mqu02

From my experience, it isn't a difference in overall length, it is a difference in height off the door panel. The speaker grills on a '69 are raised up off the door panel, and some of the door handles from the era are flatter when you look at them from the side. Those hit the speaker grills, and wear a radius across them (I removed this exact combination from the drivers side of my car when I got it). I just pulled up my order history, and I ordered NPD Part #23342-4B & 23352-3A. These cleared my factory speaker grills, and look & work perfect. I would have no problem recommending them over a used one somewhere, and they might even be cheaper too.

No problem, and I just fired you an email.

I have a couple heat only styles, and I think even an extra AC version too. I can send pictures if you are interested.

No problem at all, and glad it helped you out. Running low on oil is never good, so great to hear you are back in business.

If you are calculating it from the top of the shroud (where it seats against the tube when installed), then yes, you are correct with the 20 3/8" length.

I am looking at a C9OE-6750-B dipstick, and the length from the tip to the top of the shroud (installed height/length) is approx. 22 3/4". I do have an extra one if you need it. Also, the upper limit (full mark) of the dipstick is 2 7/16" from the tip.

I have a '69 pedal assembly out of a car, and have noticed this on other cars many times. I can see on the pedal assembly why it is happening, and am thinking about modifying it to keep the pedals inline (because I am kind of OCD). Would there be any downside to doing that assuming the clutch is adjusted correctly underneath?

I am pretty positive that isn't a correct Silver Jade, and I can see why you didn't like it (it looks like Grabber Green to me). When Silver Jade is done correctly it looks pretty good to most people. Coincidentally, I have both a Silver Jade & a Black Jade Mach 1. Here they are beside each other, and the picture makes the Black Jade car look a lot darker than it actually is.

Another vote here for Black Jade, and I would highly recommend BC/CC vs. SS. I have yet to to take a good picture of mine, but with a good coat of wax, it looks menacing and rich at the same time. It is kind of like a custom color, and you never see anything like it.

Thanks for the link, and I have seen quite a few pictures of how the tie downs in the rear of the car worked, but I have never seen a vintage picture of the tie downs connected in the front. I am just curious on this, and one of these days I am going to have to get under my cars to see if I can figure out where they were connected.

This might be a dumb question, but the hook Grabber70Mach posted looks like it would fit perfectly in the factory tie town brackets in the rear of the car (which were supposed to be removed at the dealer). I have never seen where the front of these cars were tied down. Does anyone know where it was, and if one of those brackets fits it?

The C6 fills up the tunnel pretty well, so I would make sure you get something close to factory cooling lines, because they hug the transmission really tight. This also includes the special 90-degree elbow that has a nut that helps you orient it correctly to the transmission while sealing. You will find that there is a lot less clearance for a C6 than a C4 or FMX in the tunnel. Also, your shift linkage will probably take some custom fabricating. The easy solution is to get a big block shift rod with the correct shift lever (which is available from Mansfield Mustang), but that will require that you drop the pan & valve body to install. If you don't want to do that, something similar to what Ridge Runner posted will be required, however you will probably need to determine the length by trial & error (if the length isn't right, you won't get into the gears correctly).

No problem at all on this, and I am really glad it helped you out. I am pretty sure this is this is the clip I used: https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=379816-S&parent=0&year=0

I considered it a "better" fix, because as your previous post stated, these are made from dirty pot metal, and most people don't have access to a welding god. I do know it has worked for me incredibly well.

I just went through this myself, and broken tabs are incredibly common with '69 & '70 Mustangs. There is a better fix available for this, and here is a link with some info: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1110922-69-70-headlight-bucket-tab-repair-sanco-specialties.html

As I was looking at the pictures I just posted, it became pretty obvious to me the steel collar on the speedometer cable should have had the clamp around it. i don't know if that never occurred to me putting it together, or if it slipped out at some point after assembly, however I just went out and adjusted, and it looks factory now.

I think I see the issue you are having, and it might have to do with the length of your speedometer cable. I am pretty positive mine is a factory Ford cable, because I am pretty sure I remember seeing Ford part numbers on it when I put this car together several years ago. The problem with pictures is that it is hard to grasp depth, and even though my speedometer cable is close to the H-Pipe, it is further away than it looks in the picture. Also, just as a preventative measure, I cut a small piece of rubber hose, and slipped it over the speedometer cable in the area closest to where the heat might affect the cable. I have several thousand miles on this car so far without issue, and the cable was being used on the car prior to me tearing it apart, so no clue how many total miles it has on it. This should be the same JBA H-Pipe as you have, and the same JBA shorty headers. I have the car jacked up right now, so let me know if you want to see any more angles and I will be glad to take some more pictures for you.

I just got the email thread update, and ended up at work until late last night. You can make this work with what you have, and I will do my best to get pictures for you either this evening or first thing tomorrow morning. Until then, if memory serves me correctly, my speedometer cable might be a little longer than yours, and I also think I used a short piece of rubber hose as a secondary heat barrier. The picture should show this pretty well, and sorry for not being able to get it to you sooner.

I have the same setup as you do, and will try to get you picture of this tomorrow.

If your float is taking in enough gas, your engine will probably be running richer, and you might not see it with the engine off (because the engine isn't pumping fuel anymore). The fuel height in the bowl helps determine how much fuel the engine gets. A higher level runs richer, and if it is way too high it can pour in through the vents (assuming the needle/seat is malfunctioning as a result). On Holley's, a blown or malfunctioning power valve can cause them to run rich, but I am not that familiar with a 4300 so I don't know how common that is with that model. Also, you shouldn't have to be rebuild carbs every 3-years, even with modern fuels. In fact, most fuels today leave less residue behind than fuels from days gone by. I have a 4100 on a 289 that has at least 15 years since its last rebuild, it isn't driven that often, and still is easily one of the best running carb'ed engines I have ever been around.

I am pretty positive the upper AC bracket you are having problems with is different between the 302 and 351, and I know the bracket for the Cleveland is different too. Saying all that, I really don't know what the differences are between the different brackets. Does your bracket look like this one: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9oz-2888-b.html?attribs=88 Edit: That link also says the bracket for a '70+ Windsor is different too, so it must be a "one year only" bracket.

Here is another one that might help, and I can take some more too - just let me know.

This is really hard to take a picture of when everything is installed in the car, but you are on the right track with the way you are putting it together. The picture I attached of mine shows the power steering bracket behind the AC bracket. Does this help at all?

Also, here is a video of them repairing one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hXJF6hmM8w

If it helps at all, West Coast Cougar specializes in restoring these tilt/tilt-away column's, and they might be worth a call if you can't figure this out: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/