mqu02

Max Power: I had the exact same problem as you with the motor (351W) being low in my '69, but my car had been hit at an early point in its life, which may or may not have caused the problem. I ended up making 4 spacers in a lathe that were (approximately) 3/8" tall, then installed them between the engine mount & block with respectively longer bolts. I looked things over for about an hour before I determined I had to solve the problem with a motor height adjustment, and I also know the difference between the different factory engine mounts (I had the right ones). With the projected angle of the engine it moved the fan up the distance I needed and kept me from having a fan interference issue with the factory shroud. I am also using the factory 24" wide heavy duty cooling package 351W radiator, and I substituted a Ford C9WE-C clutched fan, which was the factory fan for a '69 351W Cougar w/ac. I have never had close to a problem with heat on this car, and it has AC as well. I picked that fan because it had good cooling capability, and having a clutch, robbed a lot less horsepower vs. a fixed blade fan. Here is the same fan I have, but you can find them a lot cheaper with a little searching/patience: http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-C9WE-C-1969-Mercury-Cougar-7-Blade-cooling-351-fan-w-A-C-/322644573929?hash=item4b1f1d7ee9:g:JbMAAOSwFM1Zc-N4&vxp=mtr

Looking great, and I love the Gulfstream Aqua color. Also, I completely agree with you on the incandescent bulbs. I think if a person switched every bulb to an LED it would be less noticeable, but I think the warm-look of the incandescent bulbs are more fitting for these cars.

I can't see the Ford number on the intake, but it looks to be an EGR-style, so it probably isn't worth much to most vintage Mustang people. The C6 crossmember is probably worth around $75-100, as they are kind of desirable (at least to anyone that wants to put a C6 in a '69-70).

I would have been livid at seeing that. Any shop that knows anything about Mustangs should know how irreplaceable a 65-66 door tag is to proving the originality of the car. I really feel for you, and I sure hope they do better work on the rest of your car (or I would be looking for another shop ASAP).

No worries on that one. They do their best to beat up our inbound stuff at work, so I have learned my lesson.

Sorry, all I have is beer. If you are ever in Nebraska though be sure to hit me up.

Thanks a lot, and kinda new, but I have learned so much through these forums as I have been working on my cars. I am now trying to give back as a way of repaying all those that have helped me.

That is exactly what I would do in that situation. Use a heavy duty tape like "Gorilla Tape" and you should be OK.

Theoretically you are never supposed to remove the dash VIN, because that is the legal means to identify the car. If you are not worried about that, when the dash pad and windshield is out, drill out the rivets and re-install where applicable.

Carefully drill out the center of the original rivets, then either Marti, NPD, or other good Mustang parts companies sell a reproduction factory-style rivet to re-install it on your new door. Is this what you are asking?

As another FYI, I am pretty sure if you get a new FMX-style switch, it includes an additional plug for later year cars. If you run across that, you may want to verify the schematic just to make sure it is good-to-go. The FMX switch below plugs in the exact way the C6-style switch would: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zz-7a247-c-used.html?attribs=88

There really shouldn't be any reason why you couldn't use a FMX-style switch (the one in the shifter itself) in this application, and they both plug in the same at the firewall area. It would be a whole lot easier to do that then to try to get a C6 style switch to work with your existing setup. Also, I have an extra of the correct kickdown lever if you need one.

A 600cfm carb is on the extreme high side of what a decent 302 will normally use unless it is absolutely screaming, and a 500cfm carb should be more than sufficient (actually ideally suited). Are you sure your 500cfm unit doesn't have a tuning problem? Also, I am not very familiar with the 1406, but you should be able to jet it down and keep it.

Just out of curiosity only, does anyone know where the "Dark Teak" was used? I was always under the impression that the '69 body style started with the Light Teak interior, then they converted to the Walnut mid-year in '69 with all '70's being Walnut. As a reference, I have 3) '69's, and two are late '68 builds that originally had light teak, but the third is a June '69 build with all walnut interior. Also, if copb8 has a '70 that has an original light teak interior, that makes what I was thinking inaccurate. Not a huge deal, but figured I would ask.

I would agree you have a '69 Pump, and yes, the pressure outlet on that style is a male connection with the female connector on the hose. I have also read a '70 style uses a female fitting on the pump, but I have not seen one myself.

I might be interested. Any idea what you might want for it?

Agree^^^ This is actually a pretty decent fan for a 351W or 351C w/ 24" radiator, and is somewhat hard to find. It offers the advantages of a clutch to save hp, while still giving good airflow capability when needed. Furthermore it looks completely stock on our cars, and only a concourse judge would probably even notice it wasn't correct. This is the same fan as I have on mine, and depending on what you want for it, I might be interested in it for a possible future project or something.

This might be the rare exception where a catalog mistake comes in handy.

On 8/3/15, I ordered NPD part number 240A10-3A and they were the same as what NPD has pictured as a -4A on their site & catalog. They fit perfect, and were the correct style that are used on '69's. Hopefully they just have the pictures backwards and everything else is correct.

I see your question now, and I think NPD has their pictures backwards. I will pull an invoice and see which one I ordered, then post the results.

Just as an FYI, I ordered the Scott Drake ones from NPD, and they fit my '69 just fine. They would be pretty easy to make though.

You are correct that the missing teeth are there to help with reassembly, and if you get one, you still may have to drop the front side of the counter gears (only pull the shaft out a little bit, and keep the inner spacer engaged) on a close ratio transmission.

My experience with aftermarket sending units is that they are very inaccurate. I have tried a few of them and their resistance values are off from the factory ones. I have only tied them into the factory gauges though, and the last one I had read way too hot. I then found a used factory one in an old intake manifold, installed it, and it fixed the problem immediately.

I would highly recommend Barry, but plan for a couple months to get it back. He has done both a '66 and '69 8-track for me, did a wonderful job, and I have a 2nd '69 8-track at his place right now getting fixed. He takes his job very seriously, and is the only person I would trust fixing these units. As far as button interchangeability, unfortunately these buttons are kind of rare (I may have one if you really are in a bind - PM me). Here is a good reference for the radio's you need to get a button from, and I got it from the following link: The Motorola part number is 38-41329B01, which is used on the following AM/8-Track players: T8MM - 1968 Mercury T8MZ/T8MZW = 1968 Mustang/Cougar T9MZ - 1969 Mustang 1MZ4004 - 1970 Mustang 1CR4005 - 1970 Cougar http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/485579-radio-push-button-interchanges.html

From what I know the long one is for the dual exhaust, and the short one is for the single. Or, specifically, I have a '69 H-Code San Jose car with single exhaust that had a short wire, then both a Dearborn and Metuchen dual exhaust car (one M-Code, and one R-Code) with long wires. Both of those have a long wire that extends from the LH side of the tank, to the extreme RH side of the tank, then back across the bottom of the tank to the center.