the buff wheel it will slice you like a razor blade . Sanding scratches can be sanded out with starting with 400 grit wet sand and work your way down to at least 1500. Heavier scratches may need 180 grit and work your way down on grit . I have removed some pretty heavy dings ,East wood has a small hammer for this that works great ,i wrap masking tape over the end of the hammer and use a block of oak as a back stop . Get the dings as close to straight as possible and you can work it out of the stainless with 180 progressing finer as you go ,always use the paper wet